salon doors

[Slowboat 37]

I*have a 1979 Her shine 37, Can somebody please*tell me how to remove the doors to replace the rollers and where I would find the parts? Thanks Steve

 

[Daddyo]

It's usually a matter of lifting the door off the bottom track, on our boat you have to slide the door to a certain spot where there are holes in the upper track that then align with blocks attached to the top of the door.

 

[Slowboat 37]

Thanks for the tip, I'll try that tomorrow. I don't know if it is rust or flat spots on the rollers but the doors are driving crazy with the sticking.

 

[Peter B]

You might find that you have to unscrew the bronze runner under the door, to get it out - I had to do that with my pilot door, though the rear door lifted out as described. You can get at the screws by moving the door to its furthest point to get at one lot of screws thus exposed, then back to the other end to get the other lot out. Some have reported an excellent fix, if the rollers in the bottom of the door are totally stuffed, is to replace them by a strip/strips of appropriately wide silicone plastic, like kitchen cutting boards are made of, (by pirating one of those and cutting it into strips), and screwing this in in place of the warn out rollers. I did not need to do that, but I believe it works well.

 

[Tom.B]

Peter B wrote:

You might find that you have to unscrew the bronze runner under the door, to get it out - I had to do that with my pilot door, though the rear door lifted out as described. You can get at the screws by moving the door to its furthest point to get at one lot of screws thus exposed, then back to the other end to get the other lot out. Some have reported an excellent fix, if the rollers in the bottom of the door are totally stuffed, is to replace them by a strip/strips of appropriately wide silicone plastic, like kitchen cutting boards are made of, (by pirating one of those and cutting it into strips), and screwing this in in place of the warn out rollers. I did not need to do that, but I believe it works well.

Same with my '86 Senator.

 

[Vagabond1209]

An easy, short term fix for worn out rollers on those teak sliding doors is to use sections of nylon or UHMW furniture sliders that you find at home depot. These sliders come in various sizes. The one I selected was about 2" long X 3/4" wide. Light grey in color.

First step is to clean the accumulated gunk out of the groove in the door bottom using a screwdriver or 1/4" wood chisel, then Flushwith hot water water.

Clamp the slider down and cut the slider length-wise (careful! Use a straight edge or vice) with a utility knife to match the groove width in the door bottom and voila. Lift the door at each side and push a strip into the groove at each side of the door with the slippery side down.The door will slide on the brass insert almost as easily as rollers.

Did this two years ago until I got around to proper roller replacement... They never pushed out and just last month I replaced them again.

A lazy fix that works!

 

[yo]

thanks for the tip, I.ll try it.

 

[Pineapple Girl]

I bought a roll of UHMW tape and stuck it on the bottom of both doors (removed rollers) a year and a half ago. I see no reason to replace the rollers now, the doors slide great on the tape.

 

[Baggiolini]

I bought a roll of UHMW tape and stuck it on the bottom of both doors (removed rollers) a year and a half ago. I see no reason to replace the rollers now, the doors slide great on the tape.

Pineapple girls doors are the smoothest doors I have ever seen on a boat!

 

[Peter B]

I am presuming UHMW stands for ultra high molecular weight...right...? Never heard of it in a tape before - sounds interesting...

 

[Pineapple Girl]

I am presuming UHMW stands for ultra high molecular weight...right...? Never heard of it in a tape before - sounds interesting...

I think that is what UHMW stands for and I THINK that is what the tape was (maybe some other four letters that start with a U )... I have the receipt at home and I will double check tonight and post where I got it. I ordered it online.

 

[belizebill]

Funny, got up this morning and went out to the Miss, couldnt hardly slide my door open, guess Its another project. BB

 

[C lectric]

Trivial trivia
UHMW is short for Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene. It is a polythylene. It has been available in tape form for many years. Just nowhere near the retail market, always industrial uses. However, like many good things other uses are found and it works it way to the retail market.

 

[Pineapple Girl]

I bought a .060" x 1.000" x 25ft roll of Slick Strip UHMW PS adhesive tape from Ridout Plastics in San Diego. Not sure how much it was, only have a packing slip.

 

[Baggiolini]

I am presuming UHMW stands for ultra high molecular weight...right...? Never heard of it in a tape before - sounds interesting...

Very impressive bit of cocktail trivia right there

 

[Hawkins]

Brand new member....Has anyone ever replaced the panels in the doors (either salon or pilot) and if so how. We have alot of TLC to give our '79 Californian but replacing or repairing the pilot door is the first order of business since it is warped. Slides well but the bottom panel is in terrible shape!

 

[Flatsflyer]

I just replaced the four rollers on my CT 35, 2 on each door. I found exact type at ACE Hardware but they where the wrong size. The ACE store in St. Augustine went on the computer and found a larger size 1-11/16" that is normally used for commercial applications. They ordered me 2 sets, 2 per set and they arrive 4 days later. The cost for the rollers where $8. per set, $16. in total, no shipping charge. Installed all 4 in less than 2 hours, perfect fit.

 

[Pau Hana]

An easy, short term fix for worn out rollers on those teak sliding doors is to use sections of nylon or UHMW furniture sliders that you find at home depot. These sliders come in various sizes. The one I selected was about 2" long X 3/4" wide. Light grey in color.

First step is to clean the accumulated gunk out of the groove in the door bottom using a screwdriver or 1/4" wood chisel, then Flushwith hot water water.

Clamp the slider down and cut the slider length-wise (careful! Use a straight edge or vice) with a utility knife to match the groove width in the door bottom and voila. Lift the door at each side and push a strip into the groove at each side of the door with the slippery side down.The door will slide on the brass insert almost as easily as rollers.

Did this two years ago until I got around to proper roller replacement... They never pushed out and just last month I replaced them again.

A lazy fix that works!

I bought a roll of UHMW tape and stuck it on the bottom of both doors (removed rollers) a year and a half ago. I see no reason to replace the rollers now, the doors slide great on the tape.

Thanks for the great ideas! As our problem is a worn out section of the lower track where the lead door roller tends to settle, I think the combination of the above 2 solutions may just solve our problem.

The alternative is (1) a custom lower track at about $500, or (2) a new complete door assembly at about $2500.

 

[akflyrod2]

I just replaced the four rollers on my CT 35, 2 on each door. I found exact type at ACE Hardware but they where the wrong size. The ACE store in St. Augustine went on the computer and found a larger size 1-11/16" that is normally used for commercial applications. They ordered me 2 sets, 2 per set and they arrive 4 days later. The cost for the rollers where $8. per set, $16. in total, no shipping charge. Installed all 4 in less than 2 hours, perfect fit.

Please tell me what brand or company ACE Hardware ordered from. Do you have photos? I really need to replace the rollers on my doors. Thanks.

 

[Flatsflyer]

Salon Doors

I don't have the information but the rollers where for sliding screen patio doors. We found them at Ace, wrong size. The Ace people went online and found the same brand, they came in several sizes the store did not carry. The order them and they were delivered to the store within a few days. I've since sold the boat, she is now owned by another (Winmillxxx) forum member, he may have the information in all the literature that I gave him with the boat.