Refrigeration at anchor and underway

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Thanks Phil, that seems like a viable option too.

I do remember you and your wife Karen. You still plan on relocating to Burlington?
 
"If your alternator is a single V-belt, it can only handle about 80 amps and it will wear through belts faster as you are approaching this limit."

I have been using a 5/8 Gates Green Stripe single belt powering my 150 amp alternators for thousands of hours and 16 years. I normally pull 120 amps at cruising rpms for probably an average of 3 hours. I'm still on my original belt and it's looking fine.
Tator

My mistake, I went to look it up and accidentally looked up the nominal spec for 3/8".
 
I have a 3.2 cf reefer/freezer which looks identical to yours. I put mine on a Kill-a-watt meter in 80 degree ambient temperatures. In 24 hours mine used just better than 60 amps.

Add to this a pair of small muffin fans costing .75ah hourly (only utilized when sun was shining on that side of boat... 4 hours or so daily.

My cabinet is open so at the back I had one muffin fan blowing at the motor and another pulling hot air out of the back of that cabinet section.

For the record, if the wind is not blowing (I do have an air breeze wind genny) I have a switch to turn off the reefer at night when it will not be opened. Also I do have the temperature alarms set up for both units so I will be alerted if my system fails/inside Temps get too high.

Wiring: from panel to gfci outlet near my sink. From gfci to an on/off switch feeding a second outlet. That outlet is where I plug in the refrigerator/freezer. The premise I that if something blows being able to pop the gfci is easy as it is so accessible. The outlet deep in my locker is for looks. The switch makes shutting down the reefer easy without opening the door to do that.
 
Isolated battery hookup

Charlie, simplified 2-battery isolated system I have used.
 

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Janice, thanks for your numbers. I will not add an outlet the back of my refer cabinet, I was going to and now understand why it was plugged into the outlet in the cabinet below the sink.

Phil, thanks for the drawing, I like visuals. I like the simplicity of your system.
 
Al, are you charging both your start battery and house batteries at the same time while underway off your alternator? Your method seems somewhat what I was thinking in my mind.

I do have a 20 amp Charles battery charger mounted for charging when plugged into shore power.


Yes - the original alternator. I replace the belt every 10 years or so.



We probably have the same Charles battery charger. After 28 years the starting battery side of the charger has bit the bullet. They just don't make them like they used to. Oh wait. This IS what they used to make.


This is system is stock, simple and works. Only the inverter is a new fancy bit and that is 22 years old. It is mounted in the cabinet under the sink where it's 2 built in outlets are convenient.



With this setup we did the little loop. Once we had to rely on batteries for 3 days in Confederation Basin Marina in Kingston, On. The inverter was screaming when we made coffee and toast on the third day but starting was no problem with a dedicated battery. Alternator and charger brought everything up to snuff after a day of running and a night at a powered lock station.
 
If your alternator is belt driven,, you could switch to a DUVAC alternator and charge two battery banks simultaneously and still keep them isolated
( Dual Voltage Automatic Control) These alternators can also charge two different voltages at once..>>>Dan
 
I converted all my old 120v Grunert refrigeration to the new 12v Danfoss units in the old boxes. They seem to run for days without any impact on my 8D house battery. You can not hear them running.

We also take a portable 120/12 frig/freezer sometimes. It usually rides in the car plugged into the cigarette lighter. Great for steaks, gumbo's, etc. We never leave food on the boat.

Do a little research. Your current frig might take 12vdc.
 
I would look into solar before considering more batteries, etc. In my case, yes the engine charges the batteries underway more than enough for refrigeration, etc. But if you run for a couple hours and then spend a couple days at anchor, that's where you need most of your power generation. If you don't want to run a generator or engine while at anchor a few 100 watts of solar power should keep things charged and running. Just calculate your normal power usage and size the system accordingly. Solar is not very expensive these days, but it will work w/o any motors running, even when you are not on the boat.
 
Just re-reading your thread, you definitely should start by separating house and start batteries. If you have a thruster or 2, those could probably run from the start batteries too. Then use house for lighting, fridge, instruments, etc and possibly an inverter if needed. Then add solar if your house bank doesn't hold up long enough at anchor. Much better than having to run your main engine (or even a generator) at anchor.
 
Just re-reading your thread, you definitely should start by separating house and start batteries. If you have a thruster or 2, those could probably run from the start batteries too. Then use house for lighting, fridge, instruments, etc and possibly an inverter if needed. Then add solar if your house bank doesn't hold up long enough at anchor. Much better than having to run your main engine (or even a generator) at anchor.

