The Adventures of Sylphide

[BandB]

Charleton Harbor seemed nice when we went to tour the Yorktown...

But if you get tired of that and want easier access to the downtown peninsula itself, you might check out The Harborage at Ashley Marina... just next door to the City Marina. Ashley is a condo marina, but they can sub-rent slips at monthly rates and they have a way to allow liveaboards for up to 3-month periods. Also shuttle to downtown including the Harris-Teeter grocery (and back), a nearby free bus route, etc.

-Chris

I assumed when he said the City Marina was full at monthly rates, that included Ashley.

 

[ranger58sb]

I assumed when he said the City Marina was full at monthly rates, that included Ashley.

Wouldn't think so. The two didn't seem to be related... When we were there, we dealt with Ashley direct.

-Chris

 

[Wayfarer]

City actually referred me to Ashley, but I saw that they had a limit on the length of stay, which I didn't want to deal with, so I just called Charleston Harbor next.

 

[ranger58sb]

IIRC, the limit wasn't for length of dockage, but rather for length of liveaboard. IIRC is usually a crap shoot.

-Chris

 

[Wayfarer]

IIRC, the limit wasn't for length of dockage, but rather for length of liveaboard. IIRC is usually a crap shoot.

-Chris

Yeah, that’s correct. I can’t seem to find it again, but I remember reading somewhere that liveaboards were limited to a one month stay. I have no idea how strictly they adhere to that, since I never talked to them.

 

[ranger58sb]

Yeah, that’s correct. I can’t seem to find it again, but I remember reading somewhere that liveaboards were limited to a one month stay. I have no idea how strictly they adhere to that, since I never talked to them.

Well, maybe they've changed then, since we were there. In early 2018 We stayed 2 months, and 3 would have been allowed.

-Chris

 

[Wayfarer]

And just like that, a whirlwind month in Charleston has come and gone. Well, Sylphide was there for a month anyway. I spent one of those weeks (the one where you all were all having your Fort Pierce party without me) in the frozen north for a work obligation. I went to Nowhere, Ontario for a few days for the annual company meetings, and had a few days back in Hometown, NY to visit and take care of some appointments.

When I returned to Charleston and Sylphide, Mom and Stepdad Marc came for a visit. They stayed aboard for about a week, and what a magnificent week it was. We squeezed in as much touristy goodness as we could. We took a bus tour of town, ate delicious food at a variety of places, went to the market twice, went to Fort Sumter, toured USS Yorktown and USS Laffey at Patriots Point, ate some more, took obligatory selfies in front of the Pineapple Fountain, helped stand an impossibly drunk and vehemently drooling man back up after he fell over in the street, saw rainbow row, and had a generally excellent time.

One of the few nights we stayed in for dinner, we decided on a recipe for pork tacos that I'd been wanting to try. I found the recipe in a cook book that everyone in my family loves, so we were all looking forward to it. Well, after lovingly crafting these beautiful things, we sat down to eat, and our faces promptly melted off. Remember what happened to that guy in the Indiana Jones movie, when he opened up the Ark? That. That's what happened to us. Like hot cheese off an unsupported slice of floppy New York pizza.

Turns out, we were only supposed to add a tablespoon of the 'Chipotles in Adobo Sauce.' We added the entire seven ounce can.

Oops.

At least now I feel brave. I crushed two of 'em. I got a merit badge and everything. I'll be trying that one again for sure.

My aunt Jill also joined us for the last few days that Mom and Marc were aboard. Despite the fact that it rained from the time her plane landed until they were 20 miles into their drive home, and despite the fact that Sylphide was now decidedly at full capacity, we had a marvelous time. We ate some more delicious food, toured a couple of Charleston's famous houses, drank some beers, and managed to have only one close call with a bar fight. It's not my fault, I promise.

I met up with an old friend, and got to meet his 438587248.56 children.

I went to my first ever political rally. I saw Mayor Pete on primary day, just before he threw in the towel.

I tried, and failed, to find Bill Murray.

I narrowly avoided a power pedestal fire when 50-30 adapter the marina loaned me tried to melt itself.

Despite this near miss, I liked Charleston Harbor Marina. I came to think of C dock as my neighborhood. It was fairly quiet for most of the time I was there, but it was starting to get busy just before I left. Everyone I met there, locals and transients alike, were all pleasant and friendly, and very good neighbors. I'm glad I decided to stay there, and have every intention of going back.

I think the only thing I'll do differently next time is that I won't pay the extra 300 bucks per month for the resort amenities fee. It seemed like a great idea at the time, but I only took advantage of it once. With only a couple of days left before departing, I made it a point to jump in the pool. It was refreshing, but as three hundred dollar experiences go, I've had better.

