stuffing box on a marine trader

[paulga]

I was reading articles on stuffing box adjustment/repacking. many pictures that came up in my search have the same style as the one on marinehowto



However, I didn't see the same large packing nut or locking nut near the packing gland in the engine room.



a youtube video shows the packing gland looks like this after removing the two studs and the flange cover. so it seems the two stud nuts work as the packing nuts.



however, one previous thread confirmed there is a locking nut (for each of the two stud). The adjustment approach is to "Back the locking nuts off, tighten a quarter turn, and the drip stopped"

can someone familiar with a similar style stuffing box tell me where are the locking nuts?

 

[Comodave]

I am not sure which one of the photos is your stuffing box. If it is the second photo then the 2 studs each have 2 nuts. To adjust the box you loosen the second nut on each stud and tighten the first nut a bit. Then hold the first nut with a wrench and tighten the second, locknut, onto the first nut.

 

[paulga]

Thanks for confirming. I didn't inspect closely, there are indeed two nuts. Then the best tool should be a pair of combination wrenches?

I am not sure which one of the photos is your stuffing box. If it is the second photo then the 2 studs each have 2 nuts. To adjust the box you loosen the second nut on each stud and tighten the first nut a bit. Then hold the first nut with a wrench and tighten the second, locknut, onto the first nut.

 

[paulga]

are the green wires on photo 2 and 3 in post #1 part of the bonding system for grounding purpose? I also saw the green wires attached to the base of some through hull

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. p. Mr. C is correct on adjustment procedures. Might be the locking nut (2nd nut) was removed and never replaced BUT it IS necessary.
Yes, the green wires ARE part of the grounding system and should be ultimately connected to an external anode (zinc) which is usually affixed at the transom (outside). Bolts or studs should be on the inside to which you attach your grounding system. Keep in mind the fact that the inside studs/bolts pass through the transom to the outside anode and could be a source of leakage if not well sealed.

 

[paulga]

My husky tool box provides both metric and sae wrenches. A 9/16" wrench fits on easily, it can grab the nut but has some free play.
The 14mm wrench fits snuggly, with almost no room between the wrench and the nut. Which one is correct size?

 

[Old Sea Dog]

I would use the 14mm. I would also tighten the 2 nuts equally. ie. 1/4 turn on each.

 

[mvweebles]

You will need both wrenches. One to tighten the first nut, second wrench to tighten the lock nut (one wrench holds first nut in place, second wrench to turn the lock nut hard against the first nut). As Old Sea Dog states, important to tighten the two nuts equally so a sense of touch and feel is in order.

Please note, if the stuffing box is too tight, it will heat up when underway. Warm is okay, too hot to touch/hold will damage the shaft. If the right balance between no drip and no heat cannot be established, the stuffing material needs to be replaced. If the shaft has been damaged (scored), it will need to be repaired or resurfaced.

Peter

 

[TJM]

I would never use an adjustable wrench or channel locks on running gear. Typical running gear is SS or Bronze, both of which are very soft and easily rounded over.
The stuffing box is a fragile design. Too tight and your shaft gets scored (grooved) and will never seal, too hot and the shaft will anneal itself and bend. I would always err on the side of too loose and deal with a little water. The seal should drip a drop or two every couple of minutes at the dock and a little more underway with a spinning shaft.
As far as the sizes of nuts and wrenches? Keep in mind that these beautiful boats were made in Taiwan in the 80's. You may find alot of inconsistencies in hardware. It does not mean that they are defective or bad.
If you are struggling with the packing nut, why not remove it, clean it all up, replace the packing gland and make it perfect? You can do this in the water.

As confirmed, the green wire is part of the "bonding" system for galvanic corrosion. Make sure these connections are clean and strong. If any part of the running gear gets compromised, your Christmas bonus will be spent very quickly.

Do not confuse the green bonding wire with the AC electric green wire.

