Greenline 40: General Discussion

[ScottC]

Now that we have a new, dedicated area for Greenline/Solar/Hybrid discussion, I thought I would start this thread with an eye toward aggregating Greenline 40 discussions that do not fit into any of the other thread categories. Hopefully, this will make it easier for those that might be doing research in the future. Not sure if this type of "organization" will work or not, but will try and see what happens.

 

[rallison]

[Joins trawlerforum.com, finds Greenline 40 thread, plucks self down, looks around expectantly]

Hello, ScottC and crew. I'm a fan of low-impact boating and am considering, among other alternatives, the Greenline 40. I've researched, boarded, sea-trialed, and discussed this boat over the last two years or so.

As a person comfortable with the limitations of hybrid systems--I owned a Honda Insight (2nd gen, Prius style model) hybrid automobile for a number of years, and I get that they are different beasts than pure fossil fuel systems--the Greenline 40 Hybrid has emerged as one of my prime candidates.

So if there are other enthusiasts, or owners who wish to share their experiences, I hope they'll find this thread and choose to contribute. Thanks for hosting it!

 

[Solaris]

Hi Rallison,


Some thought that might be helpful:



We did shopping similar to you, and we looked for three years before we purchased. We went for the Greenline 39. My reasoning (will not be equal for everyone) were three fold. We liked the size and room of the 40. The 33 was a little small for our cruising needs. The 39 had half the engines, electric motors, lipo batteries. Less things to break, less maintenance. We felt the need for redundancy in diesel engines was negated somewhat by the electric motor. Still, one prop might be a problem if damaged far from home. Lastly, the layout, asymmetric cabin, and storage appealed to us. We feel less is sometimes more and the 39 fit our minimum requirements for comfortable cruising.


Our thoughts on Greenline 39 shortcomings: 1. Lack of ventilation in main cabin. It's a hot boat down here in FL! (We modified one sliding hatch to direct air down into boat and added three fans) 2. No cup holders or fishing rod holders. (we added a bunch) 3. More fresh water would be nice for extended cruising in the bahamas (we just added a 65 gal tank) 4. No provision for dingy (instead of davits we purchased a folding rib with torquedo electric drive which is stored folded in the aft lower cockpit storage. It keeps it out of the sun until we go on a cruise, then either towed or just left on the aft cockpit with transom down. No need to carry gasoline for dingy.) 5. No way to grill steaks/ seafood / chicken. (we got an electric smokeless grill, works great and no need to carry propane)



This hybrid system shines when cruising like we do: Sitting at anchor for 2-3 days and short distances between changes of anchorages. Last year we spent 6 weeks in the Exumas with zero use of diesel to charge, 4 gpm total fuel usage, one partial diesel fill, only one marina stop.



It works for us.


Solaris

[Joins trawlerforum.com, finds Greenline 40 thread, plucks self down, looks around expectantly]

Hello, ScottC and crew. I'm a fan of low-impact boating and am considering, among other alternatives, the Greenline 40. I've researched, boarded, sea-trialed, and discussed this boat over the last two years or so.

As a person comfortable with the limitations of hybrid systems--I owned a Honda Insight (2nd gen, Prius style model) hybrid automobile for a number of years, and I get that they are different beasts than pure fossil fuel systems--the Greenline 40 Hybrid has emerged as one of my prime candidates.

So if there are other enthusiasts, or owners who wish to share their experiences, I hope they'll find this thread and choose to contribute. Thanks for hosting it!

 

[rallison]

Hi Rallison,

[...] We liked the size and room of the 40. [...] the 39 fit our minimum requirements for comfortable cruising.

Our thoughts on Greenline 39 shortcomings: [...] 3. More fresh water would be nice for extended cruising in the bahamas (we just added a 65 gal tank) 4. No provision for dingy (instead of davits we purchased a folding rib with torquedo electric drive which is stored folded in the aft lower cockpit storage. It keeps it out of the sun until we go on a cruise, then either towed or just left on the aft cockpit with transom down. No need to carry gasoline for dingy.) 5. No way to grill steaks/ seafood / chicken. (we got an electric smokeless grill, works great and no need to carry propane)

This hybrid system shines when cruising like we do: Sitting at anchor for 2-3 days and short distances between changes of anchorages. Last year we spent 6 weeks in the Exumas with zero use of diesel to charge, 4 gpm total fuel usage, one partial diesel fill, only one marina stop.

[...]

Solaris

This is great to hear about. I've certainly looked at the 39, and cost/maintenance-wise agree it's a better deal, when all you're 'losing' compared to the 40 is some beam, the port side protected walkway, and some headroom in the guest stateroom. I share your concerns about tank sizes; if after year one of ownership I find it useful, I think I'd add a watermaker/water purifier to extend the independence. (Now if I can just manage not to fill the black water tank...) I heartily applaud your choice of dingy power and how you use/stow the RIB; glad to hear that's a functional, real-world choice, as it aligns with my thinking.

I'm particularly glad you included the note about how hybrid really works: Not so much to make your passage, but to let you putter around once you've arrived and to remain largely independent of marina infrastructure.

That's ideal for me, as I expect to spend 60+ days of the summer puttering on Georgian Bay, and a similar amount of time in the winter puttering about the Keys and/or Bahamas, for as many years as I have the health and strength to keep looping between them. After which I suppose mostly a live-aboard in a temperate area where short jaunts on electric power will still provide boating joys. Such stuff are dreams made of.

