Replaced fuel tanks
- Thread starter Giggitoni
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Giggitoni
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...and if the tanks do leak, how does one get to them for a fix/replacement?
Donsan
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Hasn't Hatteras used integrated tanks for 30-50 years now?
motion30
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I cut out the port tank in my 44 chung waa 2 weeks ago. I30 gal app 1/8" thick. Took about 4 hrs and many saw blades. Went easier than I thought but still took me two or three days to recover. But of course I am 59
FYI: Some of the early Krogen 42's have intriegal fuel tanks. I believe they changed to steel when they went into the big production years.
The water tanks are integral fiberglass on the Krogen 42's and there have been some failures. Repairs usually meant going through either the head floor or 2nd stateroom floor by removing the teak parquet, the plywood subfloor and then cutting open the tanks and repairing from the inside.
The water tanks are integral fiberglass on the Krogen 42's and there have been some failures. Repairs usually meant going through either the head floor or 2nd stateroom floor by removing the teak parquet, the plywood subfloor and then cutting open the tanks and repairing from the inside.
Spottsville
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Giggitoni we both know anything can leak, given the right chain of events or circumstances. For me, it's about how to lower the likelihood of failure, and to date I don't believe any GH failures have occurred (hence my comfort).
(I'm probably jinxed now and I'll be the first)......[face in hands]
If I have to someday deal with it, this thread has had useful ideas and pictures of the project.
Thanks
Norm
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Giggitoni
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Norm,
I hope you're right and never have to address your tanks. I like to say that having to replace tanks in any of our boats is like playing musical chairs...at my party when the music stopped, I was the one still standing!
I hope you're right and never have to address your tanks. I like to say that having to replace tanks in any of our boats is like playing musical chairs...at my party when the music stopped, I was the one still standing!
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EVELYN B
Member
Just about to remove my tanks, 2 x 300 gal. and replace them with aluminum, 4 x 150 gal. The G.B. 42 Classic is located in Port Charlotte, on the Gulf Coast of Florida. Any suggestions on who to call to have the new tanks manufactured and installed.
FoxtrotCharlie
Guru
If all of these old iron/steel tanks are so strong and hard to cut out, doesn't it make sense to try to seal/repair them in place?? I know some may be rotted out on the bottom,or top, but most just leak in corners or seams - just seems like a lot of good iron in all of the old photos in this thread 
kurt.reynolds
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Are you removing the tanks yourself?
I would talk to Vince at American Tanks.
619-253-7035
Can’t help on the installation but RDS Manufacturing made our ABYC compliant custom tanks. No complaints other than they’re busy. They’re in Perry, FL so somewhat close.
Custom Marine Fuel Tanks
kurt.reynolds
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Just a side note, my stbd fuel tank started leaking about a month ago, now I have to figure out what to do... 1982 GB Motoryacht.
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Datenight
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[just seems like a lot of good iron in all of the old photos in this thread [/QUOTE]
I was lucky on the old boat. The tanks were relatively easy to get out of the laz. When I took them to the guy who was going to build new ones he said the same thing! He cut out the bad and welded in new metal, and added another clean out to the top.
My total cost less my labor was under $800.00. The tanks were sand blasted, repaired and new pickups/returns for engine, generator and fuel polishing and a second 14" clean out plate for each tank. Three coats of epoxy primer and three coats of white epoxy paint.
First photo shows tanks after blastin. You can see the fuel seepage on the right tank at top.
Second shot ready to install. Thanks to my brother in law for helping seal the inspection ports.
Rob
[/QUOTE]I was lucky on the old boat. The tanks were relatively easy to get out of the laz. When I took them to the guy who was going to build new ones he said the same thing! He cut out the bad and welded in new metal, and added another clean out to the top.
My total cost less my labor was under $800.00. The tanks were sand blasted, repaired and new pickups/returns for engine, generator and fuel polishing and a second 14" clean out plate for each tank. Three coats of epoxy primer and three coats of white epoxy paint.
First photo shows tanks after blastin. You can see the fuel seepage on the right tank at top.
Second shot ready to install. Thanks to my brother in law for helping seal the inspection ports.
Rob
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Wxx3
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If all of these old iron/steel tanks are so strong and hard to cut out, doesn't it make sense to try to seal/repair them in place?? I know some may be rotted out on the bottom,or top, but most just leak in corners or seams - just seems like a lot of good iron in all of the old photos in this thread
yep. My port tank was leaking at the welded seam.
Sealant did the trick.
VJameslanza
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Evelyn B, where are you in Charlotte Harbor? I'm in Punta Gorda, and have been toying with the idea of removing my aging steel tanks, and would like to talk with you about it.
Jim Lanza
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Jim Lanza
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If all of these old iron/steel tanks are so strong and hard to cut out, doesn't it make sense to try to seal/repair them in place?? I know some may be rotted out on the bottom,or top, but most just leak in corners or seams - just seems like a lot of good iron in all of the old photos in this thread
I was lucky with my tank failure since it wasn't structural so that's what I did on my ~10 yr old aluminum tanks. The thread is here.
http://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s32/diesel-fuel-tank-sealant-36019.html
FF
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IF fuel tanks are not leaking , after a heavy rain take a look to make sure they are dry , top and bottom.
EVELYN B
Member
I'm at Charlotte Harbor Boat Yards. I'm currently in Mass. But will be onboard on Feb 19th.You can call me any time on my cell at 617-688-7101. Happy to share any info. I can provide.
Hugh Tulk
kurt.reynolds
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yep. My port tank was leaking at the welded seam.
Sealant did the trick.
Would love to know where mine is leaking, can't imagine how I would figure it out. No way to get under the tank, and only inspection port is really blocked by baffles inside to really see what is going on.
