Water in Gauge

[jhance]

When they get to this point, any remedy other than replacing? Doesn't look like you can really get inside unit?

 

[boomerang]

I'd drill a hole in the case to let it breathe. Nothing ventured ,nothing gained.

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. jh. What Mr. b said. When you DO get it dried out I'd apply Capt. Tolly's Creeping Crack cure to the rim between the cover and the bezel.

 

[STB]

It isngoing to be hard this season, depending upon where you are.

I'd replace it.

If I was going to try to keep it, I'd wait for a really hot day, drill a hole in the bottom, turn it upside-down/hole-up, let as much as possible evaporate out, then tape a desiccant pack there, wait for the coldest part of night, and repeat as long as it is improving. FIinally, I'd seal up both the hole and the bezel. I'd use an elastomeric sealant, not Tolly's. Basically a good "caulking".

But, again, personally, I'd replace it.

 

[Bmarler]

You can also bake it in an electric oven to dry it out after making some allowance for ventilation.
After it’s out of the dashboard you may simply be able to open it up. Look for any vent holes that may have been plugged, clean them out if so. After getting them dried out, use cyanoacrylate glue around the bezel to seal any cracks. That glue has great capillary action and will wick into the cracks.

 

[jgwinks]

Putting it in a container of uncooked rice might work, it does for wet phones. I like the super glue idea, it's crystal clear so any that doesn't wick into the gap won't be very visible.

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. jg. Indeed one would like something that "wicks" into any gaps. That's why I suggested C. Tolley's (CT). Super glue seems to cure quite hard while I think CT retains some flexibility. No idea about the adherence of CT to glass but super glue is very poor.

Caulking would leave some visible residues although it should remain flexible.

 

[STB]

Tolley's claims elasticity, but doesn't seem to provide a number, or thresholding or bounding comparison. It is described as an acrylic co-polymer, so I'm guessing some type of acrylate suspension. If that's the case, it should have non-trivial elasticity, but I couldn't guess how much.

My only concern with Tolley's w.r.t. elasticity isn't the chemistry, it's that how much movement something can tolerate is also a function of the bead size. I worry that Tolley's is thin enough that it'll seal the crack deep in where it is thin and, therefore, have less to give.

I like sealing things like this with clear or color matched elastomeric sealant, i.e. caulk, and get a good bead to provide enough material to allow the stretching

 

[SteveK]

I like sealing things like this with clear or color matched elastomeric sealant, i.e. caulk, and get a good bead to provide enough material to allow the stretching

I like and use Tolley as it does wick into crevices.

STB, why not use some and also use your surface caulk to finish the job

 

[STB]

I like and use Tolley as it does wick into crevices.

STB, why not use some and also use your surface caulk to finish the job

Belt and suspenders, I guess!

 

[jhance]

Thank you for the suggestions. Question: what exact part are you referring to as the "bezel?" Seems like if I drill a small hole at the bottom of the clear plastic, that will let it drain/ventilate. Then use the sealant around the edges of the clear plastic where I can see some cracking. Maybe just leave the hole there to always let it ventilate, or seal the hole after it's all dry?

 

[STB]

Thank you for the suggestions. Question: what exact part are you referring to as the "bezel?" Seems like if I drill a small hole at the bottom of the clear plastic, that will let it drain/ventilate. Then use the sealant around the edges of the clear plastic where I can see some cracking. Maybe just leave the hole there to always let it ventilate, or seal the hole after it's all dry?

I was thinking around the back of the bezel. Maybe the front by the clear glass, too. That would be one for Tolley's. Caulk would look rough, I suspect. I guess you could go clear and thin and clean up well. But I bet it'd never look right.

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. jh. Bezel is the outer trim ring. I would NOT alter the outer surface of the gauge (lens/watch glass) at all by drilling into it. It might be glass rather than plastic in which case, attempts to put a hole in it may result in irreparable breakage. On the other hand if the lens IS plastic, judicious use of super glue may work for sealing existing cracks.

As suggested, drill your hole on the backside (gauge body). Putting the whole gauge in a warm (less than 200F, if possible) oven might accelerate drying out or gently heat the whole gauge with a hair dryer? Perhaps there is a lightbulb c/w socket on the backside. No drilling necessary.

I'm assuming these gauges are exposed to the weather at some point so sealing the exposed (outer) part is pretty well mandatory unless you want to be repeating this exercise down the road (river)...

 

[jgwinks]

My 1973 vintage gauges already have a couple holes in the bottom but a couple of them have a little moisture under the lenses anyway. Not sure if the lens area is sealed from the rest of the gauge but that seems pretty unlikely. Now that you've got me thinking about it maybe I'll take them out for the winter and try the rice thing. I'm replacing the tachs anyway but they're not wet, they just don't work properly.

 

[STB]

My 1973 vintage gauges already have a couple holes in the bottom but a couple of them have a little moisture under the lenses anyway. Not sure if the lens area is sealed from the rest of the gauge but that seems pretty unlikely. Now that you've got me thinking about it maybe I'll take them out for the winter and try the rice thing. I'm replacing the tachs anyway but they're not wet, they just don't work properly.

None thst I've taken apart have had the face and bezel unit sealed separately from the reat of the housing. YMMV.

I've seen a lot of gauges drilled, I assume tonaddress this, but, of course, as the weather changes, it condenses back again unless you get the moisture out and reseal.

 

[Comodave]

I would just replace the gauge since they are or have been wet inside. There can be corrosion going on inside the gauge. I am in the process of having a new gauge panel made for my boat since several have cracked bezels. Fortunately Formula has a contractor that has all of the CAD drawings for the original dash panels. He has made 2 panels for me so far and they fit perfectly, all the screw holes lined up exactly. Unfortunately the 25 year old style of gauges are no longer available so I have to go to a newer style. That means new senders for the oil pressure and temperature gauges. The new senders should be here Tuesdays and we will get them installed on the engines while I have the oil coolers off. The oil cooler will obstruct access to the senders so now is the perfect time to change the senders.

 

[Marco Flamingo]

I've seen condensation in some of my guages because of temp/humidity conditions, but nothing like the pictures. That much moisture has to be a breach of the front seal (assuming these are exposed to weather). No need to drill any holes as a fairly large one already exists if the gauge is lighted. Pull the light plug and shoot the glass bezel with a hair dryer. Let cool and repeat. Once the gauge is free of condensation, I'd use Captain Tolleys. Probably best if the gauge was removed and face up. The bezel isn't going to change size because of heat enough to bother the CT. CT gets gummy when wet and is more flexible. More complex and time consuming solutions undoubtedly exist, but that's where I'd start.