Perkins T6.354 Oil Change Question

[PhilPB]

This is a little embarrassing, but in the past I've paid someone else to do some things and oil change was one of them. I am now going to tackle it myself. I have the oil and filter but I have a few rather stupid questions that I should have already known.

1983 Perkins T6.354 165hp

Since my filter is vertical and mounted top facing down do I have to fill the new filter with oil before install?
If so, how to do it without making an incredible mess?

I suspect removing the old filter will also create a mess...how do I accomplish that as well?

I know, I should already know this but I don’t.

 

[mvweebles]

A 1-gallon Ziploc bag around the filter as you loosen it will contain 98% of the oil. Keep a roll of paper towels handy.

Filling the new filter cartridge is mildly preferred, but not really necessary. Pressure comes up within 10 seconds of the engine starting. Long before any wear takes place.

Peter

 

[jgwinks]

With the filter mounted upside down all the oil should drain back into the block on shutdown. There shouldn't be much in there but try to put a bucket or at least some rags underneath when you take it off. Mine are right side up which is actually messier, there's a quart of oil in the canister that will start draining out as soon as the bolt is loosened. I have to put a bucket under it, then dispose of the old oil in the bucket. There's no way to prefill the upside down filter, you put it together empty and it will fill when you start the engine. It does that every time you stop and start the engine. Don't forget to smear clean oil on the gasket before assembly.

 

[Mainship Pilot]

Hummm, An oil filter mounted screw hole facing down, that's an interesting design! Seems counterintuitive to the filtration process.

 

[Grupet]

No mess

The Perkins 6354 in my Mainship 34 had the same filter arrangement. As jgwinks points out, once shut down, the oil all drains out of the filter. Minimal oil spilled when changing the filter. Not sure if the filter is designed to be operated inverted, but that's how mine was.

 

[jgwinks]

Right. My filters are "right side up" with the filter head on top and canister on the bottom. I put a one gallon paint mix bucket under and as soon as I start loosening the bolt oil starts to run out. The first time I did it the whole canister fell into the bucket with a big splash, got oil everywhere, mostly all over me. I wish mine were inverted.

 

[High Wire]

If you warm the engine before doing the oil change, the filter will still be full when you remove it. The filter has an anti-drainback valve inside which will hold the oil there for a while but not normally overnight. Prestage an empty bucket next to the filter and an oil sorbent sheet the best you can under the filter. Spin the filter off fast and into the bucket flange side up. Rehearse the moves. Yes some will escape. Big spills happen when you miss the bucket or knock it over or go too slow. No, don't try to prefill the new filter. That will be even a bigger mess! There are thousands of Perkins engines with thousands of hours with this filter arrangement in the world. Its not a wear issue.

 

[jgwinks]

The one I really hate are where the filter sticks straight out the side of the engine. Only half the oil drains back so the other half is just waiting to spill out. A ziplock bag held under the filter does help. My sailboat engines and several cars I had were like that.

 

[PhilPB]

I think it went successfully. I first visited West Marine and purchased the 6.9 qt extractor, then warmed the engine up for about 15 minutes and then pulled a little more than 9qts out and the filter had quite a bit in it as well, as it was quite a bit heavier than the empty new one I installed. I then put in about 10qts. I put the extractor lines in both dipstick tubes until all I had left was air and both dipsticks came out dry after reinstalling them before adding oil. Since before I paid the mechanic $200 to do the oil change after I bought all materials, I feel I came out ahead and ready for the next time.

 

[High Wire]

Your engine doesn’t have the installed manual oil change pump next to the injection pump?

 

[Action]

Coaxing the oil out of the filter mounted with he opening down, can be had by punching a hole in the metal filter that is facing up.
It allows some air into the filter to aid in drain back.
However as stated above, there is an anti-drain back valve that will prevent a full drain to dry.
The hole just helps a little to make just a little less mess.

Mercruiser uses this type arrangement in some applications as well.

 

[PhilPB]

Your engine doesn’t have the installed manual oil change pump next to the injection pump?

Nope.

 

[High Wire]

Nuts. I thought they all had it. Guess it was an option.

 

[PhilPB]

Nuts. I thought they all had it. Guess it was an option.

After reading a few folk's use of the onboard pump, I do wish I had it. Next oil change I will remove the lower dipstick tube on the starboard side and see if I extract more oil than I did this time. I've read that these engines had different oil capacities, possibly different oil pan configurations?

