Heater for Boat

[Shrew]

1. If you're okay with generator run and your A/C has heat as well as cool, tough to beat. Does a nice job on Florida climate.

I personally wouldn't want to have to run my generator for 15 hours a day if I were on a mooring or anchored.

I don't recall seeing anyone suggest Webasto.

 

[koliver]

I don't recall seeing anyone suggest Webasto.

Here in SW BC, Webasto now appear in many hydronic applications, Espar in forced air, but the operational parts of Webasto and Espar are almost identical.

I had Webasto in my 1982 sailboat and Espar in my 1980 trawler. Both were forced air. Though larger capacity, the Espar appeared to be a Webasto with a coat of orange paint.
Ran the same, same problems, same maintenance history, similar handbook describing typical usage in buses in northern Europe.

 

[rpackard]

heaters

On my Willard 30 I have used a Webasto forced air for the past 20 years. After fixing an installation error by the previous owner, it has worked flawlessly in SE Alaska. It draws 3.5A when running. forced air has the advantage that you can place wet clothes by a port and dry them.

When I wanted a heater for my Willard 40 I purchased a Wallis, mainly because it is advertised as requiring only 1.5A running rather than the Webasto 3.5 . The installation on the Wallis was much more difficult than the Webasto. Too many 3.5" holes to make.

What I did not realize is that, since the Wallis is on 100% of the time and the duty cycle of the Webasto is only about 50%, in the end the battery consumption is about the same.

It is true that the Webasto is noisy outside, but I am not usually outside if it is cold enough for the heater to be on. The Wallis on the other hand is noisier inside.

The hydronic heaters use too much battery current for me. the circulation pump is the culprit. If this is not a problem then this is a very nice way to go. More versatile and no large-size ducting to run.

If I were to install a heater today it would likely be a Webasto type. If I had the space, a Dickenson would be even better (essentially zero current draw) but their quality control has really gone down hill. I purchased one for the Willard 40 and returned it when I found that the chimney port was not perpendicular to the top of the unit. It was off about 5 degrees.

Obviously all the choices have their own pluses and minuses.

Richard P.

 

[Marco Flamingo]

My Chinese heater isn't crap. It's a vast improvement over the expensive German Scheisse that it replaced. Draws almost 8 amps when the glow plug heats up at the start, then down to 2 amps after a minute, then under 1.4 at idle. With a muffler on the exhaust and a sound insulated tickle pump, I have to check the thermostat to see if it is on. I have an adjustable vent in the V berth, the head, and the main cabin. No exhaust smell like the prior heater. Two years, no problems, including windy below-freezing weather at anchor. $120 well spent. I've nicknamed it Dieter to help me with my xenophobia.

 

[mvweebles]

I personally wouldn't want to have to run my generator for 15 hours a day if I were on a mooring or anchored.



I don't recall seeing anyone suggest Webasto.

Understood. The OP is located in Madeira Beach FL. He really only needs occasional heat to take the chill off. 90% of the responses here suggest a solution designed for full time liveaboard in genuinely cold climates. In South Florida, a boater may only need to run a heater for a few hours over a long weekend. Or maybe not at all.

Peter

 

[rpackard]

marco,
Which heater did you purchase?

 

[tiltrider1]

Webasto and Espar units had their time. They are way down the list of units I would recommend at this time. The Wallace unit out shines the Webasto and Espar in most cases. Once you get to Hydronic heating I think there are better options than Webasto.

That said, if I acquired a boat with a Webasto or Espar I would not consider it junk. Properly maintained they will last a long time. Coking is the big issue with Webasto and Espar units, those units that are used every month tend to keep on working. Those units that get turned off for long summers tend to have coking issues frequently.

 

[Hippocampus]

Had a wesbasto hydronic on the prior boat. It was faultless. Used only in the shoulder seasons so intermittent use. Found putting an airtight plug in the exhaust when it wasn’t going to be put to use saved the nozzle. Over 8 years of intermittent seasonal use didn’t run into coking problems but during those seasons it was on during the evening, night and until mid morning.
Current boat has an Espar hydronic. Seems a much simpler device. Unlike the Wesbasto no thermostat to set. Just a dial giving you mild to extreme heat. Like the wesbasto you can hear the furnace click on and off. But even when outside the noise is minimal. Currently docked port to. Exhaust on port side. It’s hot enough that even with ball fenders I was worried about starting the dock on fire. So using reverse AC. Much prefer the dry even heat of hydronic to forced hot air or reverse AC. Heat rises from the floor. Fans behind the radiators are small there’s no drafts. Closest to home heating imho. Negligible interior noise. AC makes more noise. Multiple registers and zones.

