Spring 2022, My Old Mainship Projects

[Gdavid]

I'm starting this thread to track and possibly commiserate and solicit ideas as I prepare for my second season with my old Mainship 34.

Consider this to be my disclaimer: I'm not doing anything novel or grand, it is really just mundane maintenance and repairs but in the past I've enjoyed reading and discussing other's similar projects and sharing my own. I've benefited from others' lessons learned and perhaps I'll have some information worth sharing about how I go about a repair or sourced parts from.

Last year, I hauled the boat for about 3.5 weeks to address the higher priority findings from the survey, (the yard that short hauled for the survey didn't have room at the time for me to at the time of closing). Now I'm working on the next level of priorities and other items that have come to my attention over the past year. I hauled the boat in October, winterized and shrink wrapped it but it has been too cold or I have been too lazy to make much progress since.

1. Replace thru-hulls above the waterline, they are a mix of plastic and marelon and I'm replacing them all with bronze. This was on the survey and I only replaced one last year that was right at the waterline. This will take care of the remaining 8.

2. Replace sink drain fitting in the head, this fell apart when removing the line for project #1. Minor issue but listing is separate so I can cross something off.

3. Re-bed swim platform supports. There are 4 cast brackets the secure braces for the swim platform to the bottom of the transom, the caulking is probably original on all.

4. Replace swim platform braces, the stainless tubing for each 4 support is damaged from lack of cathodic protection.

5. Install new 12V panel and migrate wiring to new panel. I just don't care for the existing fused switches at the lower helm, it is a bit of a rat's nest of wiring behind the helm and I want to move most everything to a breaker panel.

6. Complete fabrication of anchor platform and install with new windlass. I started this project during my haul last year and just didn't finish. Retrieving the anchor by hand really isn't bad but I need to get this project done.

7. Repair starboard gunnel. 3 foot section of spider cracking of gelcoat inside of rub rail. A previous owner smacked a piling hard amidships, this will require substrate repair of the fiberglass and gelcoat work. Looking forward to getting this done.

8. Straighten Stanchion, the forward port stanchion was bent upon purchase, I need to straighten or replace.

9. Replace life lines, the vinyl covered life lines are rust stained, the cable is compromised and a safety hazard. The replacements won't have the coving to trap in moisture. I should have addressed this sooner.

10. Repair cockpit core, there are two distinct soft spots in the cockpit, one at the base of the latter, one behind the sliding door to the saloon (salon?).

11. Kiwi grip cockpit and flybridge deck. After repairing the cockpit, this will clean up the appearance of both areas.

12. Install autopilot. This can wait until the boat is back in the water but this is a nice to have - borderline fun project that will be a break from the repairs. I'm doing this in conjunction with adding a MFD to the lower station which can control the AP as well.

13. Replace center support bearing, I don't know if it is back or not but it is probably due, I have the new one on hand but need to have the prop pulled or to borrow a prop puller to knock this out.

14. Replace exhaust manifold?, haven't made a decision on this one yet but I don't see any records of it being done before and it is probably due.

No big deal right? Hoping to launch by end of April.

 

[Jeff F]

It looks like a great list. Nice to see these boats being modernized and maintained.

WRT the midship bearing is the existing one bad? There are several older threads here discussing them.

 

[Comodave]

A friend had a Mainship 34 with the stanchions and wire handrails. His were in poor shape. We talked about replacing the wire at the top of the stanchions with a S/S rail. It looked fairly easy to do since the curve isn’t too tight. Using fittings on the top of the stanchions and take the new rail down to the deck on the aft end. It would help the strength of the stanchions since they are basically standalone with the wire. Unfortunately he had to move and sold the boat before he got to it. We did Kiwigrip on our last boat and really liked it.

We have a huge list for this winter and are chugging through it. We got tired of working in the cold all winter so we put our new boat in heated storage this winter and love it. So much nicer.

Have fun with your list and keep us informed.

 

[boomerang]

Do you wanna hear my thoughts on your planned upgrades? Well I'm going to tell you anyway!
Regarding:
Item #3 Rebeding platform supports. We had to do the same. Most of the 1/4" stainless fasteners were leaking & eaten up with corrosion. Plan on replacing all plus I added plywood backing plates rather than the tiny 1/4" washers mainship used behind the fastening nuts for the swim platform braced, lifeline stanchions and even the cleats. Gee wiz mainship, what were you thinking??? I also added an egg zinc to the 2 outboard supports and tied them to the rest of the bonding system.

