Varnish
- Thread starter MT Nest
- Start date
The friendliest place on the web for anyone who enjoys boating.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
ancora
Guru
- Joined
- Dec 16, 2007
- Messages
- 4,042
All I use on my Nova sundeck trawler is Epiphanes Rapidcoat. The finish is not as glossy as Cetol, but it is easier to use (no sanding between coats) and no problems about getting a drop on your fiberglass. Comes right off with thinner. No need for high priced brushes as it "lays down" easily. I use scratch brushes and toss them after using. If you are looking for a "concorde de elegance" finish, use something else.
Phil Fill
Guru
- Joined
- Oct 11, 2007
- Messages
- 2,919
- Location
- US
- Vessel Name
- Eagle
- Vessel Make
- Roughwater 58 pilot house
sorry I posted this before realizing I wnated to post under PNW boats....varnish, cetol.
The Eagle has more teak deck and trim than most boats and is out in the weather year around. The best is to cover/protect the bright work as much as possible, which the pilot house and stern canvas really help. However, that still leaves the front deck and the rest of the trim. The front teak deck is sealed with several coats of Daily Sea Fin which is very thin as is soaks into the teak the tiny calking and fasteners. In the winter a blue trap is over the top which keeps 90% of the winter weather off the teak deck.
Being the Eagle is sway/whale back and deck/roof crowned, the water run to the center of the boat, so there are areas that have a larger volume of rain water. The long teak rub rail the goes all the way around the boat is the biggest problem. The seams I have ground out/down and filled with West system Epoxy with mixture of #4 and #7 additive which is sort of tan in color, then a fiber glass cloth matt, and multi coats of varnish over. For the last two years the failure has be caused by the caulking failing which allows water/moisture under. I use 5200, but in areas it has failed.
I have tried most of the finishes, and have keep come back to varnish as it gives the best clear/gloss finish. I really like the Interlux one part polyurethane, but they stop making it. So for the last two years I been using Pettit 2015 Flagship Varnish with very good results. This last winter there were 3 places it failed which was on the rub rail which was not to much of a surprise.
75% of the exposed bright work has lasted for many years as they have 6+ coats and a new re coat every year. I let dry until the next day, and lightly sand between each coat, as the applying multi coats does not seem to hold up. So the teak decks and trim are a yearly maintenance item, since we live on the boat, I find it easy and relaxing.
Oh, I forgot on the back deck since it protected I use a gym floor vanish that dries hard
The Eagle has more teak deck and trim than most boats and is out in the weather year around. The best is to cover/protect the bright work as much as possible, which the pilot house and stern canvas really help. However, that still leaves the front deck and the rest of the trim. The front teak deck is sealed with several coats of Daily Sea Fin which is very thin as is soaks into the teak the tiny calking and fasteners. In the winter a blue trap is over the top which keeps 90% of the winter weather off the teak deck.
Being the Eagle is sway/whale back and deck/roof crowned, the water run to the center of the boat, so there are areas that have a larger volume of rain water. The long teak rub rail the goes all the way around the boat is the biggest problem. The seams I have ground out/down and filled with West system Epoxy with mixture of #4 and #7 additive which is sort of tan in color, then a fiber glass cloth matt, and multi coats of varnish over. For the last two years the failure has be caused by the caulking failing which allows water/moisture under. I use 5200, but in areas it has failed.
I have tried most of the finishes, and have keep come back to varnish as it gives the best clear/gloss finish. I really like the Interlux one part polyurethane, but they stop making it. So for the last two years I been using Pettit 2015 Flagship Varnish with very good results. This last winter there were 3 places it failed which was on the rub rail which was not to much of a surprise.
75% of the exposed bright work has lasted for many years as they have 6+ coats and a new re coat every year. I let dry until the next day, and lightly sand between each coat, as the applying multi coats does not seem to hold up. So the teak decks and trim are a yearly maintenance item, since we live on the boat, I find it easy and relaxing.
Oh, I forgot on the back deck since it protected I use a gym floor vanish that dries hard
Last edited:
BruceK
Moderator Emeritus
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2011
- Messages
- 13,557
- Vessel Name
- Sojourn
- Vessel Make
- Integrity 386
Just done annual maintenance on my cockpit teak cappings using Deks Olje 2. I use Cetol TGL Gloss Plus where I know the finish can last a while, but on exposed cappings I know won`t last using varnish,I use the Deks Olje system of oil saturation (no.1) after getting back to bare wood, followed by gloss (no.2). Appearance is acceptable (for me) though inferior to varnish but the ease of maintenance without heavy frequent sanding and wood loss makes it a viable compromise. BruceK
- Joined
- Apr 15, 2008
- Messages
- 13,738
- Location
- California Delta
- Vessel Name
- FlyWright
- Vessel Make
- 1977 Marshall Californian 34 LRC
I just ordered two qts of Epifane's Wood Finish Gloss.
Welcome to Epifanes - the world's finest yacht coatings
It's an alternative to their gloss varnish that allows recoating without sanding if done within 72 hrs.
I haven't used it yet, but I'm hoping for results similar to my Epifane's Gloss Varnish which are supposed to be indescernible from the varnish. I plan to finish with a couple coats of varnish for enhanced UV protection. It costs more, but I'll appreciate the saved time and labor of no sanding.
Welcome to Epifanes - the world's finest yacht coatings
It's an alternative to their gloss varnish that allows recoating without sanding if done within 72 hrs.
I haven't used it yet, but I'm hoping for results similar to my Epifane's Gloss Varnish which are supposed to be indescernible from the varnish. I plan to finish with a couple coats of varnish for enhanced UV protection. It costs more, but I'll appreciate the saved time and labor of no sanding.
I used epifanes Woodfinish Gloss on my trawler and my bayliner 45. on the 45 I just stripped it all down and put 7 coats on it- still want to do 3 more coats but gotta leave some projects to do later on ha!
On the 45':
On our Monk:
On the 45':
On our Monk:
