Unequal oil pressure readings

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Water Colors

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Sep 24, 2023
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Twin Cummins 6bta 330hp. At 1000rpm starboard oil pressure is reported by analog gauge 65 lbs, port reported at 30+/-. Same report at both helm stations.
Is the problem a bad sending unit on port engine, bad gauges, or bad oil pump.
How do you diagnose the origin of problem? Thanks folks.
 
To start I would switch the wires to the gauges and see if the problem follows a gauge or stays with an engine. If it stays with an engine then swap senders. Basically just try to eliminate possible problems. It could be a wiring issue. You can easily run a wire from the sender to the gauge over the deck temporarily to see if the problem is fixed, if it is then you may have to look for a loose or corroded connection. Then replace the problem wire if you can’t fix it.
 
One gauge reading double is often a single station sender where a dual station sender should be used. Reading half can be the opposite problem. You can Google the numbers on the senders to see if they are the same resistence ranges.

I always like to start with the ground truth, not part swapping. I'd start checking with one of these, or similar:

Oil Pressure Tester Tool, Oil Pressure Gauge kit, 0-140 PSI PressureTestDiagnostic Tools, Engine Oil Pressure Tester Tool kit, for car Truck
https://a.co/d/55ONnjE

https://www.harborfreight.com/engine-oil-pressure-test-kit-62621.html

Once you know which, if either? Is correct, you can then compare the resistence range of the two senders....once shutdown and once running to see if they perform the same and within spec for the sender's curve. If one (or botj) is bad, replace it. Test with the wire disconnected.

If they test good....check wiring and gauges. Gauges can be checked with a 12v source and a resistor. Gauge should read according to the spec for that resistence. If the gauge is good...time for wiring starting with exposed connections, etc.

Happy hunting!
 
If both helms read the same. it issue is at the source.
Check for corrosion in the system/ connections at the sender. . Verry common, bad connections or bad or failing sender.
 
I wouldn't necessarily assume which one is correct. At 1000 RPM, neither reading strikes me as a problem. But it's likely that one of them is reading incorrectly rather than having that big a difference between the engines.
 
I wouldn't necessarily assume which one is correct. At 1000 RPM, neither reading strikes me as a problem. But it's likely that one of them is reading incorrectly rather than having that big a difference between the engines.

There's a noticable difference in cold (not running) oil pressure between my two engines. It is just a difference in the oil pressure relief valves' pressure setting. I'm guessing they are different due to them having been rebuilt at different times by different people with different springs weights.

These things do happen, even in good engines. Mine are low hours, relatively recently rebuilt.
 
The variables between two engines is considerable and will never be the exact same for two engines..>>>Dan
 
Check the wire as Commodave mentioned.

Any extra resistance in the wiring, + & - leads will materially affect the readings as those guages and senders are resistance devices.
 
To start I would switch the wires to the gauges and see if the problem follows a gauge or stays with an engine. If it stays with an engine then swap senders. Basically just try to eliminate possible problems. It could be a wiring issue. You can easily run a wire from the sender to the gauge over the deck temporarily to see if the problem is fixed, if it is then you may have to look for a loose or corroded connection. Then replace the problem wire if you can’t fix it.


I'm with Comodave. Why spend money and effort on diagnostic tools when the easiest thing to do is swap wires and then senders to see which sender or gauge is a problem?


Of course it is possible that the oil pressures are in fact that different, but it's much less likely than an instrumentation problem.


Jim
 
To start I would switch the wires to the gauges and see if the problem follows a gauge or stays with an engine. If it stays with an engine then swap senders. Basically just try to eliminate possible problems. It could be a wiring issue. You can easily run a wire from the sender to the gauge over the deck temporarily to see if the problem is fixed, if it is then you may have to look for a loose or corroded connection. Then replace the problem wire if you can’t fix it.

That's what I did trying to diagnose why both tachs for my port engine were dead. Turns out the drive pin in the mechanical sender was broken but this test ruled out the wiring. Next step was to remove the sender where I found the broken pin.
 
I'm with Comodave. Why spend money and effort on diagnostic tools when the easiest thing to do is swap wires and then senders to see which sender or gauge is a problem?


Of course it is possible that the oil pressures are in fact that different, but it's much less likely than an instrumentation problem.


Jim

In the expected case, checking the pil pressure with a mechanical gauge takes less effort that swapping senders -- it saves all of the time to disassemble and reassmble the likely good sender side.

In the unlikely case of confounding problems, it provides reliable ground truth.

$25 with free 2-day "to your door".delivery isn't much money or effort.

And the tool, used only occasionally, will likely last a lifetime. In the future there will be no extra effort or cost. It'll be free and on hand.

Even my most rarely used tools -- things like my cooling system.pressure test kit, exhaust gas detection fluid, phototach, SWR Meter, and thermal sensor have gotten loaned up and down the dock and used on a bunch of different boats, by the owner or myself

The only tools I have ever regretted buying were those that never worked, or broke or wore out early.

I just don't see the $25 as a measurable cost. The storage space is the cost ai feel at my end.

Most importantly, as someone who is super big on preventative maintenance, over time, I've introduced a ton of "maintenance induced failure" on my boat. I'll risk breaking something that is working just fine for scheduled maintenance -- but not for something unrelated. Nothing worse than starting with one problem and creating a second, maybe worse problem.

It might be different if the tool were hundreds of dollars or many days or longer away, etc.

...just my thinking.

My two cents.
 
Ground

Check for thread sealant on the low engine sender. If so, jumper the case to the block & see if any diff.
 

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