Raritan SeaEra Installation Issue

[Tcheairs]

Issue is alignment of the SeaEra (straight 1 1/2") outlet fitting to my sanitation hose. The SeaEra outlet needs to be raised at least an inch for a level (or slightly downhill) alignment with my flexible coupler to my Forespar marelon Y valve inlet. This is not a "plug and play" conversion from a Crown Head (as advertised). I am not able to adjust the location of the Y valve and connections to the sanitation hoses. So, I guess I'm faced with "shimming up" the height of the SeaEra with a with 3/4" plywood base (or more) to raise the level of the discharge fitting to align with the Y valve input barb fitting. I would like to have the connection to the discharge hose be a "downstream" connection so that I don't have waste material collecting and remaining against the joker valve.

Does anyone know of a flexible hose solution (flexible sanitation hose Is not flexible enough) to make a 45 degree bend, outlet fitting to Y valve? Auto heater hose etc.? Lower radiator hose?

Finally, I'd like to know if my old Crown Head assembly has any value. It is complete with parts but inoperative.

Thanks in advance for ideas..

 

[Bmarler]

Would a pvc fitting work? With short straight hoses to connect it?
If not, the only hose I think might work would be a silicone hose. You can get them pre formed.

 

[Bmarler]

Another thought, there are some sanitation hoses that can be heated and formed with a heat gun. Not the Saniflex hose, but the ones that are more like plastic. Sealand odor safe comes to mind.

 

[HeadMistress]

Issue is alignment of the SeaEra (straight 1 1/2") outlet fitting to my sanitation hose. The SeaEra outlet needs to be raised at least an inch for a level (or slightly downhill) alignment with my flexible coupler to my Forespar marelon Y valve inlet. This is not a "plug and play" conversion from a Crown Head (as advertised). I am not able to adjust the location of the Y valve and connections to the sanitation hoses. So, I guess I'm faced with "shimming up" the height of the SeaEra with a with 3/4" plywood base (or more) to raise the level of the discharge fitting to align with the Y valve input barb fitting. I would like to have the connection to the discharge hose be a "downstream" connection so that I don't have waste material collecting and remaining against the joker valve.

Does anyone know of a flexible hose solution (flexible sanitation hose Is not flexible enough) to make a 45 degree bend, outlet fitting to Y valve? Auto heater hose etc.? Lower radiator hose?

Finally, I'd like to know if my old Crown Head assembly has any value. It is complete with parts but inoperative.

Thanks in advance for ideas..

I just replied to your PM.

--Peggie

 

[Tcheairs]

Oops, solved the bowl separation problem, The nylon washers were actually threaded onto the studs. Unscrewed them and the bowl separated easily (with some careful flat head screwdriver help breaking the seal".

 

[Tcheairs]

Got a short 45 degree bend piece of silicone hose. Hopefully that will work. If not that, a 45 degree barbed fitting might be the answer. I'm building a 2" elevated base to mount the toilet on to avoid flushing "uphill". Be aware, from Crown head to SeaEra head is nowhere near "plug and play" as advertised by some dealers.