Run aground

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If 10 feet off actual water depth, and the boat drew 5 or 6 feet....the person who set it up might have already put their "navigable depth" in.

That's why I am used to actual water depth as you never can be sure what someone else's preference is.

But you are right about how far electronics have come!

Some day [within a such a few short decades]... in a distant land [U.S., Europe and other nations - to be exact]... the ability to have electronic devices do all we desire will be upon us.

I AM so glad I was born in 1952... Can you guess why? Some times I can't; but, then I realize all of the self-enabled fun I would have missed if born in 2052. By then, it seems, human brains may become an after thought to the all powerful computer/ether/electric/who-knows-what intelligence filled non-human "artifacts" that may/will run this world. That's all of course if we humans don't blow ourselves up first!
 
It is all about preference when it comes to offsets. I prefer to have the display be actual water depth so I can compare it with charted depth quickly by just adding the tidal height. It is just what I prefer but I understand why others prefer to see under keel depth.
 
My theory is:

Why do you need to know how deep the water is?

Answer: for safe navigation without grounding.

If you have your instruments set to overall water depth you need two variables, water depth and what the boat draws, then you need to do continuous calculation for water depth minus draw for the data you need.

Why do that when your instrumentation can do that for you and present the data in real time?

Plus, for others on the helm it is a simple instruction. That is how much water we have to play with.

I've always gone with actual water depth. I don't, however, argue that it is better, just what we have all been use to. The majority of captains I've been around prefer it, but again I think it's just familiarity. We're so in tune with knowing what we require in depth and that magic number in mind. Charts and all other instruments reflect actual depth, so easy to relate from depth sounder to chart. Chart says 11', I go through the area and quickly see depth sounder shows 11'3", then it all relates.

Just a preference, like knots vs. mph. Doesn't matter, just know what you've got. Very important to know the calibration is accurate, however it is set.
 
Had a buddy supposed to bring his boat to the dock one afternoon. Now this is a 31ft Stamas with OUTBOARDS. He grounded at speed -- was a bonehead move for sure.

I tried calling his cell, no answer (he wouldn't answer). After dark was getting worried when I see him making the turn to our dock.

He finally fessed up. I asked "Did you get a tow?" No. "Did the tide come up?" No. How did you get free?

He went to the front of the boat, threw his anchor far as he could, then winched the boat forward until he found some water. He must have done that 200 times. He was worn out.
 
I would have both read water under the keel. That is what is important. If for some reason I need to know actual depth (e.g. for diving off the boat) I would just add five.

This last summer I calibrated my depth sounder using a lead line. I set it to display water under the keel. This has advantages and disadvantages. The only disadvantage is that I have to remember to add the 4.5' to the depth when putting out anchor rode. My draft is about 4.5' and the bow roller is about 5' above the water so I just add 10' to the depth when calculating the amount of rode I want to use.
 
I don't bother to calibrate. For water depth, I add 2 feet to the reading, for under the keel I subtract 2 feet. For fuel consumption, I multiply by 70 percent. To steer straight while motoring forward, I steer with a 3-degree port rudder.

I've only been hard aground on my boat once. The day after moving the boat from the delivery ship and arrival at home berth, found the boat six inches above its waterline while docked. Moved to a different and much deeper berth/dock at the marina at first opportunity.

Instead of displaying depth with tiny numbers on the plotter, have a "fish finder" with large numbers and a visual display.
 
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When running in the skinnies, I look for the "blue line". That's the blue area on the sounder between bottom echo and top noise. As long as there is some blue, I'm good!! What's the depth in feet? Who cares. We've got some blue.

If it gets too skinny, I've got a three bladed nibral depth sounder. I know what that sounds like!!!
 
When running in the skinnies, I look for the "blue line". That's the blue area on the sounder between bottom echo and top noise. As long as there is some blue, I'm good!! What's the depth in feet? Who cares. We've got some blue.

If it gets too skinny, I've got a three bladed nibral depth sounder. I know what that sounds like!!!

Funny! :lol:
 
That's great ? and no shame in your game I was raised on the waters of Tampa bay and Clearwater and my first fixed keel sailboat ⛵️ had a draft of 4' 10" and yes you guessed it my new nickname was CAPT SANDBAR LOL ? got use to that boat after 2 grounds in the ICW in clw New Years night and 12 hours on the 20 degree lean no damage Thank God and yes I think we all have been there a time or two or self just some will admit to it and others don't have what it takes between there legs
Anyways my friend it's not the end of the world ? good ? luck and may god be with you

I can relate, living in the Clearwater side of things.... when I started boating years ago, I think I found every grounding spot in the whole county.... Not much smarter today, but figured out how to avoid grounding, for the most part.

I'd LOVE to have a forward sonar, as I often go into places that are uncharted looking for a nice anchorage. Think I'll start another thread on forward sonar rather than hijack this one.
 
Ski "
If it gets too skinny, I've got a three bladed nibral depth sounder. I know what that sounds like!!!"

Ha
I have a new 3 blade DS on order, for my dinghy. Luckily I have only needed prop straightening once on the bigger boat, and not for grounding.

