Greenline Hybrid: Solar Panel, Solar Charging & Propulsion Battery Discussions

[ScottC]

Interesting. It shows that with your panels both string options are doable. Also that you should have been able to get away with a 150/35.

When you look at the history, what's the highest Pmax that you see? Is it near 100% of the rated capacity on any of the days? My best in the last 8 days since fixing is 1124w, divided by the original 1300w and I'm still getting 86% of the original so pretty happy with that.

Main differences you would definitely notice by changing would be:
1. early morning, solar would kick in a bit earlier
2. late evening it will stay longer
3. if you're going under a bridge (issue for me, not so much for you) instead of the voltage dropping low enough to turn off the controller and then needing to wait until it comes back, it now stays on
4. Heavy cloud days where the voltage is marginal and solar doesn't kick in are now usable days

Thanks, Martin!
When not in a marina and living only on battery, on sunny days, my pMax is 95%+. One day, it was even 103% (1860w).
Your point number 4 above would be quite interesting for us after we return to Scandinavia. At this stage, however, I don't see enough benefit to fuss with re-wiring. Anything Victron always seems so configurable -- so it amazes me, frankly, that the MPPT controller can't be configured to be on anyway -- even with lower voltages. I don't see that this configuration is available, even in Expert Mode.

A question for your regarding your point 3 above. When the controller shuts off due to going under a bridge, how long does it take before it turns back on again?

 

[ScottC]

Hopefully the screenshot makes sense and you are able to follow. It has speed which can be considered a proxy for RPM and main battery SoC, Current and voltage.

Yesterday we did a fair bit of motoring with a couple of locks thrown in.
Day before we used a fair bit of battery and hence started the day ~55%.

Slipped the lines at 0700, electric out of the marina, then diesel. Around the corner and waited about 30 minutes for the lock to open. (Motor off and cooking on induction cooktop)
10 minutes on diesel to maneuver into the lock and then 15 minutes going thru the lock. 90 minutes up to the next lock and then we repeat again.

Notice the current trailing off down to almost zero by 11 o'clock? The remaining current there is from the solar panels as the generator is now in 'N' mode and not charging. Working exactly as it's supposed to but, it started doing that at about 52.2 volts not the 53.6 volts that is says in my Iskra manual.

End result is that using my diesel motor to charge batteries stops charging at 84% and I need to use solar / shore power to get to 100%.

Has anybody else noticed similar?

Can't read the text on the photo, even after clicking on it. Too small.

Anyway, yes - It has always been my experience that diesel does not take it to 100%. For me, it seems that the generator charging cuts out around 52.8volts, if memory serves. I will pay closer attention during the coming weeks and report back. For me, this has been quite good enough and I've had little incentive to research tweaking it, since charging by diesel is not so efficient anyway (but yes, very convenient!).

I just took a look at my Iskra manual and see that it says <= 53,6volts for diesel charging.

Interesting that you mention using diesel in the locks. For us, we find electric best for locks, as it gives greater precision, accuracy and less torque with reduced opportunity for mistake/error/damage to boat. But then, for us, the locks we travel in are most often small, narrow-dimensioned granite-walled affairs from centuries past. I could understand where diesel would likely be preferable in large, modern, commercial locks.

Ideal for us when cruising the old canals in France is to leave the marina (with full charge on un-metered and often free electricity), travel 10-25km (including 1-10 locks) all on electric/solar and then charge up again at the next marina. Of course, this only works if you KNOW there is going to be reliable electric at the next marina. It's not always easy to know.

 

[ScottC]

Here’s a Victron wish I will post here, In case somebody has an idea about an answer…

My Multi-Plus charger/inverter is configured to act as a UPS and provide power assist. I can dial the amperage draw all the way down to 3.5 amps, but not lower. The next step is 0.0 amps. I asked Victron about this and they said it is normal and correct behavior, as my multi needs at least 3.5 amps to function.

Since we’ve been cruising in southern Italy and Sicily it’s our experience that at least 50% of the marinas have substantially less than 230v. Most often 205-215volts…but we’ve seen as low as 175 (!). The Victron multi (at least as ours is configured) can deal with anything down to 195v for charging. Our Dometic CruiseAir A/C gets upset and shuts off on safety with voltages less than about 211v.
We have to leave the A/C on, even when we’re away from the boat, so Raffaello (our cat) does not roast.

