Upgrades for Going Coastal - Beneteau Swift Trawler 44

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Here's what was posted....

"Hi stubones
Yes Sir, I believe they use Groco bronze thru hulls. NOT my first or 20th choice :) "

He said bronze thru hulls....yet the composition report report was from the boat manufacturer.

So hard to really tell...but I have never heard of a bronze Groco through hull or sea cock have issues except if some older ball valves were chromed balls and they pitted from not being exercised.
 
SOJOURN4,
Was the 34 with or without the fly bridge?
I'd like to hear more about your move (and anyone else that would like to chime in) to a larger boat.
I hope to liveaboard and will be singlehanded the majority of the time.
Thx
CERVELO -
Our ST 34 did have a fly bridge - which we ran the boat from 95% of the time - Wx permitting. The fly adds significant liveable area. We traded up since we felt we needed just a bit more space. Our ST 34 was sold to a couple that was coming East to cruise the coast.
The 34 was a great handling boat - even with a single engine. Bow and stern thrusters made it almost impossible to get into trouble. Economy was +/- 1.2 GPM and top speed was +/- 23 MPH.
Singlehand was never an issue since you have great access from the helm station to the bow and stern.
Good luck
 
Also, if you plan to go offshore or in cold water climates, you might want to invest in one (or two) fastflow bilge pumps. These pumps fit around your prop shaft and if water ever gets up that high, as long as the engine(s) is running will pump far more than your electric bilge pumps. They are 'automatic' in that if the prop is spinning, so is the pump. They have no problem running dry, since it is a centrifugal pump with no seals to wear out. The amazing thing is they work regardless of which direction the prop shaft is turning.[/QUOTE]

Good tip on the Fastflow Bilge Pumps, interesting.
 
Fastflow pumps are awesome. The big issue however is most of us do not have enough space between the coupler and the stuffing box to mount it. Most of the smaller pumps are long.

If you can mount one low in the bilge and power it some other way it's great. They pass large objects and can run dry forever. Therefore they could be run off the engine constantly without a clutch or other engagement mechanism.
 
Fastflow pumps are awesome. The big issue however is most of us do not have enough space between the coupler and the stuffing box to mount it. Most of the smaller pumps are long.

If you can mount one low in the bilge and power it some other way it's great. They pass large objects and can run dry forever. Therefore they could be run off the engine constantly without a clutch or other engagement mechanism.

Solid feedback, As the post pointed out we just added 3 heavy duty Jabsco pumps and water alarms in three areas. But to your point they are only capable of limited volume as compared to the Fastflow. I'll do some more research because as you point out the size my just not be practical.

Honestly the fact an alarm sounds giving early notification so we can diagnose the issue quickly provides me with more feeling of security than the pumps which are obviously a solid and better addition than nothing.

Since I'm unfamiliar with them and this may be a stupid question but If they weren't connected to the rotation of the shafts what then would provide the power?
 
CERVELO -
Our ST 34 did have a fly bridge - which we ran the boat from 95% of the time - Wx permitting. The fly adds significant liveable area. We traded up since we felt we needed just a bit more space. Our ST 34 was sold to a couple that was coming East to cruise the coast.
The 34 was a great handling boat - even with a single engine. Bow and stern thrusters made it almost impossible to get into trouble. Economy was +/- 1.2 GPM and top speed was +/- 23 MPH.
Singlehand was never an issue since you have great access from the helm station to the bow and stern.
Good luck

Cervelo, Agree with Soujoun, even the 44 is easy to single hand with the easy access and door immediately adjacent to the helm station. You can tie off amidships pull the bow rode up next to the entryway once secure walk up and tie off. On the 44, with two props we only use them for maneuverability in close quarters rather than the rudders and as he points out Bow and Stern thrusters are super useful.
 
There are pumps that can be rigged to hydraulics or belt driven, but they are different than the clamp on design of fast flow pumps. They all split down the middle so you don't have to drop the shaft to install them. You install the impeller first, then the outer pump housing. I guess I have not seen too many boats that didn't have 5" of space between the transmission and the shaft seal / stuffing box.

