Suggestions for pulling anchor without windlass?

[AZ2Loop]

The OP's boat is a 34' Double Cabin. Assuming decent health and ground tackle appropriate for the boat, it will not be a problem getting that anchor back on the boat by hand. We have a windlass, but I almost never use it. Our Rocna is 55lbs and there is 75' of chain and a couple hundred feet of line line. It is very manageable and likely more substantial than the OP's vessel would require.

Until you are directly over the anchor, there is very little weight. In our case anchored in, say 15' to 20' of water, I usually have 100 to 120 feet of rode out. From the bridge, my wife bumps the boat into forward gear a couple of times and I pull the line in as we float toward the anchor. As the line coming on board turns to chain it's still easy to pull aboard. I usually wear gloves. The chain is heavier, but at any given time I am lifting very little of it as the boat works its way to the anchor. Picture the curved chain in the water from the bow roller to the anchor on the bottom and imagine what you are lifting at any given time -- it is very little weight. Once directly above the anchor, I have the 55lb anchor and maybe another 15lbs of chain (estimate). Keep in mind, that is all in the water, and comes aboard over a bow roller, making it easier to pull. The roller helps so much. It is surprisingly easy to pull on board. When really muddy, it is much heavier, but still not bad and the mud washes off with a little forward or reverse momentum.

The windlass works fine, but I just like the challenge and knowing I can pull the anchor in if the windlass was not working. To the OP, have you tried it yet? You may find it is easier than you think.

Having said all of that, there is NO WAY I would ever attempt to lift all of the weight of the chain, line, and anchor at one time. Thankfully, that is not the task at hand when it comes to getting the anchor back on board.

Also, with many of the larger boats on this forum I would never try it, nor would I do this if I had hundreds of feet of chain out in deep water. In the depths we anchor, my 49' boat's ground tackle is manageable by hand, and I suspect the OP's 34' boat's appropriate ground tackle would be as well.
If you have back issues, maybe do not try this. However, you may find this is much easier than you think. I am not particularly strong, just an average guy, and this is not difficult with our ground tackle.

 

[Lostsailor13]

Float it with a ring and polyball

 

[Jeff F]

I've anchored hundreds of times with no windlass on sailboats up to 40', and did the Loop on a Mainship 34 with no windlass, anchoring every night. It doesn't require herculean strength.

AZ2Loop summed up the process nicely. With the rode vertical and cleated it's easy to free the anchor from bottom with a little forward throttle.

 

[fractalphreak]

A reasonably fit person can deck your short amount of chain with your anchor.

1. Wear gloves.
2. Sit on the deck facing and in line with the bow roller which I hope you have.
3. Hold the rode in both hands and bring it toward you using a rowing motion.
This allows you to use your back, shoulders and arm muscles and will work.
4. When you are directly over the anchor apply steady pressure and the bobbing
of the boat will work the anchor out of the bottom so you can raise it.
A second person would be handy to tail the line and chain so you don't have to.

I have used this technique to raise a 3/8" all-chain rode with a 66 lb. anchor on it.

Exactly. I had to do this, in the same fashion, not 4 weeks ago when our windlass failed on a trip. It was doable, and I also have a 66# anchor and all chain rode. We were in 20 ft of water at the time, so the most I had to lift at one time was approx 20 ft of chain and the anchor.

 

[CharlieO.]

OP here, thanks everyone I figure I will just pull it by hand as my plan for now. I have not tried it yet. I am of reasonable strength and questionable back somedays. Have made it this for in life using more brawn than brain, but at reaching 50 years old I am trying to work smarter not harder, I have no aversion to heavy lifting.

 

[ABfish]

The poly ball method will work assuming: the ball has enough buoyancy to float the anchor and chain, and that you can run the boat fast enough to pull the anchor rode and chain through the ring attached to the ball.

We regularly use the poly ball method with 12 ft. of 5/16 inch chain and a 13 lbs. Danforth. Once the anchor is broken free from the bottom, we increase boat speed to 8 to 10 knots to pull the anchor up to the ball. Then it's a matter of driving "down the rode" towards the ball while someone hauls in the rode.

At that point, you've still got to manhandle the anchor and chain aboard, but they are floating at the surface, suspended by the poly ball.

 

[Jmarsh203]

If you haven’t already bought a windlass than I would suggest something like a lofrans Tigres. It has a manual ratcheting lifting system that will still work even if the electric motor fails. They also make a hell of a windlass and that system isn’t used very often from the research I’ve seen.

 

[CharlieO.]

If you haven’t already bought a windlass than I would suggest something like a lofrans Tigres. It has a manual ratcheting lifting system that will still work even if the electric motor fails. They also make a hell of a windlass and that system isn’t used very often from the research I’ve seen.

I have been looking at the Lofrans 1000, I do like the idea of the manual backup if needed.

I should have a little extra time (timing tides) on my trip upriver Friday to deploy and retrieve manually.

 

[koliver]

I have been looking at the Lofrans 1000, I do like the idea of the manual backup if needed.

I should have a little extra time (timing tides) on my trip upriver Friday to deploy and retrieve manually.