 

[rallison]

Just a heads-up for those interested in the 40...

There's a new walk-around vid from Boat Tube up on YT; search there for "2020 Greenline 40 Hybrid Boat - Walkaround Tour - 2020 Boot Dusseldorf". The usual caveat for these vids: The music they overlaid may not be to everyone's taste--there's no narration so you may want to turn the volume down. But it's a relatively high-quality video once-over.

I paused it at one point to see & record the manufacturer's current claims for speed and distance; their placard shows:

TYPE | TOP SPEED | CRUISE SPEED | RANGE @ CRUISE
Diesel | 22kts | 17kts | 240nm
Hybrid Electric | 6.9kts | 4kts | 20nm
Electric | 8kts | 7kts | 40nm

So (in the EU at least) they're selling an electric only version, too.

 

[jbinbi]

Seriously considering a Greenline. I thought 2 engines might be better, so interesting to hear about your experience with the 39. I do like having a port side walkway.

The lack of a a good dinghy solution is also something that bothers me. I do need a RIB with a 6 HP engine. That is a total wt of about 160 lbs.

Also, I really am thinking I want a fly bridge option, I will be S FL for the winter. The 45 is too large and too expensive. But following this thread.

Finally, what is the diff between the boat in Electric mode and Hy Elec mode? Why is top speed/cruise speed any diff? I could see range, as maybe you can put in more batteries as you don't have fuel tanks, but speed is odd?

 

[rallison]

I agree about the dingy; in particular, the 'tailgate' complicates things. If you're not living aboard and can spare the storage, the cockpit lazarettes will hold a deflated foldable RIB. And of course Greenline makes a lift/davit system if you don't mind the dinghy hanging off the back. Maybe mount a fold-flat dinghy along the port rail?

I'm not interested in a flybridge myself--as a guy who burns easily and has had skin cancer more than once, one of the reasons I like the 40 (& 39) is the amount of covered, enclosed, UV-protected space.

I wondered that myself. I haven't looked into all-electric version at all--not suited to my plans--but my guess is they take out the two engines and both fuel tanks and then add to/relocate the batteries. So maybe less overall weight, and/or the weight is redistributed to change how the hull rides in the water. Or perhaps they fitted a different propeller, optimized for electric drive. Or both. Great question.

 

[Solaris]

jbinbi,


Good questions.


We though long on the dingy issue. Here in FL they have a shorter life out in the sun. We got one of those foldable RIB's with the hard bottom. A torquedo outboard to propel it. No need to carry gasoline and the rib stays in the lazarette out of the sun until needed. While cruising we either pull the dingy on a tether or just pull it up into the cockpit with the transom down.


Two engines might give more security but the modern diesels are dependable plus the electric drive might act as a backup for a short distance. We figured the double ways to move the boat forward was good enough and enjoy the less maintenance with only one diesel.


Real world range with electric is less than advertised. (dirty bottom/extra weight while cruising / wind waves/ etc) We will do 5 - 7 nm electric max just to keep from running the lipo's way down. Diesel fuel economy is so good that traveling 6-8 kts on diesel is our preferred mode.


Just having the starboard walk way does give more room in the cabin. I did not measure the difference between the 39 and 40. Which one is larger?

 

[Boom23]

Hi all,

I am in the process of buying a used Greenline 40. They survey is next week. If all goes well, she'll be with me in a couple of weeks. I am pretty excited! I have owned and single-handed several larger power boats and sailboats.

I debated about the 39 and 40. In the end, I decided on the 40 because of the deep walk arounds on both sides, twin engines, and wider interior. The standard Pool anchor on the 40 troubles me as it cannot be upgraded, at least I have not found a way. I believe in oversized modern anchors. I like to sleep well at night. One of my first additions will be more anchor chain, and anchor alarm by adding Vesper XB-8000 AIS.

Where do you buy Greenline parts? I am interested in the optional cockpit storage seat. So far, the best alternative I've found is the Yeti Tundra 160 cooler, but it may be a little too tall. Does anyone have the cockpit side seat height?

Anyway, I thought I'll get this thread a little more active.

Stay safe!

 

[Solaris]

Boom,


Congratulations on your new boat!


When you next get on the boat would you measure the interior? I'm curious the difference with the 39.


We use an Engle electric cooler when we do an extensive trip to double the freezer space. The engle also doubles as a refrigerator by just dialing up the temp. It runs on either 110v or 12v. We use ours on 12v since it is a little more efficient on dc. (I added extra solar for the 12v system.)


I feel the same way about anchors. Removed the factory 30lb anchor, kept it as a spare and store it in the forward anchor locker. Our boat came with 150 ft of chain so I bought a Ronca Vulcan 20Kg (44lb) to go with it. Works great with only a small modification to the roller. Added one of those self aligning swivels that make retrieval a breeze. We have used the anchor setup in the Keys and Bahamas with great success.



Solaris

Hi all,

I am in the process of buying a used Greenline 40. They survey is next week. If all goes well, she'll be with me in a couple of weeks. I am pretty excited! I have owned and single-handed several larger power boats and sailboats.

I debated about the 39 and 40. In the end, I decided on the 40 because of the deep walk arounds on both sides, twin engines, and wider interior. The standard Pool anchor on the 40 troubles me as it cannot be upgraded, at least I have not found a way. I believe in oversized modern anchors. I like to sleep well at night. One of my first additions will be more anchor chain, and anchor alarm by adding Vesper XB-8000 AIS.

