Solar

[tmcnamara58]

I am looking to add a small solar panel to the radar arch to keep the house battery charged and the fridge running while on a mooring.
I have a Mainship Pilot 34 softtop.

Suggestions on vendor and panel size are welcome.

Thanks

 

[psneeld]

Not sure what you mean by a small solar panel, and would have to know the running amps of your fridge.

But my guess to get through overcast days, a couple decent sized batteries and probably at least 200W of panels will be about the minimum.

Look up the sizes of different panels and see if they will fit on your radar arch.

 

[mvweebles]

Depending on the size of your fridge and climate, I'd guess you need 75AH/day which translates into 1kw/day. Around 200-watts of solar. If you have a soft-top, you probably want flexible solar panels. Mounting is really the only difficult part of the work. As Psneeld insinuates, you do need to factor-in battery capacity as a function of how many cloudy days you want to account for. Depending on your climate, 200AH of available capacity (LiFePO4 have more 'available' as a percentage of rated capacity than Flood Acid) is probably a comfortable minimum.

Although the marketing and pricing is compelling, I would stay away from Renogy. If you ever need tech support, you're screwed. I received a dead-on-arrival inverter which they steadfastly refused to RMA until I filed all sorts of credit card and BBB complaints. In the process, I received blatently wrong information - telling my my new 12.6v battery bank was dead and needed to be replaced before they would RMA my Inverter. It is not possible to exaggerate how bad their support is.

2-years ago I installed two 165W "Newpowa" RIGID panels on a camper van. They are doing fine and I would buy them again, though I never needed tech support so no idea if they are any good. I see they now offer full solar kits but nothing in FLEXIBLE panels. HERE is a RIGID 200W system for under $400. The only other thing you would need is some sort of circuit protection to the battery. I also like a switch on the panel side of the Controller to shut-down the electricity from the panels if service is needed. A circuit breaker works nicely.

Good luck -

Peter

 

[O C Diver]

My slip neighbor in Florida bought one of these kits and has been very happy with it.

https://www.renogy.com/350-watt-solar-flexible-kit/

Maybe you could mount it on your soft top.

Ted

 

[DavidM]

As noted above a minimum of 200 watts will be required as typically a 200 watt panel will produce 50 Ah each day on average. A typical modest size fridge (6 cu ft) draws that much on average.

Any of the 100 watt panels available on Amazon should work. Wire them in series to minimize voltage drop and then to a Renogy Rover 30A controller, also available on Amazon.

David

 

[Don L]

I had a 290W panel for years to maintain my battery with the frig running while out on a mooring. It needs to be bigger than just the load to average out for the days with low solar.

I also cruised for 2 years with that panel before changing to 2-320W panels.

These panels are rigid, but if I would starting now I would just go on Amazon as there are flexible panel kits with controller cheaper than you can buy 1/2 the wattage or rigid panels alone.

 

[mvweebles]

These panels are rigid, but if I would starting now I would just go on Amazon as there are flexible panel kits with controller cheaper than you can buy 1/2 the wattage or rigid panels alone.

Read the review comments and look for the rating tag that should be affixed to the back of each panel (many of the cheap brands post nothing of the specified rating). Many of the cheap panels are clearly suspect - wattage specs and size specs are vague and claims of efficiency grand. They also come with a PWM controller vs MPPT.

In short, there's a reason they are so cheap. "Buy cheap, buy twice" as the saying goes.

Peter

 

[Don L]

Read the review comments and look for the rating tag that should be affixed to the back of each panel (many of the cheap brands post nothing of the specified rating). Many of the cheap panels are clearly suspect - wattage specs and size specs are vague and claims of efficiency grand. They also come with a PWM controller vs MPPT.

In short, there's a reason they are so cheap. "Buy cheap, buy twice" as the saying goes.

Peter

Yes, but the question is not if they are the best or even if they are "good". The question is whether they meet the need at that lower price.

When I got my first rigid panel solar setup it cost me over $1500 to install a 290W panel just to charge batteries out on the mooring so I could leave the frig on.

Surely a $500 flexible panel 500W system with a PWM controller now available can do the same service and is easier to install.

Same applies to my current LFP cheap house batteries that were $309/ea for 100ah. Maybe not best, but been fine so far for 6 months so why would I have gotten the $800-1000 ones?