One workaround that has helped at some marinas is for me to dial back the Victron amperage draw to the minimum 3.5 amps. Doing this forces the battery to supply the lion’s share of the power via the inverter and hence the voltage level improves to something that the A/C can deal with. When (and if) the A/C shuts off because it has achieved the desired temperature, the Victron multi sets about charging. This strategy works for shore power levels down to about 205 volts. Below that, my only choice is to set the amperage draw to 0 and run only on inverter and hope the battery gets us to night time, when the A/C is not needed and charging can resume.

What I would really like to do is to be able to set the multi to run fully on the inverter until the battery level gets down to, say, 10-20% and only then allow shore power to be drawn (at whatever amperage setting I have set). This maximizes the opportunity for solar input, which can be substantial on most days. Currently, if I am at a marina and plugged into shore power, solar can’t provide any input until the battery level is down to 90% or so. In other words, at a normal marina, with a good power infrastructure, solar never has the opportunity to provide input. This is especially disappointing at marinas with metered electricity!

A Victron factory engineer said what I want could probably be custom configured, but that I would have to go through my Victron reseller/consultant route. The thought of that is daunting, as my boat was made in Slovenia, I purchased it in Denmark, my home is in Sweden and the boat is in Malta/Italy/Greece. Just who does Victron consider “my reseller” to be? I’ve received TWO different answers from Victron on this (!) I’m sure if I approach one, they will tell me to go to another country for support. I know it’s a long shot, but maybe somebody on TF has found a Victron-relevant configuration solution to this situation?? Or maybe I’m approaching this entirely the wrong way and new ideas will emerge!

 

[martyc]

Our Dometic CruiseAir A/C gets upset and shuts off on safety with voltages less than about 211v.

You get a Low AC error on the AirCon panel right? I get that too. I was using a similar work around of limiting the current so that the inverter would assist and keep the AC clean and high enough and rely on the cycling of the compressor to charge the battery in between, however in the last week or two I have noticed something else that _seems_ to work.

If you dial the current down and then it takes longer than 10 hours to charge to 100%, the bulk light starts flashing and it goes into passthru mode. This is the bulk protection mode kicking in. At that point, dial up the current limiter back to 16 or whatever your shore power will provide and then it seems to provide clean power again. When the multi goes into passthru mode all AC loads are covered by the shore power.

It's almost as though while it's charging it doesn't have enough grunt to do the aircon as well but once it's stopped trying to charge then it can do the aircon cleanly.

 

[martyc]

Multiplus configuration

@ScottC
For some reason I assume(d) you have access to the vrm portal. If you do then you can look at the devices and then download the configuration of the multi. Then open the downloaded config file in VEConfigure (which you will need to download and install) and then you can view the config and even export which is what I did to provide the attached.

Note that my multi float voltage is 53.70 volts.

With my MPPT I have two custom presets: Summer and Winter. I've had the summer profile set a bit higher but have just configured it for 53.72v. We're plugged in to a marina for the next week. I'll let you know how it goes but the expectation is that the multi will take it up to 53.7 and then the solar will keep it going just a little bit more. I expect that would mean that when the aircon is running it will use all of the solar and then use shore power for the rest.

 

[martyc]

A question for your regarding your point 3 above. When the controller shuts off due to going under a bridge, how long does it take before it turns back on again?

With the two panels in series it was random. Sometimes about a minute. Worst case was about 45 minutes!

 

[martyc]

Can't read the text on the photo, even after clicking on it. Too small.

Interesting that you mention using diesel in the locks. For us, we find electric best for locks, as it gives greater precision, accuracy and less torque with reduced opportunity for mistake/error/damage to boat. But then, for us, the locks we travel in are most often small, narrow-dimensioned granite-walled affairs from centuries past. I could understand where diesel would likely be preferable in large, modern, commercial locks.

Ideal for us when cruising the old canals in France is to leave the marina (with full charge on un-metered and often free electricity), travel 10-25km (including 1-10 locks) all on electric/solar and then charge up again at the next marina. Of course, this only works if you KNOW there is going to be reliable electric at the next marina. It's not always easy to know.

You should be able to download the file from here and then zoom in.

https://github.com/mdcaddic/greenline33/blob/main/Generator - Charging.png

On that day we were on the Rhine from Breisach to Kembs. Yes electric _in_ the locks but out there on the Rhine, diesel between the locks. Today we went from Kembs to Mulhouse on electric stopping for lunch. All up about 20kms and we started with 100% and finished just under 60%.

