Need recommendation for engine replacement near Anacortes, WA.

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Goody

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2024
Messages
46
Vessel Name
Sandee
Vessel Make
Tollycraft 34 Sport Sedan
After an extended period of time in the yard getting some necessary repairs made to Sandee, the time finally arrived to get back in the water and make a journey. The journey was short lived because the starboard engine (7.4L Mercruiser) grenaded. I suspect it dropped a valve taking out the entire engine, found the tulip part of the valve in the bilge amongst some large pieces of a former piston. A repower of the boat to Diesel just isn't in my budget so replacing the gas engine(s) is the most economical course of action. Does anybody have a recommendation?
I haven't yet started to disassemble the engine but will be in the next few days (at least in a reasonable fashion to match my abilities). The long block will have to remain in place. I don't see me being able to swap a BBC in the slip at a marina, even if that kind of work was allowed (I'm very doubtful it is) so will only be doing some limited work in the slip. I can turn a wrench so some of the work will and some will not be over my head.
Has anybody had an engine replaced recently near this location. Some places I have called only work on diesel's so the options are getting narrowed down already.
 
Give Todd Olafson at Pacific Marine Center in Anacortes a call.
(360) 299-8820
 
Give Todd Olafson at Pacific Marine Center in Anacortes a call.

from past experience, I WOULD NOT
 
Can you get the engine onto the deck where it can be picked by a crane with no overhead? If so, pulling it while in the water by towing it to a yard with a crane or potentially using a travel lift with a crane attachment.
 
I agree with twistedtree...If you have piston parts and valves in the bilge, your block is shot. Only disassemble what you need to get the engine out of the boat. no fixing that block.
 
Fortunately replacement 454s are pretty readily available. So as long as you can figure out what it will take to get the engine in and out, a replacement long block (with your accessories swapped over if they're still usable) should get you up and running again.
 
I agree with you all about needing a new long block. I reread my post and now see what I meant to convey didn't come across clearly enough. I did not mean to infer the block would stay in place for continued use (it is now anchor material) in my mind.
I just do not think I can get the block out of the boat after I take it down to even the short block while the boat is in the water. That is one big heavy hunk of metal down there.
Sure I can keep things clean along the way so as not to become a floating environmental hazard but removing that thing from a sedan style boat is going to be real problematic. I really think it would be safest to remove it after going back to a yard AGAIN!!!. Argh to that, but I just don't see any alternative. I have only reached out for one quote thus far and it came in about where I expected.
And I suspect attempting that type of work while the boat is in the water would not be acceptable to the marina. Think I should review my slip agreement to see what it states about 'work' on the boat before I break out any large tools. Thank you to all for the sharing of your knowledge thus far.
 
If space allows, it's probably possible to pull the manifolds, heads, etc. and carry all of those pieces out. The block and internals should be in the ballpark of 500 - 600 lbs I think (a fully dressed marine 454 is around 1000 with accessories, exhaust manifolds, etc.), so if there's space to build a frame to lift it up out of the space, you can likely find a way to get it off the boat (possibly figure out a way for 3 or 4 strong guys to carry it out).
 
Been making progress on the tear down of the engine in the boat. The #2 piston is completely gone, it got shattered and pounded during the failure. The connecting rod is noticeably bent although the wrist pin is still attached. The head (was a reman unit) but is toast as well. Actually, have it all the way down to the short block at this point, although it is still attached to the transmission. Still need to siphon out some coolant from the block and oil before going any further. Remote oil filter mount/hoses need removed and a couple oil sensors as well before any attempts at movement.
I tagged all electrical connections along the way for reference later on should I attempt to install a new short block back in the boat.
 
Gregg's Diesel in Anacortes can do it. They have a good Mechanic (Kirk I think is his name) just watch the billing from them, they overcharged me a few times. even with that I would go back.
 
Doug Russell Marine may be worth checking out for a reman or new 454.
 
Goody said:
Been making progress on the tear down of the engine in the boat. The #2 piston is completely gone, it got shattered and pounded during the failure. The connecting rod is noticeably bent although the wrist pin is still attached. The head (was a reman unit) but is toast as well. Actually, have it all the way down to the short block at this point, although it is still attached to the transmission. Still need to siphon out some coolant from the block and oil before going any further. Remote oil filter mount/hoses need removed and a couple oil sensors as well before any attempts at movement.
I tagged all electrical connections along the way for reference later on should I attempt to install a new short block back in the boat.
Click to expand...
That’s great progress. Initially you thought you found piston parts in the bilge? Have you found a hole in the block where it escaped? I’m just wondering if the block is confirmed to be toast.
 
I don’t see how the cylinder could escape scoring. I would be uncomfortable with anything less than a short block swap. OP seems very capable otherwise I would be saying Long block swap.
 
Thus far the escape hole for the piston/valve parts has been confirmed to be the cast aluminum oil pan with the break occurring at the mating surface of the block and pan with the hole thus far appearing to be just the pan. Since I had to syphon coolant out of both sides of the block I guess the block might still be intact to some extent. Won't know for sure until it is out of the boat.
There wasn't a discernable ring ridge in any cylinder (findernail test only). Have yet to notice any markings on the pistons to indicate an overbore either. Suspect the hr meter to be accurate showing just under 1800hrs TSN. However, agree that the #2 cylinder bore is likely to be unrepairable. Sleeving a BBC isn't exactly financially a good thing to do even if possible. It isn't like this is a matching engine in an expensive collector vehicle. A reman block and new oil pan is the only solution if I decide not to repower to another solution.
 
Finished up disconnecting the remote oil lines and oil pressure sensors. Then sucked the oil from the pan (engine has a oil change pump plumbed in) and used a hand held pump to remove what coolant I could from the block. No coolant made it into the oil pan. There are some real deep dings in the #2 cylinder walls that would not clean up even at .060 over so it will not be saved. The engine can be rotated 360 degree by hand. I was able to remove the flywheel bolts via the hole in the bellhousing where the starter mounts. Except for the actual engine mounts the short block is ready to be removed from the boat.
I'm hoping all this prework I have done getting the bad engine torn down to the short block will save at least some yard money.
 
I’m sure it will save you $$. A yard would charge $150 to $200/ hr for the work you did, and probably break a few things along the way. So I’m sure you are ahead of the game.
 
Being in Anacortes, I would contract the yard for storage only and a lift of old engine out and new engine in. It appears that you are capable of handling everything else.
 
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