Ditch bag recommendations?

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OA486AGC

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Vessel Name
the Dude
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Ocean Alexander 486 Classicco Pilothouse
Looking for recommendations for something I never hope I have to use - but if I do, I want the best one out there: ditch bags? What do you have or what do you recommend?

Hope everyone is enjoying summer boating!
 
You will ger a boatload of suggestions.... literally.

Might want to narrow it down a bit by the type and area of cruising you do and size/experience of crew.
 
You will ger a boatload of suggestions.... literally.

Might want to narrow it down a bit by the type and area of cruising you do and size/experience of crew.

Based out of Seattle (Portage Bay) - year round boating- live aboard - experienced crew (wife and I). For the most part just the wife and I aboard, but occasionally another couple or friends maxing out at 6 total.

Up to Desolation and back in terms of range and area. Mainly in the SJ Islands...

I know everyone has an opinion and I am just curious what others might share brand and what they have put in their ditch bag. Hopefully the topic doesn't irritate folks :rofl: ...
 
Guess I will start with the basics...

No matter where you are, you need ID and money. There are various forms of both that can stay in the ditch bag because you hardly ever need them such as passport and credit/debit cards not often used..... and I would keep some cash.

Night falls every day, so a couple small but bright flashlights with some xtra batteries are always welcome.

Any super critical medicine for say.... a week. Plus a list of REALLY important med info and your provider phone numbers.

Spare phone charger and maybe a power pack. Maybe just a whole cheapo cel phone with important numbers already in it. A list of important contact phone numbers.

Any super important keys or a copy of.

Digital copies/backups of electronics

The above you need even if being saved by the biggest cruise ship in the world (at least the stuff I would consider really good to have). The following become so debatable by some I hate to even suggest more than a few.

Not necessarily ditch bag equipment, but getting found fast is important so PLB and waterproof handheld need to come with you weather in, attached or part of the total abandon ship equipment.

A bottled water or 3.... some small hard candies/protien bars.

Let the games begin..... :D
 
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What you use as a bag is mostly irrelevant in my view. It’s what you put in it that’s important.
That’s depends upon where you are cruising, in what season and with who.
Basics for everyone are
Enough food and water until rescue. This depends upon where you are. For open ocean away from shipping lanes beyond actual water many carry a hand operated RO unit. The wilderness packets or MREs work well.
Enough electronics to ask for help. Usually means an Epirb and several personal location devices.
Enough comm to talk to the outside world. Usually means several VHFs and some form of handheld sat comm.
Enough protection from the environment. Space blankets and the like. To some extent depends upon your raft. A good canopy, double floor, large size etc.
Basic med supplies for burns, fractures, infection. Depending upon past med history of crew add in one week supply of their meds.
List isn’t inclusive but just a start.

So how big a bag and nature of compartments can only be determined after you decide what you’re going to put into it.
 
I see it as 2 different scenarios.

One is rescue before it becomes survival...thus a ditch bag for all occasions.

The other is abandon ship to a survival platform (whether life jacket, immersion suit, or survival craft (dingy, life raft, other). There the survival platform may be the holder of more "survival gear" than just a handy ditch bag that gets grabbed no matter for what reason you leave the vessel. I used to keep the necessaries in mine (I forgot digital copies/backups of electronics in my necessary list, if not on the cloud) and grab my ditch bag if leaving the boat for even just a night (in case it wasn't where I left it when returning :D).
 
An old cell phone will always make 911 calls and doubles as a photo bank of documents, including boat document, IDs, health and boat insurance, credit cards, prescriptions, emergency contacts and the like.
 
An old cell phone will always make 911 calls and doubles as a photo bank of documents, including boat document, IDs, health and boat insurance, credit cards, prescriptions, emergency contacts and the like.

:thumb:
 
The ditch bag is supposed to float but by the time you load it up, I suspect it wont float so tie a separate PFD to the bag.
 
As said above. Think about your cruising area and cruising style. Given your cruising area, Seattle to Desolation Sound. And assuming you won't be venturing north of the San Juans and Gulf Islands in winter. Some thoughts on the suggestions above.

Comms are very important. Anywhere between Seattle and Desolation Sound you can count on rescue within 24 hrs, usually just hours, as long as you can communicate. USCG and CCG have numerous resources in the area and response times are very quick.