The biggest downside is that you should add a high water alarm switch above your regular bilge pumps, to tell you that you have a BIG problem and don't switch it into neutral.

I wonder if that boat that sank off Ft Lauderdale would have gone down had she been equipped with Fast Flow pumps.
 
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I have personally held on to a fire hose being feed by a 2" Fastflow pump. One man can barely hang on to it. Steve the owner of the company was my neighbor. He had a demo unit in his back yard we would play with from time to time. If I had the room I'd have one!
 
I wonder if that boat that sank off Ft Lauderdale would have gone down had she been equipped with Fast Flow pumps.

That boat sinking makes no sense. The suggested cause doesn't pass the sniff test. But you have to wonder about alarms and pumps and the sinking being unavoidable by the time help arrived. They weren't that far from their starting point or that far offshore.
 
CeeBee-

Are those underwater lights installed through the hull, or did you run the wiring above the waterline?

Interesting about how you prefer exterior blue lights as easier on the eyes.
 
Stubones-thanks for the tip on Fast Flow pumps. I had not heard of them. I checked their site and their smallest pump for a 2" shaft pumps 24,000 GPH to a 100' lift. That is pretty amazing. Recall from an earlier discussion, a 4" hole flows at around 15-16,000 GPH. And according to them, it operates as a blower when not actually pumping. Could you plumb the outlet into the exhaust piping-perhaps close to the thru-hull? Interesting, I did a search on Amazon looking for a price and what came up was fast-flo breast pumps! Not quite the same thing.
 
Wow, great stuff!
My two little upgrades that come to mind:
1) My dealer was delivering a ST 44 in rolling seas when the main saloon doors slammed closed and broke the cheesy lock / latch. With no easy way to secure the door the damned thing was then out of control and banging, unless dead bolted in the open position.
I installed an additional whiteboard "keeper" tight to the jamb (see the far one in the photo, the 2 near ones are stock) which now allows me to deadbolt the door tightly closed or open a few inches. Great security at night while still allowing ventilation if needed.



2) I installed an audible water alarm which sounds on the fly which will alert me to water in the main bilge. The original design has no alarm on the fly as alarm on stock bilge pump only sounds at lower station.
 

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Stubones-thanks for the tip on Fast Flow pumps. I had not heard of them. I checked their site and their smallest pump for a 2" shaft pumps 24,000 GPH to a 100' lift. That is pretty amazing. Recall from an earlier discussion, a 4" hole flows at around 15-16,000 GPH. And according to them, it operates as a blower when not actually pumping. Could you plumb the outlet into the exhaust piping-perhaps close to the thru-hull? Interesting, I did a search on Amazon looking for a price and what came up was fast-flo breast pumps! Not quite the same thing.

I think the amazon breast pump would be somewhat less effective as a bilge pump... :)

If you plumbed it into the exhaust, I would be worried about that much water hitting the exhaust pipe and unless it is pointed out to the stern, if ANY went back against the flow, it would flood the engine. Better to make a high thru-hull well above the water line for the fast flow bilge pump.

If I recall, the cost of one pump was $650 for a kit but it was a while ago. Best call them if you have questions.
 
Dang it....timing is everything, this boat is less than 2hrs from my house.
This seems like incredibly low hrs?
2013 Beneteau Swift Trawler 34 Power Boat For Sale - www.yachtworld.com

That's really not that low hours for the age. Used it two years it seems but I'd guess interest waned considerably in the second year. I'd want to know why but don't think it would be possible to find out. Moved on to other projects doesn't answer it for me. Why was this boat not right for them? There are many good reasons but some that would concern a buyer. Survey will find out though.

There are many boaters who use boats less than 50 hours per year.
 
Wow, great stuff!
My two little upgrades that come to mind:
1) My dealer was delivering a ST 44 in rolling seas when the main saloon doors slammed closed and broke the cheesy lock / latch. With no easy way to secure the door the damned thing was then out of control and banging, unless dead bolted in the open position.
I installed an additional whiteboard "keeper" tight to the jamb (see the far one in the photo, the 2 near ones are stock) which now allows me to deadbolt the door tightly closed or open a few inches. Great security at night while still allowing ventilation if needed.