Item # 5: if you could mount your new DC breaker panel on the far right side of the helm adjacent to the wheel, all of the wires will be long enough to reach the breakers from the old switch location. If IRC, I installed a a 12 breaker panel and still ended up having to add a separate panel for all of the pumps.

#6: I'd add an anchor washdown while I was at it. There's no way we'd do without a windlass or a washdown.

# 8: I think I'll be able to help you with that. It involves me cleaning out my shed enough to access the overhead loft and find all of the old stuff we didn't use. That'll cost you a 6-pack

#10 pretty sure the salon door is going to have to come out, as well as the frame. More than likely, you'll have to cut the bad glass out to access & replace the rotten wood that's allowing the door to sag. Not a big deal but kind of a pain.

#14: yeah, not cheap but cheaper than what happens if it fails. You'll sleep better with 1 less worry.

#15: Get to work!

 

[Gdavid]

Do you wanna hear my thoughts on your planned upgrades? Well I'm going to tell you anyway!
Regarding:
Item #3 Rebeding platform supports. We had to do the same. Most of the 1/4" stainless fasteners were leaking & eaten up with corrosion. Plan on replacing all plus I added plywood backing plates rather than the tiny 1/4" washers mainship used behind the fastening nuts for the swim platform braced, lifeline stanchions and even the cleats. Gee wiz mainship, what were you thinking??? I also added an egg zinc to the 2 outboard supports and tied them to the rest of the bonding system.

Item # 5: if you could mount your new DC breaker panel on the far right side of the helm adjacent to the wheel, all of the wires will be long enough to reach the breakers from the old switch location. If IRC, I installed a a 12 breaker panel and still ended up having to add a separate panel for all of the pumps.

#6: I'd add an anchor washdown while I was at it. There's no way we'd do without a windlass or a washdown.

# 8: I think I'll be able to help you with that. It involves me cleaning out my shed enough to access the overhead loft and find all of the old stuff we didn't use. That'll cost you a 6-pack

#10 pretty sure the salon door is going to have to come out, as well as the frame. More than likely, you'll have to cut the bad glass out to access & replace the rotten wood that's allowing the door to sag. Not a big deal but kind of a pain.

#14: yeah, not cheap but cheaper than what happens if it fails. You'll sleep better with 1 less worry.

#15: Get to work!

Glad you chimed in, curious how your boat shopping is going and what is peaking your interest.

3. The fasteners for those brackets are a mix of machine screws and wood screws, it appears that about half go into stringers, which is a really dumb idea of Mainship's. I'll probably trim enough access to put a backing block and use machine screws for all. I'll just put egg zincs on all of the supports, it took 40+ years for these to fail, this will last plenty long.

5. I'm leaning towards mounting it in the cabinet that is under the pass through window to the galley. When I bought the boat, it had the charger/inverter mounted here, I replaced it but used the same location. It takes up what would otherwise be great storage space but it works well, I can check the inverter status with quickly by opening the cabinet and it is in a safe and dry location. The main 12V buss for my house/engine bank is located here. I'm also going to run new 4/0 from this buss forward to under the V-berth where it will power the windlass. I certainly don't need this size but a thruster is in the plans eventually and it will use the same feed.

6. It may have to wait till later, I've done a little brainstorming but probably won't get it complete at install. The platform is hollow fiberglass and I will leave a chase to run tubing underneath to the roller. I have a fresh water hose mounted in a recessed access on the bow now, I'll eventually install a sea water pump and supply it with that instead.

8. A stanchion would be worth much more than a 6pack to me, and if you find one, I'd be glad to settle up. Drop me a line if you boat searches land you in my neck of the woods as well.

10. The bulkhead under the salon door was repaired already, looks like a decent job was done but I can't understand why this wasn't taken care of at the same time. I believe the previous owner hired everything out and either this was just over budget or is more recent damage. I imagine the damage was already there but he was just done spending money on it. A lot of the "repairs" could have been done much better from what I've seen.

14. I'll probably knock it out prior to launch, I need to get the parts I've already bought installed before I can justify buying more boat parts, hopefully it doesn't have a long lead time.

Great hearing from you.

