Questions about (pros and cons)4/53 Detroit Diesels

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NUTIN FANCY TOO

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 10, 2020
Messages
56
Vessel Name
NUTIN FANCY TOO
Vessel Make
1969,42ft Grand Banks. Hull #125
Hello from 42FT hull #125.
My Grand old lady came with a pair of 4/53 Detroits. I have had "some" experience with Detroits, being a retired musician ,3 of the tour busses I've had was equipped with them. Two had 6/71s,and one with the 8v53(318).
But,having one(or two)on a boat is,I'm sure, a different story.
Other than being EXTREMELY loud,can anyone tell me what to look for? They have approximately 4500 hours each on them,and fire right up on the 1st spin.
TIA
 
Hello from 42FT hull #125.
My Grand old lady came with a pair of 4/53 Detroits. I have had "some" experience with Detroits, being a retired musician ,3 of the tour busses I've had was equipped with them. Two had 6/71s,and one with the 8v53(318).
But,having one(or two)on a boat is,I'm sure, a different story.
Other than being EXTREMELY loud,can anyone tell me what to look for? They have approximately 4500 hours each on them,and fire right up on the 1st spin.
TIA

Some love Detroits, some hate them. I like them (and own 2). Clean fuel, clean oil/filter, clean air and don't overheat them. Once in a while give the rack a tune up and after that run them, hard enough but not too hard, and don't worry about them.
 
The pro’s, cheap, reliable, parts and mechanics are readily available.

The con’s, loud, potential to become leaky.

Some would add fuel efficiency but I think that would be insignificant in your HP range.

I have nothing bad to say about the 4-53.
 
Some love Detroits, some hate them. I like them (and own 2). Clean fuel, clean oil/filter, clean air and don't overheat them. Once in a while give the rack a tune up and after that run them, hard enough but not too hard, and don't worry about them.
Agreed with all of the above. The best way to "suck a sleeve" is the get one hot. Also,I've found, as have many
1. Don't let them idle to low,they tend to dump(really dump)oil.
2. If there is no oil under them......there is none in them.lol
I also have had a blower shaft strip out on one of my busses. Not fun.
 
They don't call them "Screaming Green Leakers" for nothing

pete
 
they don't call them "screaming green leakers" for nothing

pete
��������������
 
Good one, Pete. I've heard of Screaming Jimmies but never Green Leakers. Although my 871's were white leakers.:D
 
Hello from 42FT hull #125.
My Grand old lady came with a pair of 4/53 Detroits. I have had "some" experience with Detroits, being a retired musician ,3 of the tour busses I've had was equipped with them. Two had 6/71s,and one with the 8v53(318).
But,having one(or two)on a boat is,I'm sure, a different story.
Other than being EXTREMELY loud,can anyone tell me what to look for? They have approximately 4500 hours each on them,and fire right up on the 1st spin.
TIA

Detroits
Leak
Noisy
Smoke like a mofo on startup
Simple to maintain
Easy to rebuild in the boat (wet sleeve)
No electronics to fail
Run forever (if not over turbocharged naturals are best)
Pick your poison!

Do an oil analysis
Have inspection ports you can use a camera to inspect cylinders
If they pass survey run em!
 
We had 6V53s in a previous boat. I also called them Screaming Green Leakers. I would just buy all the diapers that West Marine had in stock because I would end up using them. And they were loud. BUT, they just ran and ran. And any mechanic could work on them. And parts were cheap though I didn’t really buy many parts because they just ran and ran. Overall I liked them.
 
I've run Detroits in boats since 1961, and generators before that. I wouldn't have anything else on the ocean for reliability. I ran 6v53s and all manner of 71s in the navy. My first boat was twin 671s and my current boat (probably my last) boat has twin 671. The blocks are from 1947, never overhauled until I did it a few years ago. Parts were no problem.

There's a lot of used parts on ebay. It's a good time to pick up spare pumps, etc. I go to remote places, so carry a lot of spares. Although I've never had a failure with the current boat. Keep the fuel clean and the injectors will last longer. I haven't changed one since the engines were overhauled, about 10 years. Some years I put on 500 hours.
Don't let the average marina mechanic work on Detroits. Better to learn yourself.

I'll be running Detroits until they take the starter buttons from my cold dead hands.
 
Totally agree

I've run Detroits in boats since 1961, and generators before that. I wouldn't have anything else on the ocean for reliability. I ran 6v53s and all manner of 71s in the navy. My first boat was twin 671s and my current boat (probably my last) boat has twin 671. The blocks are from 1947, never overhauled until I did it a few years ago. Parts were no problem.

There's a lot of used parts on ebay. It's a good time to pick up spare pumps, etc. I go to remote places, so carry a lot of spares. Although I've never had a failure with the current boat. Keep the fuel clean and the injectors will last longer. I haven't changed one since the engines were overhauled, about 10 years. Some years I put on 500 hours.
Don't let the average marina mechanic work on Detroits. Better to learn yourself.