Somewhere in earlier threads I have detailed the Lofran Tigress 1000 that I have, lifting a car-hauler trailer from the deep, grumbling, but still capable. I have never needed the manual capability, though I am happy to have it.

 

[RCook]

When my Lofrans Tigres's solenoid failed a few years ago, in a remote part of SE Alaska, I was unaware of the built-in manual retrieval function. So I pulled our 44lb Rocna and 5/16" chain from a depths around 45 feet for a few days. Not tons of fun for a 70yo, but quite doable.

When we got back into cell service, Lofrans (Imtra) tech support helped me figure out what had gone wrong, and acquainted me with the manual feature. Then I had to find a piece of pipe of the right size, as the ratcheting handle for the windlass was nowhere to be found on the boat. A week later, new solenoid and all was well.

 

[High Wire]

The ball fender and ring absolutely could be used to haul the OPs anchor. But he still needs the strength to haul it from the waterline to the pulpit. If he doesn’t have that strength consider a Fortress or Danforth anchor.
There is a little bit of knowledge and skill needed to use the ball method without turning into a cluster flop.

 

[mike66]

Can you tell me what the proper technique is? I may need to use it.

 

[CharlieO.]

I should be able to pull it up, just more concerned if it was set really good and have trouble breaking it free.

 

[mvweebles]

I should be able to pull it up, just more concerned if it was set really good and have trouble breaking it free.

Best practice is not to use windlass to haul taught anchor and/or rode. Take-up slack with windlass, then pause and let the boat ooch forward. Repeat until boat is directly above anchor. It should pull-up easily. If not, wait a few minutes for anchor to dislodge. This goes for whether or not you have a windlass.

Cute boat. The little Taiwan 34 DCs were my first love in trawlers.

Peter

 

[Ken E.]

I should be able to pull it up, just more concerned if it was set really good and have trouble breaking it free.

This worked for me, for breaking out a really set, stuck anchor: At low tide, pull in all the rode possible until it's vertical. Snub it off on a really strong cleat. As the tide rises, the boat will pull the anchor out. Keep a watch on your position though since you'll be drifting free once the anchor is sprung.

 

[CharlieO.]

This worked for me, for breaking out a really set, stuck anchor: At low tide, pull in all the rode possible until it's vertical. Snub it off on a really strong cleat. As the tide rises, the boat will pull the anchor out. Keep a watch on your position though since you'll be drifting free once the anchor is sprung.

That sounds like a good plan, I'll have to check the tidal fluctuations on Lake Champlain.

Of course I'm kidding we do plan to be on the ocean next year hopefully not needing to drop anchor on our way up the Hudson.

 

[mvweebles]

That sounds like a good plan, I'll have to check the tidal fluctuations on Lake Champlain.



Of course I'm kidding we do plan to be on the ocean next year hopefully not needing to drop anchor on our way up the Hudson.

Bouncing on the bow is an adequate proxy and a bit faster than waiting for tidal change.

Peter

 

[CharlieO.]

Thanks Peter, we chose this boat because it was one of the smallest we could get with the 2 separate staterooms, economical to run, fairly easy to work on and when we sell should be able to get the same amount we paid for it.

I must say I really do like the Willards and would love to get on one. I saw one in Friday Harbor when visiting then a couple months later it came up for sale.

 

[AZ2Loop]

I should be able to pull it up, just more concerned if it was set really good and have trouble breaking it free.

Save your back. Once you have pulled in the slack and are positioned directly over the anchor, tie it off to a strong cleat, bump your engine(s) into forward for just 2-3 seconds to let your engines break it free. This will save your back, and it creates some movement that helps the mud wash off the anchor making it lighter.

 

[High Wire]

Can you tell me what the proper technique is? I may need to use it.

The anchor ball technique?
You start out laying on the hook downwind or down current of the anchor. Note the compass heading to the anchor.

Hook the ring around the anchor rode and clip on the ball fender.
You then put the boat in gear and run upwind but off to the side on a 30-45 degree angle. The important part is NOT to directly run over the rode. Obviously you don't want it to get caught in the props.
As you run up, you should be able to see to rode running back towards the stern and off to the side.

The ring will slide down the rode until it will positions itself directly above the anchor.

As your boat continues forward, the ball will exert a pull on the anchor straight up causing it to break out of the bottom.

You will see the ball being pulled under by the strain.

Once the anchor breaks out the ball will pop up.

The rode will slide through the ring until the anchor shank gets pulled into the ring.

Keep going until you see the ball being dragged behind you. Go a little extra just to be sure. If you stop too early the anchor will drop back to the bottom again.

Now you can retrieve the rode with no anchor weight at all as it is floating in the ring.
I'm sure there is a youtube video. I'll find one and post it here.

 

[High Wire]

Here's one that shows it pretty well. Never heard it called an Alderney Ring before but:

 

[koliver]

Here's one that shows it pretty well. Never heard it called an Alderney Ring before but:

I have seen prawn traps pulled with a variation of this method. One step below buying a Prawn puller but considerably more exciting.

 

[hmason]

Will that work with a 100 pound anchor?

