Snubber

[wkearney99]

Pretty self explanatory.

Having seen various kinds and tried a few, I'm skeptical of anything claiming to be self explanatory. The Mantus thing, for example, seems like a great idea... until you actually hold one and realize how effectively it'd put a big-ass dent in the fiberglass when you drop it accidentally. Or plan old hooks that want to drop out of the chain links way too easily.

I'm going to give the soft shackles a try.

 

[catalinajack]

Having seen various kinds and tried a few, I'm skeptical of anything claiming to be self explanatory. The Mantus thing, for example, seems like a great idea... until you actually hold one and realize how effectively it'd put a big-ass dent in the fiberglass when you drop it accidentally. Or plan old hooks that want to drop out of the chain links way too easily.

I'm going to give the soft shackles a try.

I have that Mantus thing and I never have come close to having it damage any fiberglass. Perhaps it is a function and is particular to the boat. It is quite easy to attach and detach from the chain.

 

[Sangraal]

The soft shackle is a wonderful invention, easy to make and works well in this application. I use one on my set up with 7/16” chain and a 120# Rocna. No issues since I started with them several years ago now. Making them is fun and easy to do and I have ended up using soft shackles for many applications on our trawler.

 

[FF]

"A properly rigged snubber reduces the load on the chain proportional to its length, so it's a puzzle why so many boat builders don't bother to provide an easy way to use what I think is an important safety device."


A properly set up boat would have the snubber secured to a barely above the water plate to keep the anchor angle low , and enough room on deck to install a chain stopper to handle the entire load of the anchored boat when the snubber is not used.

 

[dhays]

"A properly rigged snubber reduces the load on the chain proportional to its length, so it's a puzzle why so many boat builders don't bother to provide an easy way to use what I think is an important safety device."


A properly set up boat would have the snubber secured to a barely above the water plate to keep the anchor angle low , and enough room on deck to install a chain stopper to handle the entire load of the anchored boat when the snubber is not used.

I agree about the chain stopper. You are right about the location of the attachment point for the snubber, other than the difficulty of attaching it on some boats. I can’t reach the waterline at the bow from my deck. That means that the snubber line would be attached there full time.

 

[rgano]

One consideration when selecting HARDware type snubber attachments is that should the pretty SS devices out there under heavy strain have an undetected stress crack and break, the remaining HARDware on the end of a stretchy bit of nylon line is coming back at you and your boat. A carbon steel device kept in good order is less likely to do that and is likely stronger in the same size. I use neither preferring instead a braided snubber and the knowledge of the proper hitch to secure it to the rode, chain or nylon.

 

[wkearney99]

...the remaining HARDware on the end of a stretchy bit of nylon line is coming back at you and your boat.

This is good warning for anything attached to a line, heck, even the line itself. Anything put into use that could come under extreme loads presents serious risks of damage, injury and potential death. Best to have a plan thought out ahead of time on how you're going to deal with releasing something in emergency conditions.

This is why I'm somewhat hesitant to consider snubbers designed to use a loop over the onboard cleat. That presumes being able to back the rode up sufficiently to get the loop back over the cleat. My thinking is I'd rather have a cleat knot on a bitter end as there might be easier means to get it back off the cleat under that sort of situation.

Now, I don't foresee being in situations like that all that often, if ever. Especially with other help aboard. Bearing in mind I've had windlass fuse failures (since dealt with by replacing the faulty breaker ahead of the fuse). Manually cranking the windlass up is likewise tedious as the bar for doing so can't readily be stored near it. With someone else at the throttles it "shouldn't be" a big deal to push forward to relieve strain... but in an emergency I'm kinda skeptical of getting my wife/son to make that happen.

Thus my planning tends to focus on how to best, quickly, and safely get situations handled on my own, or with very little directed assistance.

 

[FlyWright]

They're made of Dyneema, which is why they are so freaking strong. To attach a soft shackle to the chain, you just pass the loop end through the chain and the thimble, then loop the eye over the knot. Takes about 5 seconds to attach. You only need a 1/4" Dyneema (or equivalent) soft shackle to exceed the strength of the chain many fold. Here's a link to one possible manufacturer: https://www.marlowropes.com/product/dynaline-shackles

You can find them for under $15, or, you can easily make them.