A friend of mine has a fwd looking sounder that needed a new Transducer after he knocked the original around a bit in a grounding. Seems it didn't help him to avoid the grounding.

RTF - thanks for the Volvo Ocean race refresher. That wasn't due to DS failure, but was due to Vector charts not being zoomed in to see what was in the local area.
 
For me, I measured actual water depth via wood or line, then adjusted the sounders to match.

Lol..."adjusting the sounders to match" being the key phrase here! I had my offset backwards and ended up like this in Beaufort Harbor one afternoon. No harm, no foul, other than the embarrassment for all to see here! We sat ashore eating dinner and watched the increasing list. Luckily it was dark when we got off and avoided further embarrassment..

Hey, it's a boat!. Have fun, make mistakes, learn along the way...

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Copy that, good advice. I have never been hard aground, but came very close on a couple occasions. Knock wood. With two drives hanging below the hull, there is more at stake.

Hey, it's a boat!. Have fun, make mistakes, learn along the way...

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15 ft alarm in SWFL would be alarming continuously! You can go 2 dozen miles here without going deeper than that. Alarm set at 5 ft once in the ICW. Start churning at 3.0. Bottom line is outside the channel is idle speed/full alert only.
 
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15 ft alarm in SWFL would be alarming continuously! You can go 2 dozen miles here without going deeper than that. Alarm set at 5 ft once in the ICW. Start churning at 3.0. Bottom line is outside the channel is idle speed/full alert only.

We typically set ours two to three feet above our draft, so with a 5 ft draft, typically 8 feet.
 
Wait till ins. takes effect if you are comfortable on your boat.

Any boaters traveling south from St. Augustine Florida through Matanza and into Palm Coast, take warning. Channel markers have shifted from Matthew. It can go from 18ft. to 2ft. in a heartbeat. Tow Boat is in my marina and out most everyday for that exact reason.

Some of them did more than shift, there are a few missing up here in Savannah!
 
If you thought your grounding was bad....

I wasn't going to post it, but for those newer to the forum and particularly to the OP. Don't feel bad. The original owner of my boat did this not too long after he took possession of his new boat. BTW, this rock is well charted and right outside his home marina.
 

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Wow that one looks like it could hurt.....
 
Damn, that definitely qualifies as a hard grounding. You have the boat now, and all is good, but just curious what type of damage occurred? Was it strictly exterior glass damage to the hull? I would think this type of grounding has the potential to cause some structural damage if it was rolling around on the rock.

I wasn't going to post it, but for those newer to the forum and particularly to the OP. Don't feel bad. The original owner of my boat did this not too long after he took possession of his new boat. BTW, this rock is well charted and right outside his home marina.
 
Damn, that definitely qualifies as a hard grounding. You have the boat now, and all is good, but just curious what type of damage occurred? Was it strictly exterior glass damage to the hull? I would think this type of grounding has the potential to cause some structural damage if it was rolling around on the rock.


Just some exterior glass damage to the bottom where it sat on the rock. It was repaired, surveyed by the insurance company, and then gave the owner 5 more years of enjoyment. When I bought it last year, the surveyor looked inside and out and couldn't even find any evidence of the repair. Neither could I.
 
This is my favourite high 'n dry shot, somewhere in Northern France......
 

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That must be one of them Bendandtows.
 
What works for me is having depth sounder alarm set at 15' depth. Soon as alarm goes off I take direct account of surrounds as I slow way down... alternately watching the sounder's depth reading while also watching ahead (and around). I usually immediately reset alarm to 5' depth and go quite slow. If alarm rings again at 5'... I stop forward motion and take full account of next move to be made. Reverse is always a viable and available option!

I would think everyone would have a depth sounder with a low water alarm.

My boat draws 3 1/2 feet but is usually traveling at only seven knots. I set the alarm to five feet and bring the throttle back to idle whenever it sounds. From there, I try to figure out what the situation is and what to do next. Most of my boating is done over a soft bottom so the few times we have grounded we have been able to back off. Sometimes, waiting for someone o go by and throw a wake helps. Wakes aren't all bad. ;)
 
For me, I measured actual water depth via wood or line, then adjusted the sounders to match.

I would have thought everyone would do that. Calibrate it in relatively shallow water. Who cares if it's off in 50' of water? 4' is where it matters.


On a related note, I have passed through areas where the sounder (and it has been calibrated as above) read less than my draft. I can only guess that the bottom is really soft mud ("pluff mud") and the sounder is reading off the mud but the boat is plowing through it.
 
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I would have thought everyone would do that. Calibrate it in relatively shallow water. Who cares if it's off in 50' of water? 4' is where it matters.


On a related note, I have passed through areas where the sounder (and it has been calibrated as above) read less than my draft. I can only guess that the bottom is really soft mud ("pluff mud") and the sounder is reading off the mud but the boat is plowing through it.

My sounder gives a great, strong reading off of eel grass, which occurs in many of the shallow channels in the Gulf Islands. Many times it tells me that I am aground, when I know the real bottom is still 3 feet or more further down. In murky water, however, one doesn't go there.
 
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