Where do you buy Greenline parts? I am interested in the optional cockpit storage seat. So far, the best alternative I've found is the Yeti Tundra 160 cooler, but it may be a little too tall. Does anyone have the cockpit side seat height?

Anyway, I thought I'll get this thread a little more active.

Stay safe!

 

[Boom23]

Thank you!

She's not mine yet, but I'm hoping the surveys will not find too many problems... This is the second Florida boat that I made an offer on, and the first one (2017 Jeanneau NC11) was really neglected & beat up but advertised "as new"! I am hoping this will not be the case with the GL40.

The 40 is 1'8" wider than the 39. Some of it is made up on the 39 with the narrower port walkway. The rest has to be on the inside. The guest stateroom was definitely narrower on the 39. I will try to remember to measure the salon width at the survey.

Boom,

Congratulations on your new boat!

When you next get on the boat would you measure the interior? I'm curious the difference with the 39.

We use an Engle electric cooler when we do an extensive trip to double the freezer space. The engle also doubles as a refrigerator by just dialing up the temp. It runs on either 110v or 12v. We use ours on 12v since it is a little more efficient on dc. (I added extra solar for the 12v system.)

I feel the same way about anchors. Removed the factory 30lb anchor, kept it as a spare and store it in the forward anchor locker. Our boat came with 150 ft of chain so I bought a Ronca Vulcan 20Kg (44lb) to go with it. Works great with only a small modification to the roller. Added one of those self aligning swivels that make retrieval a breeze. We have used the anchor setup in the Keys and Bahamas with great success.

Solaris

 

[ScottC]

[FONT=&quot]Hi Boom23,[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Congrats on your GL40 find. Hope the survey goes well![/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]A few tips on things you and your surveyor should take a close look at:[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]- I didn't see that you mentioned the year of the boat. If it's a hybrid, make sure to have a battery expert assess the two 48v hybrid batteries to make sure they are still in good health. Each one has 13 cells. Make sure the BMS is able to achieve a state where all cells are sufficiently equal. Have the expert do a Load test as well. These batteries are supposed to have a life-span of 10 years, if they are cared for properly. I managed to get almost 9 years out of mine before replacing it in 2019. While I cared for it carefully, I probably managed to shorten the lifespan a bit by keeping the battery fully charged and on float all season long - even when I wasn't using the boat. This means ~54.14-54.34 volts. It would have been better to leave the battery in the 45-48 volt range when not using the boat for extended periods. It's a convenience trade-off. For me, I live only about 500 meters from my home port harbor in Sweden and I always wanted it have if fully charged during the season so we could just walk down the street and get in and go, without much charging preparation. Is this convenience worth the shorter battery life to me? Maybe, but in the future, I will be looking for periods where I can be a little less "obsessive" with charging. If the batteries are old or load-test results are poor, then you should insist on a $20,000 deduct for each battery. This is not just a rough guess. This is about what I had to pay for my factory-replacement battery (with new bms) in 2019.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]- Also, if it's a hybrid and the model year is prior to 2015, send me a private message and I'll give you some detail on something else you want to check out on the electric motors. [/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]- Finally, have your surveyor check the hydraulic fluid level in the electric-diesel clutch boxes (Aluminum box, about the size of a shoe box, midships - on the bulkhead just under the engine floor hatches. One for each engine.). If the fluid level is low, it might mean that the fluid is leaking either around the master piston (inside these boxes...and visible) or the slave piston (inside the sealed transmission...and not visible). I doubt many surveyors would know to look for this, because I think it's quite GL-specific. If the fluid is low and the fluid is not being lost around the master piston in the aluminum box, then it's leaking from the slave piston inside the transmission. If things still seem to be working fine, Great. But the loss of fluid means you are not too far away from a need for repair (1-2 years?). You can buy a little time before repair by adding more fluid (careful to use the correct DOT number fluid!) and bleeding air out. The worst case is not an insurmountable disaster, but it involves pulling the transmission, rebuilding the slave cylinder and replacing the oily clutch plate. If the master cylinder fluid levels are found to be low during the survey, you would want to have a $5000 deduct for each engine. (This is about what it cost me here in Sweden when I had to go through this fix). I have some factory documents specifically for GL33 & GL40 (early years) that provide a lot of information and instruction about this. Send me a Private Message if you would like them.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Regarding the anchor…I agree. The standard anchor that came with my GL33 seemed woefully undersized. One of the first things I did was to order a bigger anchor from the factory. I wouldn’t have known about this un-documented option, had I not seen it on a picture of some GL’s in Germany and The Netherlands. I’ve included a picture below. It’s a lot bigger and heavier than the original. While it doesn’t fit quite as well as the original, it’s a 98% fit and is entirely good enough and still functions properly. The aspect of this that wasn’t a perfect fit for me was where the neck of the anchor comes up through the deck from the hawsepipe. It sticks up about 1cm longer than I would like. But still, it’s not really a problem. I suspect, since everything on the GL40 is bigger, this “problem” might not exist with an anchor upgrade (???). The factory referred to the new anchor on the invoice as a Sidro Pool Anchor 18 kg. It cost me about $500 in 2012.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]I've dealt with the factory quite a lot over the years. They have been very helpful and willing to explain things and sell and ship parts to me in Sweden. I’m not sure if this is because for early years, they didn’t have sufficient dealer representation in Sweden or if it’s because they sell parts direct as well as through their dealers. Not sure about how the distribution might be structured in the US, but if I were you, I would rather have a dealer handle shipping and import headaches. Regardless, if you want to reach out to the factory for information or for purchase, I would suggest you start with this address: aftersales@svpyachts.com I have found their “after-sales” department to be very helpful. SVP Yachts is the builder of Greenlines (in Slovenia).[/FONT]


CLICK ON PICTURES BELOW TO ENLARGE.



