Would you run aground on purpose

[hollywood8118]

Go For It!

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Get a number of old car tires to place on the low side.. and a some old scraps of carpet . A gentle slope beach works better than a flat.*

Take pictures for the folks who think it is a horrible idea

HOLLYWOOD

 

[FlyWright]

SD, I love your spirit. I wish I could be there to 'help', which is code for watching, drinking beer while sitting up your high rail, and wishing you well as I cheered you on and recorded your adventure for a possible YouTube posting!!

Take a close look at the boat on the far left in Marin's Mousehole picture. He has some sort of footing or support attached to the gunwales which keeps his boat upright and balanced on the keel. Maybe it'd be easy to fashion some sort of side support to keep her upright. I also like the idea of having a high capacity pump standing by if needed.

PLEASE take lots of pics and a good video if all goes to crap! YouTube pays money for videos with lots of hits. It can help you recoup the cost of recovery!

 

[ksanders]

Why don't you just use the skid/rack. I don't think the harbor charges for that. Then you know it would work.

 

[markpierce]

Resting on mud doesn't seem as nerve-racking as being hoisted.

 

[FF]

Would I ground my boat on purpose?

Done it since the 60's and would happily do it again.

A good stern line will help on the re float .

Tension the line and as soon as the slightest lift is felt the boat will pop aft and your on your way to deeper water.

3/8 line and a Danforth 35H is perfect.

You can lay out 200 or 3ooft and modest tension will give 30-40 ft of boat movement.

Assuming 10%12% stretch .

 

[Codger2]

markpierce wrote:
Resting on mud doesn't seem as nerve-racking as being hoisted.

________________________________________________________________

God! There's that cradle again! :crying:

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[Art]

FF wrote:
Would I ground my boat on purpose?

Done it since the 60's and would happily do it again.

A good stern line will help on the re float .

Tension the line and as soon as the slightest lift is felt the boat will pop aft and your on your way to deeper water.

3/8 line and a Danforth 35H is perfect.

You can lay out 200 or 3ooft and modest tension will give 30-40 ft of boat movement.

Assuming 10%12% stretch .

*

Cracken Good Idea FF!

Especially for a low profile boat with appropriate weight distributions that reduces superstructure leverage-height at its beached angle and not too deep a keel that may roll the boat at an exaggerated angle once it fully rests on the bottom.* Those items are for Skipperdude to calc in this instance.

As long as the bay bottoms profile does descend*(and not at ascend before the lines stretch is relaxed)*so the water continually gets deeper (enough) as the 3/8 anchor lines stretch pulls boat backward into float-water then the Self Righting capabilities of the boats hull form in accordance with its superstructure leverage-height and equipment weight distributions should do its thing for a successful re-float.* Where we grounded lobster boats the shore angle was about 4 in 12 so it was easy to push*back off soon as buoyancy returned during tide rise.* Also the shore bottom was rather firm with basically a gravel/small stone texture so we experienced no suction of hull to shore. *And, the LBs had rather skinny keels with next to no superstructure leverage-height so they began to float way before the water got near the lower gunnel.*

Only caution I might still mention... what if the boat hull is lying over so far that its superstructure leverage and equipment weight distribution does not allow it to begin to float at all (so anchor line stretch-pull is not yet applicable) before water rises over the low gunnel?* Would a gas powered emergency fire pump (as someone mentioned previously)*enable ample discharge to get past this water incursion (if it occurs), to reach the point of initial hull buoyancy as tide rises so the line stretch can then help right the boat by rapidly pulling it to deeper water??* I only mention this because Skipperdudes pict makes it look like there is a lot of superstructure and considerable taller equipment extending way above the superstructure that could produce considerable leverage-height that may interfere with the hull gaining the flotation-displacement %age needed as tide rises.* Your boats pict seems to show a lower leverage-height profile and I wonder the difference between your and his keel depth / bottom design.

It will surely be an exciting event during all its portions.

*

I recommend*thinking all aspects through!*

My best wishes to your success on this adventure*Skipperdude! - Art **

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[skipperdude]

Doesn't look like it is going to happen this weekend.

*Forcast is for 6 to 8 ft seas winds to 30 knts. Friday and saturday. it is supposed to lay down on sunday but just not enough time.

SD

 

[Egregious]

I know this thread is about intentional grounding.* But I couldn't help posting this unintentional one...

 

[Sailor of Fortune]

I don't see what the big deal is. I would do it in a heart beat (and have done it). Pick your wx, know your beach and maintain WTI and your good to go!
The tires under the chine is a good suggestion. Bobcat (skidsteer) tires are ideal for this-short and wide. I rolled my newly constructed 30' hull onto tires with the help of 8 or 9 friends and a couple of cases of beer.

Intentional grounding, "drying out" is done routinely . Some municipallities in New England have "grids" for such activities (mostly lobster boats). It is the same evolution with or without the grid.

 

[Codger2]

Interesting topic!

Back in my "flying days" along with developing a good "scan" of the instruments, I was always cognizant of a place to set her down in case of an emergency. (I only had one & that was in a single 206.)

Would I run aground on purpose? You bet!

Like flying, when I'm in my boat & running, I always have a beach in mind to put her on should I seriously hole the boat or be taking on excessive water from some other cause.


-- Edited by SeaHorse II on Sunday 28th of August 2011 09:53:32 AM