More info on the Monk-designed boat we just bought

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Blind Owl

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I've Googled my beans off trying to get complete specs and, with any luck, design particulars of our 37' 1984 Roughwater Express Cruiser. No joy so far, and no joy on the Monk 36 Owners Forum, which is all about a later and quite different boat.

Besides curiosity and a lifelong interest in boat design, the info would help me decide anchor sizes and the holding power needed for a mooring we intend to sink off Mayne Island, our home base.

As always, info and suggestions would be appreciated.
 
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Ha! We had that figured already. A website we respect, run by a couple of seasoned Arctic voyagers, has this recommendation for boat owners who are serious about anchoring. If memory serves, it amounts to: "If you're docked somewhere and you don't overhear the occasional comment from passers-by that your anchor looks too big for the boat's size, you aren't there yet."

My other motive is a lifelong interest in vessel design, specs, lines, and in understanding the whys and wherefors of any particular vessel, and what compromises—since all designs are compromises—were made, and what the aim was. A never-ending source of fascination to me.

Cheers!
 
I always tell people to figure out what size anchor you need and then go bigger as long as your windlass will handle it. Same thing with fenders, go with the largest ones you can store.
 
Select an anchor or range of anchors that interest you, check what the mfr recommends. If you fall between sizes, go up. I think anchor mfrs want to sell you as much anchor as they can, but others will tell you mfrs know zilch, and to just go bigger, and bigger......
As to your mooring, are we talking concrete block restraint? For my IG36, we used a 1000 kg block which stayed where it was put. If possible, use a bridle instead of one line.
 
Besides curiosity and a lifelong interest in boat design, the info would help me decide anchor sizes and the holding power needed for a mooring we intend to sink off Mayne Island, our home base.

Shouldn't be much different than any other boat of similar length, weight, and windage. Make-up of your holding ground probably more of a factor than boat design.

Anyway, check Steve Goodwin's (S/V Panope) anchor test videos on YouTube.

IIRC, his #131 has a decent comparison chart toward the end. And that's probably been superceded by something newer, too...

-Chris
 
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Thanks, ranger58sb.

We've watched quite a few anchor tests/comparisons, and have decided that two anchors are all we'll need on the boat. The Northern voyaging couple I mentioned have a very informative website: Attainable Adventure Cruising. They've trusted Spade anchors for many years, with an aluminum Fortress anchor for backup, lunch hook, etc. Anchor test videos we''ve seen confirm that anchors with roll bars are problematic. We'll go up a size or two with each (above the manufacturers' recommendations).

The private mooring we'll be installing will be similarly oversized. No marginal gear for us!

That should let us sleep soundly at anchor in anything short of a hurricane.
 
I think most of us know that our engine start battery should be fused, but what about the rest of the engine harness. John was shocked to find the answer to that question.
I clicked the link and at the top of the page found the above quoted. Even ABYC agrees NOT to fuse a start battery.

 
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