[FONT=&quot]Good luck with your survey and, hopefully, purchase![/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]ScottC[/FONT]

 

[Boom23]

Scott,

THANK YOU for the detailed information! You have a beautiful boat.

The 2018 Greenline 40, that I have an accepted offer with, is hybrid ready. So, it has the solar and additional AGM batteries, but not the Lithium/Hybrid setup. I like lithium batteries & the hybrid setup, though I cannot justify the high additional cost.

I have installed a Solar and Lithium battery setup on a previous sailboat, and I really liked it. Of course, it did not have the hybrid engine. I like not having to run the generator/engine to charge the batteries at anchor. The GL40 with the 1.4kw (or 1.8kw, depending on what document you read) solar is perfect for me.

I have to research the factory supplied POOL anchor. Some documents say a 2017 built, 2018 model, GL40 has a 16kg anchor, others say 20kg. Still, I want the biggest possible anchor that will fit. I wonder how good is the Pool anchor compared to Rocna or Ultra, which I have used before. Frankly, I would have preferred a bow pulpit with a regular anchor, so that I can upgrade easily.

Regardless, I want an anchor that will not let go when it is blowing hard. In addition, some of the nearby anchorages are pretty deep at 80ft. I usually have 300ft of chain, and an oversized anchor on my boat.

I always improve things that I buy... My goals are better safety and comfort while I keep things simple & stupid (KISS principle).

[FONT=&quot]Hi Boom23,[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Congrats on your GL40 find. Hope the survey goes well![/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Regarding the anchor…I agree. The standard anchor that came with my GL33 seemed woefully undersized. One of the first things I did was to order a bigger anchor from the factory. I wouldn’t have known about this un-documented option, had I not seen it on a picture of some GL’s in Germany and The Netherlands. I’ve included a picture below. It’s a lot bigger and heavier than the original. While it doesn’t fit quite as well as the original, it’s a 98% fit and is entirely good enough and still functions properly. The aspect of this that wasn’t a perfect fit for me was where the neck of the anchor comes up through the deck from the hawsepipe. It sticks up about 1cm longer than I would like. But still, it’s not really a problem. I suspect, since everything on the GL40 is bigger, this “problem” might not exist with an anchor upgrade (???). The factory referred to the new anchor on the invoice as a Sidro Pool Anchor 18 kg. It cost me about $500 in 2012.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]I've dealt with the factory quite a lot over the years. They have been very helpful and willing to explain things and sell and ship parts to me in Sweden. I’m not sure if this is because for early years, they didn’t have sufficient dealer representation in Sweden or if it’s because they sell parts direct as well as through their dealers. Not sure about how the distribution might be structured in the US, but if I were you, I would rather have a dealer handle shipping and import headaches. Regardless, if you want to reach out to the factory for information or for purchase, I would suggest you start with this address: aftersales@svpyachts.com I have found their “after-sales” department to be very helpful. SVP Yachts is the builder of Greenlines (in Slovenia).[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Good luck with your survey and, hopefully, purchase![/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]ScottC[/FONT]

 

[ScottC]

Scott,

THANK YOU for the detailed information! You have a beautiful boat.

The 2018 Greenline 40, that I have an accepted offer with, is hybrid ready. So, it has the solar and additional AGM batteries, but not the Lithium/Hybrid setup. I like lithium batteries & the hybrid setup, though I cannot justify the high additional cost.

I have installed a Solar and Lithium battery setup on a previous sailboat, and I really liked it. Of course, it did not have the hybrid engine. I like not having to run the generator/engine to charge the batteries at anchor. The GL40 with the 1.4kw (or 1.8kw, depending on what document you read) solar is perfect for me.

I have to research the factory supplied POOL anchor. Some documents say a 2017 built, 2018 model, GL40 has a 16kg anchor, others say 20kg. Still, I want the biggest possible anchor that will fit. I wonder how good is the Pool anchor compared to Rocna or Ultra, which I have used before. Frankly, I would have preferred a bow pulpit with a regular anchor, so that I can upgrade easily.

Regardless, I want an anchor that will not let go when it is blowing hard. In addition, some of the nearby anchorages are pretty deep at 80ft. I usually have 300ft of chain, and an oversized anchor on my boat.

I always improve things that I buy... My goals are better safety and comfort while I keep things simple & stupid (KISS principle).

Hi again,


Sorry to have bogged you down, then with all this hybrid stuff. Nevertheless, I hope what I wrote here will possibly be of use to others contemplating purchase of used hybrid GL40's or 33's.


I like the GL40 a lot. If I were ever to move up in size, I would take a very close look at it vs. the 39. For one, I like the style better than the newer GL's but, most importantly for me, I like the wide decks all-the-way-around. This, I suspect, is because we do a lot of canal travel...and the wide decks are nice to have when locking.


I agree. Hybrid is expensive - both to purchase and maintain. It's also a bit complex if you're used to just diesels. Despite these drawbacks, I like it well enough that I would buy hybrid again.