 

[Dwk]

Exhaust can Elbow

At the end of last season I detected an exhaust smell and thought it was the manifold leaking.After dismantling the end caps and inspection the inside of the manifold all looked very clean,no cracks and the mating surface to the block also looked ok. I found the exhaust can elbow attached to the turbo and exhaust riser had deteriorated at the riser. When I removed the clamp the can lip fell apart at the riser junction but the other end attached to the turbo was still solid, so off to Transatlantic Diesel we went for parts.

After many visit to the TAD website I was curious as to what the physical location looked like. Upon arrival we were greeted by two friendly labradors and pleasant fellow( I believe it was Mr TAD) that asked how he could help. When I produced the can he nodded,walk a few steps down a parts isle and handed me the exhaust elbow,two clamps and gaskets then directed us upstairs to pay Sheri the parts lady that has worked there for 32 years out of the 42 years with Mr TAD. The inside is full of everything diesel one can imagine ready for sale and the outside is lots of engine blocks,transmissions,radiators,cooling fans,tractors,construction equipment collected over 42 years. Patty started to take photos outside,then Mr TAD announced no photos.She stopped immediately until he said “just kidding ,snap away”.

 

[Gdavid]

At the end of last season I detected an exhaust smell and thought it was the manifold leaking.After dismantling the end caps and inspection the inside of the manifold all looked very clean,no cracks and the mating surface to the block also looked ok. I found the exhaust can elbow attached to the turbo and exhaust riser had deteriorated at the riser. When I removed the clamp the can lip fell apart at the riser junction but the other end attached to the turbo was still solid, so off to Transatlantic Diesel we went for parts.

After many visit to the TAD website I was curious as to what the physical location looked like. Upon arrival we were greeted by two friendly labradors and pleasant fellow( I believe it was Mr TAD) that asked how he could help. When I produced the can he nodded,walk a few steps down a parts isle and handed me the exhaust elbow,two clamps and gaskets then directed us upstairs to pay Sheri the parts lady that has worked there for 32 years out of the 42 years with Mr TAD. The inside is full of everything diesel one can imagine ready for sale and the outside is lots of engine blocks,transmissions,radiators,cooling fans,tractors,construction equipment collected over 42 years. Patty started to take photos outside,then Mr TAD announced no photos.She stopped immediately until he said “just kidding ,snap away”.

TAD is a great resource I'm thankful for. My father and I became familiar with them when he owned a MarkIII mainship with the 6.354 with the aluminum manifold and integrated heat exchanger (I always call it the wrong thing, so I won't even attempt to name it).

My boat had that elbow replaced sometime in it's recent past, it was sourced from TAD and installed by the local mechanic. It leaked exhaust at the joint when the boat was sea trialed, the owner (who wasn't on site) agreed to have the mechanic, who ran the boat for the sea trial, remove the insulation so I could inspect and by this point, everything was hot and the leak went away. After settling on the boat, I took it apart, dressed up the turbo side of this coupling with a file and installed a new metal crush gasket (sourced from TAD), this fixed the problem properly. It should have been done properly by the mechanic the first time but that isn't any of my business, I just know not to recommend him and I'm thankful I can do my own work.

 

[boomerang]

At the end of last season I detected an exhaust smell and thought it was the manifold leaking.After dismantling the end caps and inspection the inside of the manifold all looked very clean,no cracks and the mating surface to the block also looked ok. I found the exhaust can elbow attached to the turbo and exhaust riser had deteriorated at the riser. When I removed the clamp the can lip fell apart at the riser junction but the other end attached to the turbo was still solid, so off to Transatlantic Diesel we went for parts.

After many visit to the TAD website I was curious as to what the physical location looked like. Upon arrival we were greeted by two friendly labradors and pleasant fellow( I believe it was Mr TAD) that asked how he could help. When I produced the can he nodded,walk a few steps down a parts isle and handed me the exhaust elbow,two clamps and gaskets then directed us upstairs to pay Sheri the parts lady that has worked there for 32 years out of the 42 years with Mr TAD. The inside is full of everything diesel one can imagine ready for sale and the outside is lots of engine blocks,transmissions,radiators,cooling fans,tractors,construction equipment collected over 42 years. Patty started to take photos outside,then Mr TAD announced no photos.She stopped immediately until he said “just kidding ,snap away”.

David, I just listened to your voicemail...glad you got your exhaust conundrum solved.
Yep, that place is a trip. Tons of new parts inside, tons and tons of used parts outside and (what looks like to me) countless tons of junk semi-organized outside, too.
You're lucky. You got to see Marcus! He's kind of like the wise and powerful wizard of OZ. He rarely makes his presence known. I did coax him out of his office a couple of times when I had a Perkins questions. One was about converting my new exhaust manifold to be cooled on the freshwater side, to which he replied don't bother but if it made me feel better, I could flush it out once in a while. That suited me fine!