Here is a better photo, (even though it came through oriented 90 degrees to the left).(?)


Also, I added a 12v power outlet near the stereo in the salon which powers and old iPod.
 

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Rub Rail

I'm considering adding a more effective rub rail, high near the cap rail, starting at the midship cleat. The bow flair renders the stock rub rail pretty useless on near the bow.

Any thoughts on this?
 
I spent quite a bit of time researching the ground issue when I bought a new Beneteau sailboat in 2006. If you look at the literature, you will find that the camps are pretty evenly split between experts who say everything should be grounded and bonded or should not be bonded. I know of no historical record that supports one side or the other. Beneteau, as the largest boat maker in the world, probably has a pretty good database to examine and deciding this issue.
 
I spent quite a bit of time researching the ground issue when I bought a new Beneteau sailboat in 2006. If you look at the literature, you will find that the camps are pretty evenly split between experts who say everything should be grounded and bonded or should not be bonded. I know of no historical record that supports one side or the other. Beneteau, as the largest boat maker in the world, probably has a pretty good database to examine and deciding this issue.

They probably do. However, I read more problems with their thru hulls (and electrolysis, etc.) than I read with those of all other boat builders combined. There is a problem. What magnitude I have no idea. Nor do I know what the cause of it is. It is however something they need to address. We have several members here who have encountered issues.
 
CeeBee-

Are those underwater lights installed through the hull, or did you run the wiring above the waterline?

Interesting about how you prefer exterior blue lights as easier on the eyes.

Hey Makobuilders Yes the underwater lights are through hull below the waterline and were installed on a haul out.

The reason for preferring the blue light (other than it looks cool :) is probably simply that the blue LED's are a lower intensity light than the previous white lights thus easier on vision at night. I believe there is also some thinking that a low intensity Blue-Green colored light technically is the best for retaining night vision in general.
 
Dang it....timing is everything, this boat is less than 2hrs from my house.
This seems like incredibly low hrs?
2013 Beneteau Swift Trawler 34 Power Boat For Sale - www.yachtworld.com

Interesting I didn't know the 34 was powered by Cummins, the 44 is Volvo Pentas which I am "so so" with. The engines have performed without fail but the EVC alarm system is a pain in the ass. If an alarm goes off (which is somewhat frequently as it can be a micro second of low voltage) there is no way to identify the fault code for a mere mortal. You have to call a Volvo Mechanic for the explanation of the "secret code" I have stalked the codes online and not found them published anywhere so you literally have to call a volvo mechanic with the fault code to understand what the issue is which is totally stupid. If anyone has them please share :)
 
The reason for preferring the blue light (other than it looks cool :) is probably simply that the blue LED's are a lower intensity light than the previous white lights thus easier on vision at night. I believe there is also some thinking that a low intensity Blue-Green colored light technically is the best for retaining night vision in general.

Any amount of light will tend to trash your night vision. If you have very short wavelength light (close to 400nm) you won't activate the red or green color receptors and will keep the rods from being bleached out as well. This will maintain your night vision, but you won't have the visual acuity to see detail. That is fine if you aren't going to need to read anything for example. However, that short a wavelength would be a very dark violet, not blue. Green would be the worst for messing up your night vision.

Red is used traditionally for nighttime nav chart use because it keeps the red cones activated to give decent visual acuity, but at close to 650nm won't activate (therefore won't bleach out) the Rods and blue and green cones.

So I think anyone who things the pretty blue underwater lights don't hurt their night vision, is really fooling themselves. The only thing that can be said is that it is better than white light. Blue will also "light up" the water more do to Rayleigh scatter than say a red light would.
 
Hi, passing along a couple of upgrades we have made on our Swift Trawler 44 thinking it might be helpful not only for other ST44 owners but also hopefully anyone “up-fitting” for offshore and coastal work. We purchased her in May of 2013 and have taken her on two California Coastal trips (SF- LA and SF to San Diego) also a number of shorter hops and overnight anchorages. We are planning a trip up the coast to the San Juan's this summer or next.

