Wow, I see some outrageous charges for an oil change here. I do mine myself. .
No, you see a misclassification, calling it a charge for an oil change. It's far more being done.
Wow, I see some outrageous charges for an oil change here. I do mine myself. .
You are either amazingly fast or your watch is broken. I would love to watch you do this in under an hour. Perhaps you could post a video.
I just checked my log book for my last oil change. It did take over an hour. In fact I was aboard the boat for 2 hours 25 minutes. Of course, that time included the hour and a half run I did on the boat before changing the oil.
Note, I have all the tools needed on the boat. Oil changes are simple.
If I dont have this oil hose pre-installed, what is the best way to extract the oil?
Huge project
MYSTERY:
Changed my ST44's oil for the 1st time this fall. Each engine took +/- 1 hour.
Purchased a REVERSO portable 12 v pump that you use to suck the oil out of the secondary oil pan tube.(Black tube with a removable cap that connects to the oil pan). Also changed the crankcase breather - (remove and replace) and air filters.
Previously I changed impellers - +/- 1 hour for both.
Fuel filter as about the same time - but a little more technical since you have to bleed the air out of the system. VP's manual is pretty good at the oil and filter changes.
I try to limit my PM efforts to 3 different activities (1) fuel filters, primary and secondary (2) Oil/Air/Etc filters and (3) Impellers.
It is easy to loose your enthusiasm trying to work more than a few hours in the ST44's engine room.
Also - anodes are +/- 30 mins.
Not bad at all and gave me knowledge on PM in the event we are away from our dock.
Next year I will give the AFT in the trans a try.
VP supplies are what they are - stay with VP's stuff. Might cost you a few bucks more but no issues so far.
Genset was even easier - oil change and fuel filters +/- 1 hour.
Key was the REVERSO pump. If I recall about $400 dollars.
Good luck
There are filters on the gear cases.
Any idea how they come out if I want more headroom?
Thank you for that video!
I read the manual, can I use the reverso pump and suck out the fluid and then connect it to the suction pipe at the bottom of the housing which should be 5/8" outer diameter? Any idea how I prevent contamination from using the same Reverso pump on the main engine oil change?
Thank you
MYSTERY:
RACOR filter is easy - if you have a bottom drain - drain a cup or so out of the bottom until clear diesel can bee seen. I installed a petcock to help this out. Remove top cover and slowly pull out filter. The RACOR has plastic handles. I cover the entire area in rags since you will spill a bit of diesel. I also have a bucket near to place the old filter in.
Insert the new filter and fill to the top with clean diesel, replace cap and you are done. A small plastic canister with a lid helps to do this. (Push the filter down so you don't overfill since when you screw the cap back, the filter is pushed down a bit in the body of the canister. If you don't do this, fuel will spill out when the cap is installed).
I carry a gallon or so of clean diesel to do this if I have a clogged filter on a trip.
VP filters:
Buy a spare water in filter sensor!!!!! (+/- $70)
Remove the WIF connector. (I leave the WIF fuel sensor on the old filter) Remove the old VP filter. Install the new WIF sensor on the new filter, install the filter and reconnect the WIF connector. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE WIF SENSOR to the new filter. I broke my spare by slightly over tightening!!! Don't forget to remove WIF sensor from old filter and save. This will give you a spare and can be used next filter change.
Get a clear plastic tube about 3' long and a small bucket. Install the tube on the drain plug. Carefully loosen the drain plug - DO NOT REMOVE - Only loosen enough until fuel drains through the plastic tube. Pump the top plunger until you get clear fuel and no bubbles - then do a few more times. Tighten everything up and then pump the plunger 5 or more times - will take a little bit of pressure. Take a look at VP's manual for the number of times to pump after all is back together.
Once all is back together, put the gear shift into "throttle only" and crank the engine over. If it does not start after a few seconds you will most likely need to bleed again. (the RACOR does not need bleeding)
I did the starboard engine 1st time so I did not have to snake to the port engine to figure out how to do!!!
Most importantly - close the fuel valves before you change either filter.
Good luck
Wow. I am glad I stuck to my guns when I bought a boat. If it had Volvo, I passed it by. High costs for parts, I.E. the impeller you are replacing cost about $250. My cost for Cats $43.
Volvo loves there parts way too much. Good luck mystery. You will get there.
For what it's worth, we just replaced our Volvo branded impellers for 80.00 a piece. Not sure where you got quoted 250.00.
I found an older manual online
Get manuals for every piece of machinery and equipment you have and manuals that match the year you have. Most available online, but if not, get from the manufacturer of the equipment. This is something I'm very rigid about with anything I own. Yours is not an old boat so it shouldn't be hard.
**snip** Thank you TF!!!!
Ok figured out the coolant... I need to see if I have yellow (VCS) which is recommended or green. They cannot be mixed. Looks like the service interval is every four years or 800 hours... so I will only check levels... won't buy spare coolant until I get to the boat to check color.