Perkins 6.354M remote start

[WestCoastMcgyver]

As I'm 95+% solo cruising the thought of placing a remote (ER) engine starting switch has surfaced. Thought being if I need to bleed the fuel system would like to do it "on the fly" while cracking bleed ports/injector lines. Looking for ideas how to wire that in or would I just be better to get an alligator clip on starter switch and just turn over the starter while bleeding?

 

[PhilPB]

I have a T6.354. I like the idea of cranking the motor instead of using the tiny manual pump lever under the fuel pump to get the fuel flowing when bleeding the system. I didn't think cranking the motor to bleed the system was ok. Are you saying it is?
Mind you, I'm not criticizing, I still am in the learning curve and I like this idea.

 

[Gdavid]

It would be really simple to wire another switch to the starter solenoid for bleeding the injector lines. That said, I have never needed to bleed the injector lines to start the engine, I have had to bleed the injector pump which is easy to do with the manual lever on the lift pump and backing off the bleeder screw with the 5/16" hex on the injector pump. In my case, it was due to an air leak and the generator and engine sharing a pickup tube. I will address both issues and hopefully avoid the whole issue in the future.

 

[Turtle Blues]

Having spent many pleasurable hours in close proximity to 2 of these beasts in a tight engine compartment my 2c is sit down and enjoy a cold frosty beverage until this thought passes. I can envision so many things going wrong. It's a diesel, if it's cranking, it can start.

 

[PhilPB]

It would be really simple to wire another switch to the starter solenoid for bleeding the injector lines. That said, I have never needed to bleed the injector lines to start the engine, I have had to bleed the injector pump which is easy to do with the manual lever on the lift pump and backing off the bleeder screw with the 5/16" hex on the injector pump. In my case, it was due to an air leak and the generator and engine sharing a pickup tube. I will address both issues and hopefully avoid the whole issue in the future.

My mechanic, while installing the new lift pump recently told me about the bleeder screw. A previous mechanic said he cracked the injector lines. Luckily, I have never needed to bleed the engine yet in almost 3 years but when the time comes I will first open the bleeder screw and manually pump it off the new lift pump

 

[CaptTom]

Agreed. No need to crack the injector lines to bleed these things. Filters and pump only.

 

[Lepke]

When the basic bleeding is done on the injector pump, an easy way to do the injector lines is cracking all the injector nuts after putting rags to catch any fuel. The engine won't start because the pressure will be too reduced to open the injector needle. Turn over under starter power.
Once bled, pick up the rags, clean up any fuel and start the engine.
An electric pump, inline with the lift pump makes bleeding the injector pump easy. Either pump will pull thru the other. Both don't need to be on when running.
To wire a starter button in the engineroom, you connect a momentary button switch to the back of the starter solenoid, between the terminal where the battery cable is attached and the small terminal. If you have a solenoid separate from the starter, and easy way is replace it with a solenoid with a manual button.

 

[Barking Sands]

You might check to see if you have a manual button on the solenoid. It took me a year before I accidentally bumped it and found out I had one..lol.

 

[PhilPB]

You might check to see if you have a manual button on the solenoid. It took me a year before I accidentally bumped it and found out I had one..lol.

Or a screwdriver across the posts!