Our new anchor came in today.

[Nomad Willy]

You can get more power (lift) from the tide than winches ect. Just get the bow over the anchor, snug up and wait. Of course you don't have much tide in Florida so it would take longer but worry about extraction would be not.
One should never use the windlass unless the anchor pops out very easily.

As to hurrycane suitability nobody has tested the Vulcan in a proper independant test so nobody knows their performance capabilities. But as to penetration this anchor isn't showing the features for excessive penetration. Doubt if it's going to go "too" deep. Should come out normally.

 

[OldDan1943]

In FL, generally about a bit more than a foot so you are correct, it could take a while to break it loose. By placing the boat at 45 degrees or as much as 180 degrees securing the chain with a separate line and then backing down away from the anchor to break it loose. The strain would not be on the windlass but on the securing line.
If I am wrong, feel free to correct me.
The AT has both a power and up and down windless.
Of course, by loosening the clutch, the anchor can free fall.

 

[High Wire]

We must be the only one to have a Vulcan drag on us. Severe thunderstorm, soft bottom in Oriental NC, 6 ft water depth and 90 ft of 5/16 chain with a snubber. The wind just hammered us while we were yawed sideways. Pulled out but I had the engine running. Dragged maybe 150 ft in less than a minute. Pulled up and reset. This time laid out 105 ft of chain. Thats all I have. Backed down on it to 1500 rpm and held fine. Another TS at 1 am and it pulled out again. Again I had the engine running in case and it saved our butts. Reset a third time. This time once hooked, backed down at 2000 rpm!!! No more TS that night but a good stiff NW wind most of the night. Took about 10 minutes to pull it free in the morning.
2 nights later we had the forecast SW 10-15 with gusts to 20 turned into 20-25 sustained with gusts to 35 kt. The wind swung to NE and came on. Held fine almost all night but pulled out again at 3 am. Windlass and bow roller broke trying to retrieve to move. Called uncle and made for the nearest marina in the morning.
So anchors of whatever type hold great until they don't. Just saying.

 

[Nomad Willy]

Does the Irish Lady have twin engines?

 

[High Wire]

Does the Irish Lady have twin engines?

Negative. Single Perky 135.

 

[Nomad Willy]

High Wire,
Yup .. 2000rpm backdown could be several thousand pounds of tension on the rode. That could very well make it hard to extract but two engines would prolly drag it around or break it out.

I have a sailing problem w Willy probably because we’re light fwd and a bit heavy aft. (Replaced concrete ballast w lead). Every time the bow swaps sides it jerks the rode hard. That could either bury an anchor very deep (if the anchor penetrates well) or break it out.
Having an extraction problem beats having a dragging problem.
Do you have/use a bridal?

 

[FF]

In a location where the anchor really was worked hard , we simply pull the anchor with its trip line attached to the crown with a sliding ball.

Never gets very stick when removed that way.

Also easy lifting when fouled by bottom debris.

 

[OldDan1943]

In a location where the anchor really was worked hard , we simply pull the anchor with its trip line attached to the crown with a sliding ball.

Never gets very stick when removed that way.

Also easy lifting when fouled by bottom debris.

I have heard of the trip line and floating ball but never saw it in action.

 

[Nomad Willy]

I did it 5 or 6 times following Marin Fare’s lead but go tired of it.

 

[High Wire]

High Wire,

Do you have/use a bridal?

Yes.

 

[FF]

"I have heard of the trip line and floating ball but never saw it in action."

The technique is really simple .

A 3/8 line is tied to the crown , lead thru the loop under a small 6 or 8 inch ball , and a sounding lead is used as a weight.

The 3/8 line will be less than 2x the water depth so the ball will be directly above your anchor , the hanging weight will keep it in place.

To depart haul the anchor line till you can grab the 3/8 line pull it aboard and use it to break the anchor loose , or simply haul it up on deck.

With chain the windlass will break out a stuck anchor with the 3/8 line and the windlass gypsy haul the chain and anchor.

Takes more time to explain it , than do it.

 

[Aquabelle]

Manson has the perfect anchor.
Can’t remember what it’s called but a hole is made in the bottom of the boat that the anchor fits into vertically .. like a Danforth w the shank sticking up. The anchor is never seen by anybody unless the boat is hauled and the anchor lowered. The bottom of the anchor becomes flush w the hull bottom when raised essentially becoming part of the hull.