 

[Dwk]

Flush valve

Shawn,TAD was most interesting! Marcus was most willing to answer all questions without hesitation. BTW Did you purchase the freshwater flush valve you added from TAD?

 

[boomerang]

No, it was a 1 1/2" 3-way valve for swimming pools. It was constructed out of maerelon & I threaded it directly into the output of the seawater strainer. 1 input was from the strainer, switch the valve and it changed the input to a hose fitting that I stuck in a bucket of fresh water for flushing.

 

[Gdavid]

I came across this spring project list over the rainy weekend and figured I could update it. I got about half the list accomplished and dumped the boat back in the water in May, still plugging away at some stuff and put others off till the coming off season.

1. Replace thru-hulls above the waterline.
Done

2. Replace sink drain fitting in the head
Done

3. Re-bed swim platform supports.
Done

4. Replace swim platform braces.
Done

5. Install new 12V panel and migrate wiring to new panel.
Done, need to migrate a couple more circuits but I love it, also ran a new circuit to the bridge and cleaned up the rat's nest up there

6. Complete fabrication of anchor platform
Done.

7. Repair starboard gunnel.
Done

8. Straighten Stanchion
Not done

9. Replace life lines
Still not done

10. Repair cockpit core
Not even close to starting

11. Kiwi grip cockpit and flybridge deck. After repairing the cockpit, this will clean up the appearance of both areas.
Nope, not done

12. Install autopilot.
Done, love it, love it, love it

13. Replace center support bearing.
Not done, probably not needed, just greased it, just another part in a box.

14. Replace exhaust manifold?
In progress, currently off, deciding between rebuilding or replacing the turbo. Also pulled the aftercooler apart, it was appalling, couldn't have been cooling charge air temp and choking raw water flow.

Pulling the exhaust apart while the remnants of Ian pass by seems like good timing. My aftercooler pressure tested ok, I have more cleaning to do but will probably reuse it for now, I found a replacement source and will probably replace in the off season. I am leaning towards using a Chinese H1C turbo knockoff, my oil seals in the turbo have failed and I don't know if it is worth rebuilding.

I am trying to pace myself and remembering to look back at the completed projects for perspective.

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. G. Ooooh. Nasty. I'll bet you $1 to a doughnut that while you HAVE crossed things off your "to do" list, you've added a dozen more. Such is the nemesis of a list maker...

 

[Gdavid]

Greetings,
Mr. G. Ooooh. Nasty. I'll bet you $1 to a doughnut that while you HAVE crossed things off your "to do" list, you've added a dozen more. Such is the nemesis of a list maker...

Hard to imagine how water was passing through that mess at all, it is embarrassing.

Yeah, the list grows quickly, I try to keep the needed maintenance list separate from the "wants" as well as limit the parts I order ahead of time. I am really bad about that.

 

[kthoennes]

Our Mainship is completely different (cruiser/white tennis shoe, 1996) but this has been an interesting thread for me even so. On the thru hulls, yep, did the same thing, the old ones were cheap plastic. I replaced all the vent line caps also (two water, fuel, hold tank) which were also cheap plastic, with chromed bronze. I have to say -- and this will be the only time I say this -- for the first time Mainship designed the boat and access panels so I could get to all of them inside the hull, including an access panel in the master berth ceiling for the water tank vent near the aft stairs. At least for that job. Placement of that last one is terrible though, it's on the aft corner of the boat and if I rub against a dock post the wrong way it instantly breaks off.

Still have to hire a trained spider money to change the port fuel filter though.

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. k. Careful what you ask for...

 

[Gdavid]

My intercooler died shortly after my cleaning of it. I knew there were some thin spots in the cast iron housing of my Bowman intercooler but I thought I had enough metal to last another season. I was wrong, upon inspection a week ago, I had two spots of brown deposits emerging through my beautiful paint job.

I had been shopping for intercoolers, knowing that ai had at most another season and found a aftermarket solution from lenco for $1600. This was better than the $3k alternative and an easy decision. It is one piece, not serviceable which is a little disappointing but it bolted right in and I'm okay with the decision.