VHF. A handheld goes in my ditch bag. Excellent comms to USCG, CCG and nearby boats to initiate rescue and communicate with any rescuer on the way. But limited by the line of sight limits of VHF.

Cell phones. Coverage gets better each year. But there are still some areas where you can't find service especially if you want to travel up the inlets where you'll be in rock canyons. While the idea of packing an old cell phone for 911 calls has some merit look into how Canadian carriers handle 911 calls. I honestly don't know. And for your main cell phone, does your provider and plan give you access to Canadian carriers?

Satellite comms. I use an inReach. Compared to a sat phone or Starlink it's clumbsy. But it works, is reliable, has a long battery life and has a built in SOS feature. If all you will use it for is emergencies then you only need a minimal plan. To make best use of an inReach or similar device have someone ashore you can trust to help.

EPIRB. While that doesn't belong in the ditch bag it is a key bit of your kit. A PLB in the ditch bag isn't a bad idea.

Sometimes people say "I have it handy and will grab it on the way out". Whatever "It" is. OK, maybe, as long as you remember to grab it, it isn't blocked by fire or haven't misplaced it. Better to spend a few $$ to have gear dedicated to the ditch bag that stays in the ditch bag and is routinely inspected and tested.

Clothing. You may have to spend a cold wet night in your dinghy, life raft or on the beach in a remote area.

PFDs. We keep PFDs in the ditch bag. Not the nice horse shoe self inflatables we use all the time. Some of the water ski foam vests. Not the best, not what we want to wear. But they come under the heading of "I'll grab it on the way out" but can't find it or reach it in time.

Small first aid kit.

Think about where the ditch bag goes. PO of this boat had it in the storage locker in the forward cabin. At the bottom of the locker. Under all kinds of stuff.

We keep it in the lazarette. Open the hatch, lift the bag out, launch the dinghy which is mounted on the swim step. All right together.
 
An old cell phone will always make 911 calls and doubles as a photo bank of documents, including boat document, IDs, health and boat insurance, credit cards, prescriptions, emergency contacts and the like.

Old cell phones usually won't hold a charge and only useful within cell phone range. Rescue beacons are inexpensive.
 
Old cell phones usually won't hold a charge and only useful within cell phone range. Rescue beacons are inexpensive.

Good points. A charger had already been mentioned, as had a beacon.

An old cell phone, once charged, can be useful for all kinds of stuff in addition to pic storage and emergency calls. For example; back up compass, star chart, flashlight, gps location, etc. We boat in south Florida so my rescuers might offload me in the Bahamas where access to banking, insurance, medical and other information might be handy. I might even be able to get a SIM card for that old phone and use it to actually communicate.
 
As for the container, I chose a hard plastic box similar to a Pelican case from Harbor Freight. It holds what I need it to for warm water cruising and is water tight. While cruising the life raft and the ditch box live under the dinette table, always right in the way but handy. There is a smaller container of essentials in the dingy on the swim platform.

Depending on how quickly we need to abandon ship, we have a prioritized list of things to take.
 
Good points. A charger had already been mentioned, as had a beacon.

An old cell phone, once charged, can be useful for all kinds of stuff in addition to pic storage and emergency calls. For example; back up compass, star chart, flashlight, gps location, etc. We boat in south Florida so my rescuers might offload me in the Bahamas where access to banking, insurance, medical and other information might be handy. I might even be able to get a SIM card for that old phone and use it to actually communicate.

Right on.... so many think every abandon ship becomes a survival (in the water) or rescue where you get deposited at home.

My experience with that is just the opposite... the vast majority of rescues happen quickly and many you don't even get wet. But you don't wind up at home. So the items I recommended above, you need in almost every rescue.

Many survival items would overwhelm a conventional ditch bag and are best split up among the various other abandon ship items each being associated with the situation you find yourself in when abandoning ship.

The USCG during abandon ship had every crewmember report to a particular station with items they could grab along the way appropriate for the situation. Pretty much the same concept I believe even for smaller vessels. Abandoning ship in the ICW versus open ocean and depending on the latitudes you are in may dictate your actions more than a particular set of gear.
 