We love the boat, the ST 44 is well built for coastal work and regardless of the sea state and weather has always performed extremely well in a myriad of seas. Including an often not so kind SF Bay when Ebb tides oppose seas in “the slot”. Super happy with the build and the boat but we have made a number of alterations and additions during the time we’ve owned her.

Bilge Pumps/ Alarms
We felt the stock bilge pump (whale) in the engine room and the lack of any pumps in the bow or stern where there are thru hulls and obviously the bow where the possibility of holing is high was not the margin of safety that we desire. Additionally, there was a lack of any water intrusion alarms. The batteries sit low in the bow, engine room and stern thus we placed the alarm location as low as possible to provide early warning in the event off sea water intrusion which would quickly disable the batteries. We installed Three High Capacity Jabsco Pumps, low in each one of the locations controlled with switching and audible alarm at the main helm station. (pic below)

Handholds
We are firm believers in “One hand for you, one hand for the boat” Below decks the handholds are well designed and engineered throughout. However there was a lack of sufficient handholds on the flybridge (only one) which is where we prefer to control her from. As such, we had three fabricated and placed at the top of the stairs, on the mast and at the front of the flybridge storage area. This provides secure handholds from the stairway to the seats. Additionally, when offshore we have a jackline that can be run both above and below and be connected with a tether from our Mustang inflatable jackets.

Flir Night Vision
The best day to day, or ummm Night to Night addition was a Flir Night Vision camera. This is a critical piece of our nighttime safety equipment whether in the bay at night or night voyages. I originally felt it was awesome for detecting objects but on a night rounding of Pt Conception with fairly large, short period seas against a 25 -30 knot offshore wind it really earned it’s keep, as it allowed us to make adjustments to the course based on the ability of seeing the seas.

House Batteries
We learned on our first overnight anchorage (at 3AM) that the stock 2 house batteries were entirely insufficient for the amount of electrical drain from electronics. We added an additional 5 deep cycle batteries in the engine room and this has never been a problem again.

Charger/Inverter
The stock chargers were not up to the new storage capabilities and the stock inverter wasn't great. So we added a beefy Magnum Energy MM Series Modified Sine Wave Inverter Charger,1200 Watt Inverter, 70 Amp Charger.

MOB Alarm
Although I don’t believe they make it anymore, we installed a RayMarine Sea Talk Man overboard system with remote sensors on life jackets (or Dogs collars) which interfaces with the main RayMarine Nav system and alerts you if anyone falls overboard and you can navigate to them. We are also fans of the Midland Walkie talkies we use to stay in touch while underway and require anyone on the move to notify when safely below or above decks.

Fuel Filters
Not a fan of the main stock fuel filters as there was no sighting bowl to gauge the presence of water. The stock ST44 racors require the use of a hex nut to drain fuel into a container to look for the presence of water. We retrofitted them with Racor clear bowls and metal heat shields for the 500 series filters. (Pic)

Thru-hull Grounding
The stock thru-hulls did not come with any bonding to a ground and as such we tied all them to a ground.

Liferaft/Dan Buoys
ISO approved 4 Person Liferaft and 2 Dan Buoy SOS throwable. One Dan Buoy is mounted on the Stern and the other on the Fly Bridge so can be easily thrown if needed. A tip, if you use these DO NOT leave them out in the weather and take them inside when not underway. I learned this the hard way doing some work at the dock. The one on the flybridge inflated as the water detector “pill” had been exposed to enough water that it engaged the unit. I was below decks and it was a WTF sound :)

Door/Head locks
The Master Stateroom shower has a heavy teak seat that is raised to use the head and it did not have anyway of securing it when in the up position and was a pain in any kind of seaway so we retrofitted it with a bolt which has made all the difference in the world. All of the doors except the Main Head have magnets to secure them and we like to leave the door open when underway and when we’re not on the boat so we also had a latch installed on that door. The magnets have worked well except for a rounding on Conception where the sea was rough enough that the doors if not closed would swing.

Spares
We are constantly upgrading spares and among them carry extra fresh water, Bilge and Macerator pumps as that would be shitty if it went out.

