Transom steps

[Drumhead]

I am looking for recommendations on replacing the two transom steps on my Mainship. The boat is a DC40 and it has two separate steps on the transom to access the rear swim deck. They are built from teak and I'm sure when they were new they were beautiful, now, not so much.
I am open to any suggestions for an alternate solution. Thank you in advance.

 

[DennisB1]

If the steps are still structurally sound then I would strip and refinish. Teak typically turns black on thin film on the surface. I have teak steps on my boat that still work great and look good with a number of refinishing over 33 years of out side storage. A light sanding, oxalic acid bleaching if necessary do wonders on appearance. Rebuilding with teak would be my second option.

 

[C lectric]

Refinishing would be the way I went also. I do not have teak steps to my S.G. grid but I sure have enough other teak trim. A light wet sanding to get rid of any discolouring, again the oxalic acid to lighten the wood and bring back the colour, a 40% thinned varnish as a first coat and then 5 or 6 coats of 10% thinned varnish and it will be beautifull again.

Up to the last summer I have been doing my teak that way for the last 35 yrs.
Give it a try before you write the teak off.

If you really want to be rid of the teak steps then look at S.S. steps. However these may have to be custom made. Look around for sailing gear fabricators as they have the skills to do a good job. It will not be cheap though.

 

[Endeavor GB 32]

Respectfully, varnished steps are beautiful but extremely dangerous when wet. Teak was used because of its natural non-skid properties. Clean per Dennis' instructions in post #2, leave natural or use Semco teak sealer. Safety first! Good luck.
Regards,
Scott

 

[STB]

Respectfully, varnished steps are beautiful but extremely dangerous when wet. Teak was used because of its natural non-skid properties. Clean per Dennis' instructions in post #2, leave natural or use Semco teak sealer. Safety first! Good luck.
Regards,
Scott

For whatever it is worth, I am a huge fan of Semco. I use Goldtone. It needs to be recorded seasonally (every 3 months or so), but is really fast to apply and dries fast. I do my rear and side decks in about an hour, starting at the helm door. By the time I am done, the area by the door is locked dried enough for me to walk super gently over it and in.

 

[jleonard]

Respectfully, varnished steps are beautiful but extremely dangerous when wet. Teak was used because of its natural non-skid properties. Clean per Dennis' instructions in post #2, leave natural or use Semco teak sealer. Safety first! Good luck.
Regards,
Scott

IF the steps have a couple of grooves in them, you can fill those grooves with TDS 440, and leave them a little "proud".
I did that on my Albin and the steps were not slippery.

 

[SIBERNUT]

Teak

I know about oxalic, what are you guys using to neutralize it ?

 

[Pete Meisinger]

Strip and paint with non slip deck paint.

pete

 

[grandbanksbayfield]

Leave top Unfinished.

Respectfully, varnished steps are beautiful but extremely dangerous when wet. Teak was used because of its natural non-skid properties. Clean per Dennis' instructions in post #2, leave natural or use Semco teak sealer. Safety first! Good luck.
Regards,
Scott

I agree about dangerous when wet. We have sanded down and refinished all our exterior steps on our GB32. I used Sikkens Natural Teak and it looks good and is essy to touch up. We left the treads unfinished and have never come close to slipping on them -- wet or dry.