Windlass Help Needed

[menzies]

The parts diagram normally shows the new style clutch cones you have the old ones. The four bolts mentioned (not the pins on the clutch cones) hold the gearbox to the side of the casing casing.

I think your key may be damaged and jamming in the slot in the shaft and the clutch casing. Try and rotate it backwards and forwards a little and it may release the pressure on the key.

I rebuilt our old one this time last year. Lots of fun. The clutch cones I had (old style) slipped straight off the shaft.

Have you messaged Will Vroomans from Maxwell? He is very helpful.

Nope, the key slides forward and back in the slot easily. Aware of what the bolts are for, see post #23 above.

 

[menzies]

If you get really desperate take the windlass off the deck and turn it over. There are two circlips on the shaft that hold the shaft in place. If you can get one or both off the shaft you can hopefully slide it the right way, remove it and take the shaft to a shop to have the clutch removed.

Get a collection of good quality circlip pliers. It is like doing brain surgery through your rectum.

Won't work. The cone on the other side (dual windlass) is also frozen to the shaft.

 

[garychurch]

I gave the same windless. Why are you try to remove the inner cone brake? It turns with the motor (hydraulic or electric) and should not slip.

The well greased parts you remove use friction to tighten or release the wildcats.

Trying to understand what is wrong with your windless.

 

[C lectric]

Have you contacted the mfgr. yet for some advice? I'll guess they have run into this problem before and may have some specific advice.


Have you tried heat? It is a common and effective means of getting frozen parts to release.
Just pay attention to what you do with the torches after the heating or you may burn yourself or the deck from a hot torch.
If you are fooling around too much with what to do with the torch you may lose the opportunity and the cone will cool off to much. Rig a holder, doesn't have to be fancy. FOrgot I used a couple old degraded zincs screwed to the holder for weight.

I think I have seen the question asked already but cannot not spot it so so will ask again. Have you popped out those buttons on the cone to see if they are threaded. If they are then try some bolts to figure out the threading and use a puller. Make a 4 bolt puller so the pull is more even so less likely to damage the cone.

 

[Greggnvt]

HWC Windless

I have this windless as well. Why are you trying to get these off?

 

[menzies]

I gave the same windless. Why are you try to remove the inner cone brake? It turns with the motor (hydraulic or electric) and should not slip.

The well greased parts you remove use friction to tighten or release the wildcats.

Trying to understand what is wrong with your windless.

I have an issue with the four bolts that connect the whole shebang to the motor. I need to get at those.

 

[menzies]

Have you contacted the mfgr. yet for some advice? I'll guess they have run into this problem before and may have some specific advice.


Have you tried heat? It is a common and effective means of getting frozen parts to release.
Just pay attention to what you do with the torches after the heating or you may burn yourself or the deck from a hot torch.
If you are fooling around too much with what to do with the torch you may lose the opportunity and the cone will cool off to much.

I think I have seen the question asked already but cannot not spot it so so will ask again. Have you popped out those buttons on the cone to see if they are threaded. If they are then try some bolts to figure out the threading and use a puller. Make a 4 bolt puller so the pull is more even so less likely to damage the cone.

Will from Vetus/Maxwell was on the phone with us last time up.

Mechanic used the heat gun this afternoon and got the cone off!!!

Once he took the manual retrieval plate off he found one bolt sheared off, three others loose, two of those bent.

Felt like 105 on that foredeck.

So now to undo the four bolts holding the unit to the deck, turn it over, and position the motor so we can get new bolts in with Loctite and perhaps see what caused the failure.

Also need to loosen the cone on the other side as well while we are at it.

 

[C lectric]

Just glad you got it free.
I'm sure you know but when reassembling use so waterproof grease [ outboard eng. prop shaft grease} in the cone bores or an antiseeze product so it won't freeze again.

 

[foreverunderway]

Both. Directly hit with a rubber mallet, indirectly with a small sledge on a piece of 2/4. No movement. I will keep soaking in PB Blaster and trying.

One other thing. Yesterday it was 98 here. I took off all of the other gypsy wheels etc. and laid them on a drop cloth on the fore deck. When it came time to put them back on I couldn't even touch them, they were so hot. Had to cover them for a while before getting them back on!

If you start beating on that you are going to blow the shaft seal. The brass should heat much faster than the stainless shaft
I can't see how that wouldn't solve your problem easily. However, the home made puller would also do the trick.

Just stop beating on it. It isn't an uncooperative child. lol

 

[HiDHo]

Great the mechanic got it apart.
Know the question is why did the bolts fail ?

 

[menzies]

Great the mechanic got it apart.
Know the question is why did the bolts fail ?

The guy at Maxwell wants the casing turned over and photos taken of underneath so that he can try and answer that question

I am not sure what he is looking for but I guess he knows his business!