All in all, I couldn't be happier with my stay in Charleston. I enjoyed it immensely. It's a beautiful city, brimming with character and personality, and so many opportunities. There was never any shortage of things to do, places to go, stuff to see. The people here love their city, and it shows. In my experience, it's rare when a place lives up to my expectations, but this is one of those places.

I departed Charleston this morning, and have begun my northward migration. I'll save that for the next post, though. This one is already long enough.

Now go wash your hands.

 

[rslifkin]

Good to hear you're on the move again. Any idea where you're planning to end up as you head north? Or is it just go and see where you land?

 

[rgano]

I hope to be heading south from Norfolk starting the 21st in this. Will look out for ya.

 

[Kit_L]

Dave,

Please do discuss your better $300 experiences; I am all ears!

 

[ranger58sb]

We liked Charleston a lot, too.

We wanted to get from Port Royal to Charleston Harbor yesterday... but we couldn't make the arrival tides work for us... so we stopped at St. Johns. Heading for Georgetown today, so if you're hanging about there a bit, we might cross paths.

Afterwards, probably Osprey for fuel... and may or may not stop there. If not, maybe Barefoot Landing since we've not been there before. Or maybe MBYC if necessary.

Then we'll likely stop in both Southport (probably South Harbor Village) and then Wrightville Beach (likely Bridgetenders) so family from Wilmington can visit at both places.

-Chris

 

[Wayfarer]

Good to hear you're on the move again. Any idea where you're planning to end up as you head north? Or is it just go and see where you land?

It’s good to BE on the move again! I was starting to gather moss back there... I have some nebulous plans, and I’m tentatively aiming for Beaufort by this weekend. I’d like to try to get up to Atlantic Yacht Basin to store Sylphide while I go back to work, but that might be a stretch.

I hope to be heading south from Norfolk starting the 21st in this. Will look out for ya.

Well now, that’s quite a craft! Best of luck with your delivery run, skipper. I would be tickled purple to meet up with you and your crew.

Dave,

Please do discuss your better $300 experiences; I am all ears!

There once was a man from Nantucke- Wait no, hang on. I’m not supposed to talk about that.

 

[slowgoesit]

There once was a man from Nantucke- Wait no, hang on. I’m not supposed to talk about that.

I knew that man, but I thought he was from Kent?!?

 

[BruceK]

I knew that man, but I thought he was from Kent?!?

So, more information, how does it go?

 

[ranger58sb]

Dave, depending on where you are just now...

Have heard this morning that the Socastee and Little River Bridges are closed. The Little River bridge tender had no word from maintenance about how long a fix might take..

-Chris

 

[Wayfarer]

Dave, depending on where you are just now...

Have heard this morning that the Socastee and Little River Bridges are closed. The Little River bridge tender had no word from maintenance about how long a fix might take..

-Chris

I’m nestled snugly betwixt the two, conveniently enough, lol. I’ve been at Barefoot for two nights now, and the latest report from Little River is that they haven’t been able to identify the problem yet.

 

[slowgoesit]

So, more information, how does it go?

Sent pm, not for open forum consumption!

 

[ranger58sb]

I’m nestled snugly betwixt the two, conveniently enough, lol. I’ve been at Barefoot for two nights now, and the latest report from Little River is that they haven’t been able to identify the problem yet.

Our plan had been to move to Osprey, Barefoot, or MBYC... latter having currently best diesel prices. Given the bridge problem, we bypassed all that, came straight from Georgetown to Southport. Got beat up by the forecasted 2-3' seas.

First we had to deal with the 4-5's coming out of Winyah Bay.

Then the rest turned out to be very short wave period (about half a boat length) interspersed with sets of 2 or 3 irregular period 4-footers. Up the crest, down the trough, up the crest, down the trough, up the crest, SLAM! down the trough, repeat for 9 hours.

Have heard third-hand that USCG has mandated marinas discontinue offering transient slips. No confirmation.

-Chris

 

[Larry M]

...Have heard third-hand that USCG has mandated marinas discontinue offering transient slips. No confirmation.-Chris

Not yet but a lot of marinas have changed their status in the last 24 hours.

https://www.waterwayguide.com/covid-19-reports

 

[Wayfarer]

Our plan had been to move to Osprey, Barefoot, or MBYC... latter having currently best diesel prices. Given the bridge problem, we bypassed all that, came straight from Georgetown to Southport. Got beat up by the forecasted 2-3' seas.

