If building new, especially out of metal, I would install an articulated rudder.
Seems like too much to break or jamb. I think a nice solid Schilling rudder would be fantastic - efficient and with that wonderful fishtail wedge
If building new, especially out of metal, I would install an articulated rudder.
After bow spring. Tied to bow cleat, 35 feet long for 40 foot boat, loop at end to drop on dock cleat near where your stern will wind up.
This is a highly technical subject, I`m going to give the excellent posts more well deserved time.
One thing placing a spring line points up is the utility of a helm door, and walkaround decks. Imagine having to leave the helm via the cockpit door and return,or descend a FB ladder and return after placing a line
This is what I do if coming bow first into the dock/wind but my line is on my midship cleat. I grab the closest dock cleat then power fwd to line up with the dock. If I have to shoehorn between 2 other boats on the dock, I often back up to the dock cleat to use my aft stbd cleat with line ready. Once the stern is tied short, I can power fwd to line up with the dock.
Absolutely!! I couldn't single-hand as easily without both.
This is a highly technical subject, I`m going to give the excellent posts more well deserved time.
One thing placing a spring line points up is the utility of a helm door, and walkaround decks. Imagine having to leave the helm via the cockpit door and return,or descend a FB ladder and return after placing a line
Iots of things break on boats, new tugs all have much more complex drive systems and they work hard every day.
Spacecraft and airplans are complex with articulated surfaces.
Engineered and built correctly should provide recreational boating just fine.
Heck, a well designed rudder on a slow boat is amazing, but if I were to improve on it, I would go all the way.
Been watching the demonstration videos on Youtube. It appears that the boats with articulated rudders have about a 4-boat length turn radius (half of a traditional one). But then the fishtail rudder boat has about a 1.5 turn radius. Basically it's a stern thruster, in essence.
Been watching the demonstration videos on Youtube. It appears that the boats with articulated rudders have about a 4-boat length turn radius (half of a traditional one). But then the fishtail rudder boat has about a 1.5 turn radius. Basically it's a stern thruster, in essence.
Interested parties can easily find numerous articles on articulated rudders. Not that it is the end all info source, Passagemaker had a short article tolling the virtues of articulated rudders.
I have serious doubts that by design , fishtails perform better across the board. If they did, no one would design or install articulated rudders.
Not that fishtails arent a great thing too, so on new builds I would investigate both. Both can be added later also.
I looked into the articulating rudder for awhile and it just didn't make enough sense to install, and didn't wanted any more complexity even though it was rather simple. Ended up installing a simple fishtail with some stainless strips that worked pretty good, plus increasing my skills in the back and fill method and overall, works ok.
Sometimes a little practice at a basic skill can save some money. I don't have a lot of money so I've tried to focus on improving my skills to compensate. What's your rudder made of? I've looked at putting a fishtail on mine as it's fiberglass which wouldn't take much to modify, or return to original. I also looked into a bulbous bow but that's another story.
Fish,
I believe the rudder is bronze, but hard to tell. The fish tail I put on is stainless.
Diagram below:
Nice job, do you notice any increase in drag?
Twins or singles -- have had both over the last 50 years and I am sold on singles -- less maintenance, more room to work, more storage room and in the PNW the prop is not on the outboard chines sucking in garbage. In terms of maneuvering my Mainship 34 has bow and stern thrusters and can turn in its own length
I'm sure it's been mentioned , but the number one reason an engine stops is a fuel issue. No amount of engines, wing engines , generators or whatever will cure that.
Yep. This says it best for me. I'll only add that I knew before hand the kind of risks I'm willing to take. So that meant I absolutely needed to have the protection a full keel gives the running gear.
I'm sure it's been mentioned , but the number one reason an engine stops is a fuel issue. No amount of engines, wing engines , generators or whatever will cure that.
Our Tolly has twins and two tanks. Each engine runs of its own tank. One might quit due to fuel trouble. Doubtful that both would have same fuel problem simultaneously.
Twins, each with their own independent tanks... will... "usually" mean the boat will not be stopped dead in the water due to a fuel issue. Of course, there is an exception to every rule!
We have twins with separate tanks...
But then we tend to take on fuel in both tanks at the same time... so a load of bad fuel would likely affect both tanks, both engines...
<sigh>...
-Chris