? Replace Vacuflush, ?remove direct overboard discharge

[ksanders]

In my opinion it’s less about the brand of hardware you have and more about maintainability. Vacuflush and Raritan are both excellent products and I am a experienced customer of each.

That said if you cannot get to it to maintain it, then it’s going to be a problem.

* As far as your plumbing I see zero reason to complicate your system with a wye valve between the heads and the holding tank. I would make a straight run from the heads to the holding tank and eliminate the wye valve.

* As far as the Vacuflush units, if you cannot get to them for maintenance then either move or remove them. Again, a system that you cannot reach for maintenance is unacceptable. Vacuflush units are easy to maintain if you can reach them, and a real bugger if you cannot. Just like anything else on a boat.

* As others have indicated hoses are maintenance items. Replacement time can be used to uncomplicate your system, but I would be careful not to “scope creep” this into a bigger than necessary job.

* in my opinion one of the handiest upgrades you can do is to install a treatment system in between the discharge pump and the sea cock. You can then use a Raritan Hold N Treat controller to automate the treatment/discharge process. Of course this only makes sense if your cruising grounds allow treated waste discharge.

 

[ranger58sb]

One of the issues with rigid PVC is adapting it to 1.5" hose. On the boat I built, I used 1 1/4 schedule 80 clear PVC. The ends can be turned to take 1.5 hose, then you can heat bend it to a decently tight radius. It is clear so you can see what's going through . You can also watch the hard deposit buildup form. Couple of examples:

Why Schedule 80?

Could you have used plain ol' white 1¼" Schedule 40 to do the same thing (except for the visibility factor)?

-Chris

 

[DDW]

Why Schedule 80?

Could you have used plain ol' white 1¼" Schedule 40 to do the same thing (except for the visibility factor)?

-Chris

Not easily. Standard pipe sizes are uniform on outside dimension (which is why fittings will work with any schedule of pipe). The schedule 80 has a thicker wall, and therefore a smaller inside diameter. 1 1/4 pipe is around 1.660 OD, you can turn it down to 1.5 if the wall is thick enough to have anything left. On sch 40 that's dodgy.

Schedule 80 grey PVC is readily available at big box and home improvement stores, but I found that it was more difficult to heat bend, picky about temperature and tore more easily on tight radii. I settled on the clear stuff from McMaster, it bent nicely (you have to put a spring inside while you bend it and get the temperature right, a little trial and error is all that takes). The see through was just a bonus . Use clear fittings with it and clear PVC glue, otherwise the joints look unaesthetic - and yes that is important in your waste plumbing! While some codes require primer, that is mainly to combat indifferent contractor assembly. Clean and lightly abrade the joints before gluing and they will be reliably tight.

 

[O C Diver]

Yes, and I see you having lots more maintenance with the VFs. The electric heads, well, just press a button. If, and when, somethings goes awry, access to the mechanicals is as easy as one could hope on the back side of the bowl. No "regular" service required. No disassembly of the poop parts when service is required. To me, that alone is reason enough to opt for the electric head.

Now, not to impune anyone who is a fan of VF heads, but, after reading many threads concerning operation, repair, and maintenance, I have gotten the distinct impression that VF owners are frequently defending all of its worts, that they really, really aren't all that bad.

You're mistaken, I do preventive maintenance not maintenance. I also doubt that I'll spend the cost of 2 new heads in the PM parts I'll buy throughout the ownership of my boat.
Finally, it's quite clear that most of the problems expressed were lousy installations by the builder, not an issue with the product.

Ted

 

[ranger58sb]

Not easily. Standard pipe sizes are uniform on outside dimension (which is why fittings will work with any schedule of pipe). The schedule 80 has a thicker wall, and therefore a smaller inside diameter. 1 1/4 pipe is around 1.660 OD, you can turn it down to 1.5 if the wall is thick enough to have anything left. On sch 40 that's dodgy.

Schedule 80 grey PVC is readily available at big box and home improvement stores, but I found that it was more difficult to heat bend, picky about temperature and tore more easily on tight radii. I settled on the clear stuff from McMaster, it bent nicely (you have to put a spring inside while you bend it and get the temperature right, a little trial and error is all that takes). The see through was just a bonus . Use clear fittings with it and clear PVC glue, otherwise the joints look unaesthetic - and yes that is important in your waste plumbing! While some codes require primer, that is mainly to combat indifferent contractor assembly. Clean and lightly abrade the joints before gluing and they will be reliably tight.

Thanks. Before your picture post, I hadn't realized there even was a Schedule 80, nor did I know there are clear options, and I thought PVC couldn't be bent!

And then reading about Schedule 80 after that suggested the thicker sidewalls would increase exterior diameter, not reduce interior diameter.

So thanks for the education!

I've been assuming an easy way to reduce pipe to hose -- easier than turning? -- is by just using an adapter like this: https://www.environmentalmarine.com/custom-hose-adapter-341513/

??

-Chris

 

[FF]

WE have threaded SKD 80 by simply dropping a wooden plug in so the thread cutting tool can not distort the pipe.

With Hayward true union valves it makes a great repairable waste or bilge pumping system.

I detest waste pumps as they always seem unreliable so would include a way to flood the pump , hose or pail, to get it pumping without taking anything apart , .

 

[OldDan1943]

IMO, do away with the overboard filter. IF you over fill the holding tank and the filter gets wet, it stops working and may not be able to vent the tank. Plus, I never thought a filter was necessary. The vent is outside the boat so let it stink outside the boat.

 

[sean9c]

I always thought the 1-1/2" pvc to 1-1/2" hose adapters that Sealand sells makes it awfully easy

 

[OldDan1943]

In the line between the head and the tank and the tank to the over board, never put in a 90. It is far far better to use a 45. A 90 really messes with the transfer flow.

I had head problems on my N46 for years until I replaced the 90 with the 45.... everything zipped down the pipe with great ease. LOL

 

[DDW]

The barb adapters work if you have the space for them, and the space for the 1 1/2 PVC. In a compact installation, you can fit more in with bent 1 1/4, turning the ends to fit. It is a more time consuming process though.

 

[Fighterpilot]

vacuflush

Just bought a boat with vacuflush. Old system, 1986 boat, probably original install. Nothing works. Wye valve handle gone. When turn the switch on for head, pops back off. Water drawn into the toilet leaks away. I too, am considering changing systems rather than trying to figure this one out and fix it. As I read about the system I am inclined to replace it.



Also, the poster that had the Satan Kittens VF191 patches for sale. Didn't realize they were so valuable. I was a Satan Kitten figherpilot-1966 to 1968 in the Tonkin Gulf. Will dig out that patch as well as the others from that era and make sure my survivors know about them. Thanks.

 

[Trawlerman]

Our countertops are all granite and have been trouble free since installation in 2008 just prior to taking off on our Great Loop. Just recently took this photo for a friend showing our newly installed induction cooktop that replaced our propane cooktop. We love this also.

 

[HeadMistress]

Your countertop is lovely, but unless there have been some very recent major changes marine toilet technology that have escaped my notice, I think your post landed in the wrong thread.


--Peggie

 

[clyde]

i would throw the macerator pumps away! they are really junk! always use the vacuflush brand hose, thetford i think. they make an overboard holding tank pump, with only 2 duck bills! the vacume pump has 3 or 4 duckbills, to hold the vacume...clyde

 

[Mako]

Just recently took this photo for a friend showing our newly installed induction cooktop that replaced our propane cooktop.

How well does it run for you off the inverter? Ever measure the actual energy draw?

 

[OldDan1943]

How well does it run for you off the inverter? Ever measure the actual energy draw?

Doesn't require 220vt?