The main reason I am posting is to share some pictures of my turbo replacement. I bought a eBay knockoff of a Holset H1C to replace the stock Holset that was originally on my Perkins. The primary difference is the exhaust connection. It is 2.5" nominal versus 3" so V-band transition is required. Aside from this, it was a direct swap. The oil feed and drain flange bolts need to be replaced with metric and the intake of the turbo is 1/2" larger but this was pretty easy.

 

[PM]

I commend you on your list and positive attitude, especially the part about being ready for the water by the end of April. Here in Northern Wisconsin we don't make any serious plans to spend any time on the boat until mid May and really cant get much done until June.

I would make one recommendation though. Since your swim platform needs mounting attention why not remove it, take it home and rebuild it in your home shop and re mount it in the spring.

pete

 

[Gdavid]

This is a run-on thread, much like my sentences but I did want to follow up on a couple repairs mentioned here now that I have run the boat a bit.

I'm quite happy with the turbo replacement, really cost effective. I replaced it for two reasons: 1. journal in the turbo was pitted and I believe allowing oil to leak into the compressor side, I could probably get a rebuild kit but this wouldn't solve problem, number 2; The hot side housing had slagged off quite a bit of rust and the worse place was the flange to the exhaust can elbow (see post #6 from Dwk). I already had a nice newish can elbow thanks to the previous owner and TAD, but the turbo side of coupling was getting pretty rough. If this failed and broke off, I would fill my engine room with hot exhaust pretty much immediately. The turbo provides no more power, maybe if I messed with the injector pump but that wasn't my goal in the first place.

The intercooler replacement gives me piece of mind, but I'm not sure if I would recommend it. You cannot disassemble it to thoroughly clean it out or rebuild it, it also has no zinc. Flushing with barnacle buster is about the only maintenance I can do it, otherwise it is disposable.

At this point every marine specific part of component of the motor has been replaced within 5 years, the entire cooling and exhaust system so I should be able to stretch plenty of life out of this old thing with proper maintenance or rebuild the old tractor engine for under $1,500 in parts. I like the idea of a 6bta repower but as long as I can get parts for this Perkins, it is actually a heavier duty engine (sleaves) and and the parts for the bare tractor engine are cheap. The manifold I replaced prior to fulling inspecting, actually appears to be in good shape, I'll hang onto it or let it go to anyone who may need it, but I won't throw it out.

 

[tumblehome]

I bought the Lenco for my Perkins T6-354 about 12 or so years ago. It was about $1000. Like you, I have been uncomfortable that it doesn't have removable end caps. So, a couple times since it was new I removed it and flushed it out with pressurized water and then re-installed it. Just a minor step towards preventive maintenance.

 

[boomerang]

You should be all set now with all of those parts replaced. The engines are bullet proof but like you said, its just the stuff that bolts on that fails.

I can't remember if I ever mentioned to you that I opted to eliminate completely our air cooler. I saved a ton of $$ by eliminating it plus cleaned up the back of the engine without that hulking cast iron cooler bolted to it. Performance was the same since we never cruised much over 1650 anyway. I probably would've done away with the turbo, too, if it was an option.
I was a Perkins fan when we owned the Mainship but I gotta say, the non-turbo Ford Lehman in our current boat has won my admiration, too. It's a different kind of sound than the 6-354 but it's still a good sound!

 

[Gdavid]

You should be all set now with all of those parts replaced. The engines are bullet proof but like you said, its just the stuff that bolts on that fails.

I can't remember if I ever mentioned to you that I opted to eliminate completely our air cooler. I saved a ton of $$ by eliminating it plus cleaned up the back of the engine without that hulking cast iron cooler bolted to it. Performance was the same since we never cruised much over 1650 anyway. I probably would've done away with the turbo, too, if it was an option.
I was a Perkins fan when we owned the Mainship but I gotta say, the non-turbo Ford Lehman in our current boat has won my admiration, too. It's a different kind of sound than the 6-354 but it's still a good sound!

Yes, I clearly remember and thoroughly appreciate you sharing your deleted intercooler intake system. I try to follow any information shared about these engines in marine installations especially lessons learned, parts sources and worthwhile upgrades. I recall that you also had a "backwards" (non-standard rotation), like mine is.

I did seriously consider deleting the intercooler, I run my engine around the same speeds (1500-1700) as the boat speed hits a plateau while noise levels just increase. If it could run ~12 knots without sounding so angry, it might be worth it on occasion but realistically it maxes out around 10.5 or so given the average growth on hull and prop.