 

[Marco Flamingo]

marco,
Which heater did you purchase?

It was essentially this one. My brand was "Warmtoo" if that matter (then $109 with accessories). These heaters seem to be fairly generic, but look carefully at the included accessories. None will have an exhaust through hull for a boat. The included muffler (if any) will not be for enclosed spaces. So there will be a need for separate purchases. But the rest of the accessories can make a big difference in the overall cost. Required duct work, remote thermostats, etc., should be figured out because these Chinese heater packages come with various options. My new superior heater could use some of the crappy German expensive rip-off fittings from the old heater, so I had additional cost savings over the old Nazi inspired previous heater. Ooops, my xenophobia is showing.

 

[FF]

Folks installing any diesel heater need to remember GRP burns very well and is difficult to extinguish .


The pot burner (like a Dickinson) with a water deck iron for the exhaust to go thru the overhead is probably safest, especially if the heat will be on for months.

 

[ksanders]

Folks installing any diesel heater need to remember GRP burns very well and is difficult to extinguish .


The pot burner (like a Dickinson) with a water deck iron for the exhaust to go thru the overhead is probably safest, especially if the heat will be on for months.

A really great design feature of the Wallas furnaces is that the exhaust is cool to the touch, where the others can be several hundred degrees.

That's is because the Wallas uses a tube within a tube exhaust. Cool combustion air flows through the outer tube while the hot exhaust flows through the inner tube.

Here in the United States that is one of the reasons that Espar did not support marine installations. There was a company out of Seattle Sure Marine that combined aftermarket parts with the espar heaters to adapt them for marine use.

 

[Nomad Willy]

When I was shopping (bout 20 yrs ago) I chose the Wabasto over the Wallas for some reason most likely having to do w efficiency but the comments here, R Packard and all don’t indicate that’s much of an issue.

Was aboard Island Cessna’s W36 w hydronic and it was effective and well mannered. My Airtop 2000 (baby Wabby) was noisy if stand on the float facing the stern but that almost never happens of course either in port or at anchor. Still don’t see the fuss about the noise and I think my Avalon has a noisy engine.

But sooting up after 800hrs was an issue for me so converted to kerosene. If I had it to do over (sold the boat) I’d go w the diesel and clean every so often. Just because of the fuel handling issue w kero. Cost, frequently filling dedicated little tank and the kero jugs in the hold plus more trips to the hard to get into hold.

But the what system to employ question is heavily predicated on one’s boat and how it’s used. And safety is an issue w all combustible fuels.

Perhaps for some a little wood stove could be perfect. But few have even a small woodshed on the aft deck. And in Florida a wool blanket is far cheaper.

 

[Seevee]

For the price of a Buddy heater, it could be a solution to just take the chill off in the morning, but still considering a diesel heater for the longer runs.



So, do most marinas carry the 20# propane tanks or fill mine?

 

[FF]

"So, do most marinas carry the 20# propane tanks or fill mine?"

Not usually ,

Big hassle with any un vented heater is burning fuel releases water vapor and exhaust fumes into the boat .

This can cause a muggy feeling on board , or can kill you if the boat venting is really tight.

 

[Seevee]

"So, do most marinas carry the 20# propane tanks or fill mine?"

Not usually ,

Big hassle with any un vented heater is burning fuel releases water vapor and exhaust fumes into the boat .

This can cause a muggy feeling on board , or can kill you if the boat venting is really tight.

Thanks.. just trying to get a handle on how difficult it would be to get propane at marinas.


Understand the un vented issues... non issue.

 

[mvweebles]

Seevee - Last summer during Covid lockdown I discovered "Cynch," a company that delivers filled propane bottles. I' schedule online, leave my empty bottle on my front porch, and a full replacement would appear with a day or two. I have never been at risk of running out since. If thr service is offered in your area and your marina has suitable place to discreetly leave a bottle, might work for you.

Peter

 

[HTurner]

Though they do not deliver, U-Haul does refill and they have a legion of locations.


https://www.uhaul.com/Propane/

 

[Seevee]

Though they do not deliver, U-Haul does refill and they have a legion of locations.


https://www.uhaul.com/Propane/

Excellent idea... and they fill, not exchange, which is much cheaper.