NT 26 rudder removal

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WillieC2

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Joined
Apr 13, 2023
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9
New owners of a 1988 26, catching up on deferred maintenance.

(New member here. I just figured out how to start a new thread.)

I need to replace the propshaft seal and figure out how to get the rudder shaft to not leak, both jobs involve removing the rudder. What is the trick? It looks like I will also need to remove the AP shaft angle sensor but that looks fairly straightforward.

As to the propeller shaft, I have read of folks cutting a hole in the rudder to accommodate shaft removal. Is this a thing? The rudder looks small enough to need all the metal it can keep so I don't want to muck that up.

Any advice appreciated. Thanks.
 
What type of shaft log is on the prop shaft? If you are not sure post a photo of it and someone will likely recognize it. If you don’t know how to post a photo go to the TF home page and there is a section on How to Use the Forum. In that section there is a sticky post that tells you how to post a photo.

You may not need to pull the rudder to service the shaft log. But you will likely have to slide the prop shaft aft enough to get the coupler off. You may have to take the prop off the shaft to get it to slide back enough. But first we need to know what shaft log you have and then we can recommend how to service it.

As to the rudder leaking at the shaft log, you can probably just repack it or tighten it up some to fix the leak. That would likely not require the rudder removal. Again some photos of the rudder shaft log would be good.

Oh, congrats on your new boat…
 
Thanks, Comodave.

Right now I am deep into the three Yanmar heat exchangers, with cardboard spread out and half my tools all over the place. I will post some pics as soon as I get something accomplished. (Oddly, I have yet to find any anodes on this engine, 4LH-TE. That just seems wrong to me. Fortunately, the HXs are cleaning up nicely with no corrosion.)

The existing shaft seals look like the old school packing style glands, covered with electric green/blue verdigris. I doubt they have been touched since new and I haven't seen it weeping in the five hours we ran it home. Neither did it heat up. It has been suggested to upgrade to a PSS on the prop shaft, which I am familiar with as I had one on the Albin we just sold. Thus, I may need to remove the propshaft completely.

Anyhow, I will post pictures. I agree, they can cut to the chase.
 
Nothing wrong with the traditional shaft logs. If they fail they just start leaking. The dripless shaft logs can fail spectacularly and cause a lot of flooding. And they require more maintenance. I like traditional shaft logs with Duramax packing. After you break it in it can be adjusted so it doesn’t leak. Check it out. We had it in our last boat and it was great. We have a dripless log in our current boat and one needs maintenance. Hoping to get through the summer and do it next winter.
 
Agree, traditional stuffing boxes with good modern packing work quite well.
 
Hi,

find SENTOA web group, which is Nordic tugs boaters. There you can ask questions and find answers in their system.

Here is the link.

SENTOA.org

NBs
 
Hi,

find SENTOA web group, which is Nordic tugs boaters. There you can ask questions and find answers in their system.

Here is the link.

SENTOA.org

NBs

+1 on the NT owners groups. Maintenance is mostly on the southeast group’s site. The factory has records on just about everything and maintenance information. If no joy elsewhere speak with them.
 
NT 26s have a shaft removal hole in the rudder from the factory.
 
Ah, the Spanish orca reference. Got it, though it took me a while. We happened upon a pod that over took us near Whidbey Island a couple summers ago. This was before we had heard of the rudders being ripped off. OK.

Still working on the HXs, I am not ignoring y'all. (One day I may start a thread of how many things never should have been built like this....)

As to the factory hole in the rudder, I am still looking for it. Perhaps this was incorporated in later models, ours is a 1988, I think I mentioned it. Nope, no hole.

Related to the packing glands, which i agree in principle with the old style, with the new twist of packing material. Maybe that is what we have. All the thru-hulls are bright green verdi gris. None are bonded to anything, many are inoperable, most have never been exercised. Same with engine drain cocks in the cooling system. There must be ten or twenty hidden in both the fresh and sea water circuits. Oh, I did find one place for an anode...a large plug just in front of the thermostat already threaded for an anode but nowhere to put one since it would bash into the thermostat. In the coolant circuit no less. Wrong.

Once i get the fourth bolt out of the engine oil cooler cap, the inaccessible one on the bottom of this vertical cooler, (or I decide to remove the whole cooler body from the engine, I would only need to order 30 or 40 more o-rings to put it back together, but I digress...) I will clean the whole mess up and regain access to the shaft log and get a picture or two...wait I may have some old ones on my phone...

Success! Shaft prop seal, rudder shaft seal, and transmission coupling. Advise away! (Note the strategically placed silicon caulk around the base of the rudder seal housing. Nope. Not working. Fortunately, great care was not taken when first slathered. It peels off nicely.)