-kurt
Greatlaker221
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EVELYN B
Member
replacing fuel tanks F.Y.I
I am in the process of replacing my 2x 300 gal. iron fuel tanks on board my 1988 G.B. 42" classic. I didn't have any fuel leaks but 3 people who had come on board to look at the boat, and perhaps make an offer for her, indicated that the tanks would have to be replaced. This was due to apparent rust on the exterior of the tanks and the current wisdom that the tanks would normally deteriorate to the point where they would require replacement....I had my starboard tank cut up and removed. This was the worst of the two tanks. On inspection I found no rust on any part of the interior and started thinking that perhaps they didn't need replacing after all. I took off all the rust with a steel brush and used a micrometer to the determine the thickness of the remaining metal. The worst loss was .0015" I did some research and found a surveyor who did Ultra Sonic testing for the Coast Guard. He tested both tanks and determined a minimum thickness of .1869" The original gauge was 3/16 or.1875/. I had the tank pressure tested to 5 PSI for 2hrs. It passed 100%. Saved $12,000. and I have peace of mind. Good for another 30 yrs.
I am in the process of replacing my 2x 300 gal. iron fuel tanks on board my 1988 G.B. 42" classic. I didn't have any fuel leaks but 3 people who had come on board to look at the boat, and perhaps make an offer for her, indicated that the tanks would have to be replaced. This was due to apparent rust on the exterior of the tanks and the current wisdom that the tanks would normally deteriorate to the point where they would require replacement....I had my starboard tank cut up and removed. This was the worst of the two tanks. On inspection I found no rust on any part of the interior and started thinking that perhaps they didn't need replacing after all. I took off all the rust with a steel brush and used a micrometer to the determine the thickness of the remaining metal. The worst loss was .0015" I did some research and found a surveyor who did Ultra Sonic testing for the Coast Guard. He tested both tanks and determined a minimum thickness of .1869" The original gauge was 3/16 or.1875/. I had the tank pressure tested to 5 PSI for 2hrs. It passed 100%. Saved $12,000. and I have peace of mind. Good for another 30 yrs.
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“I did some research and found a surveyor who did Ultra Sonic testing for the Coast Guard.”
Do you have name / contact info? I have a GB 36 and the tanks appear to be in good shape. Would like to have them surveyed / tested.
Do you have name / contact info? I have a GB 36 and the tanks appear to be in good shape. Would like to have them surveyed / tested.
EVELYN B
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Yes but they are in central west coast of Florida. Is that convenient?
Cigatoo
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Wish I could say that it is convenient but I am still stuck up here in the Northeast. I saw the Massachusetts address and thought you had the tanks tested up here.
Thanks for the response.
EVELYN B
Member
I guess I knew that they are mild steel. I was so excited about not having to tear out the port side tank I got my metals mixed up. Thanks for reminding me.
jungpeter
Guru
Hi EVELEYN B,
How the heck did your surveyor access your in-place fuel tank for ultrasound? Although it's been years since I've been in the engine room of a GB42, seems to me that, while the inboard sides of the fuel tanks may (after removing the sound insulation) be accessible for ultrasound, the balance of the tank is not.
Unless you've got a custom tank install, which includes man-sized access holes in every baffled compartment of the tank, and the tank is cleaned and accessed from the interior, it seems highly unlikely that the surveyor could asses anything but one or two walls of the tank. And a successful ultrasound for a mild steel tank still begs the question of corner weld condition, water intrusion on the exterior of the tanks, and resultant rust-through that's REAL hard to inspect visually with the tanks in-situ.
Not trying to be a naysayer here, and I'm glad your surveyor gave you a warm-fuzzy for additional life in that existing tank. Personally, I'd have replaced 'em both at the same time, and reluctantly swallowed the $12K. Your future buyer may agree.
Regards,
Pete
How the heck did your surveyor access your in-place fuel tank for ultrasound? Although it's been years since I've been in the engine room of a GB42, seems to me that, while the inboard sides of the fuel tanks may (after removing the sound insulation) be accessible for ultrasound, the balance of the tank is not.
Unless you've got a custom tank install, which includes man-sized access holes in every baffled compartment of the tank, and the tank is cleaned and accessed from the interior, it seems highly unlikely that the surveyor could asses anything but one or two walls of the tank. And a successful ultrasound for a mild steel tank still begs the question of corner weld condition, water intrusion on the exterior of the tanks, and resultant rust-through that's REAL hard to inspect visually with the tanks in-situ.
Not trying to be a naysayer here, and I'm glad your surveyor gave you a warm-fuzzy for additional life in that existing tank. Personally, I'd have replaced 'em both at the same time, and reluctantly swallowed the $12K. Your future buyer may agree.
Regards,
Pete
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It makes no sense to replace a tank because at some time in the future it might leak. The engines might wear out one day,should they be replaced too?
FF
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"The engines might wear out one day,should they be replaced too?"
And the constant worry of pollyestermites!
And the constant worry of pollyestermites!
EVELYN B
Member
Thank you for your input. For brevity I did not include all of the steps taken. It is an ultra sonic test that determines the thickness of metals in a non destructive way. It is true that we didn't have complete access to the aft wall and some of the bottom of the tank. There is no insulation to remove it is outboard of the tanks. We had total access to the top, front, forward and outer port side and took multiple readings including welds. We removed all the fuel and cleaned both tanks. Remember we had previously removed the starboard tank (the one which appeared to have the most corrosion) and found nothing to indicate any points of concern. This tank had to be cut up for removal and we had total access inside and out. There are no absolutes in boating but we can cut the possibilities to a minimum by making conclusions based on available facts. As a boater I do this every time I leave the dock. I did the homework, I hired professionals and made a decision. Time may prove me wrong but I fully expect that these tanks will still be here long after I am not.