Regarding the anchor. My "new" Pool anchor, at 18kg is very heavy and seems like overkill for my GL33. I suspect if the factory is offering 18kg for the GL40, it really probably is quite strong enough. The GL's are on the light side for their size and they are fairly low. So, I think they have less "windage" impact than the typical powerboat with a fly bridge. I tried to research the Pool anchor before purchasing it, but I found precious little information on the net about it. I'm not sure where GL sources it - but I never asked. While we anchor out, it's probably only 20% of the time. We tend to prefer 5* marinas were we can step off to a nice restaurant on shore. So, I can't say we've given the Pool anchor a real workout in all conditions. It works great in mud, clay and sand. It doesn't work very well in weeds (I'm not sure any anchors do). Have not tried it with a rocky bottom yet...but I'm not optimistic it would be great for that. We try to avoid these types of anchorages.


It's unfortunate that some of your prime anchorages are 80' deep!! Normally, I would say enough rode would alleviate the need for an oversized anchor but in your case, I'm not so sure. There are many anchoring discussions here on TF. I have only been on the forum for a year, so clearly have not had time to read them all ;-) It seems that it's a bit like discussing religion. No simple, on-size-fits-all conclusion that everyone can agree on.


Long ago, I bought a significantly oversized Fortress anchor (it's like a Danforth in style...and even a bit similar to Pool). I bought this as a back-up/emergency anchor. It's very strong, yet very light weight and can collapse into a compact carrying case for storage. We have actually ended up using this quite a bit as a stern anchor when beaching the bow and tying to trees (common in Scandinavia). It's very easy to toss and retrieve this fortress anchor off the lowered transom/swim platform. I use 40 meters of nylon anchor line with the Fortress for stern anchoring. For the bow, we have 40 meters of 8mm galv. chain, which was standard. If I ever replace that someday, it will be with stainless.


As to the solar panels. Originally (i.e. from 2010) the hybrid GL33's had 6 x 215w panels for a total of 1.3kw. A couple of years ago, I too noticed that the literature stated the panels on the new GL's put out 1.8kw. I had a discussion with the factory on this and when I contracted them to come change out my battery, I had them replace my solar panels too. While the old ones still put out, the technology was old and performance was not quite what it was when new (but still not bad). I have long tried to figure out a way to put a second hybrid battery in to increase my range on electric. Never did it because it would be all-the-way-around too impractical, heavy and expensive. Upgrading my solar panels, however, has helped me increase my range...and the upgrade wasn't all that expensive, even with the factory field reps doing the work. The ceiling panels in the GL33 and GL40 are held up with SERIOUS industrial strength Velcro. If you work carefully from an area where you can get a grip, you can pull the panels down without any risk of damage. If you pull a panel down under where one of your solar panels is now, you will see a label on it where you can determine the model/wattage.

 

[Boom23]

Scott,

Great information again!

I really hope my GL40 is as advertised, so that I finalize the purchase. The GL40 deep full walkaround is very attractive to me too, in addition to the solar, and one level living area. I am just not sure about the factory supplied anchor. On the plus side, the GL40 is comparatively light and low profile. More chain can help a smaller anchor, but it is best to have a heavy anchor with an all chain rode. Most anchors have difficult time with weeds or rocks. For weeds, I have found that my (oversized) Ultra anchor digs if I backup slowly (just wind or current in the beginning), so that I give the anchor a chance to grab. If I backup faster, the Ultra slides on top of the weeds. Rocky bottoms are best avoided, unless it's a quick stop. When needed, I dive/snorkel to the anchor to make sure it is set.

The fortress anchors are great for backup/stern anchors. That is what I have been using. I have sailed the S. Pacific for 3 seasons, and the Med for 2, in addition to 30+ years of local sailing. I almost always anchor.

So, one can see the back side of the solar panels by removing a salon ceiling panel? I thought the salon roof would be fiberglass. This is easy to check during the survey.

Thanks again.

 

[ScottC]

Regarding the solar panels...
You are correct, the salon roof is (strong) fiberglass. For each solar panel, however, there is a square of about 3 inches cut out for a junction box and wire on the bottom of the panel to protrude into the underside of the salon roof. This is, in part, why the decorative fabric panels exist on the ceiling of the salon - to hide these junction boxes and wires. Really, there is almost nothing that can go wrong with these and for a survey, it wouldn't be necessary to inspect them. I just mentioned this so you know there's a relatively simple way to satisfy your curiosity about which panels you have. Even if it turns out you have the "legacy" panels, I wouldn't reject the boat based on this. They will still give you plenty of power.

 

[Boom23]

Got it. Thanks.

Regarding the solar panels...
You are correct, the salon roof is (strong) fiberglass. For each solar panel, however, there is a square of about 3 inches cut out for a junction box and wire on the bottom of the panel to protrude into the underside of the salon roof. This is, in part, why the decorative fabric panels exist on the ceiling of the salon - to hide these junction boxes and wires. Really, there is almost nothing that can go wrong with these and for a survey, it wouldn't be necessary to inspect them. I just mentioned this so you know there's a relatively simple way to satisfy your curiosity about which panels you have. Even if it turns out you have the "legacy" panels, I wouldn't reject the boat based on this. They will still give you plenty of power.

 

[Boom23]

Well, the Greenline 40 boat and engine surveys are done. Nothing major was wrong. The boat needs a lot of TLC due to the previous owner modifications and lack of attention. Also, it is amazing how hard Florida is on boats! Due to the findings, I managed to get an additional price reduction and we reached an agreement!