 

[Mlm2]

On mine, after warming up the engine oil, I take a screwdriver and punch a hole in the oil filter. This helps the oil drain faster back into the pan. By the time I have the oil pumped out , the filter is empty and can be removed with very little mess. My perkins has the manual extractor oil pump.

 

[88FuHwa]

Oil Filter for Perkins 6.354

Get the Napa Model # 1459. It has an incorporated check valve so your oil will not drain out when you remove it.
I am also surprised that you don't have that pump to remove the oil. I was under the impression all of those Perkins engines were equipped with them. Did the previous owner remove it?

 

[PhilPB]

I used NAPA 1773, which cross references to Perkins 2654407. Both mechanics I've used for oil changes used the 1773.

Also using the advice to warm the engine up did leave a lot of oil in the old filter, I'd say at least 1/2 qt or more. It didn’t pour out all over the place when removed either.

If anyone can take a picture of the onboard oil extractor I'd appreciate it!

 

[Trawlerman]

FWIW my T6-354 engines (one normal and one counter-rotating) are not fitted with any on-engine oil change pumps. My engines actually take 11 quarts each after an oil change to be full. The oil sump kind of "sticks out" at the bottom of the engine and has an easily removable kind of bolt with gasket. This is rather nice as it allows me to get to the very back of the oil sump as it is tilted back along with the engine to align with the prop shaft. The basic engine takes 10 quarts, but the additional is due to the amount of the plumbing to the remote location of the filter assembly. On my engines this is near the aft end of the engine on the port side. I have an old mechanics tool box with a gear pump installed, driven by a 12 volt cord with a DC plug on the end, and two lengths of tubing. On of course goes into the empty 5 gallon bucket I have, and the other end goes into the hole left by the removal of the "bolt" on the sump and it is pretty easy to feel it snub up against the back end of the sump lowest point. My filters are canister down, so I insert a couple of absorbent pads into a plastic zip-lock bag, pull it up around the filter just after jabbing a hole in the filter, and letting it drain while i work on vacuuming out all the old oil. This info is for engines:

[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]Port Engine:[/FONT][FONT=Arial, sans-serif] [/FONT][FONT=Arial, sans-serif]TE20696U545523E (normal rotating)[/FONT]​

[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]Stbd Engine:[/FONT][FONT=Arial, sans-serif] [/FONT][FONT=Arial, sans-serif]TE20572UX559949E (counter rotating)[/FONT]​

 

[Capt Dan]

Drain plug

I always change the oil hot.

If you drive a couple holes (with screwdriver)in the dome end of the inverted filter BEFORE you pump the oil out it will have just a couple drips left in it.

Also, there is a drain plug near the base of the filter. Use it.

I don't see any way you could get a Ziploc bag under this configuration. It is hard enough to get a small 1 cup yoghurt container under the drain plug.

 

[PhilPB]

I always change the oil hot.

If you drive a couple holes (with screwdriver)in the dome end of the inverted filter BEFORE you pump the oil out it will have just a couple drips left in it.

Also, there is a drain plug near the base of the filter. Use it.

I don't see any way you could get a Ziploc bag under this configuration. It is hard enough to get a small 1 cup yoghurt container under the drain plug.

That hand pump looks like a great ideka, wish it came on my motor. I figured if I missed it, a picture would help. I definitely would have noted if I had one. Where your pump is located I have 2 fuel filters kind of in the way.

 

[Nepidae]

Oil change

We have Ford Lehman 135's in our boat. They have inverted oil filters.

The easiest way to change them is with a screwdriver.

Take the screwdriver and punch a hole in the inverted bottom of the filter.

That will allow air to enter and the oil in the filter will drain back into the engine. Wait a min or 2 and then twist the filter off. Have a rag handy to cover the regular opening with what little is left.

When you are ready to put the new filter in place, take a little oil on your finger and rub that around the rubber seal then hand tighten the filter. It will refill when you start your engine.

The hardest part is using a pump to get the oil out of the engine, usually thru the dipstick opening.

FL has a hose with an end that replaces to the drain plug in the engine pan. Special end so no leak at the end of the hose. IF this is connected to the pump to remove the oil the change will go quickly without drips. Well worth the investment.

Any questions, PM me.

 

[High Wire]

It would be mounted between the injection pump and the secondary fuel filters if you have one.
Your vacuum tank rig should do just as good of a job.