The soft shackle is a wonderful invention, easy to make and works well in this application. I use one on my set up with 7/16” chain and a 120# Rocna. No issues since I started with them several years ago now. Making them is fun and easy to do and I have ended up using soft shackles for many applications on our trawler.

Another fan of the soft shackle here. I use the Davis Line Grabber paired with a Davis Shockle. The Shockle sits at the ready attached at the pulpit cleat. The 2 Line Grabbers are always attached at my most often used chain-only anchoring lengths of 90 and 120 ft of chain. They pass through the windlass gypsy easily and without damage.

When it's time to set the snubber, I just clip the tag end of the Shockle to the Line Grabber loop and deploy 5-10 ft of chain so the Shockle extends beyond the end of the anchor roller with a slack hanging chain loop. It's a very simple attach/detach process with no loose parts to fall overboard or fall off the chain.

If you zoom in on the photo below, you can see the black Shockle hooked to the pulpit cleat and hanging off the stbd side of the pulpit when not in use. The other end of the Shockle has a matching clip to attach to the Line Grabber loop.

 

[Simi 60]

Having seen various kinds and tried a few, I'm skeptical of anything claiming to be self explanatory. The Mantus thing, for example, seems like a great idea... until you actually hold one and realize how effectively it'd put a big-ass dent in the fiberglass when you drop it accidentally.

You don't get any instructions with a hammer either and I bet it'd put a big ass dent in your skull if you hit it accidentally.
Most people don't need instructions to figure that out.

 

[wkearney99]

You don't get any instructions with a hammer either and I bet it'd put a big ass dent in your skull if you hit it accidentally.
Most people don't need instructions to figure that out.

You'd think so.

 

[koliver]

These pictures (somewhat poorly) illustrate the hassle of trying to make use of a snubber on the all-chain rode of our EB47.

I don't have any better bow/side view pix, and this one shows the boat during delivery when it still had both the Fortress and the plow anchors in place on the roller. I only keep the plow anchor up there now. It's tough to tell from the side view, but easier from astern, but there's a rod that at the far forward end, presumably there to help avoid the anchor/chain from coming up above the roller. This makes it tedious trying to get anything attached to the chain. Any line attached has to be either fed in from up/over that rod or fed out with the chain. Either one makes for problems. Fed out with the chain means having to carefully grab it with a boat hook, lest it drop into the water. Getting it forward and under that rod is a longer reach than you might think, just looking at these pictures.

I think the rod can be removed, and that would greatly ease putting a snubber on the chain without needing to be reaching out over the end of the roller. With the plow anchor in use it's hook shape seems to be more than sufficient for keeping it 'in place' on the roller. As shown in the picture, if I had the Fortress up there I'd probably have to keep the rod installed to avoid letting it flap upward if seas picked up.

I don't see any difficulty whatsoever on your wide open deck. The snubber goes on the chain once you are anchored. Then you let out enough chain to lower the snubber to the waterline or so, plus enough to create a sagging bight of chain above the snubber. The first time you do this, you will note the length of line from snubber to cleats, so it can be rigged on the cleats accurately every time.
No leaning over the rails.

My chain hook is as big as any of the ones shown, and goes over the bow roller easily.

 

[wkearney99]

I don't see any difficulty whatsoever on your wide open deck. The snubber goes on the chain once you are anchored. Then you let out enough chain to lower the snubber to the waterline or so, plus enough to create a sagging bight of chain above the snubber. The first time you do this, you will note the length of line from snubber to cleats, so it can be rigged on the cleats accurately every time.
No leaning over the rails.

Perhaps you didn't read or note the layout of the roller.

Were that not the case, I wouldn't have posted the details.

Now, if I remove part of the roller, then yes, it becomes possible to latch something right onto the chain just forward of it's position at the windlass and then feed that out, presuming the ends of the snubbers get worked around the two stanchions on each side and back through the fairleads to the cleats.

 

[koliver]

Perhaps you didn't read or note the layout of the roller.

Were that not the case, I wouldn't have posted the details.

Now, if I remove part of the roller, then yes, it becomes possible to latch something right onto the chain just forward of it's position at the windlass and then feed that out, presuming the ends of the snubbers get worked around the two stanchions on each side and back through the fairleads to the cleats.

