Safe-T-Alert carbon monoxide

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Yep, did both. They have lots of options but they're all either hard wired 110v, or battery. Battery wouldn't be terrible, but I'd rather replace them with hard wired 12v like the original. Between home, cars, shop, boats and work, I have nine zillion things that need annual batteries and don't want one more - three more actually - and then I'll have to patch the original screw holes, stub the wiring and shove it into the wall, etc.
 
Yep, did both. They have lots of options but they're all either hard wired 110v, or battery. Battery wouldn't be terrible, but I'd rather replace them with hard wired 12v like the original. Between home, cars, shop, boats and work, I have nine zillion things that need annual batteries and don't want one more - three more actually - and then I'll have to patch the original screw holes, stub the wiring and shove it into the wall, etc.

We all have a nine zillion things onboard that are battery supported. I have not checked to see where the batteries. I just hope it is not China.
 
Dead or non-installed batteries have killed many a folk. This is why 10 year lifetime battery units are now widely available. The sensors are also time limited.
 
The hunt for new (replacement) SafeTAlert CO detectors continues. I ordered three from some outfit online called Caddis Outdoors, but then after waiting nearly a month they told me they were out of stock, back-ordered indefinitely so I cancelled the order. Hodges Marine out of stock. Defender sells Fireboy now at triple the price. Ebay has some listed, made in 2006 (long expired). Anybody find a good source for marine 12v CO detectors lately?
 
I’ll sell you mine. I have a wiring problem that I cannot resolve, a loose connection somewhere most likely. I tested them with a dc power supply and battery and they’re fine. PM me and we can discuss further
 

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How about RV shops/net sites for hardwired CO/propane detectors?
 
Some days I just hate boats. So Robert/Good Vices graciously made me a good deal on his three SafeTAlert 12v detectors. Oddly exactly the same thing happened. Old ones expired in 2007, but the lights were still green, and they squealed as they should when I hit the test button. I carefully snipped the wires (one at a time...) on the first one. Connected the new one. Nothing happened. Tested the two wires coming out of the wall -- nothing, dead, nothing on the volt meter. And the other two old ones, still screwed to the wall and connected, are also dead now, no green lights. Tested the new detector with a 12v battery, works fine. Checked my fuses, all good. I put a wire tracer on the wire to the first one -- goes up the wall, across the ceiling (also known as the floor at the helm above), and the signal stops dead just under the helm seats. It's a long ceiling/floor sandwich about six feet long. I have a fish tape and could pretty easily run a new pair of wires, but since it's either a blown, inaccessible, in-line fuse or maybe a bad butt connection inside the floor, I don't know which red wire (of about 20) that come into the helm pod serves the CO detectors, so I don't know which one to remove at the helm end. The fact that all three detectors are dead now makes me think they must all be wired on the same circuit. I hate to be beaten by electrical problems, and I don't like dead wires messing up my neat bundles inside the walls and floors, but this is starting to feel like my battle to keep the old Norcold refrigerator alive. At some point I just have to admit defeat and buy modern, battery-operated detectors and be done with it. Life is short, I have 43 other things on my to-do list.
 
That’s what I did. Battery works fine and easy to replace when out of date.
 
Question: Is it best to have boat provided 12VDC wired CO detector or a CO detector that has its own internal battery.

The internal battery units were advertised as having a ten year lifespan.

Comments?
 
Question: Is it best to have boat provided 12VDC wired CO detector or a CO detector that has its own internal battery.

The internal battery units were advertised as having a ten year lifespan.

Comments?

Well, the LI batteries have a ten year lifespan, but I believe the detectors are still good or rated for just five. Although I wonder what winter layup will do to the batteries at 20 below zero, unless I pull all the batteries (if they're not sealed). But that's another thing I'm thinking of -- who knows how long I'll have this boat, but in five years I'd have to do this all over again, and SafeTAlert/MTI is really annoying. Like Norcold, I'm in no mood to chase replacements again five years from now, what with discontinued or suspended production, high prices, and troublesome installs. Boy this should be such a relatively simple item on the to-do list.
 
Mainship - Don't replace expired wired CO2 detectors with new wired ones

Between Karl & me we have $330 in useless detectors, and much wasted time & effort. So fair warning to anyone wanting to replace the expired wired CO2 detectors with new wired ones on a Mainship:
---- DON'T DO IT ----
In my case, I did have 12 volts at each location until... I wired one in, in any of the 3 locations, and the voltage dropped to 2 volts on the entire circuit. So like Karl, likely a bad connection somewhere.
Mainship didn't bother to put the circuit in their schematics for troubleshooting which would have made it clear that one leg is wired in series to all 3 detectors. It appears the wired CO2 detectors system was not thought out and they had a QA problem with the circuit. :mad:
 
A. Go to your local hardware store
B. Go to Home Depot
You will get either 120V or internal batty.
The better choice is to try a camper / RV supplier for the 12V ones if you prefer to run off house battys. I moved mine from always on to through a breaker that can be shut off for storage. My MS has acseparate panel for always on stuff like auto bilge pumps etc. Been OK for 10 yrs but may be getting near end of life.
 
I’ll sell you mine. I have a wiring problem that I cannot resolve, a loose connection somewhere most likely. I tested them with a dc power supply and battery and they’re fine. PM me and we can discuss further

What's the part number on those?
 
I sold them to Karl...

That's great, but I'd still like to know what the part# on them was. Because those look like 62 series surface mount on a trim ring. The pix on MTI's website show the trim ring 62 series using the partially-flush model (and I don't have space behind for that).
 
Ahh ok. The whole story is the original ones on my 2003 Mainship were the 65 Series Surface Mount which were not available from the MTI... or anywhere else for that matter. So I bought 62 series surface mount and hand made adapter plates/trim rings out of 1/4" Starboard. They fit nicely but I could not locate the short circuit and then sold them to Karl. I then bought some battery ones on Amazon (X-Sense XC04-R) that mostly covered up the screw holes.

ROBERT
 
Ahh ok. The whole story is the original ones on my 2003 Mainship were the 65 Series Surface Mount which were not available from the MTI... or anywhere else for that matter. So I bought 62 series surface mount and hand made adapter plates/trim rings out of 1/4" Starboard. They fit nicely but I could not locate the short circuit and then sold them to Karl. I then bought some battery ones on Amazon (X-Sense XC04-R) that mostly covered up the screw holes.

That's what I suspected. Nice job on the adapter plates.
 

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