For me the sweet spot in France is between 3 and 4km. If it's less than that between the locks then I stay with electric, more and I come out of the lock on diesel and run all the way to the next lock. Heats the water to 80 degrees on the way, so we do the dishes or cook on the run.

Seems like no-one is doing free electricity anymore, most are charging a flat rate with anything from EUR3 to EUR5 per night. Where they are charging per kwh, it's been between 0.30c to EUR2 per kwh.

 

[martyc]

Solar to assist shore power with aircon.

What I would really like to do is to be able to set the multi to run fully on the inverter until the battery level gets down to, say, 10-20% and only then allow shore power to be drawn (at whatever amperage setting I have set). This maximizes the opportunity for solar input, which can be substantial on most days. Currently, if I am at a marina and plugged into shore power, solar can’t provide any input until the battery level is down to 90% or so. In other words, at a normal marina, with a good power infrastructure, solar never has the opportunity to provide input. This is especially disappointing at marinas with metered electricity!

Try this.

Setup:
Leave multiplus completely untouched.
Create a custom profile for the MPPT using the app.
For me the 'summer' profile is Absorption voltage = 54.25, Float = 54.23, everything else is default but we can document that later.


Time 1241:
Current limiter at 14A or something high until it gets to float. Allow PV to get to Float as well.
AirCon is off at this stage

Time 1244:
Change current limiter down to 3A or similar.
Start AirCon
When it first started my voltage was at 54.23 and then the grid started supplying 743w (limited by the current) and I started using the remainder from the battery.

Time 1245:
AirCon has been on for 1 minute.
Solar has now kicked in and is trying to keep the voltage of the battery at float voltage 54.23v therefore 500w (all that I'm making atm) of solar is being used.

Time 1247:
AirCon off, back to both low.

 

[ScottC]

You get a Low AC error on the AirCon panel right? I get that too. I was using a similar work around of limiting the current so that the inverter would assist and keep the AC clean and high enough and rely on the cycling of the compressor to charge the battery in between, however in the last week or two I have noticed something else that _seems_ to work.

If you dial the current down and then it takes longer than 10 hours to charge to 100%, the bulk light starts flashing and it goes into passthru mode. This is the bulk protection mode kicking in. At that point, dial up the current limiter back to 16 or whatever your shore power will provide and then it seems to provide clean power again. When the multi goes into passthru mode all AC loads are covered by the shore power.

It's almost as though while it's charging it doesn't have enough grunt to do the aircon as well but once it's stopped trying to charge then it can do the aircon cleanly.

Thanks for the tip, Marty!

 

[ScottC]

Try this.

Setup:
Leave multiplus completely untouched.
Create a custom profile for the MPPT using the app.
For me the 'summer' profile is Absorption voltage = 54.25, Float = 54.23, everything else is default but we can document that later.


Time 1241:
Current limiter at 14A or something high until it gets to float. Allow PV to get to Float as well.
AirCon is off at this stage

Time 1244:
Change current limiter down to 3A or similar.
Start AirCon
When it first started my voltage was at 54.23 and then the grid started supplying 743w (limited by the current) and I started using the remainder from the battery.

Time 1245:
AirCon has been on for 1 minute.
Solar has now kicked in and is trying to keep the voltage of the battery at float voltage 54.23v therefore 500w (all that I'm making atm) of solar is being used.

Time 1247:
AirCon off, back to both low.

Thanks for all of the tips and suggestions, Marty! I do have the Multi Config software and connector and have used it for various things. I will review your suggestions and consider trying them!

 

[ScottC]

Here’s a Victron wish I will post here, In case somebody has an idea about an answer…

Since we’ve been cruising in southern Italy and Sicily it’s our experience that at least 50% of the marinas have substantially less than 230v. Most often 205-215volts…but we’ve seen as low as 175 (!). The Victron multi (at least as ours is configured) can deal with anything down to 195v for charging. Our Dometic CruiseAir A/C gets upset and shuts off on safety with voltages less than about 211v.

On July 20th, we arrived in Greece and the power infrastructure here has, so far, been stellar. No low voltage like much of southern Italy and Sicily. Happiness!

 

[ScottC]

Can't read the text on the photo, even after clicking on it. Too small.

