Help with Ideal Windlass

[Max Simmons]

We have a vertial postitioned Ideal Windlass, original equipment so going on 26 years old.* It works just fine for the most part.* It is the type that only has the abilitiy to raise the anchor, not lower.* You lower it by*using a handle to release the tension on the*gypsy and letting it freewheel out.* The problem is that now when you release (by*unscrewing the top cap) it will not freewheel.* I have looked through the brochure and checked on line, but can't find if and where somthing needs to be lubricated.* Anyone else have this type and experienced same issues?* I'd rather not replace it since*it does fine*raising the anchor.* *

 

[Delfin]

I believe all anchors have a bronze clutch that needs to be lubricated.* Ideal can probably send you the parts diagram, but everyone I have seen has a cap screw or nut at the top of the gypsy or windlass that when removed allows you to pull the whole unit off the shaft.* You may have to knock the clutch free, but that will be your problem.* Use Lubriplate on it - lasts longer and less likely to wash out.* Hope that helps.

 

[Marin]

The original horizontal windlass to our boat, since replaced, had no power out capability either. Deployment speed was regulated with a large, bronze wheel that put pressure on a pair of clutch plates, one bronze and the other a fiber material, that pressed against the outboard surface of the wildcat. It did the same thing you describe to the point where I had to help the chain out even with the brake backed off. Finally I decided to do something about it, and it was a simple matter to remove the brake wheel, clutch plates and wildcat and clean the old, gummed up lubricant from the wildcat and its drive shaft, apply fresh grease, and put the thing back together. That solved the problem.

The new horizontal windlass we installed about three years ago has a different type of brake system.* A small brake wheel applies pressure to a cone clutch rather then flat friction plates like the old windlass had.* It's my understanding that friction plates are not supposed to be lubed, particularly fiber ones, but the manual for our new windlass says the two (metal) surfaces of the cone clutch should receive a very light coating of grease every so often.

I assume the wlidcat on your windlass is turning to let the chain out, it's just not turning very freely.* If so, I would not be surprised if all it needs is either a refresher coat of grease or a cleaning off of old, gummy lubricant and a fresh application of grease.

-- Edited by Marin on Wednesday 14th of April 2010 01:00:18 PM

 

[Max Simmons]

It is the type with the cap on top. I have the original brochure but could not tell how the thing comes apart. I'll do some more exploring next time i'm at the boat.

 

[Marin]

Ideal is still in business (I assume) so you might get the information you need from them directly. You could also try unscrewing the cap or friction control on top of he windlass all the way and see if it comes off, thus releasing the brake and wildcat. I'm not familiar with this windlass so perhaps it's not put together the way I'm envisioning. In any event, I suspect you'll find that it's a relatively simple matter to cure the problem assuming the windlass has not been subjected to some heavy load that's bent something. The fact it retrieves just fine would suggest that's not the case.

 

[Phil Fill]

Our windless gets stick if not used on a regular bases.* So what I do is have no tension on the clutch/wheel so ti can free wheel*and tap the button which bring the anchor tightly up against the *roller/guide which usually frees it using the windless power to un stick it.* Just light tap on the button.* During the year I have not tension on the clutch as somebody will accidently step on the deck button, which cause it to free wheel.

You*might be able to wire so it does power up and down*by *reversing *the poles or have two buttons.* West Marine sells them.*

 

[Delfin]

They're pretty simple.* Just undo the cap nut and the windlass should slide off a keyed shaft.* The key mates up to a bronze cone that is the clutch.* Since it is frozen, you may need to whack the cone loose.* When it comes apart, grease up the cone with Lubriplate, grease the key shaft and reassemble.* If you don't let the windlass freewheel periodically, it will seize up more quickly and require more frequent maintenance, which is why even with a reversing switch, you still want to let gravity do it work once in awhile.

 

[Keith]

It's simple to do and the manual says you need to disassemble and lube once a year. DO NOT lubricate the friction surfaces! There are other parts that need grease, but not those. If you can't find a diagram I could make you a copy of mine, or just send you a text description.

 

[cody707]

Ideal Windless
Ideal windless is alive and well in East Greenwich, Rhode Island.* Email them and they will send you the diagram on how to service your unit.
Carl

 

[Searios]

They're pretty simple.* Just undo the cap nut and the windlass should slide off a keyed shaft.* The key mates up to a bronze cone that is the clutch.* Since it is frozen, you may need to whack the cone loose.* When it comes apart, grease up the cone with Lubriplate, grease the key shaft and reassemble.* If you don't let the windlass freewheel periodically, it will seize up more quickly and require more frequent maintenance, which is why even with a reversing switch, you still want to let gravity do it work once in awhile.

Which Lubriplate product do you recommend??

 

[meridian]

Six year old thread but I just use a waterproof grease, brand unknown.


Sent from my iPhone using Trawler Forum

 

[Searios]

Yeah, but the maintenance info is still valid and I leaned from it. Will need to check what the manufacturer recommends before greasing mine.