First we had to deal with the 4-5's coming out of Winyah Bay.

Then the rest turned out to be very short wave period (about half a boat length) interspersed with sets of 2 or 3 irregular period 4-footers. Up the crest, down the trough, up the crest, down the trough, up the crest, SLAM! down the trough, repeat for 9 hours.

Have heard third-hand that USCG has mandated marinas discontinue offering transient slips. No confirmation.

-Chris

Yuck. That doesn't sound like any fun at all, lol. I guess I'm glad I stayed put for a few days. Will you be staying in Southport for a bit, or carrying on, Chris?

I'll be departing Barefoot as soon as I finish this cup of coffee, and get myself cleaned up a bit.

I hope to meet you along the way for a nice long, wet handshake

I verified that Southport Marina is still accepting transients, and I also spoke with the waterways dude at USCG Sector NC. He said there are no restrictions in place for marinas taking transients at this point. They are cautioning that any vessels arriving from foreign ports should be quarantined for 14 days, but that doesn't apply to vessels travelling domestically. He said he doesn't anticipate that will change.

Of course if marinas want to close of their own accord, they certainly can do so. But they don't have to. Yet.

 

[ranger58sb]

Not yet but a lot of marinas have changed their status in the last 24 hours.

Saw that. Not very complete, but certainly promising.

Yuck. That doesn't sound like any fun at all, lol. I guess I'm glad I stayed put for a few days. Will you be staying in Southport for a bit, or carrying on, Chris?

I'll be departing Barefoot as soon as I finish this cup of coffee, and get myself cleaned up a bit.

I hope to meet you along the way for a nice long, wet handshake

I verified that Southport Marina is still accepting transients, and I also spoke with the waterways dude at USCG Sector NC. He said there are no restrictions in place for marinas taking transients at this point. They are cautioning that any vessels arriving from foreign ports should be quarantined for 14 days, but that doesn't apply to vessels travelling domestically. He said he doesn't anticipate that will change.

We just learned the Little River Bridge did in fact begin opening, sometime late afternoon yesterday but before their rush-hour-traffic closure. Drat!

Although our trip yesterday put us a day forward in our plan.

Which we are trying to accelerate a bit. After we put the boat back together, slosh off all the salt, etc.

We we're going to have some elective electrical surgery tomorrow (by Zimmermans) to see about the GFCI thing, but... in the meantime, we'd rather be home (near Annapolis) for any self-induced isolation rather than on the boat with limited resupply available, so...

We leave tomorrow at oh-dark-thirty, bypassing our normal stop in Wrightsville Beach and instead moving on toward Swansboro.

That may mean some temporary hold-ups at Camp Lejeune. Talked to range control, they're starting a large week-long exercise tomorrow... but will temporarily halt firing on either the even or odd hour (dunno which, yet) for ICW traffic.

We'll probably stay out ahead of you on this trip, but I bet we'll eventually be able to do that beverage/shake paws thing sometime or other...

Stay safe, enjoy!

-Chris

 

[ranger58sb]

We'll probably stay out ahead of you on this trip, but I bet we'll eventually be able to do that beverage/shake paws thing sometime or other...

But that reminds me... since you'll be passing us to slightly further ahead to Southport Marina... wave as you go by! Can't miss us, at South Harbour Village.

If I see you coming, I might remember to turn a radio on... usually 78A works well for us...

-Chris

 

[Larry M]

...I verified that Southport Marina is still accepting transients...Of course if marinas want to close of their own accord, they certainly can do so. But they don't have to. Yet.

Dave: Things can change fast. If you find a place you like you may want to hang there. New Smyrna Beach City Marina closed to transients as of today. Ortega Landing Marina in JAX posted this: Marina is open. We are accepting all long term guests with daily arrivals. We are delaying short term transients until April 30th as a precaution. Office is closed to the public and staff are rotating office time to manage check-ins and facility. Pump out services are operable. Pool, spa, restrooms and showers and laundry are open. Local grocery, West Marine, and shops are open. Clubhouse is closed temporarily for social activity and being used as a mail room for deliveries.

 

[Wayfarer]

We leave tomorrow at oh-dark-thirty, bypassing our normal stop in Wrightsville Beach and instead moving on toward Swansboro.

That may mean some temporary hold-ups at Camp Lejeune. Talked to range control, they're starting a large week-long exercise tomorrow... but will temporarily halt firing on either the even or odd hour (dunno which, yet) for ICW traffic.

