diesel heater choice

[dutch-barge]

we opted for a Kabola...Heating and hotwater combo

they have a nice air unit, really small, using the hot water to generate the hot air.

No need to buy a spare unit, because kabola is build to last

 

[paulga]

we opted for a Kabola...Heating and hotwater combo

they have a nice air unit, really small, using the hot water to generate the hot air.

No need to buy a spare unit, because kabola is build to last

it's a pretty big machine. suitable for bigger boats

 

[paulga]

You can be sure the internals are identical. The 4 vs 1 hot air vents is simply a different end piece molding. Focus on the peripherals. Focus on the controller. Does it have the features you want. Try to find out if it uses the universal motherboard. If it does replacing the controller is easy.

I see these have the soft green fuel line. Likely to cause problems. Plan on replacing with the nylon kind.

You're probably going to need longer exhaust tubing.

Understand it is not likely to produce 8 KW heat output. These are Espar D4 knockoffs. A D4 produces 4 KW heat.

I just bought an Hcalory 8 KW heater. No complaints so far but it's output is nowhere near the output of the 8 KW Espar in the boat.

Years ago I lived abroad in Seattle. During the relative to your location cold snaps the D4 knockoff I installed could heat one cabin at a time.

I bought a Hcalory 5kw heater. Did you mean it's a copy of Espar, not Webasto?

 

[Moonfish]

When living aboard in the winter, we leave our Wallas Spartan on 24/7. My understanding is turning diesel heater units on and off causes more soot to buildup in the burner assembly, thereby decreasing their efficiency. Of course, our unit is in the engine room so it's not very likely we would see any CO in our cabins if there was a leak.

Regarding the one or four outlet models, you can always put a "Y" in the single outlet ducting to branch off into other spaces.

 

[Portage_Bay]

I bought a Hcalory 5kw heater. Did you mean it's a copy of Espar, not Webasto?

I don't see a lot of difference between Espar and Webasto 4 KW units. I do see a lot of the Chinese knock offs claiming 5 KW even 8KW when the internals are so similar to the original 4 KWs to expect greater output will lead to disappointment. I have an Hclaory. It's a good unit as long as I don't expect greater output.

 

[paulga]

I don't see a lot of difference between Espar and Webasto 4 KW units. I do see a lot of the Chinese knock offs claiming 5 KW even 8KW when the internals are so similar to the original 4 KWs to expect greater output will lead to disappointment. I have an Hclaory. It's a good unit as long as I don't expect greater output.

This is the fuel system picture from the espar d4 manual
If this hcalory is a copy from d4, it likely uses the same fuel lines. Are these what you have used:

Suction side: 5mm rubber hose (9)
Pressure side: 3.5 mm rubber joining pieces (7) and 1.5 mm hard nylon line (8)

All these numbers are ID. 3.5mm should be the size of the fuel output on the pump and the intake nozzle on the heater. It seems that espar nylon line on the pressure end is 1.5 x4mm and webasto line is 2x5mm. I don't know if a 2x5mm line works here.

 

[Portage_Bay]

I'm not sure what problem you are trying to solve or question to have answered. If I am correct in thinking you are trying to setup the fuel lines on your Hcalory you will find numerous suppliers of the needed parts on Amazon and Ebay. Most list they fit both Espar and Webasto. The come with the nylon tubing, hose and clamps for connection. The are inexpensive and worth a try. If you want confirmation of what to use Hcalory has a support line. Contact Us - Hcalory Give them a try, they may help.

As for what I used I have not yet made any modifications to my Hcalory. I purchased one of the all-in-one heaters to test out heating my shop. It has the soft green fuel line that will fail. When it does I'll order one of the kits.

I will make the comment that while it is listed as an 8KW unit it does not produce anywhere near the heat the old Espar 8KW in the boat does. If / when the old Espar goes to the great beyond if I go the Chinese heater route it will require two to try to keep up with heat the Espar produces.

 

[paulga]

I'm not sure what problem you are trying to solve or question to have answered. If I am correct in thinking you are trying to setup the fuel lines on your Hcalory you will find numerous suppliers of the needed parts on Amazon and Ebay. Most list they fit both Espar and Webasto. The come with the nylon tubing, hose and clamps for connection. The are inexpensive and worth a try. If you want confirmation of what to use Hcalory has a support line. Contact Us - Hcalory Give them a try, they may help.

As for what I used I have not yet made any modifications to my Hcalory. I purchased one of the all-in-one heaters to test out heating my shop. It has the soft green fuel line that will fail. When it does I'll order one of the kits.

I will make the comment that while it is listed as an 8KW unit it does not produce anywhere near the heat the old Espar 8KW in the boat does. If / when the old Espar goes to the great beyond if I go the Chinese heater route it will require two to try to keep up with heat the Espar produces.

got it. what I bought is a standalone model. I have sent an email to Hcalory.

 

[paulga]

Marco,


I too saw the cast iron radiator video. Great idea, not gonna fit on a boat. I wonder if the condensation problem can be sloved by having the entire exhaust run slope down?

A quick search on 4" insulation ducting turns up a number of choices. For a new install insulated flex duct. Could be just the ticket.

@Portage_Bay can this flex duct work as insulation for the hot air hose?
the webasto thermoduct insulation has similar caliber/design, but costs ~6 times as much.

 

[Portage_Bay]

@Portage_Bay can this flex duct work as insulation for the hot air hose?
the webasto thermoduct insulation has similar caliber/design, but costs ~6 times as much.

Probably. The only way to know for sure is to buy it and try it.

 

[Marco Flamingo]

The insulated flex duct looks like it would be a lot easier to install than the stuff I used (assuming the stock heater ducting would fit inside it. I would also check the heat rating of the reflective mylar. The stuff I used can even handle the heat of the exhaust outlet.

When I was doing the HVAC on my house, various websites were not advocates of insulated flex ducting. Seems that the interior ridges and partial collapse on curves could cut way down on the flow volume. Better to use rigid duct and insulate on the outside. Not sure how much it matters on short runs, but keep in mind that the motor fan in diesel "parking" heaters is sized for relatively tiny distances.