2 or 3 ditch bags for the connivence of moving them around the boat and to dingy or water.
 
My current coastal ditchbag is quite different than the one we set up for voyaging. Yes in a coastal environment you can almost expect rescue within a day two at the most but if you’re voyaging that isn’t necessarily the case. Particularly if you’re outside shipping lanes. Given the pilot does take you away from shipping and cruise boats the requirements are different and should be reflected in how you stock the bag.
One should note many of the higher quality life rafts include a fair amount of really worthwhile kit alleviating the need to store those thing in the bag. Even if you never take the Safety at Sea course (highly recommended) when you have your raft repacked ask for them to inflate it and climb in. There’s a surprisingly lack of room in them. Putting in a host of bags might greatly add to discomfort so your choices should be limited to what’s needed not what would be good to have. As stated above that’s predicated on the nature of cruising you actually do.
Even when voyaging we carried one ditchbag. It was left next to the companion way. Everyone knew if they saw it to carry it with them even without the prior instruction the first man out was to take it. There was a second bag of second order stuff which we expected to go if time and conditions allowed. Did blow the money for commercially manufactured ditchbags. Also had a waterproof duffel/knapsack with rollup top. Had key papers, passports, money etc. in that. Thinking is first save lives and kept them alive, second ask for help, third facilitate rescue,
 
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I see it as 2 different scenarios.



One is rescue before it becomes survival...thus a ditch bag for all occasions.



The other is abandon ship to a survival platform (whether life jacket, immersion suit, or survival craft (dingy, life raft, other).
I had never really thought it through, but this makes sense. Reminds me of guidance for checked luggage on airlines - keep anything you need in short order with you, not in checked baggage. People who cruise internationally have a good start for their file of documents required for port clearance.

If survival gear makes sense for your cruising, this ACR ditch bag seems to be well thought out and isn't ridiculously expensive. Having a formal ditch bag vs a standard dry-bag seems like a decent idea to keep it from getting lost in the laz.

ACR 2279 RapidDitch Express Bag https://a.co/d/6l1qGYg

Peter
 
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Having been on the receiving end of thousands of SAR cases..... one starts to see patterns. You don't have to actually be a survivor, just being involved with the rescue or debriefing it gives a lot of experience.

When asked to teach Safety at Sea courses, the behind the scenes discussions revealed that many experts one the panels had no or little real experience, just think tank ideas based on studying many rescues like I had.

At least I got to see many survivor rescues first hand and may be one of the reasons I avoided at sea issues because of all that info burned into my memory.

The toughest decisions on go bags, ditch bags, abandon ship gear, survival gear is that you can't take it all. In fact most survival courses teach you often only have what was on your person when that time arrives. However there are the oldie but goodie basics that should be ready to go. Most posts so far give a good idea what much of it should be.

So for me it's easy to see a "go bag" that is basically for after the rescue, or at least the tail end of it with all the things you need to survive in civilization..... and a "ditch bag" that contains some basics to keep you alive and able to send for help when no one even knows you are in trouble (yet).

As I posted, every crewmember should have assignments and if there are 2 crew, then each one grabs a bag if possible. If not have a plan B.
 
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For many ocean races a recent safety at sea is required. Over the years they have evolved to kept up with technology and I’ve haven’t raced in recent years. Just like there’s a difference between a Yachtmaster where you are judged while you actually do the tasks and a self attested captains license. There’s benefits to doing the Satey at Sea course. Just to get you thinking about getting into a raft and whether you can help others do the same. Expect if they were injured or unfit. Whether Gumby or immersive suits made sense. What electronics made sense. I would ave a discussion with crew before leaving about fire, water ingress and abandon ship. This would be followed by assignment and PRACTICE.
Appreciate PSs input but there’s two sides. The rescuer and the rescuee. Both can teach theory but as he says both have their own insights as to practicalities.
 
I don't remember his name, but I recall the story of a guy spending a few days adrift in a raft and how bad he wished for a toothbrush. He went on to sell and service life rafts in Annapolis, I don't recall his name but will never forget how he stressed the value of remembering a toothbrush.
 
I don't remember his name, but I recall the story of a guy spending a few days adrift in a raft and how bad he wished for a toothbrush. He went on to sell and service life rafts in Annapolis, I don't recall his name but will never forget how he stressed the value of remembering a toothbrush.

