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One thing I do with the shaft anodes after cleaning the shaft and anodes is set the anode with a hammer. A couple of taps to make firm contact.
 
Having come from 100% freshwater to now being in 100% saltwater... for a few weeks. I will soon have our Tolly's bottom done for anode replacement. I'm still hesitant to do aluminum... one reason is the fellow doing it has great history in this area of taking care of in-saltwater boat bottoms, and, although he will put on whatever I ask... he does not recommend aluminum due to its short duration with lack of qualified results.

I'll probably tell him to do zinc. And, keep my ear close to the tracks regarding more I can learn about results with aluminum.
 
Having come from 100% freshwater to now being in 100% saltwater... for a few weeks. I will soon have our Tolly's bottom done for anode replacement. I'm still hesitant to do aluminum... one reason is the fellow doing it has great history in this area of taking care of in-saltwater boat bottoms, and, although he will put on whatever I ask... he does not recommend aluminum due to its short duration with lack of qualified results.

I'll probably tell him to do zinc. And, keep my ear close to the tracks regarding more I can learn about results with aluminum.

"short duration with lack of qualified results" nothing could be further from the truth, it's been used for years, results are proven, good enough for CG and navy, and it is ABYC compliant for fresh, salt and brackish water. Outboard manufacturers have used AL for years because it doesn't matter where the engine is used, it will work.

I frequently encounter this sort of ignorance (and I don't mean that in a disparaging way) regarding anodes and corrosion in the industry on a regular basis, corrosion is the least well understood phenomenon in this industry.

More here https://stevedmarineconsulting.com/galvanic-isolators-and-zinc-anode-selection/
 
"short duration with lack of qualified results" nothing could be further from the truth, it's been used for years, results are proven, good enough for CG and navy, and it is ABYC compliant for fresh, salt and brackish water. Outboard manufacturers have used AL for years because it doesn't matter where the engine is used, it will work.

I frequently encounter this sort of ignorance (and I don't mean that in a disparaging way) regarding anodes and corrosion in the industry on a regular basis, corrosion is the least well understood phenomenon in this industry.

More here https://stevedmarineconsulting.com/galvanic-isolators-and-zinc-anode-selection/

Thanks Steve. They won’t believe me, maybe they will believe you.
 
"short duration with lack of qualified results" nothing could be further from the truth, it's been used for years, results are proven, good enough for CG and navy, and it is ABYC compliant for fresh, salt and brackish water. Outboard manufacturers have used AL for years because it doesn't matter where the engine is used, it will work.

I frequently encounter this sort of ignorance (and I don't mean that in a disparaging way) regarding anodes and corrosion in the industry on a regular basis, corrosion is the least well understood phenomenon in this industry.

More here https://stevedmarineconsulting.com/galvanic-isolators-and-zinc-anode-selection/

Steve... you surely seem correct! i.e., "... corrosion is the least well understood phenomenon in this industry."

Also, upon again reading my post you quoted... I realize: I miss quoted the bottom fellow who will do my boat's anodes tomorrow. He did not say short duration, regarding aluminum diodes. Don't know why I entered those two words in my statement. Sorry about that!! :D

He did say "lack of qualified results". Plan to post what his report shows. Boat's been in saltwater for nearly 4 weeks... after freshwater for 14 yrs. With full-on bottom job completed last September.
 
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Steve... you surely seem correct! i.e., "... corrosion is the least well understood phenomenon in this industry."

Also, upon again reading my post you quoted... I realize: I miss quoted the bottom fellow who will do my boat's anodes tomorrow. He did not say short duration, regarding aluminum diodes. Don't know why I entered those two words in my statement. Sorry about that!! :D

He did say "lack of qualified results". Plan to post what his report shows. Boat's been in saltwater for nearly 4 weeks... after freshwater for 14 yrs. With full-on bottom job completed last September.

Understood, but I'd say the same thing to, "lack of qualified results". That's simply not accurate. Perhaps he's not aware of them, but they do exist.

Taiwan bound.
 
Understood, but I'd say the same thing to, "lack of qualified results". That's simply not accurate. Perhaps he's not aware of them, but they do exist.

Taiwan bound.

Report I just got. Haven't seen the invoice yet. I'm happy!!

"All done. Boat looks great. New zincs all around."

You mention that "qualified results" regarding aluminum anodes "do exist" Perhaps I missed link to read the results. Could you again provide a link.

Thanks,

Art
 
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Understood, but I'd say the same thing to, "lack of qualified results". That's simply not accurate. Perhaps he's not aware of them, but they do exist.

Taiwan bound.

Too many people get used to doing something a certain way and they close their eyes to anything new.
 
Report I just got. Haven't seen the invoice yet. I'm happy!!

"All done. Boat looks great. New zincs all around."

You mention that "qualified results" regarding aluminum anodes "do exist" Perhaps I missed link to read the results. Could you again provide a link.

Thanks,

Art


They are good enough for the American Boat and Yacht Council, see attached. Note they are approved for all applications.
 

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Too many people get used to doing something a certain way and they close their eyes to anything new.

Dave, this summaraizes the zinc vs. Al debate nicely. I have no doubt that Al is the way to go for most of us, but I find that the majority of older boaters and mechanics that have been using Zn for decades will either not be aware of Al or even consider learning about it let alone trying it.
 
They are good enough for the American Boat and Yacht Council, see attached. Note they are approved for all applications.

Hi Steve - thanks for sending that report! I'm a tough nut to crack... but... I am crackable!! LOL Next time I replace anodes it will be aluminum I'll use.

BTW - on average, under duplicate circumstances... how much longer do you feel aluminum might last compared to zinc? Your best guess is more than good enough. One item about aluminum anode I appreciate is its composition's kindness to nature; compared to zinc.

Following is report from local wet-boat-bottom maintenance diver. Our Tolly is good-to-go for a period of time... starting yesterday!

"Hull cleaned all zincs replaced. Hull paint in excellent condition. All metal surfaces in good shape. Hull min. 200.00 4 11/4 shaft zincs at 23.49 per. 4 #3 trim and rudder zincs at 27.34 per. 1 D/D hull zinc at 86.79. 9 installs at 20.00 per. All set!"

:dance: :speed boat:
 
Dave, this summaraizes the zinc vs. Al debate nicely. I have no doubt that Al is the way to go for most of us, but I find that the majority of older boaters and mechanics that have been using Zn for decades will either not be aware of Al or even consider learning about it let alone trying it.

My post 41 - Proves!! Old-Boaters can learn new tricks!! :angel: :rofl: :D
 
Great Lakes boat in the water about five months per year. I switched some of the anodes to magnesium about three years ago. The rate of consumption was almost alarming. I'm switching all (engines, rudders, trim tabs, shafts to aluminum in September. Roughly $300 for a twin.
 
My post 41 - Proves!! Old-Boaters can learn new tricks!! :angel: :rofl: :D

And it only took 40 posts to get you there! Progress!

BTW, per your other question, I would not switch to Al because they last longer. In fact, I might be concerned if they were lasting too long. Anodes are made to corrode and dissolve. If the don't, they are not working. My season is approx 6 mos and I get hauled each year, so I would likely change everything annually regardless. After 6 mos. my zincs are pretty well shot. Next year I will likely try all Al. But as I say this, I'm just thinking, If I am going to replace every year, and the Zn is dissolving at a good rate, other than the enviromental impact, is there really an advantage to me changing?
 
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Dave, this summaraizes the zinc vs. Al debate nicely. I have no doubt that Al is the way to go for most of us, but I find that the majority of older boaters and mechanics that have been using Zn for decades will either not be aware of Al or even consider learning about it let alone trying it.

Yes, it is easy to get locked into a certain thing and not want to look for new ways to do it. “It is the way I have always done it” attitude. That may be fine but there may be better ways that have come up. Have to step back and open your attitude and eyes to new possibilities.
 
Yes, it is easy to get locked into a certain thing and not want to look for new ways to do it. “It is the way I have always done it” attitude. That may be fine but there may be better ways that have come up. Have to step back and open your attitude and eyes to new possibilities.

Thanks Dave I agree. Any thoughts on this post of mine?

Next year I will likely try all Al. But as I say this, I'm just thinking, If I am going to replace every year, (6 mos season) and the Zn is dissolving at a good rate, other than the enviromental impact, is there really an advantage to me changing?
 
Thanks Dave I agree. Any thoughts on this post of mine?

Next year I will likely try all Al. But as I say this, I'm just thinking, If I am going to replace every year, (6 mos season) and the Zn is dissolving at a good rate, other than the enviromental impact, is there really an advantage to me changing?

All things being equal the environmental impact would tip me towards aluminum. But everyone is different and have different desires. You have to do what you think is best for your situation.
 
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