I hope to have her in a couple of weeks to start working. First, I'll focus on engine maintenance (I like to have a known maintenance starting point), and cleaning things, like the engine room. Then I'll work on safety items, like anchor rode, AIS, fish finder (I use it to see the bottom when anchoring). And finally, I'll remove the factory installed grey water tank, and some bad owner installations. The grey water tank is aft in the engine room, and does not allow access to the shaft seals or water heater, among other things. It will have to be cut into pieces to be removed. The grey water plumping will be rerouted overboard.

She's a lovely boat with lots of personality. She deserves better treatment. Wish me luck!

 

[ScottC]

Congrats on the successful purchase, Boom23! It's difficult to understand how a boat as new as 2018 can already be in such a state of neglect! It's also difficult to understand why the previous owner would make such an investment and then, apparently, neglect it. Alas, I am afraid this is the case with many boats.



What are the diesels in it? Volvo Penta??


It's a shame to have to remove the grey water tank, as you might find yourself needing a grey water tank someday (new cruising area; new regulations). But, if you can't reach the shaft seals and water heater any other way, then I too would remove the grey water tank! I would recommend routing all your grey water plumbing to a 16L Whale sump & pump setup. Be sure to use a vented loop on the outlet side of the tank (this, to prevent any risk of siphon in the event of list due to bad weather).


https://www.amazon.com/Whale-Waste-Tanks-Intelligent-Control/dp/B07BK2YXB5
https://www.whalepumps.com/marine/p...yID=Grey-Waste-Tanks-With-Intelligent-Control


My GL33 came with an 8 liter Whale sump from the factory and I changed it to a 16 Liter model so the pump would not run so frequently.


Let me know if you have any possibly Greenline-specific questions, as there are quite a number of similarities between the 33 & the 40...and I might be able to help.


Good luck with your projects!

 

[Boom23]

Thank you!

I am used to keeping my boats in like new condition. I take care of them, because I want them to take care of me. When I make an improvement/addition, it looks like it is made from the factory. So, I am very picky. The first Florida boat (2017 Jeanneau NC11) I made an offer on, was advertised as "like new." When I saw her, she was in worse shape than boats 10 years older. She had so many owner neglect related problems. The Greenline 40, is a 2018 model but she has several (thankfully fixable) issues and bad owner additions. I already have the plans to fix everything, and bring her back in the condition she deserves to be.

The boat and engine surveys, came back with many minor issues, nothing that should have kept me from buying her. Also, the purchase price was significantly lower than similar boats in the USA market. So, I am happy with the purchase, but I wish she was taken care of better. She deserves better. I find the Greenline 33 & 40 models very practical/useable boats with very beautiful and classic lines. I first noticed them in New Zealand, and I always admired the looks.

The factory 400 liter grey water tank installation is really bad. The tank is over the propeller shaft seals, and blocks maintenance of several important items in the engine room. It is impossible to service, clean or inspect the Volvo shaft seals. They are supposed to be burped and greased periodically. It is a safety issue for me. I already found out, from an internet owner's manual, where the grey water outlets are installed on a no-gray-water-tank boat. I just have to add a thru hole in the shower area, next to the black water outlet. I will do this at the boat yard, when she is arrives here.

She already has a small-looking sump box with a pump before the grey water tank. After I use the boat for a while, I will probably replace sump box with a larger one as you did. Did you have to enlarge the output thru hole?

The owner added an additional big A/C unit in the galley. I can understand the need for it in Florida, but in California I never use A/C on the water. I do not even have A/C on my house. I prefer to open windows/doors and enjoy the quiet. Plus, the added A/C unit takes up the trash container area, which is more needed. Thankfully, the installer used an existing A/C output opening. I can reconnect this output to the salon A/C, as the factory had it.

I also plan to add a second bilge pump in the lazarette or engine room, after I determine the lowest spot. The existing bilge pump (mid hull, guest stateroom aft) does not seem to remove bilge water well. There was a grey water leak, and the water could not be removed. I do not want water splashing around the bilge. I will reuse the removed galley A/C output thru hull for the additional bilge pump.

Finally, the previous owner had added a cellphone signal amplifier (badly too), which I will tear out. I do not want stronger cellphone microwave signals floating around in the boat. I prefer to stay healthy.

She has twin Volvo Penta D3-220 and a Kohler generator. They are in good working condition according to the survey and oil analysis. Also, the engines are under full warranty until the November 2022 or 1,000 hours, which is great! She topped out at 20 kts, but one engine would reach 150 rpm more, and would run with less load under the RPM range. The propeller of the higher revving engine was not as true as the other one. According to the mechanic's records, this issue existed since the original delivery of the boat. As I do not want to wait 2 more weeks to use the boat, I will probably wait for the next haul out.

I already purchased an improvement for her. Due to life circumstances, I do a lot of single-handing, which is one of the reasons this brand/model appealed to me. To make things easier on me, I purchased the YachtController. This is a wireless remote control of the engines and bow/stern thrusters. I've had it on a previous & larger boat, and it was indispensable. With the YachtController I can be anywhere on the boat (while docking, anchoring, picking up mooring lines, etc.) and still control her. This is a great, but not cheap, device.

I am excited to have her close to me to start working on things! Hopefully, she will arrive before the holidays. She's the New Year's present to me...