On my closest call to a real survival situation (stranded for hours on the ice near the North Pole, broken helo)..... I would have killed for a deck of cards...started carrying a deck in helmet bag after that.

The 7th step of survival is play.... cards can help.

Hmmm .....toothbrush or deck of cards..... yep, deck of cards for me. :D

The real trick about survival is there are people who study it and practice it for a living and very, very few people that have enough actual survival experience to be an "expert" in anything but the one or several situations they encountered.
 
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In my younger years I flew SAR for quite a number of years in the Caribbean and can perhaps share some tips, if you allow me, with regard to safety / rescue or distress situations.

Of course there are the things you always need such as passports, ID, drivers license, bank cards etc that you will want to have with you, they don't take up too much space. But as a back up, just make PDF files of them and keep them in the cloud where you can always access them. Same goes for bank account numbers, addresses, important phonenumbers etc.
If you need medicine then make sure you have that medicine as well, but the rest of the grab bag, at least for me, depends fully on where we are sailing and when we are sailing.

As an example, if we are out on the water at night the chances of getting rescued during the night are slim (unless we are very close to shore), so you need to be prepared for an overnite in a liferaft or dinghy. Night usually means fresh or cold, so make sure you have something warm with you. When you jump into the water clothes will get wet, so get those clothes off as soon as you can and get into dry clothes. How ? Vacuum some warm clothes into those long storage bags. They are water tight, don't take up too much space and you will have dry clothes.
Are you close to shore or are you far out into the sea, e.g. a passage to the Bahama's or to Alaska ? If you are close to shore and there are enough boats around you the chance of immediate rescue is much much higher than if you are 100 nm off shore. Your preparation for an off shore emergency is different than for a busy coastal emergency. You will need more equipment and supplies if we are talking off shore rescue.
Also, what are the weather conditions ?
If there is a storm with massive waves and hauling wind it is going to be much different than on a calm day when your boat has caught fire. In a storm you may not be able to get everything you want to have, so you have to make choices.

Some items you ALWAYS must have are

1. VHF radio with enough batteries to last for a long time.
2. EPIRB if possible
3. Drinking water, as much as you can bring along
4. Clothing against the cold. You can take off clothes against the heat, but if you don't have clothes against the cold....it can kill you. Cold can kill.
5. A stick with a radar reflector. May sound strange, but if you can create a radar reflection you will increase the chances of being rescued.
6. An extensive first aid kid. The liferaft should have one, but that is very basic and chances are you have injuries when you have to abandon ship in a hurry.

Everything else is preference of each person. Just make sure you have it ready for pick up and near the engine room is usually not the best place. In case of a fire you won't be able to get there. So ours is hanging next to the stairs to the fly bridge, which is also next to the stairs of the stateroom.
If you have guests onboard, give them their own grab bag, don't mix it up with yours. It is easier to grab two small bags than to move around with one large bag.

Since we all have motor vessels you may want to think about always towing your dinghy behind you instead of keeping it up on the dinghy deck or in the davits. Only when you have a fire it may be difficult to reach it, but if you would be making water after you hit a container you can still get there. Even with a fire you could jump into the water and get to the dinghy if weather and sea state permit.

Yes, you have a life raft, but if you can just step in your dinghy and motor to shore you have just saved yourself. For that matter always make sure the fuel tank of the dinghy is full and have some in reserve.
Even if you have to go into the liferaft because you are too far off shore, so no opportunity to motor to shore, keep that dinghy with you at all times. Just the engine alone is a great reflector for a radar. In calm seas even a weather radar can pick up the return of that engine. And the dinghy can be used as storage space for water, food etc.

When it comes to WHEN we sail it will be obvious that being out on the water in winter time requires different gear than in summer time. If you are sailing out in Alaska you may want to invest in an immersion suit. They are expensive, but at those temperatures they are absolutely necessary to be able to survive. When you have one onboard, just take the effort of trying to get into one in a short period of time, it can be life saving. Sometimes you may only have a few minutes and that is not the time to start reading the instructions.

