• Trawler Forum Classified Posting Guidelines
    • We expect ads placed to be related to the topic of this forum.
    • Ads that are inactive for 180 days or longer may be moved to the Classified Archive and locked. Ads may be relisted if the item is still current. Alternatively, owners may contact a Moderator to reinstate an archived ad.
    • The Classified section is for advertising, members are asked to refrain from posting discussions to a Classified Ad. Please start a discussion thread or PM the owner for discussions.
    • Do not hijack another member's ad by posting unsolicited commentary. Example: if a member has posted an ad offering an anchor for sale, don't add a post to his thread stating that you have an anchor you'd like to get rid of also. Posts deemed as unsolicited commentary may be removed.
    • For your own security, do NOT include your e-mail or phone number in your ad. Instead request that interested parties contact you via PM (private message) to provide owners contact info.
    • Brokers, Dealers, or those with a commercial interest in a sale are prohibited from posting in Classifieds.
    • Only Trawler Forum Commercial Members may post ads in the Commercial section. You must be a designated Commercial Member to start threads in this section of the forum. (Contact a moderator if you have questions about this)
    • Don't post links to commercial sites where you are also offering the boat, such as eBay, Craigslist or Yachtworld, etc. unless it contains a more in-depth description, additional information or pictures.
    • Place only one ad per item (you may repost only when your ad has expired and been removed).
    For Sale ads MUST include:
    • Asking price
    • Location
    • A Basic Description
    • Clear statement whether you are the owner or non-owner (posting for friend, relative, or acquaintance)
    • Don't forget to select: FOR SALE, WANTED or FREE in the Title block.
    All ads should also include ALL the following:
    • Pertinent maintenance and condition information
    • Exterior picture or pictures
    • Interior picture or pictures (boats)
    For maximum impact & exposure, it is suggested the Ad Title include: Year, Manufacturer, Model, Length, Price, and Location or at the very top of the ad body. When your item has sold or the ad is no longer relevant: Please post a Reply to the ad that the item is SOLD or click "Report Post" on post 1 of the thread to ask a moderator to archive the ad. Ads may be moved or removed by our staff at any time for any reason. All ads must comply with site rules. Thanks for your cooperation.
  • Avoid Scams.

    Our classifieds are free and anyone registered here is welcome to post an ad.
    Be aware that there are unscrupulous folks out there. Avoid any interaction that seems odd to you or �feels� wrong. Inquiries from unknown buyers, buyers �agents� and other non-traditional approaches should be treated with extreme caution.

    Beware of unsolicited contacts offering to put you in touch with someone else who is buying or selling via e-mail or text.

    Do not post your e-mail address or phone number in a classifieds ad.

    Hints that you may be dealing with a Scammer:
    • Seller or Buyer approaches you via a direct email or PM and then steers you to an off-site communication method (text or email).
    • No posts or very few forum posts.
    • Recent forum membership
    • Insists on conducting negotiations via email or text rather than PM
    • Requires payment via Bank Transfer, BitCoin/CryptoCurrency, WesternUnion or other unsecured method.
    • Buyer or Seller suggests Paypal "Friends and Family" payment. Paypal is a good way to arrange payment but an invoice for goods and services should be used rather than "Friends and Family". "Friends and Family" avoids fees BUT there is no recourse if the transaction runs aground. Friends and Family is for gifts only. There is no protection for Friends and Family transactions, so never ever use it to buy something.
    • Declines to allow viewing the item before proceeding with the transaction.

Wanted: Want To Purchase Mainship 30

The friendliest place on the web for anyone who enjoys boating.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Feb 13, 2014
Messages
2
Location
USA
Looking for a very well maintained
Hardtop Mainship Pilot 30
2003 Newer..
White or Blue Hull
Rum Runner
Auto Pilot
Location. .any
Surveyed 2 already
Failed Survey
 
First off, can you tell us a little about the two that "failed" and why?

And why are you hellbent on a 2003? I do realize that was the first year of the Pilot2 and there are significant differences to the original. Just curious.

Finally...don't discount the tan gelcoated Pilots. I have always thought tan gelcoat adds a touch of class to a boat. I used to have a tan 2004. And put next to a white one....the tan just looks a bt better. Anyway, totally subjective.
 
Looking for a 2003 or newer
Prefer. 2006.07.08

The two. One 2006
Other 2007

Haven't seen tan..just
Fighting Yellow

One had 4 X2 ft delamation
On the cockpit floor
Needed all new hoses..New
Canvas..many scratches on hull
One had. Very elevated moister
Readings..needed detailed...
Water in bilges.

I am very very selective..
Detailed. Precise..
 