 

[backinblue]

I just added a 200W panel to my hardtop. Plenty to run the fridge and keep batteries topped off. While I was at it, I had a small inverter installed so I can run some smaller AC loads w/o needing the generator (single-cup coffee maker, microwave, TV, AC outlets.)

 

[heysteve]

Suggestions on vendor and panel size are welcome.

For a vendor, check out CurrentConnected. No affiliation, just a happy customer. Bought my SOK marine batteries and a fair amount of Victron gear from them. Support is excellent.

 

[mvweebles]

Surely a $500 flexible panel 500W system with a PWM controller now available can do the same service and is easier to install.

Issue is the 500w panels may not be 500w. There is no labeling except Amazon ad.

Peter

 

[NSM]

You might start here. Lots of good basic info and sizing to make sure your panel fits.

https://www.custommarineproducts.com/marine-solar-panels.html

 

[Don L]

Issue is the 500w panels may not be 500w. There is no labeling except Amazon ad.

Peter

I know. But that is same thing as any "from China" product. But in this case my point is this application if it is "only" 450W that is fine.

My way isn't the only way. OK with me for others to do different on their boat. I still have my 640W of rigid panels and an upper end MPPT controller. I think the most I have ever seen out of them is about 500W.

 

[backinblue]

For what it's worth, the installer of my system recommended against flexible panels unless you need them to flex. He said for the same quality panel, the flexible ones are more expensive. But more importantly, any panel loses efficiency as it heats up. A rigid panel with an air space underneath will not get as hot and therefore will produce more power on a hot summer day.

 

[Don L]

For what it's worth, the installer of my system recommended against flexible panels unless you need them to flex. He said for the same quality panel, the flexible ones are more expensive. But more importantly, any panel loses efficiency as it heats up. A rigid panel with an air space underneath will not get as hot and therefore will produce more power on a hot summer day.

all that is true in theory, but in the application being asked about isn't an issue really

 

[psneeld]

Other than "mounting on the radar arch"....the non-return of the OP doesn't give us much insight to "the application".....

 

[backinblue]

all that is true in theory, but in the application being asked about isn't an issue really

Probably true but there is some discussion in this thread about flexible vs. rigid, so I thought it was worth mentioning because perhaps not everyone knows these things.

 

[backinblue]

Same applies to my current LFP cheap house batteries that were $309/ea for 100ah. Maybe not best, but been fine so far for 6 months so why would I have gotten the $800-1000 ones?

Because quite often you get what you pay for. Many years ago at a power squadron course, the CG instructor made the statement "When purchasing equipment for a boat, always buy the best you can for whatever function you need." I wouldn't say that everyone should follow that 100% of the time, but the point is well-taken. When you rely on something to perform on a boat in less than ideal conditions, the cheapest option is not likely the best.

Also, cheap and inexpensive are not the same things. You should always avoid "cheap". Inexpensive may be ok depnding on your use case.

 

[Don L]

Also, cheap and inexpensive are not the same things. You should always avoid "cheap". Inexpensive may be ok depnding on your use case.

And expensive doesn't mean best or even good.

Using the example of my LFP batteries. Tear downs of the "cheap" $300/100ah batteries doesn't show much difference to the $800-1000 ones.

Lots of times the expensive stuff carries the best warranty. Is that because they need to pay for the returns???

 

[backinblue]

Lots of times the expensive stuff carries the best warranty. Is that because they need to pay for the returns???

That is twisted logic. If they had to pay for lots of returns, wouldn't they have a lesser warranty? They have a better warranty because they have confidence in the quality of their product and they experience fewer returns so they can offer a better warranty.

I wish you the best with all your cheap gear. I hope it never lets you down.

 

[mvweebles]

Paying top dollar doesn't guarantee top quality. But it's difficult to get top quality without paying top dollar. Possible, but not common.

That said, finding decent quality at a reasonable price - value - isn't too difficult either. But in this case where the shady Amazon resellers are not providing any technical specs, well, sounds like a lousy place to save a couple hundred bucks.

DonL - glad it worked out for you, especially since replacement in the Bahamas would be a PITA.

Peter

 

[koliver]

I am looking to add a small solar panel to the radar arch to keep the house battery charged and the fridge running while on a mooring.
I have a Mainship Pilot 34 softtop.

Suggestions on vendor and panel size are welcome.

