I'm going to apply epoxy to a wood piece then primer and paint.Spray paint would not be my first choice for waterproofing wood. I would actually use epoxy to seal it and then paint over the epoxy to protect the epoxy from UV and to make it look nice.
I typically do one side at a time. 24 hours apart.
Is it possible the tacky you feel is just amine blush? I know west system must be washed before sanding or recoating.
How to paint it? A primer then a top coat, then the sealant 4200 essentially bonds just the top coat to the roof. If the top coat or the primer bubbles up, does the bond fail at once?I’d prime with zinsser (spelling?) or other solvent based primer. Just a light coat will do it.
It’ll help keep it from peeling or flaking.
depends on what you mean by bubbling. if it's just tiny bubbles from brushing it shouldn't be an issue. if it's bigger ones, you should have wiped it all off when still wet and tried again. if big bubbles have dried, sand smooth and try again. i forget what the project was, are you using 4200 to bond it to the overhead? not sure what you mean by "roof"How to paint it? A primer then a top coat, then the sealant 4200 essentially bonds just the top coat to the roof. If the top coat or the primer bubbles up, does the bond fail at once?
When I use 2 part epoxy to coat & seal wood I use at least a 2 step process.
First coat is thinned resin w/o hardener ( to get better penetration being thinned and not curing quickly)
2nd coat is normal mix of 2 part epoxy with additional coats optional depending on exposure and level of seal desired.
I was taught this approach by an old friend that built cedar strip canoes and was his approach before covering with glass and epoxy to get the clear impermeable coating.
These blocks are used as bases for mounting backup cameras. I want to glue them to the corner areas of the sundeck rooftop.depends on what you mean by bubbling. if it's just tiny bubbles from brushing it shouldn't be an issue. if it's bigger ones, you should have wiped it all off when still wet and tried again. if big bubbles have dried, sand smooth and try again. i forget what the project was, are you using 4200 to bond it to the overhead? not sure what you mean by "roof"
If I put them in the sundeck and leave the heater on, do they dry thoroughly after 7 days?I see. I’d let them dry thoroughly, then sand smooth and top coat with a good glossy paint. No need to top coat the side that is glued to the overhead.
It’s all about how nice you want them to look. A coat of smooth glossy paint is easier to clean and maintain than a primer coat, and just looks more finished.
That should do it, but it also depends on humidity. If they don’t sand well and the paint balls up you can try wet sanding. I always use sanding blocks, even on small parts. It keeps the surface flat. Sand the flat surfaces with a block, then use your paper without the block to get the corners. After wet sanding, be sure to dry thoroughly before top coating.If I put them in the sundeck and leave the heater on, do they dry thoroughly after 7 days?
Sanding manually feels slow. I always use a multi tool with a sanding attachment to speed up the process. Is multi tool great for this purpose?That should do it, but it also depends on humidity. If they don’t sand well and the paint balls up you can try wet sanding. I always use sanding blocks, even on small parts. It keeps the surface flat. Sand the flat surfaces with a block, then use your paper without the block to get the corners. After wet sanding, be sure to dry thoroughly before top coating.
I don’t use a multi tool for sanding. I like the control of a sanding block. I did auto body work for decades though, and hand sanding is fast for me because I choose my materials carefully.
You’re certainly welcome to choose whatever method you want, I’m sure a multi tool will sand it. I’d be careful not to gouge it with an edge.