Welcome. Boats don't normally fail inspection....they just get priced accordingly. Good luck with your search!
 
Looking for a 2003 or newer
Prefer. 2006.07.08

The two. One 2006
Other 2007

Haven't seen tan..just
Fighting Yellow

One had 4 X2 ft delamation
On the cockpit floor
Needed all new hoses..New
Canvas..many scratches on hull
One had. Very elevated moister
Readings..needed detailed...
Water in bilges.

I am very very selective..
Detailed. Precise..

Okay...understood. The only thing I would not necessarily "ding" would be water in the bilge. Mainship did not plumb the air conditioner condensate to go anywhere. It just drained into the bilge up under the berth. And then it would make it's way back to around the engine(No limber holes under engine) and make its way to the back of the bilge.

Her are two "tan" boats. One is hardtop off of Yachtworld....the other is a softop that happens to be my old boat. If you have any other questions ref these boats, feel free to ask. I had mine for almost 7 years and REALLY enjoyed it. There are other "previous owners" on here that also have a favorable opinion of this boat. My only caution about a hardtop is that if you boat in hot climates(i.e. Gulf coast and/or Florida), you will absolutely roast inside of there. I know the two forward windows open and there are overhead hatches...but it still sin't enough. Not trying to convince you of anything. Just FYI. In hot climes, you need all the airflow you can get and the hardtop does not allow you as much.
 

Attachments

  • 3670567_3_20110708131526_1_0.jpg
    3670567_3_20110708131526_1_0.jpg
    44 KB · Views: 187
  • newboat.jpg
    newboat.jpg
    119.4 KB · Views: 152
I am the owner of a Pilot 34 and looked hard at the 30, so I can offer the following observations from some experience:

1. The hardtop isn't so bad. Here in NC it is fine 98% of the time. It also gives you a place to mount a radar dome, spotlight, solar panels if so inclined and looks better than the soft top.

2. I would look for a 30 with the 315 hp Yanmar 6LP. The other engine that was offered was the 240 hp 4LH. The 4 is marginal for cruising at 15 kts. It takes about 150 hp to push that hull to 15 kts and taking that much out of the 4 long term is a bit much. Both are great engines btw, but the 6 is smoother.

David
 
Last edited:
In my opinion the second one likely didn't " fail" (what was the surveyor's opinion?) and the first one would be interested in the actual extent of the issues. . It will be very difficult to find perfect 6 year old boat, heck it is difficult to find a perfect NEW boat. I like those little Mainships; we belonged to a charter club that at one point had a an example of every model in the fleet. Over all, good honest boats.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I am the owner of a Pilot 34 and looked hard at the 30, so I can offer the following observations from some experience:

1. The hardtop isn't so bad. Here in NC it is fine 98% of the time. It also gives you a place to mount a radar dome, spotlight, solar panels if so inclined and looks better than the soft top.

2. I would look for a 30 with the 315 hp Yanmar 6LP. The other engine that was offered was the 240 hp 4LH. The 4 is marginal for cruising at 15 kts. It takes about 150 hp to push that hull to 15 kts and taking that much out of the 4 long term is a bit much. Both are great engines btw, but the 6 is smoother.

David

Good to hear and fully agree ref your #1 point. They are better looking and do provide you with a place to mount things.

My boat was 4LHA powered. And we cruised at 15kts at 2800rpms. According to the manual, you are dead on correct. That should yield about 150hp. Max continuous power is 190hp(3100rpms). So that is running at 79% power(150/190) based on max continuous. I personally never felt I was straining the boat at all. In fact, I bought it with 150 hours and sold it with a little over a 1000. And that thing never gave me any trouble whatsoever. BUT, like you said, the straight 6 is gonna be smoother. Anyway, based on my experience and if I were in the market, I would not hesitate to buy one with the 4LHA in it. Great little engine and probably burn about 1-2gph less. BTW, if you base loading on max output, 2800rpms would be 62% power(150/240). I always wondered how you should base it. Like I said, I never felt I was hurting the engine. AND, I was significantly underpropped. I could achieve 3600rpms on a 3300rpm motor. So I had margin there as well and is probably more important reference engine longevity.

Again, not trying to convince anyone. Just stating my experience!!!

The Mainship Pilots offer great value in their size range. They are handsome boats as well. And the absolute most important thing that people don't think about when buying a boat is...."usability"!!! It is about the most useable boat on Earth in it's size range. The more usable a boat is, the MORE LIKELY YOU ARE TO USE IT!!!!!! It is such an easy boat to handle!! My only knock on them is interior space...and that is why I sold mine. The interior of a 30 is tiny!!! But when my eyes wander from my current boat(which isn't much), they wander to the 34!
 
