Remote oil filter line leak

[cosmo]

I have remote oil filter lines which originate from the block. I am experiencing an annoying leak from one of the lines that connects to the block. The leak is coming from the metal nut to elbow. Assuming the elbow is flared inside the nut?

How does oil sneak past? Is there an internal O ring in/on the flare that has gone bad? The nut won’t seem to tighten as it looks like a point is butt up against the bottom hose, nut.

Hope my crude pics describe it better.

 

[dhays]

No help from me I am a terrible mechanic. I just wish you luck.

 

[av8r]

If the larger nut can’t be tightened correctly the fitting will leak. The larger leaking line may be an up-sized replacement hose using an extended flare nipple to accommodate the larger flare nut. One option would be to replace the long flare nipple with a longer one so the flare nuts don’t interfere. If it is a JIC 37 fitting there are 3 lengths readily available, check discounthydraulichose.com. If it is an AN or Japanese fitting you might have to get creative with fittings and nipples.
Another option would be to replace the hose and fittings with the smaller size, a hydraulic shop could build you a new one and provide the correct fittings.

 

[cosmo]

Thank you

 

[O C Diver]

Not sure how mechanical you are. If it were me, I would take a deep socket (from a socket and ratchet set) and cut away about a third with a Dremel tool, die grinder, or 4" grinder. You basically need to slide the socket over the tube, tighten the nut, and keep repeating the process until tight. You will have to reset the socket after each 1/6 or 1/12 of a rotation. While I prefer 6 point sockets, in this case, a 12 point socket may be required because of the tight area and size of the tube.

Ted

 

[Bmarler]

What a crappy design. It’s hard to tell, but it looks like there’s an adapter on the top fitting that’s probably supposed to extend the top fitting outward enough to enable tightening the fitting without fouling on the bottom one.
You might be able to get a longer adapter to push it out a little further so you get properly tighten it.
The hardest part will be identifying what type of flare it is.
Alternatively, The block is probably regular pipe thread, so maybe a male/female pipe adapter? Then you might be able to just reuse the adapter you already have.

 

[Mac2]

Looks like a JIC fitting, which is flared and sealed by the inside flare of the nut-pressure is what creates the seal. For a temporary fix, they sell copper washers, that are slightly curved, designed just for JIC fittings. The copper is soft and when you tighten the fitting, they will squash down to create a seal.