As for the liferaft, make sure you have it checked and tested on time. The liferaft should inflate itself when the lanyard is pulled or when the water trigger tells it to inflate, but if that bottle is empty you will be blowing your lungs out to get the liferaft inflated.........it is not going to work.
Also, get a hydrostatic release. We did not have one, now we do and at least I know the dinghy will be released from its cradle if the boat would sink and we have not released the liferaft.

Having a liferaft is one, but getting into it is a different matter, so take some time thinking about how you are going to accomplish it. I have done many dinghy drills in my time and the older I got the more difficult it became to get into that liferaft. If you are with more people onboard let the most capable person get in first. He or she can then pull in the others. It is a simple method that basically anyone can do (unless someone weighs 300 lbs). Put your lower arms under the arm pit and let yourself fall backwards. That will give enough momentum to pull the person in the liferaft.

Once in the liferaft you want to get organized, get the water out and get yourself dry. After that is a different story, will save you the book on that one.

Lastly some lessons we have learned over the many years of flying SAR in my unit.

1. We never found anyone that we did not know was missing in the first place.

So, if you don't get a Mayday call out or have not left an itinerary anywhere, stating when you will leave from where, going to where and when you think you will arrive of don't have an EPIRB, the rescue organizations won't know you are in trouble so they will not come to rescue you.
In other words, get that mayday call out to anyone or get that EPIRB in the water and tie yourself to that thing. EPIRB signals are always received and that is the first place we will go and look. If you are tied to the EPIRB........we will find you and rescue you. :)
If you don't get a reply on a Mayday call, just keep transmitting in the blind as long as you can. Perhaps someone picks it up, but you cannot hear them. Keep transmitting on high power on your radio as long as you can. Stop transmitting when you have to abandon ship and once in the liferaft don't use the radio unless you can see ships or have the idea you see a SAR aircraft or helicopter.

2. We never found a person, without life jacket, in the water.

In other words, if you end up in the water without a life jacket, your chances of rescue by rescue organizations are very very slim. Make sure you wear a life jacket, an orange one preferably. Orange is what we are looking for, it does not belong in the sea, you can see it from miles away.

3. We never lost anyone who had communications.

Those were the easiest reascues we had. As long as they had a radio we could find them. Rescue planes usually have DF (Direction Finding) and that means we can home in on the signal, it is very easy to pinpoint the position. Once we found you we can drop all kinds of equipment near your position, first one will be a radio buoy so you can stop transmitting on your radio.
Again, don't use the radio unless told to do so. A radio uses less battery power when listening out than when transmitting. Any SAR aircraft that knows you have a radio will constantly be making calls on ch 16 to get your attention. Only when you hear that you should answer.
I know a phone sounds logic nowadays, but unless you are in cell phone range to the shore that cell phone is not going to be of any use. Yes, it may have GPS, which is good, but that is about it. You can use it to pass your position via VHF, but again, there is no need to use those batteries unless you are in range of the shore, you see someone or have VHF contact with anyyone. So, don't use the batteries of the handheld VHF (by constantly calling mayday every 5 minutes) unless you are called.
If you have a spare battery for the radio take it along, if you don't have it you may want to think about buying a spare battery and keep it charged. If your dinghy has a 12 V battery bring a battery charger along, you now have definitely saved your life !
Make sure the radio and the batteries are in a water tight bag, your life may depend on that radio.

4. In all my years of SAR I have never seen flares of smokes being used, nor did we ask for them.
We mostly did rescues well off the shore, many times a couple of hundred miles away from the shore. If there is a lot of wind (as there always is in the Caribbean) the smoke won't be visible at all. It gets blown away instantly. Smoke is only good when there is hardly any wind, but not a lot of boats end up in trouble when the wind is calm :)
If you have flares or smoke, only trigger them when the boat or plane is coming in your direction. They are not looking behind them or even to the left or right of them and a plane at 30.000' is definitely not going to see your smoke or flare.

5. Take whatever you think is required in your grab bag, but don't forget enough drinking water.

You can do without food for a long time, but you can only go a couple of days without drinking. If you can afford it get a handheld water maker. It is a hand held osmosis pump with which you can make drinking water. Water will keep you alive, food will make you thirsty.
If you don't have that pump or don't want to buy it, just take a 25 ltr jerrycan and fill it with drinking water for about 3/4. If you keep air in it it will float, so you can throw it overboard if necessary, or keep it in your dinghy at all times. Just remember to refresh it every several days.