Last edited:
Baker:

If you were propped to reach 3,600 at wot with a 4LH then running at 2,800 is not hurting a thing. In fact you were probably putting out more like 120 hp to run at 15 kts. The hull must be more efficient than I thought.

A good rule of thumb (espoused by Tony Athens over on boatdiesel) is to cruise at 40 hp per liter or less for long engine life. 120 hp is about 35 hp/l on that engine.

So with the 315 hp Yanmar it would probably cruise nicely at 18 kts.

And yes, the 34 is a nice, very usable boat. When we were looking I was interested in a Pilot 30 to save a few bucks, but my wife wanted a 34. Guess which one we got? I don't regret it a bit.

David
 
Last edited:
Baker:

If you were propped to reach 3,600 at wot with a 4LH then running at 2,800 is not hurting a thing. In fact you were probably putting out more like 120 hp to run at 15 kts. The hull must be more efficient than I thought.

David

The Pilot II had a significantly different hull than the previous Pilots. I do not know if that was transferred over to the Pilot 34. The prop is in a tunnel. It is a 5 bladed very beautiful propeller. The prop shaft exited the hull at almost midship(immediately behind the engine) and the keel was cutaway at that point. And the very deep V at the front of the hull goes flat sooner than on the older boats. The shaft carried on for about 10ft (almost)unprotected to a very big and weird impressively sized strut. With a "shoe" running the full length from the cutaway keel to the rudder. Actually the shoe was two pieces that split at the strut. While it appeared somewhat vulnerable, I never really felt it was....the front part of the keel would still absorb any impact. I honestly think the Mainship folks got this one right...getting something for almost nothing. You would think it would pound because of the flatness aft....but it never did. The bottom line was....there was more lift in the hull. There was more thrust along the longitudinal axis of the boat. And the prop was more properly fitted to the needs of the boat. And since most of the prop and hardware were semi tucked away in the tunnel(and behind the keel), I don't think you are giving anything up ref protection. A very close friend of mine has a 1998 Pilot with a 4LHA-STE...230hp(only 10hp less) and cruises in the mid 12s at 2800rpms. So 2kts+ with virtually the same horsepower is not bad at all. While the layout was changed with the Pilot II(to be honest, I liked the old layout), the hull changes were very significant and advantageous! 2003 was the first year of the Pilot II and likely the reason the OP is seeking that model or later....
 
Last edited:
RE: Mainship Pilot 30 Information

Good to hear and fully agree ref your #1 point. They are better looking and do provide you with a place to mount things.

My boat was 4LHA powered. And we cruised at 15kts at 2800rpms. According to the manual, you are dead on correct. That should yield about 150hp. Max continuous power is 190hp(3100rpms). So that is running at 79% power(150/190) based on max continuous. I personally never felt I was straining the boat at all. In fact, I bought it with 150 hours and sold it with a little over a 1000. And that thing never gave me any trouble whatsoever. BUT, like you said, the straight 6 is gonna be smoother. Anyway, based on my experience and if I were in the market, I would not hesitate to buy one with the 4LHA in it. Great little engine and probably burn about 1-2gph less. BTW, if you base loading on max output, 2800rpms would be 62% power(150/240). I always wondered how you should base it. Like I said, I never felt I was hurting the engine. AND, I was significantly underpropped. I could achieve 3600rpms on a 3300rpm motor. So I had margin there as well and is probably more important reference engine longevity.

Again, not trying to convince anyone. Just stating my experience!!!

The Mainship Pilots offer great value in their size range. They are handsome boats as well. And the absolute most important thing that people don't think about when buying a boat is...."usability"!!! It is about the most useable boat on Earth in it's size range. The more usable a boat is, the MORE LIKELY YOU ARE TO USE IT!!!!!! It is such an easy boat to handle!! My only knock on them is interior space...and that is why I sold mine. The interior of a 30 is tiny!!! But when my eyes wander from my current boat(which isn't much), they wander to the 34!
You guys have a lot of good information on the Pilot 30. Initially I was looking at 2000 - 2002s, I've since started looking for a 2003 with the new semi displacement hull, planning at 7 knots & better on fuel sold me. I was originally looking foe the 4LH, I've pretty much started looking for the 6LP. Understanding that the 6LP will burn a little more fuel but it would be nice to have the power when you need it. I live on the Bras D'or lakes in Cape Breton, Nova Scotia, so that's where the boat will be primarily used.
Keep up the good work, you're a great resource for someone wanting to step up from an 18 footer to the Pilot 30.
Thanks,
 
i was talking about National yacht liquiators the repo site - sorry i was away, it isn't on the inventory anymore
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Latest posts

Back
Top Bottom