The one given on this project is that I will do a separate house bank with alternator charging underway and battery charger on shore power to start with. From there I haven't made any concrete decisions yet. -- 12v fridge or 110v with inverter. Will add solar in the future.

No thrusters, gas stove. We are not a power hungry boat at this time.
 
The one given on this project is that I will do a separate house bank with alternator charging underway and battery charger on shore power to start with. From there I haven't made any concrete decisions yet. -- 12v fridge or 110v with inverter. Will add solar in the future.

No thrusters, gas stove. We are not a power hungry boat at this time.

A amarine fridge that can run on 120 or 12V makes most sense so you don't need an inverter. It will run on 120V from shore power and 12V at anchor. Once you do that, you'll know wheteher you have enough battery for your house loads and if not need solar or a genny. My 2 banks are connected to the alternateor through an ACR so motor will charge either or both banks as needed but draw is separated unless I puposely combine them if needed such as having a run down start.

Something like this

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Sys...ocphy=9003386&hvtargid=pla-489561841438&psc=1
 
A amarine fridge that can run on 120 or 12V makes most sense so you don't need an inverter.


The one big downside to going that route is the extremely high cost of marine fridges.
 
What I am not seeing are numbers. What is the ALT's output? What is the size of the house bank in amp hours? How long do you want to run the fridge from a inverter? What is the static amp load when running your boat?

If my numbers are right the fridge is pulling 11 amps from the batteries running off an inverter not counting a loss. Which is not bad at all!
 
The one big downside to going that route is the extremely high cost of marine fridges.

While marine fridges are more expensive, in the scheme of boating equipment I'm not sure I'd call them "extremely high cost" considering the convenience of dual voltage and not having to buy, install, and run an inverter all the time. A good ice chest is the least expensive and lowest battery draw of them all.
 
What I am not seeing are numbers. What is the ALT's output? What is the size of the house bank in amp hours? How long do you want to run the fridge from a inverter? What is the static amp load when running your boat?

If my numbers are right the fridge is pulling 11 amps from the batteries running off an inverter not counting a loss. Which is not bad at all!

Probably add another amp for inverter loss. 12 amps doesn't sound too bad, but it adds up if you are anchor for a weekend. Even w/o a lot of loads you probably have 12v lighting including anchor lights, possibly a stereo running at times, water pump, electric head, instrumentation, vhf, windlass, etc. Personally I would not skimp on house capacity. Even if you have the genny or engine to recharge, it's nice if you dont HAVE to often. Also, some devices will not run as well once battery voltages drops much below 12V even if the batteries still have capacity do deliver.
 
What I am not seeing are numbers. What is the ALT's output? What is the size of the house bank in amp hours? How long do you want to run the fridge from a inverter? What is the static amp load when running your boat?

If my numbers are right the fridge is pulling 11 amps from the batteries running off an inverter not counting a loss. Which is not bad at all!

Iggy, I sorely am not a numbers guy, anyway I was\am planning around a 400 amp hr. bank, most likely fla or agm. Alternator is whatever is the standard for Lehmans, nothing fancy.. 24hrs on the bank without recharging would suit our use profile well.

I am still open to equipment suggestions, my biggest limitation is available space for the fridge.
 
In a 25 foot trailerable pilot house cruiser, (and other boats before) I had two chest type 120/12 volt freezer/refrigerator units. They have varied in size from 37 to 104 quart size (37 qt=1.2 cu ft;50 qt=1.6 cu ft; 75 qt=2.5 cu ft, & 104qt=3.5 cu. ft.). I have put these on roller drawer guides and behind cabinet doors, with extra foam board insulation. I have used them in the open of a cabin, or in an enclosed area of a cockpit. The 104 quart unit had separate top loading sections for freezer and refrigerator. Brands have included ARB, Norcold, Engle, Dometic and Whytner. The cheapies were sometimes better than the most costly.

I kept two 100 amp hour Battle Born LiFePO4 batteries, charged drawing 30 amps from the starting battery (group 24) of an outboard motor, thru either a "Sterling" or "Victron" battery to battery charger. (These are available in up to 60 amps[or more]). I monitored with a Victron 702 (can use just the stent as Weebles noted) and used a 2000 watt 80 amp mains charger and 50 amp 120 mains power boost) Victron 2000/80/50 Multiplus inverter charger. This 200 amp hour system easily ran 2 chest refer./freezers, a microwave and an induction burner for cooking. I kept it separate from the house battery system (2 group 31 AGM batteries). Usable power is about 180 amp hours.