Congrats on the successful purchase, Boom23! It's difficult to understand how a boat as new as 2018 can already be in such a state of neglect! It's also difficult to understand why the previous owner would make such an investment and then, apparently, neglect it. Alas, I am afraid this is the case with many boats.

What are the diesels in it? Volvo Penta??

It's a shame to have to remove the grey water tank, as you might find yourself needing a grey water tank someday (new cruising area; new regulations). But, if you can't reach the shaft seals and water heater any other way, then I too would remove the grey water tank! I would recommend routing all your grey water plumbing to a 16L Whale sump & pump setup. Be sure to use a vented loop on the outlet side of the tank (this, to prevent any risk of siphon in the event of list due to bad weather).


https://www.amazon.com/Whale-Waste-Tanks-Intelligent-Control/dp/B07BK2YXB5
https://www.whalepumps.com/marine/p...yID=Grey-Waste-Tanks-With-Intelligent-Control


My GL33 came with an 8 liter Whale sump from the factory and I changed it to a 16 Liter model so the pump would not run so frequently.


Let me know if you have any possibly Greenline-specific questions, as there are quite a number of similarities between the 33 & the 40...and I might be able to help.


Good luck with your projects!

 

[ScottC]

Thank you!
I am excited to have her close to me to start working on things! Hopefully, she will arrive before the holidays. She's the New Year's present to me...

Hope all is going well with your updates and restorations, Boom23!


I agree with you, that with side door access to the deck, bow & stern thrusters and the YachtController the GL40 could be handled alone (except, perhaps, docking in severe weather in tight quarters...as it has lots of area to catch the wind).


On occasion, I handle my GL33 alone with just bow & stern thrusters on a remote control hanging around my neck. The boat is short enough that I can leave the helm and get to where I need to on deck pretty quickly. I have seen a GL40 with a "mini-helm", aft, in the cockpit.


I, too, prefer the "retro-modern" lines of the GL33 and GL40. Seeing the new models, however, I wonder how much longer GL will manufacture them.


I came across the picture below, which I found a bit intriguing...

 

[Boom23]

The boat in your picture looks like a much older Greenline 33/40! Very classic lines.

I am enjoying the GL40 very much! I was moored in Catalina, and I received compliments on the boat looks from a handful of people. This is the first time it has happened to me.

I have a very long list of upgrades/fixes. The previous owner was not very attentive and his work was very sloppy at best. Fortunately, the engines are Ok and under full warranty until end of 2022.

One of my first improvements was to remove the 100 gal grey water tank. It was taking up a large portion of the engine room, and was blocking access to the prop shafts, fresh water pump and water heater. I was able to remove the tank, and replumb the grey water hoses without adding any new thru holes. The engine room is much roomier and cleaner now.

I also removed an A/C unit that the previous owner added in the galley space used for trash. I never run A/C in California, and I needed a trash area. I will be selling the removed A/C unit soon.

I am now in the process of replacing the Microwave with a Convection oven. I am also waiting on Lithium batteries to replace the dead AGM house batteries. Like I said, the list is long...

Overall, I like the boat. She rides smoothly and flat. I love the livability of the one level salon/galley/cockpit area with the large windows and sunroof. The staterooms are just the right size, and have plenty of storage.

Life is good! Well, except for the Covid situation...

Hope all is going well with your updates and restorations, Boom23!


I agree with you, that with side door access to the deck, bow & stern thrusters and the YachtController the GL40 could be handled alone (except, perhaps, docking in severe weather in tight quarters...as it has lots of area to catch the wind).


On occasion, I handle my GL33 alone with just bow & stern thrusters on a remote control hanging around my neck. The boat is short enough that I can leave the helm and get to where I need to on deck pretty quickly. I have seen a GL40 with a "mini-helm", aft, in the cockpit.


I, too, prefer the "retro-modern" lines of the GL33 and GL40. Seeing the new models, however, I wonder how much longer GL will manufacture them.


I came across the picture below, which I found a bit intriguing...

 

[DDevlinJr]

Buying new or used

I’m just curious as to how you all feel about buying new versus used Greenline boats? It’s always been presented to me that buying “new” gets you exactly the boat you want and will be under warranty for a couple years. However most things that go wrong with a boat are discovered in the first few years, and biggest depreciation also happens in that same time period. Buying “used” means someone else, hopefully, went thru the “beta” period of getting the boat’s quirks ironed out and you’re getting essentially the same boat for a lot less money. Flip side is someone wanted to sell that boat, so maybe there’s something inherently wrong with it. I have no first hand knowledge of any of this. This is just what boater friends of mine have been telling me.

But I’m curious what you guys think? Especially when it comes to Greenline boats.

 

[gt7834a]

I have always been someone who buys used. Cars, boats, etc. The thing is there are virtually no used Greenlines on the market right now so you may not have a choice.

 

[ScottC]

Hi DDevlinJr,

For a diesel-only Greenline, I would say that the "used or new" considerations are the same as for any other fiberglass diesel boat.

For a hybrid Greenline, however, there are a few additional things you need to build into the "used or new" thought process:

1) For a used Greenline, you will want to take extra care to make sure the 48v hybrid battery has never been abused. This means a battery expert should be consulted to examine it. Load test, individual cell measurement, assess balancing accuracy of the BMS (battery management system), etc. If the previous owner ever let the battery fall below ~43.5 volts, or worse, 42v, where the battery shut down and had to be "revived", then the performance of the battery and remaining life will have likely been compromised. If there is one cell (of the 13 in the battery pack) that is "weak" and not pulling its share (not common!), then the battery pack is NOT to be used. It will need to be rebuilt (i.e. replace one cell - which is typically not the recommended way to go) or replace the entire battery pack ($$,$$$).

