Suggestions for pulling anchor without windlass?

[CharlieO.]

What are different options for pulling the anchor without a windlass if needed?

I've seen the anchor ball where you kind of drive around in a big circle, would that work on a slow boat? Right now I've got 1" anchor line with about 15' 3/8 chain set up to drop if needed.

Still trying to find a dock space for this Friday on the mid to upper Hudson river when we make our way North to the Champlain canal.

Thanks.

 

[Comodave]

Really strong arms??? Maybe invite Arnold along. Sorry I have no experience with the anchor and ball retrieving system.

 

[rslifkin]

Generally you'd pull by hand until the rode is vertical, then cleat it off. Either drive forward over the anchor a bit or back down on it a few times until it breaks free. Then you'll be able to pull it up the rest of the way.

 

[jleonard]

If heavy, grab the rode and walk aft rather than using your arms and back.
once vertical and tight, I always first use reverse to try to break it free. That usually does the trick. If not then I'll go forward on it.
15 feet of chain and the anchor should not be too difficult to haul up.
1 inch anchor line is a little overkill IMO. 5/8 or 3/4 would be easier to manage.

 

[DNT99611]

I see no reason you could not pull the anchor with a ball. I see 30-40 foot boats doing it in this area. You are going to need a pretty good size ball to float everything.

 

[CharlieO.]

If heavy, grab the rode and walk aft rather than using your arms and back.
once vertical and tight, I always first use reverse to try to break it free. That usually does the trick. If not then I'll go forward on it.
15 feet of chain and the anchor should not be too difficult to haul up.
1 inch anchor line is a little overkill IMO. 5/8 or 3/4 would be easier to manage.

I agree, that’s what came on the boat when we purchased it. The line has a thimble on it and a shackle attaching it to the chain. I had a heck of a time getting it through the deck fitting from the chain locker. I have the chain and shackle on deck for now with just the line going into the locker so it’s not hassle when I need to drop it.

 

[Blissboat]

If you have a deckhand, have them ready to uncleat the rode and take it in as you motor up over the hook. Once the rode is vertical, cleat it off again and then coast forward or, if necessary, power forward enough to break the hook loose. Once it's free, stop the boat, go up to the bow yourself and help your deckhand finish hoisting the rode, chain and hook up onto the pulpit or roller.

This can all be done singlehanded too, just a bit more slowly. Use your legs as well as arms and back muscles, and be ready to cleat it off for a minute or so, if you need to recover.

Jay is right that a 1" rode is overdoing things - I would feel very secure with 5/8", and that is a more manageable size for gripping, heaving, coiling and storing.

 

[Comodave]

Splice the new smaller line to the chain so it will fit through easier.

 

[RedRascal]

If you are talking about breaking it loose then +1 on prior posts saying taking in slack so in essence you are at a 1:1 scope or rode is straight down from the boat then using the boat to break it loose. I like to just pull forward a bit since the boat is already going that direction from pulling in the rode.

I am guessing your anchor and chain probably have a combined weight around 40-50 pounds. If pulling that much weight is not favorable to your back, arms and/or hands then one option could be a Z-Pulley system that runs back to a mid-ship cleat. Here is an example from the mountain climbing world
https://www.alpin-ism.com/knowledge...evasse-rescue-and-snow-belay-knowledge-part-2

and an example from the ATV world
Free An ATV With The “Z” : The Maine

They look a little fiddly but once you practice a few times you can set them up quickly. A windlass is the better solution but if you need something this could work.

 

[Bacchus]

Splice the new smaller line to the chain so it will fit through easier.

Agree with Dave. Chain splice w 3 strand not too difficult. Give it a try snd if you dont like the looks cut it off and repeat.
The second attemp is almost always much neater.
Lots of online video help.

 

[CharlieO.]

New anchor line spliced directly to chain is definitely on my to do list. Once we get to our summer slip I can start working down that list.
We bought this bought to learn with and we are learning a lot. Definitely next boat we will try to find a more active cruising boat rather than one that was mostly marina bound before purchasing.

 

[Simi 60]

Use the handle that came with the windlass and go manual.

No way we are pulling our anchor by hand.

 

[Simi 60]

.

I am guessing your anchor and chain probably have a combined weight around 40-50 pounds.

Put an extra zero on it for us
Anchor is 150lb
Chain is 3lb/ft
First mark is 150ft and usual snubber point

 

[CharlieO.]

Use the handle that came with the windlass and go manual.

No way we are pulling our anchor by hand.

I have no windlass installed yet. I am currently shopping for one though.

 

[jgwinks]

I have 150 of 3/8" chain and a 66# Bruce. I don't think I'll be pulling that up by hand. One of the things I stole off my old sailboat when I sold it was a 4 part block and tackle (boom vang if you're familiar). I put a chain hook on it so I can pull the chain back to a midship or aft cleat if I have to. Kind of like how we did it before I put a windlass on the sailboat, I ran the anchor line back to a cockpit winch and cranked it up with that. Chain was cut to make it almost to the winch so I only had to winch the nylon line.

 

[Simi 60]

I have no windlass installed yet. I am currently shopping for one though.

Well there's something to add on the section criteria
Manual backup and an above deck installation

Something like the Maxwell HWC 2500 or Muir cougar would be a good choice if you are being serious.
And upgrade the chain , shackles and anchor while at it.

Overkill, possibly but no one complained about too much windlass, chain or anchor when it all turns to custard @ 2am.