Thanks

Your location is at approximately the same latitude as me, so you should be OK with a similar setup. Search for my installation 3 or 4 years ago.
I hung a pair of stiff panels from my upper rails. One is facing the sun if the other is not, and there is enough wattage to keep my fridge happy while at anchor.
I looked at flexible, but their installatio would have been awkward, they are generally too small and they cost 2x as much per available watt.
I wouldn't think a radar arch would preent enough space for a decent mounting, but you give us nothing to go by.
Good luck with your installation.

 

[O C Diver]

Your location is at approximately the same latitude as me, so you should be OK with a similar setup. Search for my installation 3 or 4 years ago.
I hung a pair of stiff panels from my upper rails. One is facing the sun if the other is not, and there is enough wattage to keep my fridge happy while at anchor.
I looked at flexible, but their installatio would have been awkward, they are generally too small and they cost 2x as much per available watt.
I wouldn't think a radar arch would preent enough space for a decent mounting, but you give us nothing to go by.
Good luck with your installation.

https://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s31/my-new-solar-system-44588.html

Ted

 

[Don L]

I wish you the best with all your cheap gear. I hope it never lets you down.

Even though I know you really don't mean that in a kind way, thanks

None of my "cheap" gear has ever failed in all years and miles. Of course that mean be because unlike you I don't assume expensive v stuff is high quality and less expensive is poor quality


I hope your wallet never lets you down

 

[Delta Riverat]

I have one of those cheap Renogy 100 watt solar kits on my shed roof. Still working fine after 4 years.

 

[Fletcher500]

I have Solbian Flex panels on a Bim. They are $, but their output is high and a lot of long term sailing cruisers have been using them and reporting good results which is why I went that direction. Cruisers Forum is a good place to get info on panels as the sailing crowd is more advanced in this area.

 

[twistedtree]

If you are going to the trouble of adding solar, I would suggest installed the most possible within physical & financial constraints. Even if you only need X today, you will find having more to be very useful.


In my experience, a significant part of the cost/effort is the installation, and it's a small increment to add max solar vs min solar. Install a quality MPPT charge controller, again to maximize harvesting of available power. There are scattered reports of bargain "MPPT" chargers that are not MPPT, and chargers that emit lots of electrical noise causing VHF and other issues. And some do a much better job than others with MPPT tracking. Victron MPPT chargers are really very good, reasonably priced, and there is a size to fit nearly any application. They actually have a ridiculous number of different models.

 

[rslifkin]

If you are going to the trouble of adding solar, I would suggest installed the most possible within physical & financial constraints. Even if you only need X today, you will find having more to be very useful.


In my experience, a significant part of the cost/effort is the installation, and it's a small increment to add max solar vs min solar. Install a quality MPPT charge controller, again to maximize harvesting of available power. There are scattered reports of bargain "MPPT" chargers that are not MPPT, and chargers that emit lots of electrical noise causing VHF and other issues. And some do a much better job than others with MPPT tracking. Victron MPPT chargers are really very good, reasonably priced, and there is a size to fit nearly any application. They actually have a ridiculous number of different models.

Agreed. It's pretty rare to be able to fit more solar than you could reasonably make use of on a boat.

 

[mvweebles]

Victron MPPT chargers are really very good, reasonably priced, and there is a size to fit nearly any application. They actually have a ridiculous number of different models.

Victron is great, but I recommended EPever up-thread for a couple reasons. The OP seemed to want something fairly simple. Where VIctron excels is as part of a system with various integrated components. The EPever units have an LCD display built into them whereas the Victron units require Bluetooth capability and an App. EPever white-labels equipment for Outback which is considered a quality brand in the 'overlander' set. They are very stable controllers.

One upgrade for the OP - consider a Victron SmartShunt. Yes, may mean it now makes sense to go VIctron for the MPPT (and Inverter), but having a smart shunt is, in my opinion, the single most useful upgrade after going solar. It gives you an incredible amount of status information.

Peter

https://www.amazon.com/Controller-D...fos.006c50ae-5d4c-4777-9bc0-4513d670b6bc&th=1

 

[Bmarler]

Smart shunts are indeed very cool. I have the balmar version and it networks with the smart gauge and the alternator regulator. The app for doing the setup and monitoring is terrific. Tons of information in the palm of your hand.
If balmar made mppt controllers I’d probably use them as well. But they don’t.
And Victron doesn’t make an alternator regulator. I feel like these two outfits are missing out by not having the full suite of charging options available to use on their networks. Victron is closest, with the myriad of products they sell, if they added a good alternator regulator I bet they’d sell well.