Replacing Bluewater 40 Pilot House Windows

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syjos

Guru
Commercial Member
Joined
Nov 8, 2012
Messages
2,330
Location
Port Orchard, WA
Vessel Name
Sandpiper
Vessel Make
Bluewater 40 Pilothouse Trawler
It's been 4 years since I did a major project on Sandpiper, a 40' Bluewater Pilothouse Trawler.

One of the rear pilothouse windows had wood rot at the bottom and the other windows glass were cracked. The wood rot under the windows was repaired during the Pilothouse Roof Replacement Project finished in 2020. Bluewater 40 Pilothouse Roof Replacement

The windows frames are constructed from wood and a portion of the frame on the inside was rotted and repairing it would be difficult.

Replacing the cracked glass would involve dismantling the wood frame, which I did not want to do.

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Ooh, following… are you just starting this?
I was lucky with mine, the PO replaced all the windows with aluminum framed ones.
 
I decided to remove the windows and replace them with aluminum windows.

Before cutting the windows out, visqueen was placed on the inside of the PH to confine the dust in a smaller area. A dust collector was attached to one of the windows to suck the dust out of the confined space. Once the first windows was cut out, the dust collector was placed in the cutout to continue sucking the dust out.
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Bmarler, you are lucky. I've been procrastinating windows replacement for 24 years and Sandpiper had other issues more immediate. I had waterproofed the windows after purchase and rotted wood was not affecting my use of the boat.

Had I replaced the windows in 2000, the cost of the windows would have been significantly less.
 
Before cutting out the windows, the small protruding lip around the exterior of the frame was removed with a chisel so that the base of the saw had a flat surface to rest on.

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The windows were cut out with a jig saw and Sawzall.

Openings covered with visqueen until next week when plywood will be spliced into the openings.
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Very good work as usual. I’ve read your other threads about the pilothouse roof and other repairs/upgrades. First class.
I find that oscillating tools have been indispensable on the boat. I have tons of cutting tools, but the oscillating tool is a must have. Plunge, rip, scarf. Takes practice to master, but worth the time.
Btw, I saw your boat on channel 5 the other morning. They show marina web cams and sandpiper was front and center. Don’t remember where you were, but there wasn’t any one else on the dock.
 
Thanks Bmarler, I agree that an oscillating tool is indispensable. I've had a Fein corded Multitool since the 90's when it was the only one available. Back then, they were in the $400 range with attachments. Now with their patent expired, there are many to choose from, corded and cordless and in the $100 range. Plus the replacement blades also came down in price significantly.

I initially bought the Multimaster for detail sanding and didn't use the sawing accessories that came with it. Once I started using the sawing blades, I was hooked.
 
Bmarler, Sandpiper was docked at the Des Moines Yacht Club last weekend. Took it to DMYC to attend the "Monster Bash" Halloween party. The weather was crappy and no one else came by boat.

In addition to belonging to the Port Orchard Yacht Club, where Sandpiper is moored, I've been a member of DMYC for 35 years and will become a "Full Life" member in January, which means no more monthly membership fees! Wood hoo!
 
I knew the dock looked familiar. We go there (des moines, not the yacht club) for opening day of crab season, and it’s a good place to fuel up.
Congrats on becoming lifetime member, that’s no small thing. We have good friends in the Seattle yacht club on the same trajectory. Kinda wish I’d done something similar, but it’s too late now.
 
Trial fitting 3/4" plywood to fill opening. Pic1

Drilled 4" holes in the plywood with hole saw for connecting dust collector. And precoated the plywood with epoxy focusing on saturating the ends Pic 2

I will be butt joining the plywood to the opening instead of scarfing or half laps. In this application a butt joint is sufficient since it's not a walking surface nor stressed.

Precoating insures that the epoxy penetrates deep into the plywood strengthening the joint.
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Scrap particleboard covered with visqueen screwed to the inside of the windows opening to serve as a backing to insure that the filler plywood is flush with the inside surface and something to screw into.

Plywood screwed to the backing after System Three Gel Magic adhesive was applied to the precoated edges of filler and opening. Pic2

Excess adhesive was squeegeed flush.
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4 oz fiberglass fabric applied to the plywood after screws were removed and coated with epoxy to help hold the cloth in place on a vertical surface. Pic1.

Additional epoxy rolled onto the FG cloth, pressed down with a finned roller to press the cloth down and squeegeed to remove air bubbles and excess resin. Pic2
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Looking like progress. I’m jealous of your indoor workspace.
 
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