Anyway, yes - It has always been my experience that diesel does not take it to 100%. For me, it seems that the generator charging cuts out around 52.8volts, if memory serves. I will pay closer attention during the coming weeks and report back. For me, this has been quite good enough and I've had little incentive to research tweaking it, since charging by diesel is not so efficient anyway (but yes, very convenient!).

I just took a look at my Iskra manual and see that it says <= 53,6volts for diesel charging.

Interesting that you mention using diesel in the locks. For us, we find electric best for locks, as it gives greater precision, accuracy and less torque with reduced opportunity for mistake/error/damage to boat. But then, for us, the locks we travel in are most often small, narrow-dimensioned granite-walled affairs from centuries past. I could understand where diesel would likely be preferable in large, modern, commercial locks.

Ideal for us when cruising the old canals in France is to leave the marina (with full charge on un-metered and often free electricity), travel 10-25km (including 1-10 locks) all on electric/solar and then charge up again at the next marina. Of course, this only works if you KNOW there is going to be reliable electric at the next marina. It's not always easy to know.

I have watched this closely for a few cycles now and for me, the diesel charging stops at 53.2 volts.

 

[martyc]

I have watched this closely for a few cycles now and for me, the diesel charging stops at 53.2 volts.

Thanks Scott.
I got an email back from aftersales that says in part ...

===
After thorough examination and consultation with our suppliers, we regret to inform you that, at present, we do not have the capability to repair or replace the HCU. We understand the frustration this may cause, and we share in your disappointment.

However, we want to assure you that we are actively working with our supplier to develop a retrofit kit specifically designed for the older HCU models. Our aim is to provide a solution that will allow for proper functionality and compatibility with your VW engine boat. We anticipate that this retrofit kit will be available by the end of the year.
===

By the way, have you seen this bit from Victron about prioritizing solar and wind? https://community.victronenergy.com/questions/222415/venus-os-v31022-available-for-testing.html

 

[ScottC]

Wow. I hope your HCU is currently working! Thank you for sharing this info. Good to know. Our HCU is working fine. Has been for years, however we had to send it to Slovenia twice for service/rebuilding around the period 2012-2014. I never received any info on what the exact problem was and what they did to fix it. I was only told back then that if it failed again, it would not be repairable - it would have to be replaced entirely. I hope our luck holds...at the very least, until the end of the year.

 

[PeterB40]

Wow. I hope your HCU is currently working! Thank you for sharing this info. Good to know. Our HCU is working fine. Has been for years, however we had to send it to Slovenia twice for service/rebuilding around the period 2012-2014. I never received any info on what the exact problem was and what they did to fix it. I was only told back then that if it failed again, it would not be repairable - it would have to be replaced entirely. I hope our luck holds...at the very least, until the end of the year.

Hi Scott, and MartyC also. I'm interested in what "symptoms" your boats experienced with HCU failure, and how you diagnosed it as the problem. as I still haven't got electric propulsion after two replacements of clutch master and slave cylinders. My 33 is a '14 model, and has the REC BMS on the battery for whatever that's worth.
Thanks! Pete

 

[ScottC]

Hi Scott, and MartyC also. I'm interested in what "symptoms" your boats experienced with HCU failure, and how you diagnosed it as the problem. as I still haven't got electric propulsion after two replacements of clutch master and slave cylinders. My 33 is a '14 model, and has the REC BMS on the battery for whatever that's worth.
Thanks! Pete

Hi PeterB.
On both occasions, the symptoms were:
1) "HCU LOST!" message on the DDI (Digital Data Interface at the helm next to the Victron BMV gauge)
2) No electric propulsion
3) No recharge of the hybrid battery when running on diesel, though it recharged fine with shore power and solar...so we did not need to cancel planned cruises.

 

[PeterB40]

Hi PeterB.
On both occasions, the symptoms were:
1) "HCU LOST!" message on the DDI (Digital Data Interface at the helm next to the Victron BMV gauge)
2) No electric propulsion
3) No recharge of the hybrid battery when running on diesel, though it recharged fine with shore power and solar...so we did not need to cancel planned cruises.

Thanks Scott - I have no error messages on the DDI when attempting electric powering - just no RPM's with throttle, and diesel charging is normal. The Lithium bank is now 9 years old, and seems not to have lost a step.

Two 12V AGM's have failed: engine start and stern-thruster. Replaced these as well as the windlass/bow-thruster pre-emptively due to difficult access, and kept the old as an emergency spare for the service 12V.

