Raw Water Pump change questions

[BDofMSP]

Some basic questions here, but hey that's how you learn right?

Earlier this year I noticed a small drip from my starboard raw water pump, from the intake elbow connection to the pump. I pulled out a wrench to see whether it was tight (it was) but the head of the bolt snapped off. It looked great from the outside but inside it was completely corroded (attached).

I recently replaced the port pump with the Starboard Marine version, so figured I might as well do this one too. They have been backordered for months, but it finally arrived today. Hence the basic questions:

1. Should I put a bit of silicone grease on the o-ring before I put it in the elbow?
2. Should I put permatex blue on the bolts attaching the flange/elbow to the pump? Rectorseal? Or just tighten them?
3. I usually use Rectorseal on hoses before fitting them on things. Is that adequate for the raw water intake hose? Or is there something else that should be used?

Access is good and removal was simple so I'm hoping it should be straightforward. Would prefer to only do it once though! Any other tips are welcome.

Thanks,
BD

 

[Comodave]

Some basic questions here, but hey that's how you learn right?

Earlier this year I noticed a small drip from my starboard raw water pump, from the intake elbow connection to the pump. I pulled out a wrench to see whether it was tight (it was) but the head of the bolt snapped off. It looked great from the outside but inside it was completely corroded (attached).

I recently replaced the port pump with the Starboard Marine version, so figured I might as well do this one too. They have been backordered for months, but it finally arrived today. Hence the basic questions:

1. Should I put a bit of silicone grease on the o-ring before I put it in the elbow?
2. Should I put permatex blue on the bolts attaching the flange/elbow to the pump? Rectorseal? Or just tighten them?
3. I usually use Rectorseal on hoses before fitting them on things. Is that adequate for the raw water intake hose? Or is there something else that should be used?

Access is good and removal was simple so I'm hoping it should be straightforward. Would prefer to only do it once though! Any other tips are welcome.

Thanks,
BD

We put the Seaboard Marine sea water pumps on over the winter. We did use silicone grease on the O rings. We just tightened the bolts. And nothing on the hoses.

 

[BDofMSP]

Thanks. I didn't get anything right away so I decided to go to the (decidedly less reliable) "rest of the internet". I got basically the same answers except for the repeated references to Tony Athens saying to always use Rectorseal on a hose elbow, so I did.

Easy install, and at least in the slip, no leaks. Thanks for the reply.

They seem like great pumps. Glad I did the swap.

BD

 

[Comodave]

I know that Tony says to use it but I didn’t have any handy…

 

[twistedtree]

I got basically the same answers except for the repeated references to Tony Athens saying to always use Rectorseal on a hose elbow, so I did.

I suspect that is referring to the threads on an elbow, not the barbed end.

 

[BDofMSP]

Actually, no. Here's a couple quotes from his site:

RECTORSEAL #5 (AKA “Yellow ****” in my shop) for all hose connections that run at surface temps that are at or below the temperature of the valve cover or coolant tank on your engine after is warmed / stable

Use YELLOW #5 on all water hose connections… slippery to get the hose on at first, and then it will “set” and keep the hose from any annoying leaks…

RECTORSEAL #5————————-Nothing comes close and I have tried them all for 33 yrs now when I first realized that something needed to go on pipes, barbs, etc when you put a hose over it and then clamp it.. Temps need to be under 250F -ish

BD

 

[lwarden]

I use Rector seal on hose connections now. I think it helps with wicking of water between the hose and bronze surface of the nipple and slows down the corrosion there and potential seeping. Makes sense to me so I'm doing it. Also have the black version of Rector seal which looks a little better than the yellow stuff.

 

[C lectric]

I have for years now used Rectorseal #5 on hose connections, both the hose ID and the barb it is going on. Read Tonys' recommendations.
If there is any sign of dirt I lightly wire brush the barb AND the hose ID and then wipe them thoroughly. Any dirt or debris on either side of the connection can cause weeps, minor but weeps.
The Rector also helps with hose adjustments for fit and then later will set up more and hold the hose. NOT GLUE IT.

 

[twistedtree]

Actually, no. Here's a couple quotes from his site:






BD

Well, OK.

 

[ronobrien]

We put the Seaboard Marine sea water pumps on over the winter. We did use silicone grease on the O rings. We just tightened the bolts. And nothing on the hoses.

Rectorseal is a brand name with several different products. My familiarity with them is as pipe dope. I'm not familiar with Rectorseal for other applications. A trick I learned in my days as a diesel mechanic was to apply "High Tack" to the inside of hoses being sealed with hose clamps. This aided in slipping the hoses onto the fittings and would set to a very sticky consistency which helped with sealing and adhering the hose/fitting connection. Running a cotter pin hook in between the hose and fitting helps in breaking the seal to remove hoses.