Interior Wood Replacement...

[Osprey69]

PO let leaks ruin wood veneer on wall underneath formally leaky ports. Finally getting to cosmetic repair. Need to sister in new veneer. Any advice as to sourcing, and installing? Thanks in advance.

 

[PhilPB]

Not sure of your location but World Panel Products are in Florida and North Carolina. I bought quite a bit of teak from them, both panels and lumber. I believe that they ship also.

 

[motion30]

Following

 

[rgano]

I replaced some smaller bits of teak veneer on my former Grand Banks 42 and watched as a couple of very talented wood butchers built and veneered this bit of furniture for the boat. The key to the smooth expanse of veneer was a smooth plywood surface underneath. Once the veneer had been carefully measured and cut (with an Exacto knife as I recall), yellow contact cement from Home Depot was rolled onto both surfaces with a foam roller and given the requisite drying time before being carefully put together starting at one edge and working across with a dry roller.

 

[Osprey69]

Thanks all. Understanding I need a smooth substrate to lay veneer on, I am leaning on goop to fill very uneven gaps in the substrate, but it seems messy and could go way wrong. Trying to not tear additional woodwork apart...

Thanks in advance.

 

[PhilPB]

If you have basic woodworking skills, along with a jigsaw, circular saw and maybe an oscillating tool, you can buy 1/4" teak, holly, or oak plywood and DIY. It's not too difficult and there are plenty of YouTube videos, personal websites and A LOT of folks on this forum that are more than willing to offer help and tips on your project.

 

[Xlantic]

I find repairing veneer very difficult. Depending on how deteriorated yours is you might consider using wood putty for filling-in as needed and then simply painting over with regular paint.

While I would hesitate at painting furniture or any solid teak I have no compucture with painting over veneered cabin walls. I have done it a few times with good results, and brighter cabins.

 

[Tator]

I would recommend Durham's wood putty as a filler behind any veneer work. It comes as a powder that mixes with water as opposed to a solvent base putty. It's what our furniture repair, refinishing and restoration shop used to fill defects in underlayment before re-veneering. It is cheaper than solvent putties, has a longer shelf life and sands and works better than solvent putties. I can be made thicker or thinner for different applications. I even used it to make some repairs on top of horizontal cedar deck rails that held up in our Seattle area climate for 8 years until the deck was replaced.
Tator

 

[Hippocampus]

My dad collected antique clocks and watches. My mom antique furniture. I’ve built and restored furniture. For us three the go to has been

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For high end stuff where an improper restoration might mean extreme loss of value might take a chip and get it matched. There’s a large variation in wood appearances even within a species. When thinking about a panel where part of it is bad have found often it’s better to replace the whole panel rather than Dutchman in a segment. On a boat you’re not dealing with antiques but there is noticeable differences depending upon where the wood was sourced from. Often less time consuming and get a better results with whole panels.
. In that setting will do initial prep and staining before installation. Also when doing a whole panel measuring and cutting is much easier to get right. It does mean a bit more deconstruction but you more than get the time back as it goes faster.
Fine the hard part is curved surfaces. Also just because it looks like a rectangle doesn’t mean it is. That’s why templates maybe worth the effort. Might do templates rather than measurements. If you do measurements then do top and bottom as well as both sides. Might carefully score the backing to prevent cracking even on mild curves. Might use a sheet of felt, parchment paper and aluminum foil even when dry fitting. Spend a lot of time figuring out clamping and might leave the dry fit in for a day before glue. Constantine can help you out so you have the right equipment as can the internet. It’s a time consuming process to do the prep and can’t be rushed if you want a good result
Also to get a match on final appearance might fully or partially strip the surroundings and refinish the whole area. Your eye is incredibly sensitive to differences in shade depending upon lighting. Lastly don’t do this in a very hot or humid environment. Also read the fine print for every product you use. Although with antiques you try to use original stains and glues but for boats and furniture that’s not necessary. But it is helpful if the manufacturer can tell you what they used. Then it’s easier to get the final appearance to match. Problem is sometimes wood bleaches or darkens. Often Hornsbys is enough to get a match. Often Will finish a small piece of the verneer I’ll use to play with and get a match before doing the repair. This is another reason to do larger areas than just the bad spot.

 

[Turtle Blues]

Stabilized, moisture proofed, smooth substrate is the key.
Proper use of Git Rot or similar for filling and providing solid base for new finish is necessary. For severely damaged underlayment and plywood repair I am using a short strand fiberglass impregnated filler, 3M Bondo is one brand.
Good quality contact adhesive, properly flashed before layup is important and then smooth rolling the veneer. Hard to reach places can be tricky, an extra set of hands is always a plus.
Lots of veneer suppliers on the net. Matching what you have as close as possible is worth the search. I am removing a 20 year old repair that has weathered well but is a completely different wood species and the "stain to match" has faded over time.
Final surface finish and blending to existing is an art in itself. Some superfine steel wool buffing and testing various products will get you close. Good Luck

 

[mgreen]

Rockler has sheets of adhesive teak veneer. I have used for restoration on other projects. Cut with scissors and a utility knife. All good info above. Over demolition is better than not enough demo. The Durham's is good, the rest of the name is Rock Hard and it is. I recall that there is a sweet spot before it is fully cured to remove excess. You may want to experiment a bit. A cheese grater type shaper will work for heavy removal but not after it is fully cured.

 

[PhilPB]

As an example (in a not so great picture), this is using 1/8" teak panel/plywood during my rebuild. It now looks much better after using oil for the finish. I also changed the chart table size recently as that is where the new air conditioner went.

 

[Osprey69]

Wow...thanks to all for comprehensive replies. The Master is an easier fix as we will use a white veneer to brighten that portion of the cabin up. No wood matching there. The forward cabin has a much smaller area albeit with a wood match challenge if we sister in new wood. Hippo is correct (of course) better to replace the whole section but that involves removing trim with bungs and stuff beyond me and I do not want to open that pandoras box until I am sure of a plan A & B.. Perhaps I will bite this one and get a professional.

Thanks again.