That pin across the top should be replaceable with a pin that has a spring loaded ball, then you can leave it in place when the anchor is aboard and remove it for when the anchor is deployed.
The other end should be on a lanyard.

 

[FF]

"I can’t reach the waterline at the bow from my deck. That means that the snubber line would be attached there full time."


That is why the caution to have the snubber as long as possible , without reaching the running gear if washed overboard.

 

[wkearney99]

That pin across the top should be replaceable with a pin that has a spring loaded ball, then you can leave it in place when the anchor is aboard and remove it for when the anchor is deployed. The other end should be on a lanyard.

Curiously I'm in need of a few other pins with that kind of release. There's a seatback in the cockpit that needs some, along with one that popped loose from the dinghy cradle on the swim platform. Those are much thinner diameter than the roller pin, but the idea's the same.

One interesting item came up in search results:
https://www.carrlane.com/en-us/prod...l-lock-pins/marine-ball-lock-pins-ring-handle

No doubt there's similar quick release ball pin examples from others.

 

[dhays]

Curiously I'm in need of a few other pins with that kind of release. There's a seatback in the cockpit that needs some, along with one that popped loose from the dinghy cradle on the swim platform. Those are much thinner diameter than the roller pin, but the idea's the same.



One interesting item came up in search results:

https://www.carrlane.com/en-us/prod...l-lock-pins/marine-ball-lock-pins-ring-handle



No doubt there's similar quick release ball pin examples from others.

I think you are talking about what my Dad always referred to as a “fast pin”. I have seen them called “quick release” pins as well. I think the term used in your link is probably the most accurate “ball lock pin”.

Anyway, you can search under those names and likely come up with different options.

My roller has a bale over the end that keeps the chain or anchor from coming off the roller. It actually did its job once when I buried the bow in a wave that lifted the anchor off the roller. The bale kept it in position instead of falling and then bashing my bow. Rather than a fixed bale, one with a fast pin would be more convenient.

 

[stevemitchell]

I bought a Mantus for our 3/8 chain set up last spring.

I will probably sell it on Ebay or here next spring. It is just so friggin' big. Getting it past the roller and anchor "bounce bar" is really difficult.

We will revert to our double shackle set up going forward.

It's a pity because the Mantus really is very simple to attach and take off and holds the snubber to chain well. It is just too large for the application.

I have both v1 and v2 of their chain hook and don't use either after continual problems. Not only does it not fit through the roller, but the v2 hook falls off the chain because of bad design with the rubber strap retainer. They've sent me many replacements, and a "new" version which just has a cover over the rubber strap, but it still fails.

I went back to one I've used before which works far better, and can be retrieved through the roller from Suncor.

 

[wkearney99]

I think you are talking about what my Dad always referred to as a “fast pin”. I have seen them called “quick release” pins as well. I think the term used in your link is probably the most accurate “ball lock pin”.

Anyway, you can search under those names and likely come up with different options.

My roller has a bale over the end that keeps the chain or anchor from coming off the roller. It actually did its job once when I buried the bow in a wave that lifted the anchor off the roller. The bale kept it in position instead of falling and then bashing my bow. Rather than a fixed bale, one with a fast pin would be more convenient.

Heh, the fun part of any specialized hobby is getting to know the specific terminology. 'Fast pin' being one I've come across when trying to figure out what to call that sort of thing. Likewise the thin stainless lanyards that attempt to keep them from getting lost.

A previous boat also had a strip of stainless as a bale over the end of the anchor roller. I'd forgotten about it. It also did just what you mentioned, kept the anchor from coming up. That's what this pin does, it's just not easily removable. I'm going to see if I a pin of this sort could be used.

Which reminds me, I'll have to dig up my taper gauge from the tools at home.

 

[skipgundlach]

We use https://www.ultramarinewest.com/products/ultra-chain-grab

Love it. 1" megabraid has much more strength than our 5/16 G4, and it goes over the rollers effortlessly. We use a length of firehose to protect the MBraid, and cleat it aft of the rollers.

Stays put, and we don't have to interact with the rollers at all to install or remove it.