As an experiment, I used a Renogy 100 amp hour LiFePO4 battery, a chinese copy of Victron 702 ($35)-(Renorgy available @ $61), a Victron 18 amp hr DC to DC converter, and 600 watt Chinese inverter, with 10 amp 120 V mains charger for the Li battery. I have been using this in my SUV for 3 years, including several transcontinental trips, carrying my frozen diet for several weeks, or keeping frozen / refer. food from the grocery store. So far this "budget" kit works as well as the twice as expensive components I used on the boat. I am using a "Black Forrest" 37 (1.2 cu ft) by Waco, which I got on sale from Defender for $200.

On my long distance cruising boats I used eutectic holding plate, top loading systems: up to 12 cu foot on both freezer and refrigerator (6" closed cell foam insulation). Even in the tropics 1 to 2 hours of engine or generator time twice a day keep the units at appropriate temperature. (Main engine had a compressor, and the generator or mains power drove a separate 3/4 HP water cooled compressor when the main engine was not running).
 
I have not read this whole thread so I may be missing something. We installed an Isotherm CR271 refer in our boat last summer. So far it has been excellent for cooling. We have always had to run a boat refer on the max setting in order to keep if cooling well. This one goes from 0-8 for cooling. We started it on 8 since that was what we always did with boat refers, but it froze stuff in the refer section. As time went by we kept settling it lower and lower until we got to 3. We found that it kept frozen stuff well frozen and the refer section as cool as we wanted it. We are extremely happy with this refer. I have not checked power consumption since we don’t care what it draws as long as it cools well.
 
Iggy, I sorely am not a numbers guy, anyway I was\am planning around a 400 amp hr. bank, most likely fla or agm. Alternator is whatever is the standard for Lehmans, nothing fancy.. 24hrs on the bank without recharging would suit our use profile well.

I am still open to equipment suggestions, my biggest limitation is available space for the fridge.


I get it! But you don't want to be away and find your house bank dead the next morning. At 400Ah, AGMs give you about 250 amps before recharging. Flooded about 200A before recharging. Now lets say your boat is pulling 12A for 24hrs. Granted the fridge is going to cycle but we have other things on too. 12A for 24 hours is 288A. Your batteries would be are very close to dead. It goes back to what backinblue mentions.

If you went with lithium batteries, you could pull around 300A to 325A before recharging. But that's for another day!

With a 70A ALT, and if your pulling 20 amps just running you engine. Leaving 50A free, it would take almost 6hrs to bring your house bank to a full charge. This is were a genset could be useful running a large charger.

Underway, my boat pulling 25 to 30 amps. The stock ALT on my boat was 70A and a past owner installed a 120A one. So charging both house and starting banks takes less time. I use the genset a lot to recharge my house using a 3000W chrager/inverter with 90A of charging. I have to run it anyways to make hot water. You may want to look into a charger/inverter.
 
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I have not read this whole thread so I may be missing something. We installed an Isotherm CR271 refer in our boat last summer. So far it has been excellent for cooling. We have always had to run a boat refer on the max setting in order to keep if cooling well. This one goes from 0-8 for cooling. We started it on 8 since that was what we always did with boat refers, but it froze stuff in the refer section. As time went by we kept settling it lower and lower until we got to 3. We found that it kept frozen stuff well frozen and the refer section as cool as we wanted it. We are extremely happy with this refer. I have not checked power consumption since we don’t care what it draws as long as it cools well.

I found one of these easy and useful for finding the right setting. Also helps tell me when I need to defrost, although it's pretty obvious anyway.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005KDEFNK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
I get it! But you don't want to be away and find your house bank dead the next morning. At 400Ah, AGMs give you about 250 amps before recharging. Flooded about 200A before recharging. Now lets say your boat is pulling 12A for 24hrs. Granted the fridge is going to cycle but we have other things on too. 12A for 24 hours is 288A. Your batteries would be are very close to dead.


FWIW, with an all-electric galley, we don't find it onerous to recharge twice/day. Coinciding with meal times. Heat water at the same time.

The AGMs charge acceptance rate is decent, so an hour or maybe two twice/day keeps them reasonably high throughout.

-Chris
 
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