 

[paulga]

last night i checked the stuffing box, the drip rate has largely reduced to one drop per minute or so. maybe i don't need to adjust it now

I would never use an adjustable wrench or channel locks on running gear. Typical running gear is SS or Bronze, both of which are very soft and easily rounded over.
The stuffing box is a fragile design. Too tight and your shaft gets scored (grooved) and will never seal, too hot and the shaft will anneal itself and bend. I would always err on the side of too loose and deal with a little water. The seal should drip a drop or two every couple of minutes at the dock and a little more underway with a spinning shaft.
As far as the sizes of nuts and wrenches? Keep in mind that these beautiful boats were made in Taiwan in the 80's. You may find alot of inconsistencies in hardware. It does not mean that they are defective or bad.
If you are struggling with the packing nut, why not remove it, clean it all up, replace the packing gland and make it perfect? You can do this in the water.

As confirmed, the green wire is part of the "bonding" system for galvanic corrosion. Make sure these connections are clean and strong. If any part of the running gear gets compromised, your Christmas bonus will be spent very quickly.

Do not confuse the green bonding wire with the AC electric green wire.

 

[Comodave]

When you do repack it I like using Duramax stuffing. It requires a breakin period but once adjusted it shouldn’t leak at all.

 

[paulga]

I plan to repack when hauling for paint, zincs and curless bearing in summer

When you do repack it I like using Duramax stuffing. It requires a breakin period but once adjusted it shouldn’t leak at all.

 

[mickand]

Just get yourself 2 x 14mm open end/ring wrenches

 

[paulga]

I already have 2 14mm wrenches. plan to tighten a bit if the dripping becomes faster. at current rate one drop per minute, I can defer it to next season

Just get yourself 2 x 14mm open end/ring wrenches

 

[Nepidae]

Stuffing Box

Since it seems that you haven't done this before and you didn't mention when the stuffing was last replaced, I would change the packing starting new and make an entry in your ships log with the date this was done for future reference.

Make sure that you get the right size packing.

Packing and the removal tools can be purchased from Defender in CT. Here is a site reference (https://defender.com/en_us/wpt-teflon-ptfe-flax-shaft-packing).

I would stay away from any graphite type packing. I checked with Steve Di Antonio who pointed out dissimilar metals.

You will also see on the referenced page above that there are packing extraction tools. I bought both sizes and they make removing the old packing very easy. You don't want to score the shaft, or you can make a place for the shaft to leak.

It's been a while since I've changed packing since my mate wanted a dry bilge, this type of gland should leak a little when moving, so I put in dripless seals. In case you're interested, I chose Gen II seals from Lasdrop.

Good luck. Any questions PM me.

 

[paulga]

could you give a link to Duramax stuffing?

When you do repack it I like using Duramax stuffing. It requires a breakin period but once adjusted it shouldn’t leak at all.

 

[Comodave]

Just do a search for Duramax shaft packing. It will pull up multiple vendors.

 

[Nepidae]

Stuffing box

I would be reluctant to use a product which states that it doesn't leak. It is the leaking in any stuffing box except with dripless seals to leak.

Dripless seals have water injected in the shaft area to keep the shaft lubricated and cool.

Also with standard packing PTFE included, the drip of a few drops every 30sec or so while the boat is moving and no drips while stationary is the normal tightness you need.

Duramax does not offer what it is made of only what it doesn't have and by color looks like it has a base of graphite. I would not use it for fear of dissimilar metals reaction.

No packing or even dripless seals is a once and forget it install. That is a recipe for trouble.

 

[Comodave]

Our last boat had Duramax packing in it for 15 years when we bought it. I rebuilt the stuffing box primarily because the hose looked old. When I took it apart the shaft was in perfect condition where the Duramax was. So I put the same back in and ran it for about 4 years before I sold the boat. The packing would leak during the breakin period but after about 10 hours running I gradually tightened the box and the leaking stopped.