6. Make sure you know how to operate your liferaft.

I remember one case back in the beginning of the 90's where we were searching for 5 days for a liferaft. That was based on information of 1 survivor who had gone to shore in a small rowing boat. The current being east to west he had rowed for 4 miles north to south, but he made it. So we were looking for an orange liferaft.
Only problem was that the wind had blown the liferaft upside down upon opening and none of the crew had any idea how to right it again. So they were sitting on top of the underside of the liferaft, which is .............black. We never found them, 5 people died, all of 1 family of fishermen.
So make sure you know how to operate that liferaft, best is of course training, but otherwise look it up on youtube.

7. No sharp objects in anyone's pockets.

It may sound strange, but it has happened. People made it safely off the boat, made it into the liferaft, but had sharp objects, cut the liferaft and that was the end of it.
There should be a linecutter in the liferaft to cut you loose from the boat, but all other knives should be either thrown away or kept closed at all times.

8. Don't cut the liferaft loose from the boat until absolutely necessary.

The boat is usually easy to find. With radar we can find the boat, even if it is upside down. That will give us a good start for a search area. If you can stay close to that location your chances of rescue increase dramatically

9. Make sure you have sea sickness pills and take them immediately

A liferaft is a small, closed environment. If someone gets sick in a liferaft, most likely everyone will get seasick, so try to prevent it.

There are many more things to think about, but these are the most important ones. It may be a bit over the top what I wrote, but sometimes an emergency is just seconds away. Not too long ago I wrote about our fire onboard and if we would have caught it later than we did now we would have had to abandon ship. We thought we were fully prepared, but found out we had forgotten a few items, so that is corrected and we now know exactly what is where and what to do.

If anyone disagrees or has changes or additions, feel free.
 
One thing I forgot.

If you are sailing in a Spanish speaking area.............prepare to do your Mayday or PanPanPan call in Spanish.
May sound strange, but my experience is that Spanish speaking countries don't have duty officers who speak good English so you can make your Mayday call, pass your coordinates and for the next 30 minutes you will be repeating yourself.

Have the Mayday call written out in Spanish and learn how to pronounce the numbers (0 to 9) in Spanish.
As long as you can get the position out the rest is extra with them. Unlike e.g. the USCG it is not going to make them run any faster if you are sinking, on fire or making water.:):banghead:
 
^+1. One of the best posts in this thread. Virtually all ocean rated life rafts have a canopy which protects you from UV, sun burn, exposure etc. downside is it can get hot inside. Have found long sleeve shirts and pants are often more comfortable. Especially when loose fitting synthetics that wick. So if you’re vacuum bagging clothes use those for the tropics and synthetic fleeces for up north. No killer cotton which doesn’t work when wet.
Coastal rated rafts may not have a canopy tshirts and shorts may not be a good idea. TP may not survive very long in a raft. Baby wipes maybe be better and also a wipe down may prevent passage pimples.

If buying a raft think you should make sure the smallest person on board can deploy the raft. We blew the extra bucks on a Winslow so my 4’10” 100lbs wife could deploy it or I could even if one arm was injured. When you choose a raft see it first and climb inside it. Check out what ancillaries it come with. I bought another couple with me and the bride. With four in it there’s very little room. Makes you reevaluate what you can take along.

Our plan has been to deploy the raft and only enter it directly from the boat only when it’s clear we cannot save the boat. You’re much safer on a boat than in a raft than in the water.

Given we’re now coastal have a coastal raft. Our expectations are rescue within 24h or 48h at the most. Abandon ship requirements are different. Ditchbag requirements are different.

People talk about using dinghies instead of rafts. Perhaps that might work in calm protected waters. Think abandon ship occurs mostly with fire or sinking. With fire think anything requiring electricity or hydraulics may not work. With fire ideally want to disembark on the upwind side but be able to get away from the boat as quickly as possibly. With sinking or inversion want to step into the rescue platform as easily as possible. Think it unlikely a dinghy would be dry if the boat got into trouble from down flooding. Have no desire to step into a dinghy flooded to its gunwales. Know how hard it is for some people to get in or out of dinghy when at anchor and there’s a fair chop running. Have long since given up on towing a dinghy in any open waters. Too inefficient, more drag, too much hassle. Just another thing to keep in the back of your mind when anchoring or for any close quarters maneuvering. Same with the Portland Pudgy. Neither fish nor fowl so like motorsailors does neither well.

