I'm installing a new AC unit in my salon. The seawater flow connections are on the opposite side of the new unit. I am going to have to extend the copper pipe on the new unit rather then run 25 feet of new hose. I was going to sweat the mew copper fittings and extension line, but then I wondered if anyone would use a shark connector for a copper pipe on a boat. I've used them in houses with no worries. But I am reluctant to use them in a salt water environment and in the rough and tumble of a boat. What are your thoughts?
would you use shark fittings for copper line
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SteveK
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I have used shark bite on plastic with no concern. Until now did not know copper pipes were on a boat. But sure why not, you can always solder latter
kthoennes
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I know they have lots of supporters and professional plumbers say they're great, but they're just so loose (flexible) that they'd make me very nervous on a boat. We re-plumbed the water softener at home recently and used shark bite fittings on the copper lines. Zero leaks and they seem to be working fine, but they move around way too much for my taste. But then I've always been a pex skeptic too.
SteveK
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You feel that it is OK to lose your fresh water supply, but not raw water
Here is what I do.
I have alarms, remote to my phone for each time bilge pump activates. I have a step up bilge pump above main, so when that alarm comes I prepare to visit the boat, (well that is the theory since I have not had to respond to such alarm). I have high water alarm to tell me hey bud the boat may be sinking, there is a fooy of water in engine room. Whenever the boat will stay at dock fo considerable time I close the thru hulls.
I am not comfortable with recommendations based on a fear of what may happen.
Here is what I do.
I have alarms, remote to my phone for each time bilge pump activates. I have a step up bilge pump above main, so when that alarm comes I prepare to visit the boat, (well that is the theory since I have not had to respond to such alarm). I have high water alarm to tell me hey bud the boat may be sinking, there is a fooy of water in engine room. Whenever the boat will stay at dock fo considerable time I close the thru hulls.
I am not comfortable with recommendations based on a fear of what may happen.
PM
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I think they would be fine for domestic water where there is a limited amount of water available. A malfunction dumping 200 or 300 gallons of fresh water into your bilge is no big deal. But an unlimited amount of available water, say a lake full is a different story. I wouldn't do it.
pete
pete
jleonard
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I had shark bites on my copper domestic water lines in both heads on my Albin. Had them for probably 10 years or more and they never leaked.
I'm not sure I understand why you "have to" use copper pipe instead of the more typical hose. But I'd say you're right to be concerned. Typically air conditioner pumps are below the waterline. In my book that requires a bit of extra robustness. I have no idea how Sharkbite fittings hold up to the corrosive salt water and vibration on boats, but they don't seem anywhere near as rugged as other fittings used below the waterline. I have some in my potable water system, but that's a totally different risk profile.
Plus, sweating pipes is kinda fun. A lost art, if you will. If you can do it, why not?
Plus, sweating pipes is kinda fun. A lost art, if you will. If you can do it, why not?
I have no data regarding using sweated copper for seawater.
My first thought is that dissimilar metals will promote electrolysis
unless they are somehow protected with an anode or other method.
This could be troublesome due to the corrosion happening unseen inside the tubing.
My first thought is that dissimilar metals will promote electrolysis
unless they are somehow protected with an anode or other method.
This could be troublesome due to the corrosion happening unseen inside the tubing.
Last edited:
psneeld
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Not sure what other manufacturers say about theirs but here's a statement about copper coils in marine air conditioners..not sure if they mean the saltwater coils or not. Might have more info but didn't read on.....
https://citimarinestore.com/citiguide/best-marine-air-conditioning-ac-systems-for-boats/#SnippetTab
CTM’s marina AC units are built using quality materials meant to withstand the harsh marine environment – such as much more corrosion-resistant titanium coils as opposed to copper coils – and compatibility features – such as ability to use most major controls from Dometic, Cruisair and Marine Air units.
https://citimarinestore.com/citiguide/best-marine-air-conditioning-ac-systems-for-boats/#SnippetTab
CTM’s marina AC units are built using quality materials meant to withstand the harsh marine environment – such as much more corrosion-resistant titanium coils as opposed to copper coils – and compatibility features – such as ability to use most major controls from Dometic, Cruisair and Marine Air units.
No using shark fittings
I've decided to forgo extending the copper tubing from the AC and instead I will just add a 1 foot section of reinforced AC hose and link to old hose using a brass barb coupling. Too much movement to use shark fittings and not inclined to start using a torch on the AC copper pipe to solder.
I've decided to forgo extending the copper tubing from the AC and instead I will just add a 1 foot section of reinforced AC hose and link to old hose using a brass barb coupling. Too much movement to use shark fittings and not inclined to start using a torch on the AC copper pipe to solder.
PhilPB
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Turtle Blues
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Your own conclusion is the best. Easiest for disconnecting to perform coil flush and most reliable connection given the constant vibration.
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I wouldn't be concerned with using pex and a sharkbite fitting, BUT you need to clarify a few things.
Sharkbite is a brand that markets a lot of different type of fittings.
If you are speaking of the "push on" Sharkbite fittings, I personally would not use them on a boat. I've had two fail in the past, one on a boat, and one in a house.
If you are speaking of the Sharkbite brand of connectors that will transition from sweated (soldered) connector to a barb for Pex, and you use the Stainless steel crimp fitting, I'd say go for it.
Heck, even the copper rings would probably be just fine. That is what is on our 42 year old boat. Not sure when they were put on, but they're in perfect shape, no corrosion.
As to the comment up thread about raw water vs fresh water, the fresh water (limited to what is already on your boat in the fresh water tanks) won't sink your boat, the raw water, limited to the amount of water in the body of water your boat is floating in, will, so there's legitimate concern regarding not using potentially problematic fittings on raw water, especially below the water line.
JMHO, and you're certainly free to do what you wish on your own boat!
Sharkbite is a brand that markets a lot of different type of fittings.
If you are speaking of the "push on" Sharkbite fittings, I personally would not use them on a boat. I've had two fail in the past, one on a boat, and one in a house.
If you are speaking of the Sharkbite brand of connectors that will transition from sweated (soldered) connector to a barb for Pex, and you use the Stainless steel crimp fitting, I'd say go for it.
Heck, even the copper rings would probably be just fine. That is what is on our 42 year old boat. Not sure when they were put on, but they're in perfect shape, no corrosion.
As to the comment up thread about raw water vs fresh water, the fresh water (limited to what is already on your boat in the fresh water tanks) won't sink your boat, the raw water, limited to the amount of water in the body of water your boat is floating in, will, so there's legitimate concern regarding not using potentially problematic fittings on raw water, especially below the water line.
JMHO, and you're certainly free to do what you wish on your own boat!
twistedtree
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Madhatter53
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I redid my plumbing with pex and the push on sharkbite fittings. I also needed to keep some unreachable 3/8” copper lines so I also used a 3/8 to 1/2” sharkbite fittings.
catalinajack
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I would hazard a guess that failures are user errors. Sharkbite is very clear in their installation instructions. Failure to follow them can lead to failures, not of the product itself, but of the installation. For example, when used to connect copper pipes, the ends MUST be deburred. If they are not, or are not done well, when the fitting is pushed on, the connecting innards can be damaged such that a leak can occur later. Not saying you did not do a good install, just noting the facts.
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The ends should be deburred ANY time pipe/tubing, be it copper pipe, pvc, cpvc, pex etc. is cut. Also critical to ensure that cut is square, not at an angle.
The failure I had in the house was a faulty manufactured Sharkbite push on fitting. I took the failed, faulty fitting back to Lowes, along with the unused ones, and a copy of an article about the failures, and the manager looked at it, looked at the stock he had on the shelf, and they were almost all the faulty lot. He removed the faulty ones from the shelf, refunded my $$, and gave me the few good fittings he had, no charge. They're still somewhere in my shop. I just didn't have any confidence in the push on types any more. Luckily mine failed BEFORE the sheetrock went up, and resulted in little damage.
The 2nd failure, on the boat, failed after we had owned her for about a year. We discovered it when the high water bilge alarm went off one night, after our fresh water pump faithfully did it's job and pumped 350 gallons of fresh water into the bilge through the failed connector on the water heater. I removed the failed fitting, and then proceeded to find all the rest of them in the boat and replaced them as well, with solid connectors.
Fool me once, etc.
catalinajack
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Yes, you referenced an article. I recall that article now. Sharkbite had a bad batch. Your trepidation is understandable.The ends should be deburred ANY time pipe/tubing, be it copper pipe, pvc, cpvc, pex etc. is cut. Also critical to ensure that cut is square, not at an angle.
The failure I had in the house was a faulty manufactured Sharkbite push on fitting. I took the failed, faulty fitting back to Lowes, along with the unused ones, and a copy of an article about the failures, and the manager looked at it, looked at the stock he had on the shelf, and they were almost all the faulty lot. He removed the faulty ones from the shelf, refunded my $$, and gave me the few good fittings he had, no charge. They're still somewhere in my shop. I just didn't have any confidence in the push on types any more. Luckily mine failed BEFORE the sheetrock went up, and resulted in little damage.
The 2nd failure, on the boat, failed after we had owned her for about a year. We discovered it when the high water bilge alarm went off one night, after our fresh water pump faithfully did it's job and pumped 350 gallons of fresh water into the bilge through the failed connector on the water heater. I removed the failed fitting, and then proceeded to find all the rest of them in the boat and replaced them as well, with solid connectors.
Fool me once, etc.
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John, any manufacturer can have a bad batch. I'm just a little gun shy over them now. Especially after I've experienced two totally unrelated installation failures. I did not install the ones in our boat, and that failure may very well have been due to improper installation. Not sure, but I replaced them all with pex barb and SS crimps anyway. Sometimes I just trust the "old way" of doing things more. Bottom line, there are options out there. Everyone needs to do their own research, and make their own decisions.
psneeld
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People use wire nuts in their houses but would be shocked to horror if someone used them on their boat.
Next thing someone will ask if sharkbite fittings are good for aircraft....on a boat forum.
Next thing someone will ask if sharkbite fittings are good for aircraft....on a boat forum.
Darlin
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Sweating copper connections is cheap and reliable. Why bother with shark bites?
catalinajack
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Why? I imagine that sweating copper can be very difficult in some small spaces aboard a boat, perhaps even impossible. I have sweated a fair share of fittings in my lifetime. I much prefer CPVC, rather than copper, but I do not know the efficacy of CPVC on a boat.