I'm going to try to get moving by 0800 tomorrow, and ride the flood tide up past Carolina Beach. I'm skipping Wrightsville this time, and am aiming for a night at anchor at Mile Hammock Bay.

But that reminds me... since you'll be passing us to slightly further ahead to Southport Marina... wave as you go by! Can't miss us, at South Harbour Village.

If I see you coming, I might remember to turn a radio on... usually 78A works well for us...

-Chris

I saw a really handsome looking vessel called Ranger tied up at South Harbor this afternoon. I slowed down for a low flyover, but t'wern't nobody home. I guess you'll just have to wave at me tomorrow when it's your turn to leapfrog. Tag, you're it!

Dave: Things can change fast. If you find a place you like you may want to hang there. New Smyrna Beach City Marina closed to transients as of today. Ortega Landing Marina in JAX posted this: Marina is open. We are accepting all long term guests with daily arrivals. We are delaying short term transients until April 30th as a precaution. Office is closed to the public and staff are rotating office time to manage check-ins and facility. Pump out services are operable. Pool, spa, restrooms and showers and laundry are open. Local grocery, West Marine, and shops are open. Clubhouse is closed temporarily for social activity and being used as a mail room for deliveries.

What silly and weird world we're in these days. Worst case scenario, I've got fuel and water, and enough cans of soup to get me clear on up to mile zero. TP is okay too, but I've taken to Tarzanning from a halyard, ass first into the water. It's very refreshing, and it helps to make people want to stay away from me.

 

[rgano]

Underway from Norfolk tomorrow AM heading south and hoping for the best, but stocked and fueled to just keep on going for weeks.

 

[BruceK]

...I hope to meet you along the way for a nice long, wet handshake ...

Nonono. Illegal. Toe or elbow bumps instead. Except our PM now wants us separated by 2M. 2 people out for dinner are going to need table for 6. (Hint: he doesn`t want us going to restaurants, there might well be room). A drink in a pub? Mmm no.
I just ordered some wine online. Delivered, no signature required. Order 1 case, get one free. And from Treasury Wine, whose brands include Penfolds Grange,but I`m not expecting a free 6 bottle $4800 case of Grange.

 

[ranger58sb]

I saw a really handsome looking vessel called Ranger tied up at South Harbor this afternoon. I slowed down for a low flyover, but t'wern't nobody home. I guess you'll just have to wave at me tomorrow when it's your turn to leapfrog. Tag, you're it!

Too bad we missed you; guess that was when we were doing chores down below. Like putting everything inside the boat back in its rightful place, after our oh, so fun ocean run from Georgetown. Even shook the mesh speaker covers out of their fittings... Geez!

-Chris

 

[Wayfarer]

Too bad we missed you; guess that was when we were doing chores down below. Like putting everything inside the boat back in its rightful place, after our oh, so fun ocean run from Georgetown. Even shook the mesh speaker covers out of their fittings... Geez!

-Chris

The perfect opportunity to disinfect behind the speaker covers! lol

 

[Wayfarer]

When I were a lad, I used to carry around a brochure for the Nordhavn 46. I would stare at that brochure whenever I had an empty moment. I would dream about owning one, what I would call her, what color and layout I’d pick, and all of the places we would go. I wanted one like normal kids wanted Lamborghinis or girlfriends. That’s just the kind of nerd I was/am.

Up to that point, I’d never been aboard one, and had only ever seen one in person, but it was on blocks on the hill. So when I pulled into Charleston Harbor, I immediately picked out the N46 that was moored down the dock from me. I decided that I would introduce myself and be friends with whoever I found, even if they were jerks.

Her skipper beat me to the punch, and was on my dock inviting me to happy hour before I knew it. I’m happy to report that not only are they not jerks, they’re thoroughly lovely people who also happen to be newly converted full time liveaboard cruisers. We had several pleasant encounters throughout our stay, and eventually discovered that we were both planning on leaving town on the same day, and in the same direction. So the convoy of two was formed.

We timed our departure for slack water, which was shortly after sunrise. There was some patchy morning fog around, but it soon burned off and gave way to a beautiful sunny day. We caught more fair currents than not, and we made good progress. They were making a fraction of a knot more than I was, and ever so slowly pulled ahead throughout the day. By the time we reached Georgetown, they were about twenty minutes ahead of me, which gave them time to get secured before I rolled in.

The wind had been picking up later in the day, and was blowing off the dock when I arrived. I made a bit of a horse’s ass of the tie up. There wasn't a lot of wind, but it was going in a very unhelpful direction. It took several attempts from several directions, and in the end I was only able to get alongside because a schadenfraudience had formed to watch me screw up, and they kindly offered to catch me. This allowed me to use the ‘pointy end first, ram it in hard and fast’ method. The result was only some minor injuries, and my insurance will cover most of the damage. We should all be back on the water just in time for the 2023 season. This marks the end of the blog until then.