You hear about rafts not deploying and or deflating. Do your repacks and do them where you can observe them being inflated before the repack. Use only certified shops. Personally like liferaft and survival equipment as a shop in RI. Be compulsive about this stuff. We inflate our personal floatation devices and leave them inflated for 18h as the manufacturers recommend to be done annually. We test our electronics and replace batteries on the recommended schedule. If you blow the money on this stuff it’s worthwhile to make sure it works.
 
Looking for recommendations for something I never hope I have to use - but if I do, I want the best one out there: ditch bags? What do you have or what do you recommend?

Hope everyone is enjoying summer boating!
Spirulina powder. It is the only single food a human can live on for years without getting sick. I carry four pounds in my ditch bag.
 
Have a look at :The Grab Bag Book: Your Ultimate Guide to Liferaft Survival" Frances and Michael Howorth.

Remember also that getting stuck in a life raft for weeks and months today is unlikely with EPIRBS, PLBs, sat phones and the like unless you are planning a trip to the Southern Ocean.

The authors of that book also do several other on survival.
 
I wrote the following for the Cruising Club of America's new Viking Route Guide:


"The Abandon Ship Bag (ASB)
Your ASB is a vital piece of gear. There is a tension, however, between completeness and utility. A large bag, replete with all gear necessary for all situations, is likely to be cumbersome, heavy, and difficult to maneuver onto a life raft from a small yacht. A smaller bag will lighter and more easily handled, but will have less equipment.

One must then focus on ASB contents felt to be most critical for your likely circumstances. For instance, modern communications and emergency signaling capabilities suggest earlier rescue possibilities requiring less time in the raft - it is quite likely that a rescue can happen in 24 to 48 hours after an emergency signal. Abandon Ship gear might focus on getting crew safely into the life raft, communication capabilities, and early survival needs, with less attention to long-term survival equipment in the style of Steve Callahan, who spent 76 days in a raft in 1981.

Your life raft should have an insulated floor. You should target the contents of your ASB to your sailing route, your rescue plan, and to the needs of you and your crew. The fashion in which your bag is put together is almost certainly different for every boat.

List of potential ASB contents to select from:


  • Outside the bag, a tether for the bag
  • Folding knife on lanyard hung outside of the bag

Communication with rescuers:

  • VHF radio with MMSI number programmed.
  • GPS
  • IridiumGo (ideally matched with a dedicated smartphone or tablet appropriately protected in an Aquapack with power pack) or other SatPhone.
  • Many additional AA batteries for VHF, GPS, rechargers, and flashlights.
  • Spare USB battery chargers with battery and solar charge kit.
  • A second EPIRB (in addition to the one which may not make it from the boat).
  • LED Signal Locator Beacon that flashes SOS.
  • Pyrotechnics – SOLAS parachute flares, handheld flares, and smoke canisters. (Note that while these have expiration dates, the CCA’s Safety at Sea Hands On Training courses regularly use flares up to twenty years old and have had fewer than half of one percent misfires and those were not dangerous.)
  • One dozen glow sticks – twelve hour duration to tie on a lanyard and swing
  • Emergency radar reflector
  • Strobe light
  • Mirror
  • Rescue streamer – floating 40 ft /12 m red streamer
  • Binoculars
  • Whistle

Maintenance and protection of the raft and equipment:

  • Manual inflation pump
  • Spare plugs for pressure relief valves and topping up valves and spare sea anchor.
  • Multitool
  • Fifty feet of parachute cord and fifty wire ties
  • Zip lock bags

Personal

  • Eyeglasses for all who need them
  • Vital medicines for everyone – insulin, blood pressure pills, etc.
  • Water or watermaker
  • Food is less critical (“3 weeks without food, 3 days without water”)
  • First aid book (Peter Eastman – Advanced First Aid Afloat).
  • Seasick tablets, Chapstick, sunscreen
  • Toilet paper and wipes in Ziplock bag
  • Trash bags
  • Gloves to protect hands from flares
  • Photocopies of drivers’ licenses, passports, and a credit card in waterproof bag or laminated.
  • Weather-rite emergency poncho
  • Thermal foil blankets
  • Thermal protective aid-sleeping bag with hood
  • Fishing kit
  • One or more cell phones or tablets for passing the time
  • Two LED flashlights taking AA batteries.
  • Laminated list of ASB contents

The following are usually in the life raft package, but, if not, must be in the ASB.

