Some kind of sealant on sanitary hoses

[Frank60]

I'm in the process of changing my sanitary hoses as they've started to smell. The hoses on the pump out have some kind of sealant on them. I'm guessing this isn't original but added by a PO trying to eliminate odor. The sealant is grey and rubbery. Its pretty tough stuff. Way more dense than silicone. I couldn't break off a piece with my hand.

Before I attempt to take these apart and maybe get myself into a real mess having to replace all of the fittings, I thought I'd see if anyone has a guess on what this stuff is and how best to deal with it.

I'm not adverse to replacing the fittings if that's ultimately the easiest way to go, but I'll have to figure out where to get the fitting that goes into the tank. The other fittings look like standard PVC fittings.

 

[sailormike]

I would try with one fitting first maybe the one you took the picture of as it looks easy to get too. I would use a ratching pvc cutter and cut the hose just past the barb to get it out of the way remove the 2 clamps and spit the hose down the middle with a sharp razor knife. you should then be able to peel hose off the barb then from there you will have a better idea what your dealing with. That sealant looks like NP1 which is a bugger to remove and work with.

I'm in the process of changing my sanitary hoses as they've started to smell. The hoses on the pump out have some kind of sealant on them. I'm guessing this isn't original but added by a PO trying to eliminate odor. The sealant is grey and rubbery. Its pretty tough stuff. Way more dense than silicone. I couldn't break off a piece with my hand.

Before I attempt to take these apart and maybe get myself into a real mess having to replace all of the fittings, I thought I'd see if anyone has a guess on what this stuff is and how best to deal with it.

I'm not adverse to replacing the fittings if that's ultimately the easiest way to go, but I'll have to figure out where to get the fitting that goes into the tank. The other fittings look like standard PVC fittings.

View attachment 119762

 

[Bacchus]

Is that unique fitting screwed into the receiving ftg on the tank or is it a press in type?
Peggie (Head,istress) & others have mentioned a type of fitting for retrofitting tanks where no access to the inside is possible. Wondering if thats what it is? I'd search TF re holding tank fittings & Headmistress and/or Google tank retrofit fittings?

Trying and experiment would be good but I might start with a common pvc fitting if accessible so that replacement is easy if the experiment buggers up the fitting but you learn enough to do it the second time and save the fitting.

I have no idea what the compound is but you might try a heat gun to see if it helps loosen / soften things enough to ease disassembly.

I have to wonder if the hose used wasn't the correct size for the ftgs and double clamps couldn't compress enough to seal. If hose slips on easy w/o heat and lube its more prone to leak.

 

[Comodave]

I think that I would try first to heat it and cut the hose off but leave enough hose to get a grip on it. Then try to rotate the hose to break the sealant loose from the fitting. Then it may slide off if you can break the seal. If not then try the other suggestions. Have fun!

 

[HeadMistress]

I've never seen hose fittings quite like the one in the photo before, nor have I ever seen a female fitting marked "waste only" on a tank, only on the flange on a deck pumpout fitting....but I can tell you it's not the Uniseal fitting Don asked about. And btw, Don...If hose slips on easy w/o heat and lube, either the hose or fitting isn't the right size...it's a common problem on European boats that use metric fittings and hoses. Hopefully that's not the case on this boat.

Since the sealant is only on the hose end of the male fittings, I'd bet at least $1 that fitting is threaded into the tank. So I'd start by cutting the hose a few inches behind the male fitting then **VERY CAREFULLY** try to unscrew the fitting from the tank. Warming it a bit may help (I always used a blow dryer...a lot safer than a heat gun). Then carefully measure the OD of the threaded end of the fitting to make sure it's a 1.5" thread-barb fitting (crossing my fingers that it is...'cuz if not, you have a problem!) and spend the few $$ it'll cost you to replace 'em all.

Btw...have you bought the new hose yet? If so, which hose did you buy?