 

[Tim]

Anchor retrieval

I have tried using a ball to retrieve my anchor and chain. It worked well. You have to have a ring of sufficient size to go around the shackle that connects chain to anchor and will slide down anchor shaft. Break out anchor as usual then place ring around chain and connect to ball with 6 ft of line. Secure anchor rode and drive away. Amazingly the ball will be pulled down the chain to anchor which will end up hanging on the floating ball. Now simply pull in the chain hanging off the ball. Be careful as you near the end of the retrieval as the weight of the chain is what is holding the anchor in the ball. Once it weighs less than the anchor and the anchor shaft is raised it will fall out of the ball and you will have the full weight of the anchor and chain in your hands. I consider this emergency on retrieval only. A device is made for this purpose for rope rode and deep water anchoring.

 

[Mark Laurnen]

Anchor Ball Retrieval Method

This tried and true technique is used extensively in Alaska and the PNW, especially with boats too small to warrant an anchor winch. Anchoring for halibut fishing is often in water 250'-300' deep, and that's a lot of line to haul up regardless of the anchor attached ... this method saves a lot of time. Theoretically, any anchor/chain/line combination could be pulled if the float is of sufficient buoyancy to suspend that combined weight. Boat speed is not important as raw power. It is best to pull on the helm side of the boat ... just as when approaching a person in the water, the line is easiest visualized if it is on the helm side. Also, running the line back to a midship, or even stern, cleat before pulling makes it that much easier to avoid the props, and easier yet to see the line. I have a 15 kg Rocna, 20' of 5/8 chain, plus 600' line and have never had difficulty with this technique. I usually easily hand haul the majority of the line and revert to the winch when approaching the chain ... a lot less wear and tear for the winch and batteries. This will not be feasible in a constrained anchorage, as the radius of the pulling circle will be at least as long as all of the gear let out to initially anchor.

 

[Circumnavigator]

Fintry has three docking winches -- P&S midships and one on the stern. They're all very large obsolete three speed sailing winches with top cleats and no self tailing -- they were around $800 each.


Aside from making it much easier to move Fintry around or get her closer to the dock, they could be used with a chain grab hook to pull the anchor and chain.


Jim

 

[sahockey]

Single handing with wind or current

As usual there are a lot of good ideas here! I often single hand my 30’ Sundowner tug/trawler which requires that I am able to retrieve my anchor rapidly if there is a wind or current and there isn’t much room to drift. Here is what works for me since I don’t have a windless nor do I want the added trouble, cost, or weight of one.
1. Lighten your load by using a 5/8” rope rode instead of chain for the first 50’ or so. You can reduce this size down to 3/8” for the rest of its length. Adding chain above an anchor is more difficult to pull up because of the additional weight plus it’s easier to pull on rope than a chain. And realistically as long as you keep an eye on your rode condition how often do you need to replace it.
2. Have an easy close place to snub up that rode if you need to go to the pilot house while raising the anchor to adjust your course because of wind or current. My boat came with an anchor post I can throw a quick clove hitch around if I need to.
3. Have an easy quick way to attach the anchor once it’s all the way up.
4. Because I don’t have to lift chain and my anchor at the same time I use a slightly oversized anchor. This sure beats waking up in the middle of the night to find you are dragging anchor. Those of us who don’t always have the perfect anchor, or anchoring technique or bottom or have room to put out enough scope get a little comfort from this.
5. I also have a sailboat winch which I can use in case driving over the anchor doesn’t free it. This may also come in handy if there is a cable, scrap metal, or other hidden obstruction that’s beneath some anchorages.
6. If I’m in a very suspicious anchorage which might have things waiting to snag my anchor I will also attach a breakout line to the top of my anchor and then to a float. This will allow me to pull up the anchor with out the hook grabbing that obstruction as much.

Stephen

 

[ronobrien]

I see no reason you could not pull the anchor with a ball. I see 30-40 foot boats doing it in this area. You are going to need a pretty good size ball to float everything.

A 24" ball will displace about 32lbs of water. The ball would have to be pretty large to lift a 100# of ground tackle, but I guess any help is better than none.

 

[backinblue]

What are different options for pulling the anchor without a windlass if needed?

I've seen the anchor ball where you kind of drive around in a big circle, would that work on a slow boat? Right now I've got 1" anchor line with about 15' 3/8 chain set up to drop if needed.

Still trying to find a dock space for this Friday on the mid to upper Hudson river when we make our way North to the Champlain canal.

Thanks.

I would get rid of the 1" line and replace it with 5/8" or as much as 3/4" but even that is probably overkill. Then you can get rid of the thimble and have the line spliced to the chain. I prefer 8 plait over 3 strand nylon. I recently replaced my rode with 5/8 line 3/8 chain. 3/4 line may be too big to splice. Depending on the condition of your chain, you could replace that at the same time. It's pretty cheap for a short length but I would want a little more than 15'. You don't want to add too much weight if you are hauling it by hand, but 30' should be manageable.

 

[High Wire]

Will that work with a 100 pound anchor?

No way would I want to pick a 100 pound anchor and chain out of the water by hand. However the physics still works with a large enough ball.