Trawler Insulation - Cold weather

[Irwin28]

Hi all,

(I wasn't sure if this was a "general" question" or a "live aboard")

*** I'm considering buy at trawler as a live aboard and I'm wondering about insulation on Trawlers/Makes. Are they insulated beyond the fiberglass of the hull? It would only make sense to insulate a boat that is designed to travel the world where winter is a reality for most of us.

PS - looking for a 34ish trawler...

*

 

[Keith]

Never seen one with insulation like you're thinking about. The biggest losses are through air leaks, and the windows. There are lots of ways to reduce those.

 

[bobofthenorth]

We lived on Gray Hawk last winter from just before Christmas to mid-July in the PNW.* We'll be back on her in a couple of months.* We've also spent a lot of cold weather PNW time in a converted bus.* The biggest issue, bar none, is condensation.* Air leaks around sliding doors were a problem on Gray Hawk until we installed some weatherstripping.* We have hydronic heat in our bus and forced air heat on the boat - forced air is better, no question.* Hydronic lets us have zones and that is great but it just reheats the (wet) air that is already inside the bus.* Forced air with outside makeup air brings in dryer outside air which helps deal with the condensation problem.* Double pane windows would be a huge help but I doubt that is an option on many trawler type vessels.* I doubt that added insulation*will make a measureable difference when most of*your exposed surface is glass.

*

 

[swampu]

I was considering going with some closed cell foam in the walls, or some of those blue foam boards. I am still far from covering the wall up so this maybe interesting to read.

 

[Irwin28]

I read with some intrest the frugal mariner (frugal-mariner dot com) and what he did on his live aboard.

I just makes not sense to me why there is no insulation - why heat the ocean instead of your toes? You figure that in many areas north of North Carolina have 50 degree water most of the year. You're sitting in a floating beer chiller!!!!!

*And no insulation beyond a thin fiberglass shell.

In times of cheap fuel - who cares? Just crank up the Dikinson a little more but now that fuel is nearing the price of liquid gold, maybe it's time for boat builders to take notice.


-- Edited by Irwin28 on Wednesday 7th of September 2011 12:38:02 AM

 

[FF]

Rugs (in layers) on the deck work well to seal the unheated areas below the deck,

Plastic shrunk on the inside and outside of the glass areas are cheap and simple. ( Home Cheapo)

Much foam insulation burns very well and is hard to in stall safely.

A heating plant that works with out electric would be a better choice ,

IF you plan on cruising in colder weather, when anchorages are EMPTY!.

 

[Keith]

My Krogen hull is a little more than 1" thick, with a core of closed cell Airex foam. Pretty well insulated from the water. My pilothouse acts like a greenhouse in winter. I keep the windows covered from the inside with that foil/foam house sheathing in the summer, but in the winter all that comes off, and a small fan blows the warm air from there down into the saloon.

*

Irwin28 wrote:

I read with some intrest the frugal mariner (frugal-mariner dot com) and what he did on his live aboard.

I just makes not sense to me why there is no insulation - why heat the ocean instead of your toes? You figure that in many areas north of North Carolina have 50 degree water most of the year. You're sitting in a floating beer chiller!!!!!

*And no insulation beyond a thin fiberglass shell.

In times of cheap fuel - who cares? Just crank up the Dikinson a little more but now that fuel is nearing the price of liquid gold, maybe it's time for boat builders to take notice.



-- Edited by Irwin28 on Wednesday 7th of September 2011 12:38:02 AM

*

 

[Tom.B]

This thread is very depressing!

 

[Penny Lane]

There's cold and then there's really cold.* For really cold we rely on the heater.* But*for Fall and Spring, we added a set of Sunbrella window screens to all the big glass.* On cool, low wind days we get a trapped layer of air that helps keep the boat warm.* It also provides some privacy and keeps the bugs out, though not as well as true insect screens.

Ours are white.* I would think that navy or any other dark color could really heat up the boat.* Our navy enclosed bridge gets very warm on any sunny day.

 

[Phil Fill]

*
We been a live aboard in the Puget Sound area for 14 years.* the cheapest and easiest is to keep the cold rain and wind off the boat, cut down the drafts, and try to retain the heat in a given/limited location.** Install/keep the heat down low, floor level, heart rises so keep the heat as low as possible and through out the boat.* 2/3 of our heat is down in the state rooms, the heat natural flow is up into the galley/salon as fans on low direct the heat where we want it.* We have a small quilt over the stair way to the pilot house to keep the heat down in the salon.* So maximize the heat flow.
*
All the floors except the galley is carpeted with a thick pad under, the windows have thick thermal curtains with plex a glass on the out side, and all the wall space has cabinets/book selves/closets to act as a barrier. *Doors and windows have weather stripping.* However, being the boat is kept air tight its very important to have CO and propane alarms and air out the boat on the few nice days.*
*
*
We have a Webasto Diesel boiler heating system which is size down to 0 degree F.* We have found keeping the boat whole boat at a constant temp low temp, 60 to 65 degree and increase the temp in the area we are in and using.* Wearing layered warm cloths is cheaper than heat and we have quilts/blanket though out the boat.* We both have our own quilts.* To max the AC electricity most of the high amp demand items are on timers/thermostats so items turn on/off.* The water heater turns on twice a day for one hour, the heaters are on thermostats with timers, so though out the day high amp items are turning on/off.* **
*
Condensation can be a big a big problem so keep water/moisture at a minimum and/or off the boat. Showers are short and moisture kept in the bathroom and vented, no boiling of hot water, no standing water, and any wet cloths is not brought into the living are of the boat. We use the stern and pilot house as porches for coats/hats/shoes and a place to strip off and leave wet cloths.* Most of the winter we have a tarp over the front deck, supported by PBC tubing and over the salon roof supported by the boom which keep the cold wind/rain off the boat, and retain some of the heat.* *Being a live aboard you are constantly trying to conserve heat/energy/water/sanitation as possible.
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* *************

 

[windmist]

Get a good dehumidifier, preferably one that is rated for lower temperatures. We did this when we lived abroad and it made a huge difference. No more wet windows and it felt much warmer. The best $200 investment you will make as a liveaboard.

Ron

 

[FF]

"My Krogen hull is a little more than 1" thick, with a core of closed cell Airex foam. Pretty well insulated from the water."

On many boats the foam core is only above the WL, and solid glass is below.

On our 90/90 we use this in hot weather , by removing sections in the cabin sole (under lockers) and allowing the hull to fill with sea temp air , up to the bottom of any open port.

Cold begins at 0F , and that's where a boat specifically built to handle ALL WEATHER shines.

 

[magicbus]

If you are going to be out in freezing temps the hull may be the least of your problems. Don't forget the water lines to things like the windshield wipers and a sink on the FB or an outdoor shower. Depending on how they were plumbed you may be able to isolate them or you may need to install some valves and drains.

Dave

 

[cd30ketch]

We used closed cell foam in our house and it is great. It will reduce sweating also. Keep in mind that all of the built in furnature*creates air spaces that helps insulate the boat.