engine oil change - Ford Lehman 135sp

The friendliest place on the web for anyone who enjoys boating.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
See posts with no answers
P

paulga

Guru
Joined
May 28, 2018
Messages
1,409
Location
United States
Vessel Name
DD
Vessel Make
Marine Trader Sundeck 40'
The engine has a fuel hose connected to a fitting at the bottom of the engine. The hose has a quarter turn valve at the other end. The westerbeke genny also has such a hose out.

to change the engine oil, should i connect this hose into a transfer pump (e.g. Milwaukee 2771-20 M18) and pump out to an oil drain pan? Then switch the pump IN and OUT, and pump the fresh oil into the engine?


Image_20240804225255.jpg
 
Definitely pump it out....sure....pump it in if you want, but I just poured it in the valve cover opening. Let it wash clean oil down through the engine was my feeble brained reason.
 
psneeld said:
Definitely pump it out....sure....pump it in if you want, but I just poured it in the valve cover opening. Let it wash clean oil down through the engine was my feeble brained reason.
Click to expand...

is this the valve cover opening to add oil?

59_8917405_20230621135800075_1_XLARGE.jpg
 
psneeld said:
Yes
Click to expand...
here is the steps that I understood so far, please comment if I missed anything

1. run the engine 45 minutes
2. loosen valve cover opening
3. pump oil out -- will there be some quarts of oil that cannot be pumped out due to the engine being slant?
4. remove and drain the oil filter
5. install new filter -- should it be primed with 1 qt oil?
6. put 13.5 qt oil in (including oil put in last step)
7. run the engine for 5 minutes, let it settle
8. add 1 qt oil
 
Only thing I would suggest is after step 7, check the oil on the dip stick - you might need more (or less) oil
 
Brisyboy said:
Only thing I would suggest is after step 7, check the oil on the dip stick - you might need more (or less) oil
Click to expand...
Thanks.

is it possible to prime the oil filter before installing it?
this is what i always did when I did oil change on my car. but the oil filter on the FL135 is bottom side up, so I don't know if this is still doable
 
No need to run the engine 45 minutes, you can just take the boat for a spin and get it up to operating temperature. Then change when the engine room cools down or just change it cold. Not the best to idle the engine a long time with no load so avoid letting it idle at the dock for 45 minutes.

Tidy looking engine and engine room.
 
I change cold, don't want to burn myself - :)

I also pump it out and pump it in. Eight gallons is no fun to pour and an "oops" would be really messy.
 
Unless very cold temperatures, no reason to run the engine before oil change. It is much easier when the engine is cool to warm. No need to pre fill oil filter either - just makes a mess. I just pump out & in also, allows you to buy oil in larger pails (my latest purchase of Rotella T4 came packaged like boxed wine) but cheaper.
As others have said pay careful attention to the dipstick in preference to the manual’s stated capacity. Overfilling is as bad or worse than underfilling.
 
Flatswing said:
Unless very cold temperatures, no reason to run the engine before oil change. It is much easier when the engine is cool to warm. No need to pre fill oil filter either - just makes a mess. I just pump out & in also, allows you to buy oil in larger pails (my latest purchase of Rotella T4 came packaged like boxed wine) but cheaper.
As others have said pay careful attention to the dipstick in preference to the manual’s stated capacity. Overfilling is as bad or worse than underfilling.
Click to expand...
So no need to run the engine before changing the oil in summer

Do you pump the new oil into the valve cover opening, or via the same fuel hose in the photo in post #1?
 
I have a permanent reverse pump and manifold to all 3 engines, so I pump back in to the oil pan
 
Flatswing said:
I have a permanent reverse pump and manifold to all 3 engines, so I pump back in to the oil pan
Click to expand...
This setup really streamlines the process
I'm going to use a Milwaukee M18 pump. Is it acceptable to use the same garden hose for both pumping out the dirty oil and pumping in the clean oil? Or does it have to be a rubber hose rated for fuel?

51tD51hByML._AC_SL1500_.jpg
 
paulga said:
here is the steps that I understood so far, please comment if I missed anything

1. run the engine 45 minutes
2. loosen valve cover opening
3. pump oil out -- will there be some quarts of oil that cannot be pumped out due to the engine being slant?
4. remove and drain the oil filter
5. install new filter -- should it be primed with 1 qt oil?
6. put 13.5 qt oil in (including oil put in last step)
7. run the engine for 5 minutes, let it settle
8. add 1 qt oil
Click to expand...

Between steps 2 and 3 I puncture the oil filter so that most of the oil in the filter can drain before removal.
 
Running the engine before does 2 things. Mixes up any debris that has settled - which will happen. Raises the temperature to make the draining easier with "thinner" viscosity oil.
I add about 1/2 quart of Marvel Mystery Oil oil into the oil fill prior to running. Aids in thinning and dissolves baked on internal stains. (bad stuff). Dont forget to change the oil in the injector pump as well.
 
TJM said:
Running the engine before does 2 things. Mixes up any debris that has settled - which will happen. Raises the temperature to make the draining easier with "thinner" viscosity oil.
I add about 1/2 quart of Marvel Mystery Oil oil into the oil fill prior to running. Aids in thinning and dissolves baked on internal stains. (bad stuff). Dont forget to change the oil in the injector pump as well.
Click to expand...
do you idle the engine for 15 minutes? I recall the engine temp gauge had hardly moved at 15 minutes.
 
