I have noticed a fuel leak at the top of the injector pump. It is where the fuel tubing (the one that goes to one of the injectors) attaches to the pump. It seems very tight already so am afraid to try to tighten it further. It has a fairly regular drip.. Any suggestions? Any one with similar problems.. Is it a compression fitting or something special?. Thanks cliff
Perkins 6-3544 fuel leak
- Thread starter cbouch
- Start date
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Pack Mule
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If your sure that’s where it’s leaking , loosen the nut and make sure the line seats properly and doesn’t have a crack . I just replaced my Injection pump and two of the lines didn’t seat just right . I had to tweak the lines a little to make them nest just right . They need to nest in their pocket before tightening the nut .
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jleonard
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Try loosening it a little to let any debris that may be stuck in there escape, then re-tighten. If you do that while it's running, put a rag over the joint cause there will be some pressure.
Those pines have what Perkins calls an "olive" formed into the line. Basically a compression fitting.
It could also be cracked in which case you'll need a new line.
Hope the first thing solves it.
Edit
Sorry "Pack Mule" didn't see your reply while I was writing mine.
Those pines have what Perkins calls an "olive" formed into the line. Basically a compression fitting.
It could also be cracked in which case you'll need a new line.
Hope the first thing solves it.
Edit
Sorry "Pack Mule" didn't see your reply while I was writing mine.
Trawler Sandpiper
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When you sung down the fitting use a flare wrench. You avoid any rounding of the fitting nut.
Will call trans Atlantic and order a new fuel line for that cylinder. I tried loosening it and tighten again with the same outcome. Slow drip...when I tighten it down the wrench sort of stops..not a nice compression if you know what I mean..Ian afraid that I will break something if I do it tighter. Thanks for your help..
Replacing fuel line
Based on the advice that I received in this thread I did call sherry at trans stlantic diesel and have a new fuel line ready to install. I am thinking that I can install the new line leaving the coupling loose at the injector. I believe that the engine will start on the other cylinders because their lines were not disturbed. I will then look for good fuel flow coming out of new line at the injector then tighten it and that cylinder should start to fire.. am I right or do I need to bleed the dydd at them somehow.thanks, cliff
Based on the advice that I received in this thread I did call sherry at trans stlantic diesel and have a new fuel line ready to install. I am thinking that I can install the new line leaving the coupling loose at the injector. I believe that the engine will start on the other cylinders because their lines were not disturbed. I will then look for good fuel flow coming out of new line at the injector then tighten it and that cylinder should start to fire.. am I right or do I need to bleed the dydd at them somehow.thanks, cliff
STB
Guru
What you propose will work fine.
If it were me, I'd leave the injector side loose as you suggest (with a rag around it), zip tie or string tie or have a helper hold the shutoff lever on the pump up, and then bump the starter a few brief times. That'll bleed the line.
From there I'd release the shutoff, tighten the injector, clean up, and start it up. It'll easily take care of any remaining air itself.
I do not recommend holding the shutoff button down in place of mechanically holding the shutoff. Most/many of those shutoff solenoids only have the pull coil wired, not the hold co
So, if theybare held down for too long, they'll burn right out.
To bleed past the pump, you do need to turn the engine over -- you can't do that with the lifter or electric pump alone.
Have fun!
-Greg
If it were me, I'd leave the injector side loose as you suggest (with a rag around it), zip tie or string tie or have a helper hold the shutoff lever on the pump up, and then bump the starter a few brief times. That'll bleed the line.
From there I'd release the shutoff, tighten the injector, clean up, and start it up. It'll easily take care of any remaining air itself.
I do not recommend holding the shutoff button down in place of mechanically holding the shutoff. Most/many of those shutoff solenoids only have the pull coil wired, not the hold co
So, if theybare held down for too long, they'll burn right out.
To bleed past the pump, you do need to turn the engine over -- you can't do that with the lifter or electric pump alone.
Have fun!
-Greg
Greg, thank you for the confirmation on process, however I am a little confused(which is easy to be these days) ref shutting off the fuel flow. When I do that doesn’t it also shut off the fuel to the line that I am trying to bleed and therefore have no fuel present pushing out the air? Thanks. Cliff
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High Wire
Guru
You can just let it start then stop it right away with a clean rag over the injector end. Put it in a plastic bag to minimize the mess. Blowing the line out with an air hose or some spray brake cleaner will work too. Lots of ways to do this.
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STB
Guru
Cliff,
Unless that lever is really, really pulled all the way up, it will let enough fuel through to bleed a line over a few bumps of the starter, but not enough to start the engine in the same few bumps.
Having said that, you can also just forget that part and just bump the starter a small few times and, if it starts, no worries, just stop it and tighten up the line.
Unless that lever is really, really pulled all the way up, it will let enough fuel through to bleed a line over a few bumps of the starter, but not enough to start the engine in the same few bumps.
Having said that, you can also just forget that part and just bump the starter a small few times and, if it starts, no worries, just stop it and tighten up the line.
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