I'll be running Detroits until they take the starter buttons from my cold dead hands.

Leaky? Yup. Loud? Yup. Reliable? Omg yup. In my humble opinion, after 30+ years on ships of all sizes, the /53, /92 and especially the /71s are without a doubt some of the most rugged and dependable engines ever made. So simple! I’ve had them on a variety of smaller boats as mains and generators, without a single major failure. And there’s a reason why every ship I’ve ever worked on had a Detroit Diesel (8v92s and 6-71s mainly) for the emergency generator: the start, they run forever. I also agree that it’s easy enough to work on them yourself.
Two very important thing2, though: In today’s world of desulfured diesel, you really need to watch out for injectors. These new fuels have terrible lubricity and have caused major problems on ships. If you can figure out an arrangement, I’d look to putting in some sort of pre-lube pump system. That way you don’t have to rely on Fuel pressure coming up as the engine starts. On EDG units they often fit a hydraulic accumulator that stores oil pressure for start-up, this minimizing wear. So when I say “pre-lube” I’m referring to something to get fuel circulating, not lube oil. Although, it’s always a good idea to have some sort of pre lube oil system too, on any engine.
Second, if you ever do need to replace an injector, MAKE CERTAIN that the fuel supply and return lines go on perfectly. On Detroit’s, these number lines cross over the top of the valve train at each cylinder, so if they or the rocker arms are not on correctly, you’ll snap the jumpers. Then you’re going to bleed fuel into the sump and burn up everything with ruined lube oil. This is especially true on versions that have 4 exhaust valves instead 2, as the bridge between the valves can easily bash into the jumpers if not seated correctly. (Don’t ask me how I know hehe)
Other than long-winded stuff, these things have literally been known to be bullet-proof - provided you have clean oil, clean fuel and decent cooling.
 
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I filter my fuel with 2 micron elements. And I use a fuel treatment that adds a lubricant in the fuel system. I haven't changed an injector in 10 years. Some years 500+ hours.
Detroits cycle fuel many times. They pump 5-10x more fuel than burn. Having it clean stops a lot of the flow erosion in metal parts.
I use Archoil AR6200 and some of their other products. 6200 was recently reformulated to have more lubricity. It also improves fuel burn, giving better mileage, dissolves sludge, reduces soot, etc. archoil.com
 

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Was wondering about something. My old Gray Marine 6-71s generated about 16.3 hp/gal-hr from my calculations. However, the more recent Jimmies output about 18.3 hp/gal-hr. Is the difference due to the newer 4 valve heads as opposed to my old heads with 2 valves?
 
Excellent advice

I filter my fuel with 2 micron elements. And I use a fuel treatment that adds a lubricant in the fuel system. I haven't changed an injector in 10 years. Some years 500+ hours.
Detroits cycle fuel many times. They pump 5-10x more fuel than burn. Having it clean stops a lot of the flow erosion in metal parts.
I use Archoil AR6200 and some of their other products. 6200 was recently reformulated to have more lubricity. It also improves fuel burn, giving better mileage, dissolves sludge, reduces soot, etc. archoil.com

Good to know, Lepke! Been wondering about appropriate additives, considering my Lehman’s are “ancient.”
 
Was wondering about something. My old Gray Marine 6-71s generated about 16.3 hp/gal-hr from my calculations. However, the more recent Jimmies output about 18.3 hp/gal-hr. Is the difference due to the newer 4 valve heads as opposed to my old heads with 2 valves?

There are so many variations of these things: 2V/4V heads, compression ratios, liner port height, injector size and timing, cam timing, etc. Add into that the engine could be operated anywhere on its performance map. Sometimes they are pretty good, usually at lower rpm and power setting, some of the highly wrung out TI/TA versions at high power are pretty sucky.

I'd say 15-18hp/gph is typical, but each engine could get the high or get the low depending on where it is operating.

At lower power settings the 2V do fine. At high revs the parasitic losses from driving the blower can really eat some efficiency.
 
What is the ‘blower’ you refer to? I’m looking at a Chris-craft with 8v53 motors.
 
Never mind, just googled and found the answer. (Blower used to enhance exhaust gas scavenging, not to pressurize intake air).
 
Never mind, just googled and found the answer. (Blower used to enhance exhaust gas scavenging, not to pressurize intake air).

Not exactly. The blower is used to push fresh air into the cylinders on every stroke. The block has a built in airbox into which the blower's output is directed. When the piston reaches the bottom of it's stroke, intake ports in the cylinder wall are exposed to the air box, all the exhaust valves are opened and fresh air pushes the exhaust out the valves while also filling the cylinder with fresh air for the next cycle.

Without a blower the engine will not run, it's not an enhancement, but a standard part of it's operation.
 

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