Cooler Stuff:

We installed two underwater LED lights off the stern and LOVE them. We turn them on when at anchor. Awesome in Southern California with the clear water and sea life, they create quite a show at night. We made a number of new friends in Avalon with people coming over to witness the “living aquarium”. (Pic with Avalon in the background)

We have changed out all of the outside white LEDs with Blue ones as they are much easier on your eyes when underway at night and OK they look hella cool.

Wish List

Install fuel sighting tubes on the tanks. Crazy but there are none.

The missing 4th Windshield Wiper. For some reason there are two in front and one to far Port but the window giving you vision from 9 - 11 o clock doesn’t have one which is just odd.

Open Array Radar versus the radome. With a lot of Fog up and down the coast and often running at night I feel that the open array would provide a better solution for smaller targets.

Would LOVE dual screens especially for all nighters but there really isn’t enough room and while you can split the existing screen, the Night vision camera and radar really benefit from full screen view. I do often use my iPad for Navionics while relying on the full screen for the camera or radar.

A lot of words but hopefully useful.

CB

Just bought a 2015 ST44 so looking at some of its inadequacies and planning some upgrades...

A few questions...

1. Can you please elaborate on exact locations of the new bilge pumps? What model Jabsco did you go with? Do the actual pumps sit low enough in the areas or did you have to use extensions and mount the pumps elsewhere (kind of like what they did with the factory ones)? Did you have to drill new thru-hulls? Were you able to wire the high water alarm to both helm stations or are the switches and alarm only at one of them? I am also interested in having an alarm in the master stateroom..

2. Where did you add the house batteries? Which ones / capacity did you go with? I am trying to see if I can remove some of the ballast that came factory installed on the port side and put some batteries in place or relocate existing to there to cut down on weight.

3. I like what you did with the fuel filters. Will need to add that to my list!

4. Can you please share a picture and part # for the modifications you did to the master stateroom shower teak seat etc?

5. Did you ever add dual screen raymarines? I was contemplating that as I am a big fan of dual screens at work but the real estate is lacking on the dash.

Thank you!!
 
Starting to plan for my upgrades.

Probably going to copy MichaelB1969 on things he has done such as smoke/fire, bilge, etc

Reached out to Racor to see if I can get the clear bowl kit. I found part #RK15437 but don't know if its right and don't see it coming up as a valid part # to buy from anywhere.

For the house batteries, I want to see if I can fit four 6v golf cart batteries in place of the two Exide ER660 and possibly two or four additional in place of the lead ballast on the port side. I need to figure out how the chargers are wired and possibly upgrade as when I run my generator, it will take a 25a charger a while to charge a 500-1,000 AH bank. Was thinking about a wind turbine on the mast but dont think there is room/it can handle...
 
Sirena alarm going off 44 trawler , what is it for anyone know , engines off battery ofg


Sirena alarm going off 44 trawler , what is it for anyone know , engines off battery ofg

Sorry but you have offered almost nothing in the way of detail for anyone to make an educated guess.
Photos of the dash board?, boat mfgr. year and size?

It could be simply a faulty alarm, high bilge water, electrical fault, high temperature alarm, or some other source.

Locate the siren and trace the wiring back to the source of the alarm.

4fun1 has likely the only answer that can be made at this point.
 
Sirena alarm going off 44 trawler , what is it for anyone know , engines off battery ofg

So up date , Beneteau, 44 swift trawler , yr 2013
Sirena manufacturers of the alarm going off intermittently! It’s located under dash and the wires go into a casing with many other ones , not really traceable. Engines off, engines battery off, no water in bilge , the numbers on alarm say , 12 volt then 50/60 hz. Ya 50 c also has bip, 92 it’s black in color , any ideas would be helpful thx
 
So up date , Beneteau, 44 swift trawler , yr 2013

Sirena manufacturers of the alarm going off intermittently! It’s located under dash and the wires go into a casing with many other ones , not really traceable. Engines off, engines battery off, no water in bilge , the numbers on alarm say , 12 volt then 50/60 hz. Ya 50 c also has bip, 92 it’s black in color , any ideas would be helpful thx



Is it Siren or Sirena? The first I have heard of, the other I have not.

I’d start with the manual for the device.

And I don’t know what Ya 50 c is, or bip, or 92.
 
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