Just kidding, it went fine. I was greeted at the check in desk by Milo, the ferocious dogbeast of Georgetown.

There was a restaurant in town that I’d wanted to try last time I was there, but never managed to get around to it. I succeeded this time, but with whispers of something called the Corona Virus starting to waft around, I felt a bit weird about being there. I was happy to be leaving money in town, but wasn’t sure if it was okay to be out. There were lots of other patrons, which was both comforting and disconcerting. Anyway the food was good, and I haven’t died yet, which is nice.

I ducked out of Georgetown the next morning, and laid in a course for to North Myrtle Beach. The Nordhavn gang would be sticking around in Georgetown for a couple of days, so I was a parade of one again. There was a bit of morning fog, but otherwise the weather was lovely. The cruise was pleasant and uneventful, with a few exceptions. The Socastee bridge was out of service when I arrived, and I had to tread water for about an hour while they made some repairs. That gave me enough time for a conference call with some work colleagues regarding the impending Covid crisis. Things certainly seemed to be escalating quickly in that department.

After the bridge, I found myself playing tag with a couple of crew boats that were skulling up the river. They were going three wide with their coach boat, and taking up the lion’s share of the channel. Since I’m so slow, and they’re apparently pretty fast, they were mostly staying out in front of me. They’d occasionally slow down, I’d catch up, and then they’d take off again. It was like chasing a bird down the sidewalk. They see you, get spooked and fly off in the same direction you’re going, only to be just as surprised and alarmed when you turn up again forty five seconds later.

After a few awkward encounters like that, it looked like they were moving over to let me pass, so I started working my way over to one side of the channel. That’s when I hit what I assume it was a fallen tree across the river. I never saw what it was, but it sure felt and sounded solid, and it bumped along the keel far more times than I’d have cared for. It was the most alarming series of bumps I’ve felt yet, and I could actually feel the boat riding up over it, which was a deeply unpleasant sensation. I was never more glad to have a deep, sturdy keel, and protected running gear. From what I can tell, no damage was done, except to my underpants.

A short time later, I found myself back at Barefoot Landing. I’d planned to stay just for one night, just like the last time I was there. I ended up staying for three nights, just like the last time I was there. This time it was due to the Little River swing bridge being broken down. There were several other boats there waiting for the bridge, and over the course of my stay, the latest rumors of it’s next opening were always hot dockside gossip.

I laid low for most of those three days. The virus situation was really blowing up by then, and It was becoming clear that it was important to stay home whenever possible, so I did. I played video games, called some friends, and gave the boat a scrub.

I did meet one new friend though. A friendly local and fellow TF member by the name of Cliff Meima came down to visit. We had a nice chat from a safe distance, and I was glad of the company.

That night, to continue the theme of staying inside playing video games and being antisocial, I decided to order a pizza. I’d been told that the marina restaurant had decent pizza, but I’d already eaten there several times, and didn’t feel like going back that night. I ordered Domino’s for a delivery, and left instructions for the driver to drop the pie at the marina BEHIND the restaurant, and not to go TO the restaurant. Well, as I was standing by the road waiting, I heard the owner of the restaurant asking people if they’d ordered a pizza. What I should have done at this point was ignore him and quietly walk back to the boat empty handed. What I did do was say ‘Oh… that’s me.’

What happened next, was that I was escorted by the owner, who was most likely worried about the future of his business in these uncertain times, across the patio of his restaurant, which was open, full of patrons, and actively serving pizza of it's own, to where the nitwit delivery driver was standing with my pizza. Several liquored up members of the crowd then proceeded to heckle me for ordering Domino's to a restaurant that serves pizza, which is what I was specifically trying not to do.

The manager Hag shouted across the space, loudly enough for everyone to hear, with venom in her voice: ‘Y’KNOW! WE SERVE PIZZA HERE!’

‘YEP, I KNOW.’ I shouted back

‘WELL APPARENTLY YOU DON’T! she spat back.

I decided that the odds of my being able to explain why I wasn’t an ******* to this particular group of ******** were small, so I took my shame pizza and left. I will never return to that restaurant. I hope that’s what they were trying to accomplish.

On the plus side, now feeling that other people were seriously overrated, it got a little easier to quarantine myself.

 

[slowgoesit]

Dave, as always, your posts are a rare treat! Keep them coming!