--Peggie

 

[Frank60]

I think that I found the tank fitting. Appears to be Dometic which would be consistent with the rest of the system which is vacuflush.

https://www.environmentalmarine.com/search.php?search_query=311251&section=product

This looks like the rest of the assembly for the pump out tube:

https://www.environmentalmarine.com/holding-tank-universal-diptube-kit-310660/

Based on previous recommendations on the forum, I purchased Raritan Saniflex Odor Shield hose. I hope that I got that right.

 

[HeadMistress]

That definitely looks like the tank fitting...first time I've seen Dometic (formerly SeaLand) fittings in any color but white. Replacing the gooed up one will be a lot easier than trying to remove the goo.

If you're handy with a hole saw you can make a pumpout diptube for a fraction of Dometic's price...All you need is a 1.5" Uniseal UNISEAL and a piece of sched 80 pvc pipe (available from the plumbing dept in any big box store) that has a 1.5" OD (outer diameter) to fit inside 1.5" hose cut long enough to touch the bottom of the tank plus about 4" above the top of the tank. You'll cut the bottom of the pipe at about a 25 degree angle (any flatter can trap TP under it, any sharper leaves too much in the tank)...the extra 4" at the top becomes the pumpout hose connector. I'll be glad to provide more detailed instructions if you'd like to send me a PM.

Raritan SaniFlex is the top rated hose...a great choice. And btw, replacing hoses doesn't have to be messy stinky job These instructions should have been included in the current edition of my book but were omitted:

Before you begin, flush a LOT of clean fresh water through the entire system including the tank.

Start with the highest connections, duct tape or plug the ends as you remove each one.

Warming the old hoses a bit (I always used a blow dryer) will make them easier to get off the fittings.

Put a plastic waste basket liner under each connection to catch any spills.

Warming the hose also makes it easier to get the new hose onto the fittings. Lubricate the inside of the hose and the outside of the fitting with a little K-Y...it's a water soluble surgical jelly that dries out and is also much slipperier than dishwashing liquid.

And I'm sure you already know that all hose connections should be double clamped, with screws 180 degrees apart...or at least 90 degrees if access makes 180 impossible.

--Peggie

 

[Frank60]

Peggie,

Thanks for the instructions. I've been following your posts for quite a while as I've already done a bunch of work on my vacuflush system. That's how I knew about the raritan hose. There was another thread that I read recently where you mentioned the KY. So already picked up some of that and have my heat gun ready to go. I'm thinking that maybe 150 degrees on the heat gun should be about right to soften without distorting the hose.

The hardest part (other than the connections with adhesive) is that I need to pull out the toilets and pull up the floor flange to access that connection. No way to get to it from underneath. I ordered new floor flange seals for the toilets.

I also got one of the radiator hose pullers that several folks recommended on one of the other threads.

While I'm doing this, I'm thinking of eliminating the Y connection on the pump out configuration that goes to the overboard discharge. I'm on a lake and can't use it anyway. Less connections. It would be easy enough for someone to reconfigure if the boat is ever moved to the ocean.

Thanks again and to the others who replied. I think that I have a solid game plan.

 

[firehoser75]

Frank,
I had success using a small amount of sealant on the sanitary hose connections on my boat. I used a product called Rector Seal #5 (yellow colour). It will help the hose slip on, and when it dries, will help seal against any "small" leaks (in other words makes a better seal). The hose will come off easily when it is time to remove. You do not use anywhere near the amount shown in your photo.
It may be "overkill", but I did not want ANY leaking of sewage.

 

[HeadMistress]

I wouldn't struggle with removing the hose and goo from the fitting, I'd just cut the hose and replace the bloomin' fitting. Dometic fittings are way overpriced, but you don't have to replace it with a Dometic fitting, you can use any PVC 1.5" thread x 1.5" barb.

I've never used any sealant on hose connections, just a healthy wrap of Teflon tape on the threads and double clamps on the hoses. Never had a single connection leak.

I'm thinking of eliminating the Y connection on the pump out configuration that goes to the overboard discharge. I'm on a lake and can't use it anyway. Less connections. It would be easy enough for someone to reconfigure if the boat is ever moved to the ocean.

Good idea!

--Peggie