Our Monterey Bay Breakwater Cove marina is poorly protected from the usual 4-8' swell of the wide-open bay and the enhanced 15-25kt NW summer winds, so both thrusters are essential getting in & out of our slip.

 

[martyc]

Hi Scott, and MartyC also. I'm interested in what "symptoms" your boats experienced with HCU failure, and how you diagnosed it as the problem. as I still haven't got electric propulsion after two replacements of clutch master and slave cylinders. My 33 is a '14 model, and has the REC BMS on the battery for whatever that's worth.
Thanks! Pete

Hi Peter,
To be clear, my HCU is working, just not optimally. On diesel, it should continue to charge the battery up until 53.6v. It's actually going into 'N' mode (bypass) at 52.25v which is only 84% battery. From there I need to use solar or shore power to get to 100%

Re your issue, how does it go when you do the 'Clutch Function Test'?
How to check if the clutch is disengaged:
 -set the DIESEL / ELECTRIC HYBRID
SWITCH to ELECTRIC,
 -E-motor should be run at gearbox neutral
position and full throttle –max. revolutions.
 Data display interface (DDI) must display:
 E-motor min. 1400 rpm
 battery current draw max. 40A

Mine gets
1481RPM for 32 Amps in Forward
1484 RPM for 29.5 Amps in Reverse

Also, have been able to check the potentiometer?

Setting the potentiometer for E-motor mode within the range of diesel motor
throttle lever
Check the link in my signature for the ISKRA manual if you don't have it

 

[martyc]

Hi Scott, and MartyC also. I'm interested in what "symptoms" your boats experienced with HCU failure, and how you diagnosed it as the problem. as I still haven't got electric propulsion after two replacements of clutch master and slave cylinders. My 33 is a '14 model, and has the REC BMS on the battery for whatever that's worth.
Thanks! Pete

Not a HCU problem but _very_ concerning.
[SpoilerAlert]When we first got the boat and came back after a winter the bowthruster battery had dropped a cell so it was only about 9.5 volts.

Leaving the dock initially under electric the motor stopped. Thinking, that's ok I'll use diesel. That didn't work either! There I was thinking I had two separate systems and apparently I didn't. Towed back to the pen without any damage to us or other boats.
Lots of fault finding over two days and there is a fuse on the side of the VW engine that is blown. I think this provides power to the on/off switch on the console.
Fast forward another day and I'm leaving the dock again (still didn't know about the bowthruster battery yet) and it happens again.
At least this time I know how to fix and I now have a fistful of fuses. I now see that when I turn power on and then <1 second burst on the bow thruster I see that the LCD display in the tacho goes back to INIT. It's rebooting!
Having nailed it down to the bowthruster I went looking further and found the dead cell.
Replaced the battery and (touch wood) never had that problem again.

 

[ScottC]

@martyc - wow, that's a weird problem like I have never encountered before! Really strange. I, too, always thought these were two entirely separate systems. Makes one wonder if something was "mis-wired" from the beginning??? When we took delivery of our boat, we got a low 12v battery warning from the engine near the end of our 75nm trip home. We were close enough to home to make it without any issue, fortunately. Investigation during the following days led to the discovery of a the end of a red / positive cable laying on the floor of the bilge, hidden under the engine. Subsequent discussions with factory customer service led to the answer. Somebody at the factory had forgotten to attach this end to the "+" post on the alternator. (!!!)

@PeterB - The fact that you have no error messages or "HCU Lost" on the DDI is great news. It means to me that your HCU is most likely OK! I would do next what martyc is recommending regarding the RPM test. If you get RPM's, then your electric motor is turning and it suggests the problem still lies somewhere with the clutch mechanism. In case you don't know (as I didn't at the beginning), the way to rev the electric motor (or diesel engine) in neutral is to push the plastic button on the side "axle" of the gearshift in and move the lever gently forward (or backward). You will see the electric motor RPMs on your DDI.

Finally, I will mention something here that really is likely not related to you, but is related to the topic and could be useful to others reading this thread. Back in 2012 or so, the factory, in helping me troubleshoot my "HCU Lost!" problem had me check a little black box in the bilge that was mounted on wood just aft of the big silver-colored HCU box. It is a small transformer that steps down 48v to 12v(24v?) to power the HCU. This transformer, apparently, has been known to burn out and need replacement. It's not a very special thing - probably something one can get locally off the shelf. It also has an in-line glass fuse that should be checked too. But again, this transformer would only be something to check if you were seeing "HCU Lost!" in the DDI. Otherwise, you can safely assume the transformer is ok.