2) If looking at a GL33 or GL40 hybrid built ~2015 or before, then there is something you also will want to check about the electric motor. I won't go into that detail here, but you (or anyone considering one of these GL's) can PM me and I will advise what you need to check for.

3) If buying a used hybrid GL, you will want to understand how good the support network is in your area. If there's a dealer reasonably near by, great. If not, but a GL dealer was involved in the resale of the boat, this can still be a plus. If there are no dealers near by and the boat is out of warranty, you might want to interview the yard the previous owner used for service/maintenance/repair. Hybrids are complicated, compared to diesel-only boats. Don't let a sales person lead you to believe otherwise. This is not necessarily bad, but you have to be willing to go the extra mile to understand and appreciate how your hybrid system works. Same goes for the boat yard you may need to rely on for support.

Hope you will find my thoughts of some use. Good luck with your search!

 

[Boom23]

I paid less than half of the new boat price for my diesel-only 2018 Greenline 40. I can fix a LOT of things with that money I saved...

Just get a good boat and engine surveyor, and you should be fine. Boats depreciate a lot during the first few years.

I’m just curious as to how you all feel about buying new versus used Greenline boats? It’s always been presented to me that buying “new” gets you exactly the boat you want and will be under warranty for a couple years. However most things that go wrong with a boat are discovered in the first few years, and biggest depreciation also happens in that same time period. Buying “used” means someone else, hopefully, went thru the “beta” period of getting the boat’s quirks ironed out and you’re getting essentially the same boat for a lot less money. Flip side is someone wanted to sell that boat, so maybe there’s something inherently wrong with it. I have no first hand knowledge of any of this. This is just what boater friends of mine have been telling me.

But I’m curious what you guys think? Especially when it comes to Greenline boats.

 

[DDevlinJr]

9 knots in electric mode on the open sea!! I couldn’t believe it. Decided to switch back to Electrics while out on the Pacific Ocean. Decided to open her up. To my shock and surprise, I got her up to 9 knots, heading into the wind! Blown away.

 

[ScottC]

I may have missed one of your posts somewhere, DDevlinJr. Which GL did you end up buying?? I will guess GL40, because this post is in the GL40 thread...


9 knots in electric mode sounds fantastic. Amazing, actually. Almost too good to be true. I assume you're reading SOG off your plotter/gps? When you see this astounding performance again, it might be interesting to turn 180 degrees to see if you get a different SOG number. The few times I've encountered too-good-to-be-true speeds while running in electric mode, it turned out to be due to current/tidal current. Of course, if the current's going my way, it's still wonderful ;-)

 

[DDevlinJr]

I may have missed one of your posts somewhere, DDevlinJr. Which GL did you end up buying?? I will guess GL40, because this post is in the GL40 thread...


9 knots in electric mode sounds fantastic. Amazing, actually. Almost too good to be true. I assume you're reading SOG off your plotter/gps? When you see this astounding performance again, it might be interesting to turn 180 degrees to see if you get a different SOG number. The few times I've encountered too-good-to-be-true speeds while running in electric mode, it turned out to be due to current/tidal current. Of course, if the current's going my way, it's still wonderful ;-)

You’re correct, it hasn’t consistently been that high, but it has been consistently above 8 knots, and in the right conditions up to 9, so I’ve been blown away. Of course this is full throttle. And yes, I ended up picking up a Greenline 40. I love it. Now this particular boat does have an extra lithium battery, but I don’t know if that’s what’s affecting the speed. I’ll keep monitoring. But one big surprise for me is how often I’m able to use the Electric Engines in the open sea (in the right sea conditions). When I bought the boat, I had resigned myself to just being able to use Electrics in the harbor. But I’m often using Electrics in calmer seas and, man, talk about serenity! I just love it. I tend to do close to an hour on Electrics, then switch back to diesels. Then after just an hour of diesel use, my battery is nearly back to full, especially on sunny days.

 

[ScottC]

You’re correct, it hasn’t consistently been that high, but it has been consistently above 8 knots, and in the right conditions up to 9, so I’ve been blown away. Of course this is full throttle. And yes, I ended up picking up a Greenline 40. I love it. Now this particular boat does have an extra lithium battery, but I don’t know if that’s what’s affecting the speed. I’ll keep monitoring. But one big surprise for me is how often I’m able to use the Electric Engines in the open sea (in the right sea conditions). When I bought the boat, I had resigned myself to just being able to use Electrics in the harbor. But I’m often using Electrics in calmer seas and, man, talk about serenity! I just love it. I tend to do close to an hour on Electrics, then switch back to diesels. Then after just an hour of diesel use, my battery is nearly back to full, especially on sunny days.

Congrats on the GL40 Purchase!
The extra battery will not have any effect on speed, but it will on duration.
The speed you are experiencing is truly amazing. Enjoy it!
I have seen a fair amount of discussion over the years over optimal props for boats such as ours. At least on the GL33, the manufacturer had to strike a compromise between optimizing performance for diesel only (delivered with 4 blade prop) and hybrid (delivered with 5 blade prop). I wonder if you possibly have non-standard props that are fully optimized for electric only operation (at some expense to the diesel performance)??? Just a wild guess. Might be interesting to compare your prop specs to what the factory is delivering with hybrid GL40's today.