Skag
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Mar 25, 2021
- Messages
- 45
- Vessel Name
- Chrysalis
- Vessel Make
- 2006 Metal Craft Marine 50' Trawler
Great thread. I've got to put my vote in for a single and the prop protection it inherently provides when on a trawler with a full keel. However, as many others have said:
1) It must get perfect maintenance
2) Have all critical spares on board
3) The captain must know the engine intimately and how to quickly repair it
4) Good clean fuel - with a means to circulate and clean the tanks
In addition to the basics above, I require and have for my peace of mind:
5) Dry-stacked exhaust and keel cooled. This removes the sea water and main heat exchanger completely at a cost of sacrificing some internal space. This also means zero salt water running through anything in the engine room.
6) Mechanical, proven reliable engine that is run at a fraction of it's rated HP. My current is a 3306 Caterpillar (run at only 1,100rpms...), prior was a 6BT cummins (no salt water aftercooler, run at 1,600 rpms).
7) Spares to the extreme: entire fuel injection pump, starter, injection lines, injectors, fittings, full engine gasket set, all belts (x2) hydraulic/fuel hoses and fittings (to make my own custom hoses on the fly), heat exchangers (engine and trans oil), turbo charger, replacement filters (6+ of each), engine water pump, belts, alternator(s), hydraulic pump, power steering pump, steering hydraulic rams, steering hydraulic solenoid valves, enough fluids to replace at least 2x. I'm sure I missed something. My boat is full of spares - at 105,000 lbs I don't care about the extra weight. Spares are wrapped in oil impregnated paper to prevent corrosion, wrapped in bubble wrap and logged in a spreadsheet identifying location stored. If I had to buy these again, I would find a used engine and pull all of the parts - I likely have $10K+ in spares. I had always carried a spare prop as well - until I saw the price to replace the current large four blade I have on my 50' trawler.
8) Engine fuel shutoff - must be either mechanical lever or an "energize to shut down" solenoid. It baffles me why most diesels use "energize to run" solenoids. I've converted every diesel boat to mechanical or "energize to shut down" after I almost hit the breakwall when my engine decided to shut down (Cummins 6BT) due to some corrosion on an electrical connection. Very risky to have "energize to run" system with salt water ......... only a matter of time.
9) I do all of my own maintenance to make sure I know the engine well. It also helps immensely with saving $$
10) Engine alarms and automatic shutdowns. All the basic gauges + alarms + automatic shutdowns. When out of the harbor and on autopilot, I arm a shutdown system that can be triggered by low oil pressure, low oil level, high coolant temp or low coolant level. In close quarters or in the harbor, with a flip of a switch the shutdown system is dis-armed.
11) Tools - enough to tackle any repair. Including a welder. All critical specialty service tools for the engine.
I don't like to worry....
1) It must get perfect maintenance
2) Have all critical spares on board
3) The captain must know the engine intimately and how to quickly repair it
4) Good clean fuel - with a means to circulate and clean the tanks
In addition to the basics above, I require and have for my peace of mind:
5) Dry-stacked exhaust and keel cooled. This removes the sea water and main heat exchanger completely at a cost of sacrificing some internal space. This also means zero salt water running through anything in the engine room.
6) Mechanical, proven reliable engine that is run at a fraction of it's rated HP. My current is a 3306 Caterpillar (run at only 1,100rpms...), prior was a 6BT cummins (no salt water aftercooler, run at 1,600 rpms).
7) Spares to the extreme: entire fuel injection pump, starter, injection lines, injectors, fittings, full engine gasket set, all belts (x2) hydraulic/fuel hoses and fittings (to make my own custom hoses on the fly), heat exchangers (engine and trans oil), turbo charger, replacement filters (6+ of each), engine water pump, belts, alternator(s), hydraulic pump, power steering pump, steering hydraulic rams, steering hydraulic solenoid valves, enough fluids to replace at least 2x. I'm sure I missed something. My boat is full of spares - at 105,000 lbs I don't care about the extra weight. Spares are wrapped in oil impregnated paper to prevent corrosion, wrapped in bubble wrap and logged in a spreadsheet identifying location stored. If I had to buy these again, I would find a used engine and pull all of the parts - I likely have $10K+ in spares. I had always carried a spare prop as well - until I saw the price to replace the current large four blade I have on my 50' trawler.
8) Engine fuel shutoff - must be either mechanical lever or an "energize to shut down" solenoid. It baffles me why most diesels use "energize to run" solenoids. I've converted every diesel boat to mechanical or "energize to shut down" after I almost hit the breakwall when my engine decided to shut down (Cummins 6BT) due to some corrosion on an electrical connection. Very risky to have "energize to run" system with salt water ......... only a matter of time.
9) I do all of my own maintenance to make sure I know the engine well. It also helps immensely with saving $$
10) Engine alarms and automatic shutdowns. All the basic gauges + alarms + automatic shutdowns. When out of the harbor and on autopilot, I arm a shutdown system that can be triggered by low oil pressure, low oil level, high coolant temp or low coolant level. In close quarters or in the harbor, with a flip of a switch the shutdown system is dis-armed.
11) Tools - enough to tackle any repair. Including a welder. All critical specialty service tools for the engine.
I don't like to worry....