 

[PeterB40]

Hi Peter,
To be clear, my HCU is working, just not optimally. On diesel, it should continue to charge the battery up until 53.6v. It's actually going into 'N' mode (bypass) at 52.25v which is only 84% battery. From there I need to use solar or shore power to get to 100%

Re your issue, how does it go when you do the 'Clutch Function Test'?
How to check if the clutch is disengaged:
 -set the DIESEL / ELECTRIC HYBRID
SWITCH to ELECTRIC,
 -E-motor should be run at gearbox neutral
position and full throttle –max. revolutions.
 Data display interface (DDI) must display:
 E-motor min. 1400 rpm
 battery current draw max. 40A

Mine gets
1481RPM for 32 Amps in Forward
1484 RPM for 29.5 Amps in Reverse

Also, have been able to check the potentiometer?

Setting the potentiometer for E-motor mode within the range of diesel motor
throttle lever
Check the link in my signature for the ISKRA manual if you don't have it

Thanks! I have the Iskra manual on the boat, and did the pot. setting not long after I got the boat in '19 when all was normal, but haven't done it since the three slave & master cyl. replacements, I don't believe. I don't remember the RPM's achieved, but they were within specs. The procedure is in the Greenline owner's manual also I think, and I will have another go at it!

Pete

 

[martyc]

Multiplus firmware

Worked with a Victron guy here in France we have upgraded the firmware on the Multiplus from v13 to v159.
This has kept the configuration the same with the Virtual Switch as opposed to the Virtual Assistants that would be available in v209 which the last version available. I was aiming for minimal changes. This now allows me to download the configuration using VRM, change the float voltage from 53.70 (as configured from the factory) to 48v and then upload the configuration again. Now I feel confident on just leaving it plugged in over the winter.
When I come back next year I'll reconfigure the float back to 53.7.
I've also created a 'Summer' and 'Winter' profile for the MPPT that sets the float voltages to the same values.
We've decided to go with an 8m x 12m tarp to cover everything hence the need to get the inverter/charger bit working at 48v.

 

[martyc]

Here’s a Victron wish I will post here, In case somebody has an idea about an answer…

A Victron factory engineer said what I want could probably be custom configured ....

The answer is yes absolutely, a custom configuration sounds like the way to go.

https://community.victronenergy.com/storage/attachments/3299-virtual-switch-ignore-ac-lesson.pdf

The virtual switch setting we currently have is the default. Unknown is if Greenline configured the other end of the VS Switch.

_however_it looks like it's possible to do what you're after.
We're 2 days away from wintering so it's not something I'm going to play with further this year. I am still in the process of fine tuning the 'stay at 48v for the winter' profile.

 

[ptalbot]

Does someone know the communication protocol used for the electric propulsion?

I'm asking the question because if it is NMEA2000 or J1939, then it would be possible to add a feature of digital anchor to have the boat at the same position without having to drop the anchor for the night, which is much less trouble. Using a controller with IMU (including digital compass) & GPS, this could be done.

 

[ScottC]

Does someone know the communication protocol used for the electric propulsion?

I'm asking the question because if it is NMEA2000 or J1939, then it would be possible to add a feature of digital anchor to have the boat at the same position without having to drop the anchor for the night, which is much less trouble. Using a controller with IMU (including digital compass) & GPS, this could be done.

Hi ptalbot.
You don't state which Greenline model/year you are referring to. In my 2010 GL33, it's ISKRA motor and Hybrid controller and I very much believe they use a proprietary protocol -- but I don't know for certain.

If I understand what you're trying to do correctly, it gives me pause. While theoretically, it might be possible to accomplish (?), would you be able to sleep at night with your boat driving around, unmonitored in an anchorage? Even if the numerous components involved played nicely together and were reliable, they will not know about other boats, buoys and other possible obstructions in the anchorage. Furthermore, it would consume hybrid battery energy. I truly believe that an old-fashioned anchor and anchor alarm (plotter or app) is really the best way to go.

 

[PeterB40]

Hi ptalbot.
You don't state which Greenline model/year you are referring to. In my 2010 GL33, it's ISKRA motor and Hybrid controller and I very much believe they use a proprietary protocol -- but I don't know for certain.