I am showing the coupling as this will come into play if I have to remove the shaft. There seems to be a tapered pin that hods the whole boat together, unfortunately not shown in my picture. Is the shaft itself tapered into the coupling? along with the tapered pin and 35 years of corrosion holding it in place? I am familiar with the split coupling used on the Old WillieC, Albin 25 we had. How does this assembly come apart? Hard to tell which end is the smaller, but I haven't really tried. I really don't think a big hammer and drift pin are the correct tools. Maybe some kind of homemade press with a threaded rod?

And Sentoa, yes good advice. We may join, but I like free, too. We have spoken with Dave Allen at NT in Burlington and he was not there in 1988, but has been very helpful, nonetheless. He is on speed dial, but may start blocking my calls if I say too much negative about NT here...did i mention the transmission oil cooler core that cannot be removed without removing the transmission from the engine? Actually it runs into the Yanmar motor mount so it is not specifically a NT flaw. Now the inaccessible oil fill under the pilothouse floor...yeah...

And the plated clamps for the shaft log? Sadly stainless steel had not been available in 1988 and besides, once the rubber deteriorates under the rotting clamps, that will need replacement so just do the whole job at once, after you drill a hole in the rudder...
 

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I would rebuild the shaft log with new hose and new 316 S/S T bolt clamps. I like AWAB or ABA clamps. No welds to rust. Wide band and rolled edhes so they don’t cut the hose. Make sure you buy shaft log hose, not just any hose will work.
 
You're correct. I looked back on my photo file of other NT26s. Some have the holes in the rudder, some don't. And some of the holes are covered by zincs.

NT26s are semi-custom. Mine is hull #28 from 1981. I happen to have a hole in my rudder.

Your boat's shaft log and engine access looks nothing like my boat's shaft log and engine access. Even the rudder post is different.

Edit: Just noticed that you have what appears to be a KM5A gear. Do you have one of the few NT26s with the 140hp Yanmar engines?

Sorry I can't be of more help.
 
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Any and all help is appreciated! Now I need to look closer at the anode, I could only be so lucky.

KM5A is correct! We have the 4LH-TE, 110hp at 3300rpm. Way too much but "when you need it..." Turbo Export is the TE. No aftercooler. Plain ole turbo.

Would you have a picture of your rudder handy? Thanks again, Northern Spy.
 
Here is the definitive treatise on traditional stuffing boxes. Apparently both of mine (rudder and propshaft) are Buck Algonquin, though not confirmed.

https://marinehowto.com/re-packing-a-traditional-stuffing-box/

Rod Collins continues to be a wealth of knowledge and practical advice. Many, many thanks for him.

I do have a round anode on my rudder, but I haven't removed it yet since it does not appear to align with the shaft.

HXs are all back together, just need to clean up the engine compartment while I have the added room without the big 'un installed. Still haven't found any anodes on the engine. But no troubling galvanic erosion anywhere. Not a dock queen, but a trailer queen?
 
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Belated update.

Apparently, I may not have had to do anything to the shaft packing. But I would not have known without digging in. It appears to have had the Duramax style packing which concerned me because of the metal content potentially attacking the SS shaft. Nary a mark.

I went back with a teflon impregnated packing and had a devil of a time stuffing it all back in. (I had the same difficulty removing the old stuff. I found only two rings of packing upon removal, which I fully understood when I tried to reinstall the required/recommended three rings.)

I read the posts on calculating the correct size, then I used the suggestion of using a drill bit to verify the correct size, I even consulted Buck Algonquin tables for a 138 shaft seal. 5/16" should be the correct size. But what a beeyotch to install. Maybe it was the saturated teflon goo that swelled the packing on installation, whatever. Not easy by any stretch.

I may have cut the pieces too long, but they sure looked good. Perhaps they should have been cut with a slight gap. I did cut them at 45 degrees with a sharp knife blade, etc..

In the end, I was able to get all three rings inserted and mostly seated, even after making an insertion driver suggested by RC (Marine-How-To). To finish the packing, I resorted to using the threads to seat the packing. After much futzing, I was able to start the thread and gently pull down until I got four good revolutions then I quit. The whole time I was thinking this ain't gonna work. This will bind the shaft and it will overheat and I won't know until I launch it then it will be back to square one and will have to haul it back out...
But, I found I was able to turn the shaft by hand at the coupling with no more resistance than before I started the whole project. I am trying to be optimistic here.

Now I am wading into electrical issues. Starting with getting ACCESS to the batts. Fortunately, the Trojans (2XT105s) have the handy-dandy watering system, but there is no way to use a hydrometer what with the limited overhead clearance, so I have come up with a method to simply, and safely, slide the battery box out. (Did I mention I miss my Albin 25?)

I have plenty to do before May launch and it looks pretty daunting, but I have a heater set up in the boat and I have tunes and I keep pecking away. I have much to peck at.

Looking at my original post and the subject line, Rudder Removal...

All this to say I have NOT needed to remove the rudder to service the driveshaft packing. Not yet, anway. As to the rudder shaft leaking...I will start by gently adjusting the gland. I suspect it has never been adjusted.
 
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