Not sure if you are joking but wasn't it the Mantus that performed by far the worst when it came to re-setting on a tide change, in Steve's video series ?

 

[Aquabelle]

Not sure if you are joking but wasn't it the Mantus that performed by far the worst when it came to re-setting on a tide change, in Steve's video series ?

Oops...confused Manson and Mantus. Don't recall which but in Steve's video series, one of these performed poorly when re-
setting by a current.

 

[Nomad Willy]

Aquablle,
Don’t follow Mantus much.
I’ve purchased, used and extensively modified my Supreme though. Not sure why I didn’t wait till I had more experience w the Supreme in it’s stock forum before I started the mods. Those were the days that I was having troubles w my XYZ anchor. The trouble was setting. But when it did set the setting was rather dramatic. Was kind-of a slam set. Viewed it at the time as sort-of a prelude of good things to come. Comments since on TF by Rocna users gives me the impression that Rocna’s set in a similar way. But re the XYZ good things did come to pass. I anchored firmly and securely through two 50 knot gales w that brand of anchor. Once you’ve gone through two 50 knot gales w a certain brand of undersized anchors you tend to remember that experience. Remembering is one thing but endearment is another. A little endearment may have motivated me to keep that anchor. But the back and forth, up and down .. over and over experiences trying to get the thing to set won over and now that first XYZ anchor sits in a landfill in SE Alaska. But the quite different and later model XYZ is still w me. The second gale I was in was probably more than 50 knots at the top of the storm. The newer XYZ was 18lbs, the original was 13lbs. But at that time I had already modified the 18. I lost the tip/toe of the 18 and the XYZ guy (Draggo) wouldn’t sell me a replacement. So I was faced w throw out the anchor or make a fluke tip. There was a little machine shop close by that made the replacement tip to my drawing. The original was very pointy and my replacement was very blunt ... chisel-like. Something I considered to be “just for mud” and not suited to any other bottom. That’s when we were moving back to Wa. State and I used the oversized chisel tip XYZ much of the time coming down the coast. It set perfectly all the time. The wide tip (3” about) had mud only written all over it IMO but it worked. Theory suggests to me that almost all the anchorage bottoms up and down the inside passage consisted of mud. Quite good mud it seems. Glorious mud.

My theory thinking runs all courses and the XYZ experience was extreme (PI) in that one XYZ set so slowly I was at some times not sure that setting had taken place. And the other set so dramatically I thought I was “set” for anything. My conclusion? No conclusion. Both seem to work just as well. But should I have more experience before making such a claim. ??

Before going on and on (more) we should review Steve’s vids and comments re the resetting. Steve made a huge issue of the resetting in dramatic reversals. My take on the question is more like .. if it sets over and over, time after time normally in one direction the chances of it not resetting on a normal reversal in next to non-existent. An issue that’s not an issue .. IMO.

Aquabelle ...
Do the research and let us know. I refer to Steve’s Anchor Setting Videos fairly often but not being big on reversals don’t recall about the Manson/Mantus relationship on reversals.
Still amazed that long skinny Mantus shank hasn’t produced stories of bending. But re long skinny shanks I’m amazed the all forged high performance genuine Danforth shank dosn’t bend .. more often. I have an old one. The flukes are bent (very little though) but the shank is straight.

 

[Nomad Willy]

High Wire wrote;
“So anchors of whatever type hold great until they don't. Just saying.”

Our long time TF contributor (long gone) Marin Faure said exactly that many times. Just another way of saying there’s no perfect anchor. And not a truer thing has been said.
It was funny coming from Marin because he was the one most convinced that he had the perfect anchor that positively would not ever fail.

Not betting any money on it but .... the Vulcan may have a geometrical result of fluke to shank to rode relationship that results in a horizontal fluke at retrieval time w the boat directly above and a vertical rode. Would be like having a steel plate horizontal in the seafloor w a big eye bolt in the middle .... and your rode shackled to it.

HW I see you’re anchoring at very long scopes.
There is at least one anchor that performs better at moderate scopes like 4-1 to 6-1. I suggest you try anchoring at 4-1 a few times or as long as it works. The old saying of “if some is good more is better” is just a saying. Something that people say that sounds good but is just an often repeated utterance. If you like that try “if B dosn’t work try C”.

 

[diver dave]

yeah, but; what is a laundry boat?

 

[Star0210]

yeah, but; what is a laundry boat?

Glad you asked cause I don’t know either!