  • First aid kit
  • Signal Mirror
  • Bailer and sponges
  • Life raft patch kit and patch clamps.

Note: Everything electrical - VHF, GPS, strobe light, phones, tablets, and flashlights
must take AA batteries or be rechargeable in the life raft. The EPIRB is an exception to
this. Batteries and all electronics should be changed and/or inspected on a regular schedule such as when re-certifying your raft."


Jim
 
In the 30 years since EPIRBS appeared - what you need in a ditch bag has changed. Unless you are crossing the Pacific, help will arrive in any location within 100 miles of the coast within 2-8 hours. There's no need for food or fish hooks or a even water. Focus on surviving 8 hours not a week.

What you do need is:

1) An extra PLB or EPIRB. Be sure the database has accurate contact information and that whoever you listed as contacts knows that you are out cruising if the Coast Guard calls. 95% of EPRIB activations are false alarms. Before launching a helicopter the CG wants to be pretty sure it's real. I also update the database each cruise with a description of the boat. Names and ages on board. Planned cruising itinerary. Description of life raft, etc.

An AIS MOB. This will alert any boat withing about 10 miles that has AIS. I once saw one go off in Maine (false alarm). Within two minutes the CG had come up on Ch16 looking for more info and five fast boats were heading for the scene - harbor masters, BoatUS, etc. Only the CG knows when an EPIRB goes off.

Flashlights and handheld VHF radio (with extra batteries). If a helicopter arrives you need a way to talk to them about the rescue. Shine the flashlight on the life raft not the helicopter.

A little expensive but consider getting orange survival "Gumby" suits if you are in a cold water area. All commercial fishermen carry them. They will also keep you warm in the liferaft. Liferafts don't always inflate correctly, they blow away, are upside down, or crew don't always make it from sinking boat to the liferaft. With the gumby suit you can survive until the helicpoter gets there if there's a problem with the liferaft.

And consider carrying a Garmin InReach on the boat besides an EPIRB because it allows two way emergency communications. I have a lanyard to put around my neck before heading for the liferaft. The InReach is much better than an EPIRB because you can tell the CG what the problem is (medical emergency, engine failure, overdue). It also allows the CG to confirm that it's not a false alarm because you can text back and forth to them. Rescue will start much quicker and the right assets will be sent. In a less serious situation you can also inform SAR that you are in a difficult situation but are NOT yet declaring a Mayday (A Mayday usually ends in you having to abandon your boat). The InReach emergency center will setup an hourly contact and tell the CG you are out there so they can pre-plan a rescue. If you miss a call or activate the EPIRB, the helicpoter lifts off within minutes. Finally, an InReach lets family check that you are OK rather than calling the CG if you are overdue - potentially causing a dangerous and expessive search that wasn't needed.
 
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Dry Bags are pretty bomb proof. Carabiner ready to clip to dinghy.

Labelled to the boat.

We have two, pictured kept in dedicated cabinet beside main egress.

Identification, money, basic first aid, radio, sunblock, hats, poncho, space blankets, granola bars and jerky, knife, whistle, air horn, flashlight, strobe, flare kit and pistol.

SD card with all personal information.
Survival/exposure suits in own bags.

We keep a gallon of water , cycled daily, ready to go.
Radio is in charger beside door.
InReach ready to add as well
 

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I question
Binoculars
And
Phone or tablet, to pass the time.
Big solar panel too?
Only turn on any device to contact nearby passing vessel or periodically call MayDay.
This is a life raft, not a game.
N
NO HANDHELD FLARES. If you have ever used a flare you will know why. Good way to burn up the raft. I won't even have them aboard the mother ship.
 
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