 

[CharlieO.]

Absolutely Simi,
If I really wanted to go all out I'd build up my fore deck and mount a heavy duty hydraulic unit. But knowing we plan to sell at some point I don't want to have 10% of my boat value tied up in the electric windlass yet.

 

[Hippocampus]

We carry a block and tackle as part of our safety equipment. Bride is small (4’10”) and 1/2 my weight. Should windlass fail would use boat to get to up and down. Then use two dock lines. Attach block/tackle to one and to chain just aft the roller. Use it to pull in 4-5’ of chain. Secure it using the other dock line. Repeat until just dealing with short length of chain and anchor. Now down to 50-75lbs which can be manhandled.

Btw- our windlass allows insertion of a long handle and sufficient mechanical advantage above only necessary if windlass is frozen

 

[Arc]

I actually removed chain as a precaution. I could not lift 30’ of chain plus a 33lb anchor. I am not strong enough and only travel with Mrs. I went to 15’ and I can handle it if I have capstan failure

 

[bowball]

You guys are making me cry thinking about this scenario! I have 400’ of 3/8” (10mm) and a 100lb anchor. If my windlass fails, it’s getting a buoy on it and I’m letting it sink for later recovery.

Unless there is a genius idea out there?

 

[Ken E.]

Following this...unlike most other systems on the boat, I have no windlass backup plan. Like bowball, I have too much weight to raise by hand. I would buoy it and come back for it later.

 

[KnotYet]

What are different options for pulling the anchor without a windlass if needed?

I've seen the anchor ball where you kind of drive around in a big circle, would that work on a slow boat? Right now I've got 1" anchor line with about 15' 3/8 chain set up to drop if needed.

Still trying to find a dock space for this Friday on the mid to upper Hudson river when we make our way North to the Champlain canal.

Thanks.

A reasonably fit person can deck your short amount of chain with your anchor.

1. Wear gloves.
2. Sit on the deck facing and in line with the bow roller which I hope you have.
3. Hold the rode in both hands and bring it toward you using a rowing motion.
This allows you to use your back, shoulders and arm muscles and will work.
4. When you are directly over the anchor apply steady pressure and the bobbing
of the boat will work the anchor out of the bottom so you can raise it.
A second person would be handy to tail the line and chain so you don't have to.

I have used this technique to raise a 3/8" all-chain rode with a 66 lb. anchor on it.

 

[CharlieO.]

You guys are making me cry thinking about this scenario! I have 400’ of 3/8” (10mm) and a 100lb anchor. If my windlass fails, it’s getting a buoy on it and I’m letting it sink for later recovery.

Unless there is a genius idea out there?

I figured if I absolutely couldn't get my anchor free I'd call my tow company to try to pull it free.

 

[RedRascal]

Put an extra zero on it for us
Anchor is 150lb
Chain is 3lb/ft
First mark is 150ft and usual snubber point

In this case the OP is lucky with only 15 feet of chain so easier to solve for.

 

[sunchaser]

You guys are making me cry thinking about this scenario! I have 400’ of 3/8” (10mm) and a 100lb anchor. If my windlass fails, it’s getting a buoy on it and I’m letting it sink for later recovery.

Unless there is a genius idea out there?

On your vessel I'd guess you've foredeck room for a second windlass. Not an uncommon addition once into the 50'+ range with heavy anchor and rode.

One oft forgotten chore that can lessen chances of failure - windlass maintenance by the book.

 

[RedRascal]

You guys are making me cry thinking about this scenario! I have 400’ of 3/8” (10mm) and a 100lb anchor. If my windlass fails, it’s getting a buoy on it and I’m letting it sink for later recovery.

Unless there is a genius idea out there?

The dinghy crane could retrieve if conditions were favorable and crew was well coordinated. Yes it may take awhile because you may only be able to bring in 10 feet at a time but you could get it up and on the side deck. If doing a buoy for retrieval later think about a couple buoys as insurance in addition to make sure they are big enough to float the chain. A cubic foot of buoy should float about 62 pounds of chain.

 

[bowball]

The dinghy crane could retrieve if conditions were favorable and crew was well coordinated. Yes it may take awhile because you may only be able to bring in 10 feet at a time but you could get it up and on the side deck. If doing a buoy for retrieval later think about a couple buoys as insurance in addition to make sure they are big enough to float the chain. A cubic foot of buoy should float about 62 pounds of chain.

I hadn’t even thought of that! Thank you. Yes, the crane lifts 1,000 pounds and it can probably spool 20’ at a time.

 

[bowball]

On your vessel I'd guess you've foredeck room for a second windlass. Not an uncommon addition once into the 50'+ range with heavy anchor and rode.

One oft forgotten chore that can lessen chances of failure - windlass maintenance by the book.

I have two capstans but only one motor. I may be changing boats this next spring, and the new one has two separate windlasses.

 

[2savage]

New anchor line spliced directly to chain is definitely on my to do list. .

Personally I would keep the thimble and replace the shackle with a swivel anchor shackle like this one: https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|2259973|2260017|2260034&id=3291463
It will fit through your bow fitting much easier, prevent the anchor line getting twists and eliminate chafe.

 

[sunchaser]

I have two capstans but only one motor. I may be changing boats this next spring, and the new one has two separate windlasses.

I have a spare windlass motor, something to consider if you're keeping your current vessel.