You do not need to change the injector pump oil on a 135, it has flow-through lubrication from the main oil system.
 
paulga said:
do you idle the engine for 15 minutes? I recall the engine temp gauge had hardly moved at 15 minutes.
Click to expand...
Idling the engine probably won’t heat the engine up. It needs a load to get hot.
 
If the recommendation to always bring your engine up to operating temperature so you evaporate moisture and minimize combustion products.... why is it important when you are changing your oil?

While 15 minutes will not get to operating temp unless you get underway, it may be good enough to warm the oil to get it to flow nicely and mix it up if doing oil sampling.

If the oil doesn't even get warm, next time do it a bit longer.

Mechanics sometimes start and stop the engine all day long for varying lengths of time while trouble shooting, unless that happens all the time, not sure the 15 minute warm up followed by an oil change is going to be any trouble.
 
psneeld said:
If the recommendation to always bring your engine up to operating temperature so you evaporate moisture and minimize combustion products.... why is it important when you are changing your oil?

While 15 minutes will not get to operating temp unless you get underway, it may be good enough to warm the oil to get it to flow nicely and mix it up if doing oil sampling.

If the oil doesn't even get warm, next time do it a bit longer.

Mechanics sometimes start and stop the engine all day long for varying lengths of time while trouble shooting, unless that happens all the time, not sure the 15 minute warm up followed by an oil change is going to be any trouble.
Click to expand...
how long do you wait for the oil to cool down a bit from operating temp?
it should allow the oil to cool down but not become thick again, and before the debris settle
 
The waiting time to change the oil is more to allow the oil in the upper passages to drain into the pan. I never knew the 135 had the injector pump oiled my the mains. That is awesome. I change my oil in the fall or winter after a long season. The engines warm the boat too.
 
TJM said:
The waiting time to change the oil is more to allow the oil in the upper passages to drain into the pan. I never knew the 135 had the injector pump oiled my the mains. That is awesome. I change my oil in the fall or winter after a long season. The engines warm the boat too.
Click to expand...
a sedan car with a 5Qt oil pan takes 5 minutes for oil to return and 20 minutes to cool down
FL135sp sump capacity is 14.5Qt. is 30 minutes wait sufficient?
 
30 minutes should be fine. The oil will still be hot so don’t burn yourself.
 
Oil changes aren't as precise a thing as some people make it out to be. As long as the engine has been shut down for at least 5 - 10 minutes you're fine to change it. Warm vs cold doesn't make a big difference with modern detergent oils and oil filters. If there's any meaningful junk settled in the pan after it's been sitting, then there's a problem.

Personally, I try to change while warm just because oil drains faster that way. But I've done plenty of cold changes on equipment for various reasons and for at least some equipment I won't necessarily go out of my way to warm it up just for a change, although I will run it after to confirm no leaks at the filter, etc.
 
TJM said:
Running the engine before does 2 things. Mixes up any debris that has settled - which will happen. Raises the temperature to make the draining easier with "thinner" viscosity oil.
I add about 1/2 quart of Marvel Mystery Oil oil into the oil fill prior to running. Aids in thinning and dissolves baked on internal stains. (bad stuff). Dont forget to change the oil in the injector pump as well.
Click to expand...
Do you also add some Marvel Mystery oil to the new engine oil?
 
I found 4 bottles of oil stored in a container that holds "engine related" stuff
are these supposed to be used at each oil change for engine's up keeping?


IMG20240808224440.jpg
 
Does the photo depict the "4 bottles of oil" referred to? If so, they are not oils. I suggest you read the labels, each seems to have a specific purpose.
 
Well, starting from the left:
Starting Fluid - sprayed into the engine air intake when your poor old Lehman doesn`t want to get out of bed to start. Not a usual oil change activity. We have a local product called "start ya bastard"
Brakleen - used to clean things - Perhaps it could be used to clean the sump plug- not much else during oil change time
Engine stor - general engine maint - not a product we need to use in Aust. - perhaps general maint for spraying areas of the engine where the paint has chipped off- ie rust prevention. Ill leave this to those that need to store their boats during winter.
Zoom spout - looks like it`s an "oil can" equivalent

In a box labeled "Engine Related Stuff" is pretty appropriate and not directly related to an oil change
cheers
 
And of course you can always do what Bruce suggested as a last resort because we all know that real men, and sailors, don`t need to read instructions:)

Sorry, that should read ....real persons and sailpersons............
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

A
38E QSB 6.7 oil drain hose?
Replies
5
Views
457
amxr39
A
J. Landin
My first Journey.
Replies
13
Views
2K
J. Landin
J. Landin
B
Fuel issues on 120 Ford Lehman
Replies
7
Views
336
Comodave
Comodave
C
Single wt oil in Northern Lights Generator?
Replies
6
Views
670
Comodave
Comodave
F
oil pan replacement concerns
Replies
19
Views
2K
Steve DAntonio
Steve DAntonio

Latest posts

Back
Top Bottom