Small repair to bow ding

[Sunset]

On the day I bought the Manatee the PO accompanied me on a get-acquainted run. On our return to the bow-in concrete wall (no finger piers) my first landing attempt resulted in the damage shown below. Now the boat is n my yard and this repair is at the top of my list - but I have no idea how to address the damage properly. Any suggestions welcomed!

 

[Nomad Willy]

3M makes a very good epoxy marine "filler" I think they call it. It's very green and we were introduced to it at the boatyard during our refit about 9 years ago. We filled countless holes and "dings" w the stuff and nothing ever failed in those 9 years. Boat was outside in SE Alaska weather.

The biggest hole you've got there looks like it could use some structural reinforcement like FG strands mixed in w epoxy resin.

 

[Sailor of Fortune]

Hull and deck putty. Hamilton marine or your favorite F-glass supply house. 1 gallon kits at Hamilton are about $50.

 

[Larry M]

How big is the larger area of damage? Less than 1/8" deep you'll be OK. Tape off the area that you want to work on. Use a Dermal tool and clean out the damaged area so there are no loose pieces. Don't go to far. You are only looking for a solid surface for the filler to bond too. Wipe with acetone and use the 3M filler Eric referenced and follow the directions.

3M Marine Premium Filler

After it has been sanded, go over with 3M Acrylic grazing putty. This will fill sanding marks pin holes, etc. It's a 1 part putty that dries in minutes. Sand with 4-600 wet sandpaper.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-05095-Acryl-White-Putty-Tube/dp/B003P6I5KS

Buy some gel coat and match the color to your hull. (Not easy) Once you have it matched, spray on the gel-coat using a Preval sprayer, thinning the gel-coat using styrene or acetone. Wet sand starting with 600 then 800 then 1200 then 1500 wet sandpaper using a block always. Then buff and wax. The results will look brand new.

Preval — The Preval Spray System

 

[Codger2]

- but I have no idea how to address the damage properly. Any suggestions welcomed!

Start here to have a look at what hundreds of others did.https://www.google.com/search?q=Gel...0CAkQ_AUoAQ&biw=1031&bih=527&dpr=1.5#imgdii=_

Then follow these directions & submit photos to the Forum for certification.

 

[Sunset]

Wow, lots of good info here guys! Thanks a lot - I'll follow up and get this done.

 

[FF]

The WEST 2 part epoxy that comes in a tube will be fine.

It is thixotropic , thin when played with , stirred , and thickens when left alone.

Very expensive as the tube is only 1/2 filled , but it does work.

Use an auto body plastic spreader to apply.

 

[Sunset]

I'll peruse the local chandleries and West Marine. There's a few other spots on this old boat that could likely use a gelcoat touch up as well.

 

[Larry M]

The WEST 2 part epoxy that comes in a tube will be fine.

It is thixotropic , thin when played with , stirred , and thickens when left alone.

Very expensive as the tube is only 1/2 filled , but it does work.

Use an auto body plastic spreader to apply.

Epoxy doesn't stand up well when exposed to UV so you'd still need to paint over it, plus it doesn't sand very easily. I'm not sure it's the best choice for cosmetic repairs.

 

[pauloman]

kevlar reinforced wet dry 700 marine epoxy - and computer color matched enamel paint from the hardware store.

paul

 

[Northern Spy]

How big is the larger area of damage? Less than 1/8" deep you'll be OK. Tape off the area that you want to work on. Use a Dermal tool and clean out the damaged area so there are no loose pieces. Don't go to far. You are only looking for a solid surface for the filler to bond too. Wipe with acetone and use the 3M filler Eric referenced and follow the directions.

3M Marine Premium Filler

After it has been sanded, go over with 3M Acrylic grazing putty. This will fill sanding marks pin holes, etc. It's a 1 part putty that dries in minutes. Sand with 4-600 wet sandpaper.

3M 05095 Acryl-White Putty Tube - 14.5 oz. : Amazon.com : Automotive

Buy some gel coat and match the color to your hull. (Not easy) Once you have it matched, spray on the gel-coat using a Preval sprayer, thinning the gel-coat using styrene or acetone. Wet sand starting with 600 then 800 then 1200 then 1500 wet sandpaper using a block always. Then buff and wax. The results will look brand new.

Preval — The Preval Spray System

This is exactly what I did. Great instructions!

 

[Sailor of Fortune]

Paul
In the interest of full disclosure, do you happen to own a certain fiberglass supply house in N.H?....Not that I think you are giving bad advice, just so we know who the players are.

Why not do a roll and tip job on that Albin after you mend the battle scars? Easypoxy or Briteside are do it your self friendly (for hacks like me anyway!).

 

[markpierce]

In 1963 my Dad crashed his FB, 28.5-foot sloop at his berth in Jack London Square resulting in similar damage. (The transmission was in forward gear but he thought he was in reverse to check the boat's speed.) After the repair, he had a quarter-inch thick piece of curved stainless steel about 3 inches wide and 12 inches tall installed at the point of collision. Thus, reducing the chance of hull damage in a similar future collision.

This inspired the installation of a stainless-steel plate on the Coot, although this is better for reducing possible damage to the paint caused by the anchor.

 

[Sunset]

Sailor ----> The hull is in good shape overall. My plan is to compound and polish the hull and tip/roll the deck/cabin exterior with Easypoxy. I don't have the energy to paint the whole thing!