Somewhat humorously in retrospect, we ran my father's old mainship with a T6.354.4 at 2200 rpm cruise because that's what the previous owner did. We just accepted the noise as the nature of the beast. I really can't recall the cruise speed, maybe 8.5 knots or so. That had the combined heat exchanger/exhaust manifold system which we were aways a bit leery of. My father did replace the bundle in it and the aluminum was pretty sound but I prefer my separate components as they are readily available.

In spite of all of the criticism of the old single cylinder stock Onan MDJA genset, mine is serving me just fine and the previous owner really did a nice job with sound deadening. I have a spare 3 cylinder, 9KW genset that I figured I would install at some point but it really doesn't seem necessary, and it happens to be a 3,600 rpm unit and dealing with the enclosure in a pretty small engine room (engine space) would probably make the enclosure a headache. I've decided to sell it, or at least try, which may be the kiss of death for my old MDJA but I'm going to do that anyway.

 

[Brent Dawson]

Do you wanna hear my thoughts on your planned upgrades? Well I'm going to tell you anyway!
Regarding:
Item #3 Rebeding platform supports. We had to do the same. Most of the 1/4" stainless fasteners were leaking & eaten up with corrosion. Plan on replacing all plus I added plywood backing plates rather than the tiny 1/4" washers mainship used behind the fastening nuts for the swim platform braced, lifeline stanchions and even the cleats. Gee wiz mainship, what were you thinking??? I also added an egg zinc to the 2 outboard supports and tied them to the rest of the bonding system.

Item # 5: if you could mount your new DC breaker panel on the far right side of the helm adjacent to the wheel, all of the wires will be long enough to reach the breakers from the old switch location. If IRC, I installed a a 12 breaker panel and still ended up having to add a separate panel for all of the pumps.

#6: I'd add an anchor washdown while I was at it. There's no way we'd do without a windlass or a washdown.

# 8: I think I'll be able to help you with that. It involves me cleaning out my shed enough to access the overhead loft and find all of the old stuff we didn't use. That'll cost you a 6-pack

#10 pretty sure the salon door is going to have to come out, as well as the frame. More than likely, you'll have to cut the bad glass out to access & replace the rotten wood that's allowing the door to sag. Not a big deal but kind of a pain.

#14: yeah, not cheap but cheaper than what happens if it fails. You'll sleep better with 1 less worry.

#15: Get to work!

Boomerang, item #3 rebedding platform supports. How tough of a job is this? I purchased a 1979 MKI 34 Mainship recently and was considering doing this. I assume you had to get down into the confined space of the bilge area in the stern to do this. It looks to be a pretty tight fit to access that area in there. Or were you able to do this all from the outside of the boat?

 

[Gdavid]

Boomerang, item #3 rebedding platform supports. How tough of a job is this? I purchased a 1979 MKI 34 Mainship recently and was considering doing this. I assume you had to get down into the confined space of the bilge area in the stern to do this. It looks to be a pretty tight fit to access that area in there. Or were you able to do this all from the outside of the boat?

You need to crawl under the back deck, there are nuts on machine screws that will just spin and spin if you are trying to remove the screws from outside. Items like the swim platform were installed by dealers and there is a significant variance on the install between boats. On mine, about half of the lower bracket hardware was actually wood screws that went into the stringers and the other screw was a machine screw with washers and a nut. On some boats, the stringers were avoided (wisely), the upper brackets are well above the stringers, so no concern there, they are also above the waterline and not as likely to leak.

 

[jleonard]

When we did ours many years ago, my first mate was the one that went inside. Then I had to pull her out. LOL
Once you get in there do everything. Reseal the exhaust outlet also. Maybe time for new exhaust hose?

 

[boomerang]

Boomerang, item #3 rebedding platform supports. How tough of a job is this? I purchased a 1979 MKI 34 Mainship recently and was considering doing this. I assume you had to get down into the confined space of the bilge area in the stern to do this. It looks to be a pretty tight fit to access that area in there. Or were you able to do this all from the outside of the boat?

It's definitely a 2-person job. The winner is on the outside with a screwdriver and a tube of sealant, one who draws the short straw gets to slither under the cockpit like a snake, up & over the lateral & athwartship stringers . The only way I could get in was remove the port cockpit hatch drain elbow, which gave me just enough clearance to get in. Once you get back there, there's pretty much room and not too uncomfortable. Oh yeah, bring a fan...it get's stuffy back there!