If I understand what you're trying to do correctly, it gives me pause. While theoretically, it might be possible to accomplish (?), would you be able to sleep at night with your boat driving around, unmonitored in an anchorage? Even if the numerous components involved played nicely together and were reliable, they will not know about other boats, buoys and other possible obstructions in the anchorage. Furthermore, it would consume hybrid battery energy. I truly believe that an old-fashioned anchor and anchor alarm (plotter or app) is really the best way to go.

Yep, there's no way a GL33 Hybrid can stay keep a stationary position in a dynamic situation without use of at least the bow thruster, due to it's very "slow" helm action of 5-6 wheel revs lock-to-lock. and the bow-thruster is right under your head in the V-berth! A dual-engine hybrid such as the lovely 40 might have a much easier time of it. But blind trust and sound sleep, no way!

Just getting into/out-of our Monterey Hbr. Breakwater Cove Marina slip, subtect to an ever-present surge as well as wind off the stbd. bow usually, requires much use of both bow and stern thrusters, with helm amid-ship.

 

[ptalbot]

Hi ptalbot.
You don't state which Greenline model/year you are referring to. In my 2010 GL33, it's ISKRA motor and Hybrid controller and I very much believe they use a proprietary protocol -- but I don't know for certain.

If I understand what you're trying to do correctly, it gives me pause. While theoretically, it might be possible to accomplish (?), would you be able to sleep at night with your boat driving around, unmonitored in an anchorage? Even if the numerous components involved played nicely together and were reliable, they will not know about other boats, buoys and other possible obstructions in the anchorage. Furthermore, it would consume hybrid battery energy. I truly believe that an old-fashioned anchor and anchor alarm (plotter or app) is really the best way to go.

Hi Scott,

The model that I would be interested is the 45 or 48 Fly. The year would be 2015 or newer. The idea I had include an independant geofence monitoring to provide an alarm if the boat drift. For the other obstacles around, the digital anchor or a true anchor doesn't remove this risk. As for the energy, it should be very low unless there is strong wind which in this case an anchor would be recommanded.

 

[Geppo]

48V HYBRID DRIVE SWITCH in Diesel Mode

Dear All,
I just bougth an 2010 Greenlin 33 Hybrid and I'm very exited. I love her... but I am a little puzzled on few points:
In the manual I read:

"When the hybrid drive operates in the generator mode it is not allowed to disconnect the 48V HYBRID DRIVE SWITCH. Tn the extreme case this can cause a permanent failure of the electronic controller"

What does this mean? It means that when in DIESEL Mode I must have allways the 48V HYBRID DRIVE SWITCH ON?
Or it means that if I start the diesel engine with 48V HYBRID DRIVE SWITCH ON I cannot switch it off? but I can start the Diesel with 48V HYBRID DRIVE SWITCH OFF?

In case, How I can run the Diesel engine without charging the 48V Battery?

Thank you so much for your help!

 

[PeterB40]

Dear All,
I just bougth an 2010 Greenlin 33 Hybrid and I'm very exited. I love her... but I am a little puzzled on few points:
In the manual I read:

"When the hybrid drive operates in the generator mode it is not allowed to disconnect the 48V HYBRID DRIVE SWITCH. Tn the extreme case this can cause a permanent failure of the electronic controller"

What does this mean? It means that when in DIESEL Mode I must have allways the 48V HYBRID DRIVE SWITCH ON?
Or it means that if I start the diesel engine with 48V HYBRID DRIVE SWITCH ON I cannot switch it off? but I can start the Diesel with 48V HYBRID DRIVE SWITCH OFF?

In case, How I can run the Diesel engine without charging the 48V Battery?

Thank you so much for your help!

I would definitely take the factory's words to heart to avoid any damage to the hybrid controller system! This may be the reason why my 2014 '33 Hybrid model with the VW 165 HP engine no longer has an external Hybrid disconnect switch - or any switch external to the hybrid control box beneath the aft end of the port seat cusion.

So no, you can't safely run the diesel without charging the battery. Unless the battery is severly discharged it won't draw the full 5kW/100A charging power @ 2000RPM and above, which rapidly tapers down as voltage rises. I can't think of a reason why one would want to turn this function off.

 

[Geppo]

Thank you PeterB40
Very Clear!